Fuchsia seeds: how to plant fuchsia seeds at home

Fuchsia is a graceful plant that is characterized as a dancing flower or a ballerina. Some call it a Japanese lantern, while others call it a fluttering butterfly. This indicates that fuchsia is a beautiful flower, which by its mere appearance sinks into the depths of the soul and heart, and is associated in our minds with something very pleasant.

Numerous flowers of the plant, which somewhat resemble cute little skirts, delight our eyes all summer. It is not surprising that the plant is so popular, because it blooms so beautifully. But this beautiful creation requires some effort and attention. To provide the plant with proper care, you need to know how to do it. This article will help you learn about growing and caring for fuchsia at home.

Description of fuchsia with photo

First of all, I would like to say that the Fuchsia genus includes approximately one hundred species of plants that belong to the Fireweed family. Its representatives live in the mountain forests of America, and are also found in Mexico, Argentina, Tahiti, New Zealand, Chile, Peru and the Falkland Islands. Under natural conditions, the plant always lives in partial shade, under the canopy of trees.

The leaves of the plant are opposite; their shape can be either lanceolate, ovate, serrate, or crenate or entire. The fruits of the plant are quite juicy, and somewhat resemble berries. The appearance of Fuchsia is either bushy or creeping. It has graceful flowers on thin stalks, which differ in different colors.

The main feature of fuchsia that gives it the greatest grace is the long, brightly colored stamens protruding outward and the prominent pistil style. All this makes the plant a unique creation.

Fuchsia in winter

If the plant overwinters in a very warm place and there is little sun, the shoots will begin to stretch out, and there will be no flowering in the new season. This will affect the decorative appearance of the fuchsia and may even cause the leaves to drop. To avoid this problem, you need to organize additional lighting or move the flower to a colder place - a basement, a balcony. In this case, watering and fertilizing are practically eliminated. When spring comes, the temperature around the flower is increased gradually so that it is not a shock to it.

Growing by seeds

If fuchsia is already sprouting at home, then you can take the seeds yourself. True, the seed selection procedure is problematic and time-consuming, but the process itself is very interesting. To be able to use seeds as planting material, you will need to pollinate the flower:

Must be a mother and father plant. From the mother's plant, when the buds are opening, you need to carefully remove the anthers using tweezers, then remove the pollen from the father's bush and put it on the petals of the mother's. It is inconvenient to obtain fuchsia seeds using this method, because there is no certainty that all properties will be preserved.
If there is only one bush in the house, then pollination is carried out on one plant. Pollen is taken from stamens of one color and placed on a pistil of a different shade. The necessary qualities are preserved.
The pollinated buds are covered not with dense matter, but with gauze. Under the cover, the perennial fruit begins to sprout. This technique will not allow fuchsia to be pollinated by insects.
When the fruit appears, the gauze is removed. Initially, the berry is red in color, after which it becomes purple and at the end of ripening the color is purple.
It is recommended to pick berries when the sun is outside. Fuchsia seeds are carefully removed from the fruits and sent for drying, but care must be taken to prevent mold from appearing. The dried seeds are placed in sealed bags and stored in the refrigerator until spring.

If you don’t want to do the process yourself, then you should buy planting material in the store. You need to understand what fuchsia seeds look like before purchasing. Knowing what the seeds look like, you can start planting; it falls from February to April inclusive.

Fuchsia is planted in special soil; you can buy it or make it yourself. The composition of the soil is as follows:

Sod land - 3 parts.
Peat – 2 parts.
Sand – 1 part.

The ingredients are mixed and placed in a small container. Before planting fuchsia seeds, the soil is moistened, lightly irrigated with potassium permanganate and compacted a little.

Fuchsia cultivation:

The seeds are placed on the top ball of soil, not sprinkled with it, but simply pressed a little deeper. This condition is very important, because without light, seedling material will not appear.
The seeds are small and to make sowing easier, it is recommended to add them to the sand.
For quick germination, a greenhouse effect is created by covering the container with film or glass.
The box is left in a warm and well-lit place, but out of the sun. For seedlings, the optimal temperature is from +18 degrees, but not more than 20.

When condensation forms on the glass or film, the cover is removed and the container is left for ventilation. Growing from seeds at home does not require much moisture in the soil, but if the soil dries out, it can be sprayed with a spray bottle. Water is used at room temperature.

How to get seeds

The continuity of the existence of an exotic plant in our conditions can be ensured in three ways:

obtaining from seeds;
propagation by petioles;
growing from a leaf.

