Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Houseplants Published: February 21, 2019Last edits: April 17, 2021
- Cuttings
- Why does the Christmas tree wither?
The blossoming of the Christmas tree on the eve of the holiday bustle is already like a good tradition, without which, it seems, the mood will not be the same. But sometimes the Christmas tree refuses to bloom. And if we put aside all the signs and beliefs, it turns out that the reason for this could be a single missed nuance of care. For example, the pot is too big. After all, Schlumbergera is a parasitic plant and grows in nature, clinging with a tiny but strong root to the bark of trees or cracks in rocks, and feels great. If the Decembrist finds himself in conditions where his roots have room to roam, he begins to actively develop the root system without wasting energy on flowering. So, the ideal pot for a Christmas tree (which is expected to bloom) is three times less than the length of the largest stems. When planning a transplant, choose a pot that is only 1 cm larger than the previous one. Why the Christmas tree does not bloom yet, withers or turns yellow, and also drops its buds - we will analyze in detail in our material.
Breeding Tips
Despite the fact that caring for the Decembrist in most cases does not cause difficulties, there are still features that should be taken into account.
Several features of the Decembrist:
- As soon as the buds begin to form, the flowerpot with the plant cannot be moved, otherwise the inflorescences will fall off.
- Decembrist does not tolerate watering with water containing chlorine and lime.
- Spraying should be done with warm water.
- Excess water should not be allowed to stagnate, especially in the winter season.
- Fertilizing is carried out with solutions of mineral and complex fertilizers; chemical preparations must be diluted more strongly than indicated on the packaging.
- Decembrist can be grown as an ordinary bush or hanging plant.
With proper care, the Christmas tree grows and blooms profusely for 15 to 20 years.
Possible difficulties after planting the cuttings
1. Withers. The most likely cause is a fungal infection - late blight or phytium. Another reason for leaf wilting is a disease of the root system. If the central trunk of the bush has become unstable, the roots may have died from watering with too cold water. Fertilizers could burn the root system. Regardless of the reason for the wilting, the plant must be carefully dug up and, depending on the state of the root system, a further algorithm of action must be selected:
- cut off the damaged area of the roots, and plant the remaining healthy bush in a flowerpot; if the cause of death is fertilizers, the substrate is completely changed;
- if the root system is completely dead, use cuttings to propagate young plants.
2. Decembrist does not bloom. The Christmas tree has a calendar according to which the plant blooms. If the period of bud formation is not preceded by a rest period, do not expect the Decembrist to bloom. The rest period is as follows:
- from the second half of September, watering of the Decembrist is reduced, fertilizers are stopped and the flowerpot is placed in a cool room;
- at the end of November, the flowerpot is placed on a bright windowsill and watering is gradually increased; as soon as buds begin to form, the plant stops moving and rearranging.
3. Leaves fall off. For many gardeners, especially beginners, the sudden fall of leaves comes as a surprise, since it is difficult to find the cause of leaf fall. Why can a Decembrist shed leaves:
- spider mite;
- lack of nutrients in the soil;
- insufficiently humid air;
- sudden temperature change;
- draft;
- untimely transplantation.
If you promptly identify the cause of leaf fall, you can quickly eliminate the problem and return the Decembrist to its original healthy appearance.
Diseases and pests
Decembrist is a hardy plant, resistant to various diseases. However, improper maintenance conditions can cause dangerous fungal diseases.
Fusarium, late blight, phytium are fungal diseases that affect the root collar. The most likely route of infection is through the soil, where the infection can live for a long time. The infected plant becomes pale, acquires a grayish tint, withers, and individual segments fall off. The bush is treated with special preparations - “Vitaros”, “Topaz”.
Among the pests, the most dangerous for the Decembrist are mealybugs and spider mites. Scale insects form white lumps on the plant that look like cotton wool. They can be easily removed with a cloth moistened with alcohol. If this procedure turns out to be ineffective, you can purchase a special preparation at a flower shop.
The spider mite weaves a thin web around the plant, and the pest is discovered through it. An effective anti-insect drug is Actellik.
Pests and diseases
Decembrist
Insects and fungal diseases can often be a nuisance.
The causative agents of diseases such as Phythium, Fusarium and Phytophthora penetrate the plant from contaminated soil. First of all, the root neck of the flower suffers from them. As a result, the Decembrist
may become gray and pale. As a rule, it begins to wither and lose its segments.
If you find that the Decembrist is covered with a rusty coating, then it is probably affected by spider mites. These small insects, which are brown, yellow or reddish in color, usually appear on a plant that does not have enough air humidity.
It is necessary to get rid of pests quickly. Such drugs as Fitoferm, Neoron and Actellik will help in the fight against them.
If you notice suddenly appearing white lumps on the plant that look very similar to cotton wool, these are traces of mealybugs. These insects can be neutralized using the drug Aktara.
How to care for the Decembrist flower at home
Schlumbergera is an unusual type of cactus. It blooms in winter and does not like high temperatures and bright sunlight. Therefore, the conditions for its maintenance are radically different from the conditions for growing other cacti and succulents. There are certain rules on how to care for Decembrist so that it blooms and has lush and healthy stems.
Lush flowering depends on maintenance conditions
Temperature conditions of growth, location determination
Decembrist, like other representatives of zygocacti, cannot tolerate exposure to direct sunlight. However, the plant requires good lighting. Therefore, for the location of the Decembrist, it is preferable to use window sills on the eastern side of the room. In summer, the flower can be placed in the open air or on the balcony.
Temperature conditions should be selected depending on the periods of plant development. Active growth (vegetation) occurs during the warmer season - from April to September. During the growing season, the flower needs free access to oxygen; the ideal temperature for it will be +20°C.
In the fall, Schlumbergera freezes to prepare for flowering. Incorrect maintenance is the reason why Decembrist does not bloom at home. For a comfortable rest, the flower needs to create conditions of coolness and low humidity. If the plant was kept in the air in the summer, then in the fall it can be left there, keeping the temperature at least +12°C, the temperature in winter - from +16°C to +22°C.
