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FAST, SIMPLE and CORRECTLY rooting cuttings of indoor plants
Most indoor plants can be propagated vegetatively - by cuttings, layering, children or dividing an adult plant. At first glance, everything is simple: cut off a cutting, stick it in the ground and wait for it to take root. In fact, such a trick is not always possible and not for everyone. This matter requires experience and skill.

For some people, everything they plant grows and prospers; in England they are called “green hands.” Most of us sometimes manage to root a cutting and grow a plant from it, but more often the planting material rots or dries out. What do you need to know about rooting cuttings in order to propagate your favorite indoor flowers without any problems?

WHAT SHOULD BE DONE

Before you begin harvesting cuttings and rooting them, it is important to decide on the following issues:

• Find out what kind of houseplant it is, whether it can be propagated by cuttings and read tips on how to do this specifically for this species;
• Select and cut the cuttings correctly;
• Prepare dishes for rooting and soil suitable for this plant;
• Treat with a root growth stimulator, if necessary;
• Plant the cuttings and care for them properly.

Some indoor plants take root easily and quickly. There are no problems with the rooting of balsam, zonal pelargonium, tradescantia, and coleus. Large-flowered pelargoniums are more capricious. Ficuses and begonias are almost always successfully propagated by cuttings. Azaleas and gardenias are difficult to root. If you don’t have any experience, then it’s better to practice on the most unpretentious and easily rooted house flowers.

Radish

Some varieties of radishes can be grown in 16 days.

• This plant needs a fertile, loose substrate: 1 part - black soil, 2 parts - compost and 1 part - river sand.
• It is important to disinfect the substrate before use.
• The containers must have holes for moisture drainage, as well as a drainage layer.
• The depth of the container is not less than 15 cm.
• Germinate the seeds on the battery in a damp cloth.
• Then sow into moist soil to a depth of 2 cm. Maintain a distance of 5 cm.
• Spray the soil with a spray bottle and cover with film.
• Remove the film when the first shoots appear. Place the container in a bright room where the temperature will not exceed 100.
• After 3-4 days, you can put them in a room away from the radiators.
• Regularly moisten the soil and air, and ventilate the room.
• Ripening occurs in 20-30 days.

HOW TO CUT CUTTINGS CORRECTLY.

• For rooting, cuttings are taken from a healthy specimen. Indoor plants affected by pests and fungal diseases must first be cured.
• Cuttings are cut with a sharp knife, woody shoots are cut with pruning shears. Thin and tender stems cannot be cut with scissors, although this seems convenient - the cut site is compressed, the tissue is injured and the cutting then quickly rots.
• The cuttings are cut small, they should have 3-4 leaves. The length of the cutting itself can be different for different indoor plants; it depends on the distance between the leaves. In some species, apical cuttings root better; in most, apical and lateral cuttings take root equally.
• The bottom cut should be just below the knot. The stems of many indoor flowers easily break off at the internode; this is the best place for separation. It’s even better if the cutting has a “heel” - the place where this branch grew from the main trunk. When rooting in water, you can see that the roots of some plants (impatiens or zonal pelargonium, for example) appear along the entire length of the cutting, immersed in water. In others they grow only from the bottom cut. There are plants whose roots appear only from the node.
• The lower leaves are immediately removed; upon contact with wet soil or water, they rot, affecting the cutting itself.
• Some plants have a large leaf area, and planted cuttings evaporate a lot of water. The leaf blades are partially cut (by a third or half).
• If there are buds or flowers on the cutting, they must be removed, otherwise the cutting may simply not have enough strength to form roots.
• It is not recommended to immediately place freshly cut cuttings in water or soil. Most houseplants need to sit outdoors for a few hours before planting.

ROOTING IN WATER.

The easiest way to propagate houseplants is to cut a branch, put it in water and wait for the roots to appear. But not all plant species develop roots under such conditions. Many simply rot after a while. Saintpaulia, balsam, zonal pelargonium, tradescantia, ivy, and coleus are usually propagated in water.

What to root in? In any small glass or plastic container. In a glass, for example. It is noteworthy that roots appear faster in dark glass dishes. The cuttings are placed so that the lower part is submerged shallowly. Roots require the presence of oxygen to form; they form at the interface between water and air. The water level in the glass should be such that the ends of the cuttings are in the water, but most of them are above the water level.

What water should I use? Regular, from the tap. Some advise taking only boiled water, it does not contain microbes, but in fact they are introduced there as soon as the cutting is placed in it. It is impossible to disinfect a plant without destroying it. In addition, in the ordinary air of an apartment there are more than enough various microorganisms. Melt water is useful, it does not contain salts and is effective for rooting.