Those gardeners who want to know in advance what will grow from a fuchsia seed prefer store-bought seed.
But amateur breeders are often driven by the desire to obtain an interesting hybrid through artificial pollination.

The selected plant from which seeds are needed must be deprived of the possibility of self-pollination. Therefore, all anthers from the stamens of blossoming buds must be carefully cut off. Then, using a squirrel paint brush, pollen from a flower of another plant is applied to the pistils.

After pollination, a bag is put on the bud , which is tightened with thread or twine.
This is protection against foreign pollen grains and loss of ripe seeds.

At home, this measure can be neglected, but if the plant is in the open air, fruits with seeds can become prey to birds or a gust of wind.

Bags can be:

gauze;
paper;
from non-woven covering material.

The latter option is preferable when fuchsia is placed in open ground (for example, cold-resistant varieties “Ricartona” and “Fuchsia graceful”).

Overheating is possible in paper bags, and gauze bags stick together when wet. In a few weeks, dark, soft fruits will ripen. Then the bags are removed and the fruits are cut.

Carefully! You need to carefully remove fuchsia seeds from the fruit so as not to damage the seed.

The resulting seeds are dried for several days. This prevents rotting and improves germination. After drying, the seeds can be planted or stored.

Care

Fuchsia has a huge number of hybrid forms with straight and pyramidal stems; there are ampelous and spreading varieties, hanging, climbing, in the form of bushes and bonsai. Fuchsia blooms profusely and for a long time with beautiful lantern flowers. We'll tell you how to care for indoor fuchsia at home:

Temperature

Comfortable temperature for growing fuchsia at home is 18 – 22 °C in summer and not higher than 18 °C in winter. If the temperature is above or below these limits for a long time, the decorative properties of fuchsia may suffer. The buds will begin to fall off, the leaves will become smaller and lighter. The plant will slow down its development. There will be a risk of infection by diseases and pests.

If the temperature during the active growing season of fuchsia drops below comfortable, the same effect will occur. The plant orients itself based on the ambient temperature. When it is warm and light, the flower actively develops and blooms profusely, usually from spring to autumn. At the end of autumn and winter, when it becomes cooler and there is less sunlight, the development of the fuchsia flower stops, buds stop forming - the fuchsia is preparing to rest.

Location

It is better to place flowerpots with fuchsia on the windowsills of the eastern and northern sides of the room. Even here, the flower must be protected, if necessary, from direct sunlight with the help of blinds or curtains. On north-facing windows in the spring, fuchsia may not have enough lighting. You will have to provide the bushes with illumination using a phyto lamp or a fluorescent lamp for up to 12 hours a day.

On southern windows, especially in the summer, fuchsia will be too hot. It is better at this time to take the flowerpot with a flower into the garden under the trees or onto the balcony, where the sun's rays will illuminate the fuchsia only early in the morning. At noon and until evening, fuchsia feels best in partial shade. During flowering, it is advisable not to move the flower from place to place and not to turn different sides towards the light. Fuchsia doesn't like this, and can simply drop all its buds.

Watering

Proper watering is the most important component of caring for blooming fuchsias. Many factors influence the frequency and quantity of watering a flower:

Pot location
Fuchsia variety
Her growth stage
Soil composition
Pot size and type
Weather

Without additional nutrition, fuchsia can survive for quite a long time, but without water it cannot. Fuchsia needs to be watered regularly. Make sure that the soil is well saturated with moisture each time. The next watering should be no earlier than the top layer of soil from the previous watering has dried out. Excess water from the pan must be drained to prevent moisture stagnation in the roots of the plant.

A flowering plant has a great need for moisture. In the summer, you will have to water frequently and regularly - every 3-4 days, and sometimes more often.

If the fuchsia looks drooping and the soil in the pot is wet, the problem is not watering. Perhaps your beauty has overheated.

In autumn, watering is gradually reduced to once a week, and in winter, watering is done no more than once or twice a month.

Feeding

Fuchsia needs to be fed regularly, once every two weeks. This is especially important during the active growing season, from April until autumn. For feeding, complex fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants are used. Watering with liquid fertilizers must be done on moist soil. Fertilizing helps fuchsia grow green mass and form countless buds. You can also use foliar feeding of fuchsia on the back of the leaves.

During winter dormancy, fuchsia is not fed.