What kind of land is needed for the Decembrist
Before planting Decembrist, you should prepare high-quality soil for it. Schlumbergera is a representative of a species of epiphytes that naturally grow on other plants. Accordingly, the soil must freely allow moisture and air to pass through. The soil mixture consists of leaf soil and sand in equal parts. For better nutrition of the flower, peat or charcoal is added to the mixture. Packaged soil for cacti, sold in stores, is not suitable, as it contains an excessive amount of peat.
The soil for cacti is oversaturated with peat
Rules for transplanting Decembrist at home
How to replant Decembrist at home so as not to harm the flower? It is recommended to do this after flowering in early spring. For the first few years, shoots are replanted every spring, then once every 3 years. The new pot should be 2 cm larger in diameter than the old one. One third of it is filled with drainage. To improve moisture permeability, fine expanded clay is added to the soil mixture. Schlumbergera does not require a high pot as it has shallow roots.
How to water Decembrist depending on the time of year
Unlike other cacti that can be watered infrequently, Schlumbergera requires regular watering. However, you cannot flood the flower, as its roots may rot. You need to water with soft water at room temperature.
Spraying allows you to get rid of dust on the stems
During the growing season, moderate watering is needed. Decembrist must be regularly sprayed with warm water so that the plant receives moisture and the stems are cleaned of dust.
Catalog of indoor flowers with photos and their names. In a special publication on our portal we will talk in detail about indoor flowers. You will learn the types of indoor flowers, about fruit indoor flowers and get acquainted with the photo gallery.Poinsettia (Christmas star)
The beautiful Euphorbia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), also called poinsettia (Poinsettia), is a representative of the Euphorbia genus of the Euphorbiaceae family. In the wild, such a plant can be found in the tropical regions of Central America and Mexico. This plant is an evergreen shrub because in its wild habitats it reaches a height of up to 4 meters. However, when grown at home, the height of the bush reaches only 0.3–0.5 meters. The dark green, ellipsoid-shaped leaf blades have petioles, a serrated edge and are 10 to 15 centimeters long. The rosette-shaped inflorescences consist of pale yellow small flowers, and around them deep red bracts are formed, while unknowing people believe that these are flowers. Today, thanks to breeders, varieties with white, pink, yellow bracts, as well as bicolor ones, have appeared. This plant was named after the first American Minister of Mexico, Joel Roberts Poinsett, who was fond of botany and admired the beauty of poinsettia. This plant blooms at Christmas, which is why it is also called the “Christmas star” or “Star of Bethlehem”.
Brief description of care
- Bloom . This culture blooms on Christmas and New Year's Eve.
- Illumination . Bright but diffused light is required (windows facing east or west).
- Temperature . During active growth and development - from 18 to 25 degrees, during the flowering period - from 14 to 16 degrees, during dormancy - from 12 to 14 degrees.
- Watering . In the summer, the bushes are watered abundantly and systematically, and in the winter, the soil should be slightly moist.
- Air humidity . During the flowering period, the bushes need to be systematically moistened with lukewarm water from a sprayer.
- Fertilizer . Feed the plant in spring, summer and autumn 2 times a month with complex mineral fertilizer. When the bushes bloom, you will need a fertilizer containing a large amount of potassium.
- Trimming . Twice a year: in April the bush is shortened to 15 centimeters, and after replanting the plant is shaped.
- Rest period . In March or April for 6-7 weeks.
- Transplant . Regularly once a year at the end of the rest period.
- Reproduction . By cuttings.
- Pests . Thrips, mealybugs, whiteflies, scale insects, spider mites.
- Diseases . Gray rot, powdery mildew, fusarium.
Growing poinsettia
As a rule, beautiful euphorbia is purchased in the store during flowering and presented as a gift for Christmas. Most often, when the bush fades, it dies, but if it is provided with proper care, such a plant will become a perennial, and it will decorate your home every time at Christmas. Tips for growing poinsettias:
- After the foliage begins to fly around, it is necessary to reduce watering of this plant, and the substrate should be almost dry. You also need to stop adding fertilizer to the soil mixture and shorten the shoots to 15 centimeters from the ground level. Then the container with the flower is placed in a cool and dark place, where it should remain until May.
- With the onset of May, the poinsettia will need to be stimulated to begin growing, and it should be placed in a sunny place. Then you should start watering and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. After the bush begins to grow, it will need to be replanted into a fresh substrate.
- In the first days of October, plants need to be put away at night in a box that does not allow light to pass through. Or the pot can be placed in a closet, and it must be there for at least 14 hours a day. This helps stimulate the formation of buds on the bush.
- From the beginning of the opening of the bracts, the bushes need to be provided with regular care.
When growing beautiful milkweed, you should remember that the milky juice that it secretes is poisonous. The juice can cause the most serious harm to the eyes if it gets into them. There have been cases when the juice of this plant caused an allergic reaction. If it gets into the gastrointestinal tract, it will cause vomiting and intestinal upset. In this regard, it is necessary to wear protective gloves when working with flowers.
All members of the Euphorbia family are poisonous. However, caring for such plants varies greatly depending on the species.
Caring for poinsettia at home
It is recommended to grow beautiful euphorbia on windows of eastern or western orientation. It should be borne in mind that such a flower reacts extremely negatively to drafts and direct sunlight. During active growth of the bush, the temperature in the room should be from 18 to 25 degrees, during the flowering period - from 14 to 16 degrees, and during dormancy - from 12 to 14 degrees.
In summer, the bushes need to be watered systematically and abundantly. At the same time, in winter, watering should be reduced, the substrate should be only slightly damp. After the bush begins to bloom, it must be moistened with lukewarm water from a sprayer.
Top dressing
Feeding such a plant must be carried out in spring, autumn and summer once every half month; for this purpose, complex mineral fertilizer is used. When the bush blooms, it will need fertilizers with a high potassium content. But most gardeners are superstitious and do not feed poinsettias during flowering.
Transfer
Transplantation is carried out in the spring, usually in April–May. This is done at the end of the dormant period after young foliage appears on the bush. For planting, you need to use a slightly acidic substrate, which includes clay-turf, leaf and turf soil, as well as sand in a ratio of 3:2:1:1. It is necessary to make a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot. When transplanting, the new pot should be slightly larger than the old one. In order for the bushes to suffer as little as possible during transplantation, you should resort to the transshipment method.