Do I need to change the water in the container with cuttings? No, you should not change the water under the cuttings, but only add it if necessary. They often die after changing the water. Probably, some kind of stable environment is formed in the glass from the waste products of the plant, promoting root growth. Saintpaulia leaves and passionflower cuttings that have already produced roots sometimes die after changing the water. Place an activated carbon tablet in the water to inhibit putrefactive processes.

How many cuttings can be placed in one glass? A little, 1 or 2. The more capricious the plant, the less. In a large mass, cuttings usually all die. As soon as one begins to rot, this process will affect everyone else.

Description

Flowers grown from seeds can decorate any garden plot, adding comfort and harmony to it.
Flower growers create magnificent flower arrangements in flower beds using a variety of colors of ornamental plants. By choosing the right flowers, you can ensure your flower bed blooms throughout the season. You can plant both annual and perennial flowers on the site. You need to choose those plants that do not require much care and tolerate cold and lack of moisture well. The best option for a country house would be perennial flowers. They are good because you don’t need to sow or plant seedlings every year. Perennial flowers bloom earlier than annuals and will delight you with their blooms at the very beginning of the season.

A wide variety of annual plants is suitable for those who like to tinker in their beds. Annual sowing or planting of seedlings allows you to refresh the flowerbed and bring newness to it. Annuals can be planted in different places every year and change the usual landscape of the site.

ROOTING IN THE SOIL

Some plant species do not grow roots in water. They can stand in it for a month and not sprout a single root, while they will appear in the ground within a week. The general rule is this: plants from swamps and tropical rainforests take root easily in water; species from arid areas are best planted in the ground.

Petunias, large-flowered pelargoniums, fuchsias, begonias, hydrangeas, and hibiscus are rooted in the soil.

SOIL FOR ROOTING

What soil should I use to root cuttings? Loose, able to retain moisture well, with neutral acidity. For most crops, a simple mixture is most often used: peat in half with coarse sand. Or other inert soil that is not prone to rotting. You can add perlite and vermiculite and coconut fiber to peat. Sphagnum moss is useful, it has disinfectant properties and retains water well. Too loose soil dries out quickly.

Soil sterility. The soil for rooting cuttings of indoor plants should not contain fungal infections and insect pests. Many flower lovers steam garden soil, fry it or freeze it. The safest thing to do is buy ready-made soil at garden centers and add roasted sand to it. This purchased land is treated with fungicides and insecticides, which reliably protects the plants for some time.

Soil acidity. The acidity of the soil affects rooting. Usually they buy soil with neutral acidity from the store. Most types of indoor plants take root best in it. Hydrangeas need acidic soil; their cuttings root most effectively in slightly acidic soil. The general rule for most plants is this: the acidity of the soil for rooting should be close to that required for an adult plant of this species, but slightly closer to neutral.

ROOTING WHERE

Disposable plastic cups are good for rooting cuttings. If one cutting rots, the rot will not spread to other cuttings. Through the transparent walls you can see the emerging roots. Be sure to make a drainage hole in the bottom of the cup. It is advisable to place a little perlite or pieces of polystyrene at the bottom to allow excess water to drain freely.

The downside of the cups is their small volume. If you missed a glass when watering, the cutting may dry out.

Conventional seedling boxes or special pallets (cassettes, trays) with cells are convenient for rooting a large number of cuttings. In the boxes, moisture is distributed more evenly, the cuttings are arranged more compactly and are easier to care for.

For small cuttings, plastic food containers with a transparent lid are considered the most convenient option. They are quite rigid, the lid is easy to open when ventilated, and it is easy to make drainage holes in them.

When choosing dishes for rooting, follow these rules:

• If the plant does not tolerate transplantation well, take cups;
• If there are a lot of cuttings, their survival rate is low - choose boxes or pallets.

Cuttings of citrus fruits, myrtles, and oleanders are usually planted in boxes. The crowns of these plants need to be molded and pruned, after which many branches remain, quite suitable for cuttings. Not all of them will take root, but some of them will still take root.

HOW TO PLANT A CUTTING

The question seems simple. At first sight. Some plants have roots that grow along the entire length of the stem buried in the soil. The deeper you plant, the more roots there will be. In others, they appear only from a thickening at the cut site, and new shoots will grow from there. This place should not be very deep from the soil surface.

A universal method is to plant cuttings not strictly vertically, but obliquely, at approximately an angle of 45 degrees. Then the lower end of the cutting is not located deeply, and a fairly large part of the shoot is in contact with the soil.

Some plants (scindapsus, syngonium, monstera) have large distances between nodes; the length of the cutting can be 20-30 cm. They are unstable when planted in the ground. Tall plastic glasses or bottles with the top cut off are convenient for them. The soil is poured onto the bottom of the vessel, and the walls serve as support.