Young, newly planted fuchsia bushes do not need to be fed, as they are planted in well-prepared soil filled with all the necessary microelements and organic matter. The same rule applies when transplanting a plant into a larger pot with new nutrient soil. Feeding should be resumed about a month after transplantation.

Humidity and spraying

For fuchsia, air humidity is comfortable within the range of 50 – 60%. Too dry indoor air will cause fuchsia leaves and buds to yellow and wilt. You can increase the humidity of the surrounding air using wide containers of water placed next to the fuchsia. You can also place the flower pot in a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

On hot summer days, fuchsia will be saved from the heat by regular spraying with settled water at room temperature in the morning and evening hours. It would be good to take the fuchsia out into the fresh air in the garden, in the shade under the trees, or at least on the balcony, where the sun's rays reach only in the morning. But we must remember that this must be done carefully - after all, fuchsia does not like being moved from one place to another during flowering.

When spraying, try not to get the spray on the flowers.

Universal care

The light requirements for adult fuchsia plants are the same as for young ones - good, but not direct lighting. The flower does not like it when it is often moved to another place or the pot is turned so that the crown is illuminated evenly.

There are species that are even better to grow in the shade - Bolivian, small-leaved and three-leaved fuchsias, see photo:

Fuchsia also needs periodic replanting. When roots grow from the bottom of the pot hole, the planting container needs to be changed. The new pot should not only be larger, but also light in color to reduce heat build-up .

Despite its tropical origin, fuchsia does not tolerate overheating of its roots. For the same reason, you should avoid plastic pots and choose ceramics.

The flower grows quickly, within a year the bush becomes mature and strong . The branches randomly stretch in different directions, so it is necessary to cut off the excess to form a crown. Regular spraying of leaves has a very good effect on the vegetative mass.

Every two weeks the plant needs a portion of feeding . During the flowering period, complex fertilizer is replaced with flower fertilizer, for example “Pocon”, or fertilizer for tomatoes. “Ripen-ka” is also suitable for tomatoes or peppers.

Fuchsia from seeds at home will bloom only in the second or third year. Therefore, gardeners most often resort to vegetative propagation.

Read more about caring for ampelous fuchsia here.

Trimming and pinching

Fuchsia flowers appear on young shoots. To increase the number of such shoots, the plant should be regularly pruned, and young shoots should be pinched. Pinching is a very effective method of making fuchsia bloom more abundantly. Using pinches, the desired shape is formed, giving the crown the appearance of a ball, bush or miniature bonsai tree.

Fuchsia, depending on the variety, grows to a height of three meters or more. It is difficult and impractical to grow such a giant indoors. If you pinch the plant in time, it will form into a strong and beautiful bush.

Indoor fuchsia should be trimmed twice a year: in the fall, at the end of the mass flowering of the flower (October), and in the winter (early January).

Fuchsia in the form of a tree

During the first, autumn, pruning, you will remove all faded fuchsia branches at a height of 2 cm from the dormant buds. Carefully inspect each branch for pests, remove excess seed pods and outdated flower stalks. If insect pests are found, cut off severely damaged parts of the flower and treat the entire plant with an insecticide.

Do the second pruning in early January to finalize the crown of the plant. If the fuchsia overwintered in the basement or garage, the plant has already been pruned in the fall. In spring, all that remains is to remove dry shoots and leaves from it.

If the plant has been in the room all winter, it must be trimmed. Use clean pruning shears or garden shears to remove any long, thin shoots as they will be of little use. They will not bloom luxuriantly, and your bush will not become more beautiful from them.

Fuchsia bonsai

If the plant is periodically pruned, it will grow in width instead of height. It is also better to cut off woody old shoots, since they consume nutrients and have almost no flowers. All flowers bloom only on young shoots. A strong and beautiful bush will soon form.

If you decide to form a bonsai from fuchsia, then leave only one shoot or, conversely, several such shoots that can be twisted together so that they act as the trunk of your tree. The tops must be pinched to form a lush crown of the bonsai.

What is the best way to pinch fuchsia so as not to harm its beauty and decorativeness?

If you want to form a tree from fuchsia, pinching should be done in winter, when the life processes of the plant slow down. Remove excess shoots, leave a few on the central stem. Look what happened in the spring. If the crown of the flower is not yet formed as you would like, prune it again in the spring.

You can trim the plant right to the stump. In this case, the fuchsia will sleep longer and bloom later, but a wide bush will form.

If the shoots are cut back by only a third, the fuchsia will turn into a tree and can take up a lot of space.