Poinsettia pruning
Pruning beautiful milkweed is not difficult. This procedure is carried out 2 times a year: in the first days of April during the dormant period, while the bush is shortened to 15 centimeters from the substrate level, and also after transplantation, when young shoots begin to grow on the bush. Thanks to pruning, it will be possible to form a spectacular bush, while cutting out all the weak stems; if desired, they can be used as cuttings for vegetative propagation.
Poinsettia propagation
Under natural conditions, such spurge reproduces by generative (seed) method. When grown indoors, the cutting method is used to propagate such a plant. The cuttings should be harvested in the first weeks of summer; they should reach 70–100 mm in length, and they should have at least 3–6 good buds. The cut should be made directly under the node. The cut-side-down sections should be immersed in lukewarm water, where they should remain for several minutes, thanks to which the poisonous juice can escape from the cutting. After this, the cut sites are treated with a solution of a product that activates root growth. After this, they are planted in containers filled with moistened soil mixture, which should include dry manure, sand and humus. The container is placed in a well-lit, warm place (from 24 to 28 degrees) without bright sunlight, and the container must first be covered with film. Do not forget to periodically spray and ventilate the cuttings.
After about 4 weeks, the cuttings should be completely rooted and can be moved to a cooler location, but it should not be colder than 16 degrees. In autumn, young plants should be planted in pots measuring 18 to 20 centimeters in diameter; only after a year the bushes will become very beautiful and begin to bloom.
Diseases and pests
Pests
In some cases, harmful insects such as thrips, scale insects, whiteflies, mealybugs and spider mites can settle on the bush. Mealybugs can secrete a white, waxy substance, while whiteflies and aphids leave sticky spots on the surface of the foliage. To destroy them, you can resort to traditional methods or treat the bush with a systemic insecticidal preparation. In order to get rid of scale insects and aphids, the foliage must be wiped every day on both sides with a soap solution, and then it must be rinsed in the shower. In order to destroy scale insects, the foliage is treated with mineral oil. However, most often, to destroy pests, you have to resort to the use of chemicals.
Diseases
Such a plant can become ill with fusarium, gray mold or powdery mildew. The development of gray rot is promoted by increased air humidity, while a gray coating of mold appears on the inflorescences, stems and shoots, and brown spots form on the foliage. Affected bushes must be treated with Skor, Fundazol or Celandine.
Due to fusarium, the stems first become brown and then almost black, after which they wither and die. In bushes affected by powdery mildew, a white coating appears on the flowers and foliage, and as the disease develops, the bush underneath gradually turns brown. To get rid of such fungal diseases, you need to use fungicidal preparations, for example, Topaz, Celandine, Fitosporin-M or Skor.
Possible problems
Why do poinsettia leaves turn yellow?
If the bushes are kept in a cool room and water regularly stagnates in the substrate, rot appears on the root system and the foliage turns yellow.
Also, the foliage may turn yellow if the air humidity in the room is extremely low. Because of this, spider mites settle on the bush, which causes a change in the color of the leaf plates.
Why do poinsettia leaves fall off?
Foliage may fly away due to excessively low air humidity in the room or due to stagnation of water in the substrate in a cool room. At first, the leaf blades turn yellow, and then fly off. Yellowing and flying of leaves is also observed with excessively poor watering.
After the Christmas holidays are over, the leaf blades on the bushes will turn yellow and fly off. This is how the plant prepares for the dormant period.
In some cases, foliage may fly away due to poor lighting or sudden changes in temperature.
Why doesn't poinsettia bloom?
Most often this happens due to the fact that the agrotechnical rules for growing this crop were violated. To avoid such mistakes, you need to carefully study the section on the flowering of the most beautiful milkweed. In order for the bush to bloom accurately, it is necessary to ensure the correct temperature and light conditions.
Poinsettia after flowering
The dormant period of poinsettia begins in March or April, and it lasts approximately 1.5 months. After the bushes begin to lose their leaves, their stems need to be shortened to 15 centimeters from the surface of the substrate. Then the pot is transferred to a cool and dark place. The plant should rest well and only occasionally be watered with a small amount of water. In May, the dormant period will end, and the flower will need to be cared for in the same way as usual.
Reproduction
Schlumbergera is propagated only by cuttings. Start the event in early spring, when all the Decembrist buds have faded. You can combine this event with crown formation.
How to propagate zygocactus:
- For cuttings, select strong shoots with 2-3 segments and twist them by hand. Before planting, be sure to dry them for 2-3 days.
- Fill 100–200 ml pots with soil with the same composition as for adult plants.
- Water the substrate generously and plant the cuttings in it to a depth of 1 cm.
- Cover the planting with film or glass and place it in a place out of direct sunlight.
- Maintain a temperature of +15…+20 °C near the greenhouse. Do not forget to ventilate the planting daily and regularly spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle.
- When the cuttings take root and become stronger, remove the cover.
After six months, transplant the young plants into individual pots up to half a liter in volume. In the future, provide the flowers with regular care at home. Reproduction of the Decembrist flower, as you can see, is a simple process. The main thing is to follow the recommendations, and the cuttings will definitely take root.
Why does the Decembrist not bloom?
What to do if the time has come for the Christmas tree to bloom, but the plant does not form buds? There may be several reasons why the Decembrist does not bloom:
- No rest period. Before flowering, the zygocactus must gain strength, for which it is provided with cool conditions and rare watering without fertilizing.
- Bad light. If the plant is located in the back of the room or on a northern windowsill, it may not have enough light in winter. It is necessary to move the flower pot closer to the south or east window or provide the Christmas tree with additional soft, diffused light.
- Lack of nutrients. During the period of active growth and before the flowering period, Decembrist needs to be fed every two weeks. Depleted and poor soil in a plant pot can cause a lack of flowering.