Some indoor vines are capable of growing aerial roots; they take root easily when in contact with the ground. Cuttings of Wood's Ceropegia and Philodendron can be rooted if you simply place them on moist soil, pressing them down with pebbles at the nodes, and spray them regularly.

What flowers can be grown from seeds?

A florist who wants to improve his summer cottage and create a beautiful flower bed must know what flowers can be grown from seeds. Sowing flowers for seedlings saves money and ensures uniform germination. Flowers grown at home are resistant to diseases and take root better in a new place.

Annual flowers

Annual plants that do not tolerate transplantation are sown in open ground. At home, flower seedlings are grown from seeds to achieve early flowering.

Popular annuals among gardeners are:

• petunia;
• purslane;
• begonia;
• primrose;
• bell;
• verbena;
• marigold;
• calendula.

These plants bloom profusely and make it possible to create floral arrangements. You can form various geometric shapes in the flowerbed by sowing in open ground or planting seedlings grown at home. Low-growing annuals are planted in multi-tiered flower beds in combination with tall perennials.

Flowers that are planted for one season allow you to fill empty spaces on the site and the space between cultivated shrubs.

Petunia is very popular due to its varied colors and long flowering throughout the season. This flower can be planted in a composition with plants that quickly fade, leaving behind lush green foliage, such as peon bushes, daffodils or tulips.

Calendula can not only decorate a garden plot, but also protect cultivated plants from pests. This flower is often planted in flower beds and near the vegetable garden. The advantage of calendula is its medicinal properties, used in folk medicine.

ROOT FORMATION STIMULANTS

Some gardeners, before planting cuttings, soak them in a solution of heteroauxin or other root formation stimulant. Such substances promote plant regeneration, stimulate root formation in cuttings, accelerate root formation in seedlings and adult plants, and enhance the growth of adventitious roots. There are different medications. The cuttings are either soaked in a solution, or sprinkled with powder, or watered under the root strictly according to the instructions.

These root formation stimulators make it possible to obtain new specimens from cuttings of even the most difficult plants to propagate.

CARE OF CUTTINGS

90% of rooting success depends on proper care of planted cuttings of indoor plants. Caring for cuttings largely depends on the type of plant, but there are rules that are common to all.

MOISTURE CONSERVATION AND WATERING

Do you need film? It is almost always recommended to cover rooting shoots with film or glass to protect them from drying out, leaving a small hole for ventilation. For cuttings planted in cups, just put a small plastic bag on top.

This requirement is not relevant for all plants, but it won’t hurt, especially in the first days. Succulent plants, as a rule, are not covered with anything.

Important! Be sure to ventilate regularly! How often? If it’s cool, it’s enough to open it once a day for half an hour; if it’s hot and there are a lot of water droplets on the film, open it 3 times for 10-15 minutes. From excess condensation, cuttings easily rot. Frequent spraying accelerates rooting, but plants with pubescent leaves or shoots are not recommended to be sprayed.

When the first roots appear, the film can be removed. Spraying continues.

Should I trim the leaves? Cuttings of plants with large leaves evaporate a lot of moisture, and the soil dries out quickly. It is useful to cut the leaf blades of cuttings by half or 2/3. This is done with cuttings of lemons, indoor roses, hibiscus, and gardenias. Fleshy thick leaves are not shortened. They already hold moisture well, but when damaged they begin to rot.

How to water? Cuttings covered with film are watered infrequently; make sure that the soil is slightly moist. It is better to water with soft, settled water at room temperature or a few degrees warmer. When roots appear, the plant begins to absorb more moisture from the soil and evaporate more of it, watering is increased, and the cover is removed.

TEMPERATURE REGIME

Temperature is the most important factor for most plants. Chopped shoots actively develop in warm conditions. The optimal temperature is 22-28°C. Moreover, not only the air should be warm, but also the soil. In winter, even the most unpretentious plants cannot take root on cold windowsills.

Plants of the tropics require higher temperatures; many representatives of subtropics and temperate climates form roots at 20 degrees. Very heat-loving exotic species take root only with bottom heating! To do this, you can place the container with cuttings on a warm windowsill above the radiator or buy a special heated box for seedlings.

When it's very hot, that's also bad! At temperatures above 30 degrees, most cuttings die.

As soon as you notice the appearance of roots (transparent containers are very convenient in this regard) or the beginning of the growth of a new leaf, it is advisable to lower the temperature to normal room temperature.

Most websites dedicated to houseplants advise rooting cuttings in spring or late summer. These tips are correct for most species. And often the point here is not that the roots do not grow at other times. They are growing! But during these periods it is easiest to ensure the required temperature and light conditions without any special tricks.