The shoots that grow in place of the old branches are pinched a couple of times as they grow. Fuchsia will then turn into a lush beauty and will delight you with abundant flowering.

If young branches are pinched above the third pair of leaves, tillering will increase. To enhance the effect of tillering, the regrown branches need to be pinched again, but now near the second pair of leaves.

You decide for yourself what you will grow from fuchsia - a bush or a tree!

Keep in mind that before fuchsia blooms, two months pass for the formation and development of buds. Fuchsias with small simple flowers bloom earlier than plants with giant inflorescences and large double flowers.

Fuchsia seeds

Grains for planting can be purchased at a specialty store. Many gardeners prefer to select plants online and make payments upon receipt. The grains must be fresh. They should be selected depending on the type of fuchsia and personal preferences.

Beautiful fuchsia flower

Important ! When a plant is propagated by seeds, the risk of loss of varietal characteristics increases.

If the gardener has an adult fuchsia, then you can pollinate it artificially and collect boxes with grains in place of wilted inflorescences. Using several varieties for this procedure allows you to grow a plant with a unique color.

What do fuchsia seeds look like?

Fuchsia seeds are obtained from the fruit that forms during flowering. They are light brown in color and small in size. The achenes are similar in shape to garlic cloves. Most often in the store you can find such varieties as Bella Rosella, Holiday, Foxtrot. Planting and care are carried out depending on the plant variety. The packaging usually contains step-by-step instructions on how to sow and care for seedlings.

Landing

It is impossible to plant fuchsia or, especially, a cutting immediately into a large pot. It is necessary to increase the size of the pot gradually. At first, the pot should not be more than 9 cm in diameter. As the roots entwine the entire lump of earth and the need arises to replant the plant, you can prepare a slightly larger pot. Place a good layer of expanded clay or other drainage material on the bottom. Add a layer of soil and plant the prepared bush or cutting.

The pot must be well filled with soil to prevent voids between the roots and the walls of the pot. To do this, gently shake the pot and tap on its walls, but under no circumstances compact it with your hands. For fuchsia to grow, porous soil is as important as good drainage.

Further care

Fuchsia seedlings develop well with proper care. Water the plants with settled water at room temperature. Moisturizing is necessary as the top part of the soil dries out.

Important! To prevent blackleg disease from appearing, use a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate for watering or scatter wood ash on the soil.

When the second pair of leaves is formed, young fuchsias can be planted in separate containers with a diameter of 7-9 cm. Expanded clay should be placed at the bottom of the cups and small holes should be made to drain excess water. Using a pencil or other object, make depressions in the soil and carefully, holding the leaves, lower the fuchsias into them.

The transplanted plants are placed in a shaded place where the sun's rays do not penetrate for 1-2 days. This measure is necessary for better adaptation of the sprouts.

Fuchsia in a pot

Caring for plants is impossible without applying fertilizers. Fuchsias especially need additional nutrition during active growth and during the flowering period. For fuchsias, ideal, agricola, and zdraven are suitable. Moreover, all types of fertilizers can be applied only on moist soil.

Folk remedies can be used as additional nutrition.

Banana peel in the amount of 3 pcs. pour 2 liters of water and infuse for 5 days. Next, the solution is filtered, diluted with water 1:1 and the flowers are watered.
Wood ash (2 tablespoons) is poured into 1 liter of water. After 2 days, the nutrient solution is ready.
Onion peel. This component is in every home. To fertilize fuchsias, just soak a handful of onion peels in a three-liter jar for 2 days.
Castor oil (1 teaspoon) is added to 1 liter of warm water, shaken well and sprayed on the plant. This fertilizing promotes lush flowering.
Aquarium water. This feeding is effective to use from early spring to mid-summer. Water from the aquarium only on wet soil, since it is also a fertilizer.

Soil preparation

The first thing you should pay attention to when growing this flower is the soil. It can be purchased at a flower shop. For fuchsias, ready-made specialized mixtures for flowering plants are suitable. They have a normal, non-acidic environment, which is ideal for growing strong and viable sprouts. Experienced gardeners prefer to prepare the soil mixture themselves. Today there are 3 known methods:

a mixture of peat, perlite and sand. They are needed in equal parts;
crushed sphagnum moss, humus (preferably rotted) and vermiculite to make the soil loose. The components are mixed in equal proportions;
a mixture of turf, peat, pine bark, sand. The components are prepared in a ratio of 3:1:1:1, respectively.