- Insufficient watering. Under unfavorable conditions, the tropical plant will not bloom. Therefore, if the soil is not sufficiently moistened, buds may not form. At the same time, you can’t flood the flower too much. It is necessary to maintain a normal balance.
Reproduction
- By cuttings. The broken off segments are dried for 2 - 3 days. Then simply stick the cutting into moist soil for cacti or orchids. For better rooting, add a small amount of root. After planting, the pot is covered with a transparent film and, ventilated regularly, awaits the appearance of the next segment. After this, the film is removed and cared for as for an adult Schlumbergera.
- Vaccination. To do this, use another cactus. Either the top is cut off, a schlombergera segment is inserted and tied (pinned) into it, or a side incision is made and the same procedure is carried out.
- Seeds. For this you need two flowering plants. On the second day of flowering, cross-pollination is carried out with a brush or cotton swab. The ripening of seeds in fruits lasts 6 - 8 months. After the fruit has become soft, it is picked and the seeds are removed. Treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, the seeds are sown on moist soil. After 6 - 8 weeks of growth, picking is carried out. In the first year of life it is transplanted every three months, in the second it is transplanted three times. The Christmas tree obtained in this way is considered adult only after two years of growth.
Important! Starting from the second month of growth, it is mandatory to fertilize with half the dose of fertilizer for cacti and spray with an aqueous solution of ammonia (a teaspoon per two liters of water).
If an amateur gardener adheres to the simple rules of care and cultivation at home that Schlumbergera requires, then in the end a small cactus from several small segments will turn into a luxurious branched plant that will delight with its large flowers every winter. Now you know how to grow Schlumbergera.
You can learn how to propagate the Decembrist flower at home here.
Secrets of abundant Christmas flowering
In winter, when there is snow and frost outside, we really want more bright colors in life, so we surround ourselves with flowers that can please us with bright blooms in winter. However, there are times when, even with proper cultivation, your favorite flowers do not want to bloom. In our article we will tell you about the reasons for the Christmas tree not blooming, and also share the secrets of how to achieve the appearance of beautiful flowers.
Preparing to plant a plant
The success of growing Varvara braid depends on proper planting. Read on to learn how to plant crayfish.
Did you know? According to popular belief, Schlumbergera
—
This is a flower that absorbs and transforms evil energy and transforms the atmosphere in homes into a positive direction.
Optimal conditions and choice of location
The Schlumbergera cactus migrated to us from tropical countries - Brazil and South America. In its natural environment, it grows on the rhizomes and trunks of tropical plants. Due to the fact that the tropics are areas with an abundance of dense greenery, zygocacti have adapted to live in shaded conditions.
The Christmas tree does not welcome direct sunlight, which can burn the sensitive leaves of the crop. The best place for the flowerpot will be a corner away from the window, which will need to be shaded if necessary. During the flowering period, Schlumbergera will feel great on a shelf, closet or wide windowsill. The main thing is to make sure that the flowerpot has enough space and its stems are not crowded.
Despite its tropical habits, the flower acclimatized well in indoor conditions. It does not require narrow temperature restrictions: it feels great in the temperature range of +10…+35ºС. But at the same time, you should not test it with sudden changes in climatic conditions, for example, by taking it from a warm room to a cold balcony. Preparation for changing temperature conditions should be moderate.
Decembrist is demanding of environmental humidity. It will not feel well in dry air, and during the budding period, future flowers will begin to fall off, so there must be an air humidifier, a tray filled with expanded clay stones, or at least a wet towel near the flowerpot.
Important! Christmas tree shoots need regular spraying (2 times a week). In this case, it is worth covering the soil with a polyethylene film so that water does not fall on the ground.
Also make sure that the flower is not adjacent to heating devices.
Selecting a container for planting
Flower growers who want to place a Varvarin flower in their home are often concerned about the question of what pot is needed for planting. The Schlumbergera cactus has a small rhizome, so the size of the container for planting it should be small. This is the case when the width of the pot should exceed the height. As for the material, it is best to take clay or ceramic containers.
You can also use plastic ones. The main thing is to take care of good drainage of the pot: you can purchase a container with ready-made holes or drill them yourself. As the flower grows, it will need to be replanted and, accordingly, a larger pot will need to be selected.
Preparing the soil for planting
The ideal substrate for Christmas is soil mixtures for cacti, which are sold in every flower shop. The main requirements of the Decembrist for the substrate are looseness, high nutritional value, good air and water permeability. If desired, you can prepare the required soil yourself by mixing turf and leaf soil with peat and coarse river sand or brick chips, the required proportions are 1:1:1:1.
Important! The optimal soil acidity for zygocactus is 5.0–6.5 pH.
To prevent moisture from stagnating at the roots of the plant, it is recommended to add a little perlite and wood bark (preferably oak) to the prepared soil. Before planting, the substrate must be disinfected. It is advisable to heat it in the oven (about 10 minutes), steam it in a water bath, or pour it with a light pink potassium permanganate solution. You can also carry out disinfection by mixing the prepared substrate and crushed coal.
Features of the flower
When you imagine a cactus, a picture of a thorny plant pops up before your eyes, but there are no rules without exceptions, and the Christmas tree is just such an exception: a cactus without thorns.
In general, the Christmas tree is a special plant, and the gardener needs to know about its characteristics:
- Transplanting flowers
- flowering begins in December, before the New Year, which is why it is called Decembrist or Christmas tree;
- since the flowers open slowly, they remain on the stems for a very long time;
- The Christmas tree feels best on north-eastern or western windows. The south window will require shading from the sun's rays;
- as soon as the Christmas tree begins to bud, do not move the pot, otherwise the plant may drop all its buds;
- Water containing chlorine or lime is not suitable for irrigation. The best water for watering a Christmas tree is rainwater, but if there is nowhere to get it, water it with tap water that has stood for ten days;
- In addition to watering, a very important condition for the Christmas tree is air humidity: like all Brazilian plants, the Christmas tree needs to be sprayed with warm water.
Description of the plant
Schlumbergera is a special genus of cacti native to the tropical forests of South America. It was brought to Europe at the beginning of the 19th century and since then has been successfully used as an ornamental houseplant.