LIGHTING

Sunlight stimulates growth. It would be a mistake to place the cuttings in the shade, where the sun practically does not penetrate. There should be a lot of light, but it should be diffused. In the summer heat, it is better not to keep them in the midday sun to prevent overheating. But the morning and pre-sunset rays will be beneficial, especially for cuttings of sun-loving species (hibiscus, gloxinia, pelargonium).

Some types of plants are rooted by cuttings without leaves (grapes, barberries); they can also be kept in a shaded place. The reason for this is that if the cutting was harvested in the fall, at a time when the plant no longer had leaves, then it contains a certain amount of heteroauxin, which stimulates the formation of roots.

Peas

Peas will delight you with their ripe pods in about 1.5-2 months.

• Before sowing, wrap the seeds in damp toilet paper and wrap them in cling film. Leave in a warm place (on the radiator) for one day.
• Then you need to sow them to a depth of about 5 cm, from 80 to 130 pieces per 1 sq.m.
• When the first sprouts appear, move the container to the windowsill, protecting the sprouts from direct sunlight.
• Water when the soil begins to dry out.

TRANSPLANTING YOUNG PLANTS

The resulting seedlings need to be transplanted into separate pots. For many plants, this stage is considered the most difficult. Many species do not tolerate root damage. Others don't like changes in temperature or soil.

How to replant? The rule is simple - replant rooted cuttings only by handling, without shaking off the soil, trying not to damage the weak roots.

When to replant? The shoots rooted in the cups are replanted when it is clear that the roots have entwined the earth well. If the walls are not transparent, then replant if roots appear in the drainage hole. Cuttings in a common box are more difficult to separate from each other; they are usually replanted when they begin to grow and produce a new leaf. Being late in replanting from a separate cell or cup will not do much harm; it will only slow down the development of the plant a little, while in a box the roots may become so intertwined that it will be difficult to separate them.

How to adapt? A sudden change in conditions can destroy the plants obtained with such difficulty. If the seedling is moved to another place or into the open air, then before transplanting it must be accustomed to the new habitat. The shelter is removed from it, moved to another place, first for several hours, then the time is increased. Plants must get used to lower temperatures and different lighting.

Hardening of seedlings

Seedlings need to be hardened off, gradually accustoming them to open air and sun. As soon as it gets warmer outside, place the seedlings on the balcony. First, leave it in the fresh air for one to two hours. Increase the hardening time daily. Before planting in the ground, seedlings should remain in the fresh air all daylight hours.

Winter will soon end and the growing of seedlings will begin. True gardeners always look forward to this time. Share in the comments what seeds of crops you have already bought for the new summer season? What did you sow first? Take a few minutes for a short master class on growing vegetable and flower seedlings from specialist Becker and have a nice season!

UNUSUAL METHODS OF CUTTINGS

There are quite exotic, but effective, rooting methods. Often they allow you to root even plants that are difficult to take cuttings.

For example, in potatoes. To do this, the tuber is thoroughly washed, all its eyes are removed, and the desired cutting is inserted into the hole made. Then the tuber is buried in the ground, and the cutting is covered with a glass jar or film and watered regularly. At the same time, the cuttings are supplied with a large amount of nutrients and actively produce roots, and the plants subsequently grow and develop well. Even capricious roses can be rooted this way!

Or, another way: a twig is stuck into a piece of a special floral sponge to extend the life of cut flowers. It retains moisture for a long time and is treated with special antibacterial substances. For example, this sponge is good for rooting fuchsia.

The burrito method has worked well for roses. In this way, you can root cuttings no less thick than a pencil. Take cuttings with 3-4 buds and remove all leaves. They are treated with a root growth stimulator and several pieces are wrapped in wet newspaper. The cuttings packed in paper are placed in a dark plastic bag and left for 3 weeks at a temperature of 14-18 degrees. A basement works well. After the specified time, they are taken out and the newspapers are carefully removed. If roots appear on the branches, they are planted one at a time in pots so that the top bud rises above the surface. The pot is covered with film to reduce evaporation. The temperature should now be above 23-25 ​​degrees.

Leaf salad

There are many types of lettuce, and among them there are those that are suitable for growing on a windowsill. The earliest ripening species are leafy ones. They contain a lot of vitamins and are not fussy to grow.

• Lettuce seeds should be sown in a container filled with a mixture of turf soil, humus and sand. The ratio of parts is 2:2:1, respectively.
• You need to sow to a depth of at least 1 cm, in rows, keeping a distance between them of approximately 1.5 cm.
• Pour water, cover with plastic and leave in a dark place.
• After the first shoots appear, the container should be moved to the windowsill.
• Grow at a temperature of at least 180C.
• Water every 1-2 days, hide from direct sunlight.
• After 20-30 days, the leaves can be collected.