In countries located on the territory of the former USSR, this flower is also known under the names “Decembrist”, “December”, “Rozhdestvennik”, “Christmas cactus” and “zygocactus”.
Did you know? Federick Schlumberger is a famous cactus collector who lived in Normandy in the 19th century. Its name was given to a beautifully flowering succulent in 1858 by another Frenchman, Charles Lemaire, a botanist and writer, who spent his entire life preparing materials for a large-scale book about cacti, but never implemented the plan to publish it due to poverty and lack of a sponsor.
Zygocactus is an epiphytic plant. This means that the root system of this succulent is very weak and superficial, so the flower receives all the main nutrients and energy through aerial roots and through photosynthesis, using moisture in the air. In dense tropics, this ability allows the cactus to withstand competition with other, more powerful plants and, using them as a support, to reach closer to the light.
Decembrist, like other cacti, has no leaves. Their function is performed by numerous bright green stems, formed in the form of a lush bush and representing long and flat drooping chains, as if assembled from several successively connected cell fragments measuring approximately 2x3 cm with jagged edges.
Wild varieties of zygocactus have spines, but most indoor plant hybrids lack such “decoration”.
At home, zygocactus can grow up to 40 cm in height, and the decorative flowing stems allow the flower to be grown not only on window sills, but also in hanging pots (in the hanging manner).
Christmas tree flowers bloom in several tiers at the top of the stems, 1–3 on each. The shape is a slightly curved tube with wide petals and far protruding pistils.
Find out more about how to properly plant and care for Decembrist at home.
The sizes of the flowers are quite large, and the color can be different: the natural shades for zygocactus are red and white, but among the hybrids bred by breeders there are plants with pink, yellow, orange and purple flowers.
Schlumbergera received its popular names due to its most characteristic flowering time. While in Brazil this process occurs in the summer, in the northern hemisphere the cactus usually begins to bloom in the winter months.
However, experienced flower growers claim that with good care, the plant can delight you with the appearance of flowers at any time, sometimes twice or even three times a year.
general information
The Christmas tree is native to the Brazilian and South American tropics . Schlumbergera belongs to the genus of epiphytic thornless cacti. It is a branching plant with flat, small shoots and jagged edges.
Christmas flowers come in a variety of colors, but lilac, red, white, pink, purple and orange are often found in the color palette. The size of the flowers reaches 8 cm, and they flaunt at the ends of the stems of the Christmas tree.
The buds of the Christmas cactus open rather slowly, and the main flowering period occurs in almost all winter months.
What kind of pot is needed for a zygocactus: description and photo
Decembrist, also called zygocactus, is an unpretentious plant, but it is still necessary to observe certain conditions for caring for it. First you need to choose a pot in which the Decembrist will grow. You can choose a standard clay vessel, a plastic pot, or even an enamel bowl
It is important that the container for the plant has a wide radius and stability, but is not too bulky
The root system of the Decembrist is miniature; it does not need huge containers. After purchasing a plant, it must be replanted at home, because the soil intended for transportation is not suitable for the systematic and healthy growth of the Decembrist, nor for its flowering.
In a pot that is too large, the Decembrist will constantly enlarge the root system, and you can forget about flowering during this period
It is important to choose a small but wide container that will be ideal for the plant. Next you can see photos of pots suitable for planting the plant:
Below you can see photos of pots suitable for planting plants:
Feng Shui meaning of a flower
According to the teachings of Feng Shui, the Decembrist is a flower that has a positive effect on the energy in the house , cleansing it of all negative aspects: quarrels, misunderstandings, minor difficulties, illnesses and the energy of unpleasant people.
The location of the flower in the house does not play a special role, but it is advisable to place it in the place where all family members most often gather. As a rule, this is the kitchen and living room. With his aura, the Decembrist will create an atmosphere that will have a beneficial effect on family relationships. Household members will be kinder and more open with each other. And if there is discord in the family, then, thanks to the zygocactus, very soon all misunderstandings will be resolved.
If you place a flower in the money zone (southeast sector), then the family will not know financial difficulties and problems.
The ideal placement option is the family zone (eastern sector): the plant perfectly activates it, giving intra-family relationships more trepidation, tenderness, love and mutual understanding.
Results
To believe or not to believe in omens and superstitions? This is a personal matter for everyone. In any case, you should not blindly compare your life with the “behavior” of a flower . Any plant is a living organism that experiences certain stages of its life: active growing season, flowering, withering and even death... You should not see any double meaning in these completely natural phases.
If you do not take care of the Decembrist, then the death of the flower will be a completely natural result, and behind this event the punishing finger of fate is not at all hidden.
On the other hand, any sign associated with the Decembrist is a signal that should make a person think about whether he is doing everything right, how long has he been taking care of his health, worrying about his loved ones... This is a reason that forces you to reevaluate your life and actions and return to eternal values: family, relatives, loved ones...
What periods does the plant go through?
Active growth
Decembrist actively develops from March to September. The root system increases significantly in size. Access to fresh air during this period is required. It is possible to use both window sills and warm balconies and loggias. If possible, the Decembrist should be placed under a lush tree, provided that the daytime temperature is +20°C and above. As the soil dries out throughout the summer, regular watering is carried out. Excess moisture or stagnation should be avoided, as the cactus does not like this. Fertilizers and feeds are used to promote growth and are applied every few weeks.
Rest
The whole month of October is allotted for this plant. Growth during this period is inhibited, as new buds are being laid. The length of daylight hours becomes shorter, as well as the need for frequent watering fades into the background. The temperature should be 12-19°C. The plant remains in the same place (balcony, clearing, window sill) until the end of the period.
The trick to increasing the number of buds is to water them not with ordinary water, but with tea leaves. After such manipulations, even those representatives that have not produced buds for the last few years begin to bloom. The compositions used for flowering plants are used as fertilizers, which are applied at the end of the month.
Period of abundant flowering
This stage of the Decembrist’s life lasts for two months and lasts until January. The plant is located in a warm room in which the temperature will be 16-19°C. Watering is carried out abundantly, but not frequently. The settled water should be replaced with weak tea without fillers and flavorings. Phosphorus and potassium compounds are used as fertilizers. To develop strong and healthy buds, you should then use egg tincture or calcium nitrate. After the first buds appear, the pot should not be moved or rotated.
Stasis
Lasts no more than a month and is interrupted with the onset of March. The time is coming for the formation of the Decembrist bush. It is not recommended to remove the upper segments; they are carefully unscrewed. Otherwise, branching and increased density may begin.
During this time, you should often pay attention to the surface of the soil, which should not dry out.
Mistakes by newbie gardeners lead to the following consequences:
- Cessation of Decembrist flowering for an indefinite period. It is a consequence of lack of compliance with the correct temperature regime. An incorrectly selected soil mixture will give the same result.
- Frail buds quickly crumble. This indicates that the pot was often moved or rotated. Watering conditions may not be observed. It is impossible to stop the process of shedding buds.
- The segments begin to rapidly turn red. The plant was simply frozen. If the ambient temperature drops below +5°C, the plant begins to turn red. To change the current situation, the plant is transferred to a heated room.
- Darkening of the segment and subsequent wrinkling. The reason lies in watering, which was carried out incorrectly. Both over- and under-watering can lead to this. If no measures are taken to change the situation, the roots of the plant will begin to rot.
Varieties of Schlumbergera and its difference from Ripsalidopsis
Ripsalidopsis is often confused with Decembrist. Without going into scientific details, the main difference between Rhipsalidopsis and Schlumbergera is that it blooms in the spring. It is called the Easter cactus. Another difference is the shape of the leaves. Compare in the photo.
From left to right: Ripsalidopsis leaf, Schlumbergera leaves
Sometimes other types of cacti with similar flowers are also called Decembrist, although their flowering time differs. For example, epiphyllum, dysocactus and others.
Schlumbergera can bloom from November to February. Most often, flowering lasts from December to February. Depending on the conditions of maintenance and the hybrid species, Schlumbergera may bloom again in the spring.
Of the six species and their hybrids, they mainly contain two. This:
- Truncated (Trunkata). It has jagged projections along the edges of the leaves. It’s clear from the name that something is truncated somewhere. Namely, this is a flower corolla, which seems to be beveled. Many colors of flowers have been developed: pink, red, white, orange, crimson, yellow and others. There are also multi-color ones.
- Bookley (Buckley) . This species is usually called “Decembrist”. Its leaves have rounded projections. The flowers are a non-hybrid lilac-pink color. Hybrid varieties have the same variety of colors as Truncata.
Schlumberger Booklet and truncated
Three more popular varieties are Gertnera, Orssich and Rousseliana. Breeders have already created several hundred varieties of Schlumbergera hybrid species, which are combined into variety series. Types and varieties differ in the shape and size of the bush, in the shape and color of the flowers.
Types of Schlumbergera in the photo
Gertner's Buckley
Orsich
Russella (Rousseliana) Truncata (truncata)
Caring for Schlumbergera does not depend on the variety. Choose the one you like best.
You can plant different varieties in one pot. But you can’t plant Schlumbergera together with similar genera that bloom at different times! (For example, with ripsalidopsis or epiphyllum). Their conditions are similar, but the preparation time for flowering is different.
When choosing a variety, keep in mind that the color in the photo may differ from the natural one. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a variety after seeing the flower “live”.
Photo gallery: a huge variety of Decembrist varieties
Anapolis Brazil Angel Dance
Ascot Aspen Bahia Brazil Big Fire
Bridgeport Bruxas Brazil Bulletin Cambridge Christmas Сheer Coral Cascade Sunny Bright Pink Illusion Fairy Tale
Floral Bouquet
Inca Sun
Day Bloomers Gold Charm
Epic Star
Just Peachy Liberty Jasma Jay Madonna Dance Malissa
Outono Brazil Parana Brazil
Campinas Brazil Peaches and cream Red Flame Rusty Samba Brazil
Sao Paulo Brasil Savannah Sol Brasi Sp Rober
Sterling
Thor Kiri Thor Vida Thore Alise Vila Velha Brazil White Eva Exotic Dancer
Preparatory work
Since we are talking about an epiphyte, the choice of pot for such a succulent is not of fundamental importance. However, a deep container in this case is an unsuccessful choice, since space free from the plant’s root system is always associated with an additional risk of the development of various pathogenic microflora.
For the same reasons, heavy soil is not suitable for zygocactus. The substrate should be loose and light, with good moisture and air permeability. A slightly acidic soil (pH level in the range of 5 to 6) is preferred.
For beginners, it is best to purchase ready-made soil marked “for cacti” or “for succulents.” However, this mixture needs a little refinement.
In order for the soil to be as close as possible to the natural characteristics of Schlumbergera, the purchased substrate must be diluted in a 2:1 ratio with a specially prepared composition:
- peat - 2 parts;
- crushed sphagnum moss - 1 part;
- broken expanded clay - 1 part;
- sand - 1 part.
More experienced gardeners can prepare the substrate for planting zygocactus themselves by mixing:
- leaf soil - 6 parts;
- turf soil - 1 part;
- humus - 4 parts;
- peat - 2 parts;
- coarse river sand - 2 parts.
The easiest way to do this is to place the material in the freezer overnight (or put it on the balcony if the night temperature outside drops to at least -10°C), then keep it warm for 12 hours and freeze again.
You can also heat the substrate for several hours in an oven heated to +70°C (at a higher temperature, beneficial soil bacteria die, which depletes the soil), or simply pour it generously with a saturated pink solution of potassium permanganate.
Did you know? A rather unusual, but well-proven method of preparing soil for zygocacti is to use orchid substrate as a base. Since such a mixture does not contain soil at all and contains only dried fern roots, sphagnum, tree bark and charcoal, it is mixed in equal parts with leaf humus.
Finally, to plant Schlumbergera you will need expanded clay, fine gravel or other material that will provide a reliable drainage layer in the pot. This is necessary to prevent stagnation of water in the soil, which zygocactus, like any other succulent, does not tolerate at all.
When can you replant a Christmas tree?
It is best to carry out this procedure in the spring, when the plant is actively gaining leaf mass and, therefore, can easily survive replanting. The soil, depleted by this time, will need to be renewed, which will also be useful for the zygocactus itself. At other times of the year, that is, in summer and autumn, it is also possible to replant the Christmas tree, but it is still not recommended.
Find out how and when to replant indoor plants.
The transplantation process itself is, in any case, stressful for the plant, so for its successful adaptation to a new environment, a whole range of beneficial factors is necessary. If the transplant is made in the spring, then the Decembrist will have about 6–7 months left to receive the necessary amount of heat and light, and therefore recover for a new flowering period.
Reproduction methods
There are several ways to propagate the Christmas tree:
- cuttings;
- vaccination.
The most accessible and effective method is cuttings. Breeding a Christmas tree using a scion is a much more difficult task, but can also be done at home.
How to propagate Decembrist by cuttings
1. Time for reproduction. Zygocactus cuttings take root well, regardless of the time of year and the weather outside the window. But the best time to start breeding Decembrist is from April to May. At this time, the mother plant has already flowered.
2. Selecting a cutting. For leaf propagation, healthy, undamaged cuttings from three separate elements are suitable. It is necessary to inspect the plant and select a separate shoot with small roots. If you want to grow a lush bush, you will need several cuttings.
It is preferable to select shoots from a less dense area of the plant, this is explained by the fact that after cuttings the adult plant is rejuvenated, and in place of the cut shoots others will begin to grow intensively and bloom profusely.
3. Separation of the cuttings from the mother plant. Under no circumstances cut off the shoot with a knife, scalpel, scissors or other sharp objects. Use only your hands. Take the stalk, pinch it a little and twist it, turning it around its axis. Hold the plant with your other hand so as not to accidentally break it.
4. Preparing the cutting for planting. The shoots need to be dried; to do this, they are left in a container in a dry and dark room for a day. A transparent film forms at the site of separation - this means that the plant is ready for planting. If possible, the cuttings can be sprinkled with sand or charcoal.
5. Soil preparation. The easiest way is to buy universal soil for cacti in a specialized store. Soil acidity should be between 5.5-6.5 pH.
You can also prepare the substrate yourself. Optimal soil composition for Decembrist:
- leaf soil - 6 parts;
- humus soil - 4 parts;
- peat – 2 parts;
- sand – 2 parts;
- turf soil - 1 part.
Zygocactus grows better in soil that is enriched with peat, so some gardeners grow Christmas trees in pure peat. The two main conditions that apply to the substrate are lightness and breathability.
Note: a third of the pot is filled with drainage to avoid stagnation of water in the pot.
6. Planting cuttings. The size of the flowerpot should not greatly exceed the volume of the root system. The roots of zygocactus are poorly developed, so there is no need for a large pot. The pot is filled one-third with drainage, and one-half with prepared substrate. The soil is slightly pressed down and moistened. A depression is made in the center and a shoot is planted. If you need to plant several cuttings, make holes according to the number of plants.
If it so happens that it’s time to plant the shoots, but you haven’t had time to purchase a flowerpot yet, use disposable cups. The top of the plant should be covered with a glass container or polyethylene.
7. Growing conditions. The container is immediately placed in partial shade and the temperature is maintained from +15 to +20 degrees. Plants need to be ventilated regularly - the cover is removed daily for 20-30 minutes. Moderate watering is required.
For complete rooting, the Christmas tree needs 3 to 4 weeks. As soon as new leaf segments appear on the cuttings, it is transplanted into a permanent flowerpot.
Reproduction by grafting
This technique is unpopular and is used extremely rarely. If you want to experiment and learn new floriculture techniques, try planting Decembrist. Two plants are suitable for this:
- prickly pear;
- Pereskia spinosa.
The upper part of the prickly pear or pereschia is cut off, the stem is cleared of leaves and split closer to the upper edge. 2-3 segments of Decembrist are used as a scion; the lower part must be sharpened and inserted into the prepared slot. After this, the grafting site is fixed with a needle and adhesive tape. Plants grow together at a temperature of +18 degrees for several weeks.
The fixing bandage can be removed as soon as the plant begins to grow. All side shoots and leaves on the plant to which the Decembrist was grafted must be removed, otherwise the rootstock will not have enough strength to provide the grafted cuttings with nutrients. If the grafting process is done correctly, the Decembrist will bloom in the first winter.
The main mistakes when growing Christmas trees
Christmas trees are fairly undemanding plants to grow, but they also require minimal care. Often flower growers make the same mistakes, which lead to the fact that the crop stubbornly refuses to bloom.
Related article: List of fungicides: instructions for use
Temperature violation
Due to the fact that zygocactus is a tropical plant, it prefers to grow at a temperature of 15 degrees and tolerates a decrease in this level extremely painfully. If you place a flower on the balcony for the summer, you should move it indoors with the arrival of the first frost. Drafts and hypothermia are also detrimental to the plant. This can cause root disease and wilting of the Christmas tree. The most optimal temperature at which it is recommended to grow Christmas trees is 16-20. During budding, it should be lowered to a temperature of 12-13, and when the flowers begin to bloom, maintain a temperature of 15 degrees.
Excessive moisture
The regularity of watering should be structured in such a way that the soil in the pot does not become waterlogged. Because of this, the zygocactus may lose all its leaves and will not bloom. If you have flooded your flower, you should replant it in new soil, having first removed all rotten root shoots. The plant needs to be moistened only when the top layer of soil in the flowerpot is completely dry. The norm for watering is considered to be twice a week.
Incommensurate pot volume
Christmas tree likes to be grown in cramped pots. There is a misconception that the larger the pot, the denser the bush will be, but this rule does not apply to the Decembrist. When planting, you should select the container so that it is one third less than the length of the stem. In the wild, zygocactus is a parasitic plant and has an underdeveloped root due to the fact that it parasitizes tropical trees. Under this condition, all the plant’s energy will be spent on creating buds and strong stems. Therefore, if you plant a plant in a large pot, it will begin to form a thick root that climbs to the top, and the stems will be small and long. In this case, flowering does not occur.
If you want to rejuvenate the Christmas tree, transplant it into a new pot 1-2 cm larger than the previous one and cut off all the apical shoots, leaving only young shoots. This way, you will provoke the growth of new stems and the formation of buds.
No sleep period
Keep in mind that zygocactus is a plant that blooms in winter. In order for flowering to be abundant and long, the plant should be given rest. To do this, in the second half of October and until the beginning of December, you need to lower the temperature in the room to 15 degrees and reduce the frequency of watering to once every 14 days in small doses. If you are unable to maintain the required temperature, water the flower once every 7 days. After such a rest, your flower will bloom in three months. If you plan to bloom in the spring, arrange a dormant period from January. It should be taken into account that during sleep the duration of daylight hours should be no more than 8 hours. It is also important to maintain optimal air humidity, since the plant is accustomed to growing in a tropical, humid climate. To keep the plant healthy and blooming profusely, protect it from direct sunlight, which it does not tolerate. It is best to place the pot on the east window.
Change of seasons
Seasonality is very important for the life of the Christmas tree, since each month is responsible for certain processes that occur inside the plant. Knowing about them, you can plan proper care rules for yourself.
Changing the phytodirection of a flower
This mistake is very often made by novice flower growers. It involves rearranging, rotating and moving the pot during flowering and when the buds open. Such manipulations will certainly lead to the shedding of most of the buds.
Decembrist flowering period
A plant completely covered in gorgeous flowers is a beautiful, joyful sight. However, without certain care it will be very difficult to achieve flowering of the Decembrist. The main thing is to properly prepare the zygocactus for the flowering period.
In order for the bush to bloom profusely, it should be grown in a narrow flowerpot. In a room with cool air, flowering will last for a long time. When the Decembrist blooms, it is strictly forbidden to expose it to unexpected temperature changes. During this period, gardeners do not advise preparing cuttings for propagation or in any way moving or rotating the flowerpot where the zygocactus grows
The dormant period will promote the formation of more buds. In winter, use an additional lighting source. The temperature regime is no higher than +16 degrees, this promotes more active flowering. During August, it is necessary to completely eliminate fertilizing the soil, spraying the plant, and reduce watering to the possible minimum. Then watering and fertilizing can be resumed, but with extreme caution and caution. The plant can always shed even almost opened buds.
When purchasing a blooming Decembrist, you should expect that some of the flowers will fall off. This is a natural process that cannot be interfered with. The plant adapts to an unusual environment.
Care after flowering
Sometimes you can see such a picture when a purchased flower can shed all its buds. And this is part of the standard process of adaptation to the changed conditions of the flower.
During the period of rest and rest, Decembrist
It is necessary to place it on the windowsill and provide it with light partial shade.
It should be close to the window, behind a transparent curtain. After flowering, the plant's stems can grow at temperatures up to 37 degrees. But the optimal temperature regime for Decembrist
is 18-25 degrees.
We propagate Decembrist
How does Decembrist reproduce at home? By cuttings. Christmas tree blooms in winter. By spring, it begins a new growing season. This is the time for cuttings.
It is best to separate the cuttings after flowering. Schlumbergera produces aerial roots. For cuttings, find a cutting with a pair of shoots and unscrew it. It is unacceptable to use a knife or scissors to separate the sprout.
The segment is taken with two fingers and slowly turned. The shoot will painlessly separate from the mother. After separation, the cutting needs to be dried. It is left in the air. The process lasts from two hours to two days.
You should pay attention to how to root the cuttings. The dried sprout should be planted in sand or its substitute, for example, perlite.
Having planted the shoot, they wait for the roots to appear.
It is also possible to stimulate root growth in water. Then you need to add kornevin to the liquid - a means that accelerates the development of the root system. After about four weeks, a new segment will appear on the process. Rooting went well, the cuttings can be planted in the main soil.
Reproduction of Decembrist by cuttings is also possible under banks. In this case, the shoots are immediately planted in the main soil, but covered with small transparent jars. A kind of greenhouse is formed on the windowsill. From the moment of planting until the sprout emerges from under the jar, approximately the same amount of time passes as when planting in sand. The signal of well-being will be the same new segment.
Types and varieties
More than two hundred varieties of Decembrist are known, all of them bloom in winter. Zygocactus is not a homogeneous systematic form, and currently 9 species of this plant are known, the main types:
- Kautskyi - Schlumberger Kautsky;
- Microsphaerica;
- Opuntioides – Sh. prickly pear;
- Orssichiana - Sh. Orsichiana;
- Russelliana - S. Rousseliana;
- Truncata - Sh. truncated.
However, when growing indoor Decembrist in pots, one encounters mainly Schlumbergera truncated hybrids.
Pure varieties are rarely found in indoor cultivation. These are mainly hybrid forms. Zygocactus blooms in very different colors: from white and cream, to various shades of pink, purple, red, even yellow. Among the Decembrist varieties, the following should be noted:
- Bristol Queen - white and pink flowers;
- White Christmas – white or white-pink;
- Nicole – pink;
- Sunset Dancer – red;
- Thor Alise – bright red;
- Westland - small and red flowers;
- Dark Eva – two-color flowers: white and pink;
- Bristol Rose – two-tone: dark pink and white;
- Christmas Cheer – two-color: orange-red;
- Gold Charm – new variety, yellow.
Non-flowering due to disease
If you do everything correctly, but the flower does not want to bloom, inspect it for the presence of harmful insects or fungal spores. Orange dots on flowers indicate the presence of red mite, which likes to eat flowers. To combat it, the plant is wiped with a cotton pad soaked in a soap solution made from laundry soap and treated with insecticidal preparations.
Fungal diseases and infections can be indicated by the appearance of rot, which spreads to the roots and stems, as a result of which the Christmas tree drops its buds and stops blooming. To treat a diseased flower, cut off all rotten parts of the root and treat it with fungicides. Then the flower is transplanted into fresh soil and a new pot. All flower stalks are cut off so that the zygocactus gains strength and overcomes the disease.
The small size of flowers and rare flowering may indicate that the soil is depleted and the plant needs feeding. It does not have the strength to develop a large number of colors.
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