Before planting, the soil must be disinfected. A weak solution (light pink) of potassium permanganate is suitable for this. During processing, thrips and nematodes are killed, and the likelihood of mold and pathogenic microflora formation is reduced. If you have a special drug “Fitosporin”, it will successfully replace a solution of potassium permanganate.

The container does not play a special role for growing seedlings. The most commonly used are plastic cups or wide containers. The main condition for a container is the presence of a large number of holes for water to drain. A drainage layer (2-3 cm) can be laid at the bottom of the container. Expanded clay or small pebbles are suitable for this.

Selecting and purchasing seeds

By purchasing fuchsia seeds at a flower shop, you can grow a wide variety of hybrids and varieties of this plant.
Fuchsias “Holiday” and “Foxtrot” are very popular, presented in a variety of color variations. When choosing seeds , you should keep in mind that for best germination they must be fresh. It doesn’t hurt to choose seeds from well-known companies that have earned the trust of customers.

It should be remembered that when fuchsia is propagated by seeds, the plant may lose varietal characteristics.

If the gardener has an adult flowering plant, you can get seeds by artificially pollinating it and collecting oblong seed pods in place of wilted flowers. Moreover, if you use several different varieties for pollination, you can eventually grow fuchsia with a unique color .

Types and popular varieties

Over a fairly long period, many types of fuchsia have been bred. This article will only talk about a few.

Fuchsia hybrid

An upright or hanging shrub. It has quite bright flowers, which are distinguished by their large size. A distinctive feature of this variety of fuchsia is its differently colored cups and petals. This species has a large number of varieties. Among which are:

Litte Bell, since the flowers of this variety somewhat resemble bells;
Cecile - the shape of the flowers is reminiscent of the skirts worn in the fifties;
Swingtime – the flowers resemble some unknown overseas birds.

Fuchsia hybrid

Fuchsia trifoliata

It is considered a rare type of fuchsia. A distinctive feature is the presence of rhizomes, elegant large foliage with a reddish-green color, short inflorescences, and finally, bright coral flowers. The fuchsia variety is quite hardy. Varieties: Bacon, Constance, Garden News. These varieties are winter-resistant and can be kept either in little or no shelter, or under snow.

Fuchsia trifoliata

Main types

Fuchsias in the garden are grown from hybrid varieties, having previously grown the seeds in a pot

Hybrid varieties of this plant are most suitable for growing fuchsia at home. As a rule, these are small trees or bushes. But it is also possible to keep ampelous species in hanging pots.

Three-leaved. A bush with dimensions up to 60 centimeters, which tends to grow in width, so it can be used to decorate walls in hanging baskets.
Reddish-green above and brownish-red below, the leaves, 8 centimeters in size, are shaped like an egg. The veins on the leaves are slightly pubescent. The flowers are bell-shaped and orange-red in color, collected in inflorescences of five to seven pieces. The flowering period is from May to October, but with careful and proper care of the plant it can be significantly increased.
Magellan. A bush that can reach a height of 3 meters when fully developed. The leaves are purple in color, with traditional fluff along the veins, and measure 4 centimeters. When flowering, single flowers are formed, but there can also be inflorescences of 4 flowers each.
Flowering occurs from early spring to early autumn. Tolerates cold well.
Recumbent. A creeping plant, which is mainly used as a hanging plant. When flowering it produces a variety of shades of pink and orange. The flowers themselves are always directed upward and grow singly. Blooms from spring to autumn.
Sparkling. A plant that grows up to 2 meters and has large, 12 centimeters wide and 20 centimeters long, serrated leaves. After flowering, berries appear collected in clusters and are edible. Blooms from June to late August.
Graceful. A relative of the Magellan, it reaches a height of one meter when kept indoors, and in nature can grow up to three meters.
The flowers are pink-reddish in color, large in size and very beautiful. From spring to late autumn you can enjoy the sight of these flowering plants.
Bolivian. It blooms in early March and blooms until the end of April. The one meter high bush is decorated with long (up to 30 cm) peduncles that gracefully hang from the branches, with flowers collected in clusters. It must be kept in a warm room, as this species does not tolerate cold.
Thin. It can grow up to 3 meters indoors, so it needs pruning to stimulate wider growth. The leaves have a reddish tint, and the flowers, collected in racemes and hanging on long stalks, have purple and violet shades.
Flowering begins in July and continues until the end of September.
Thyroid. It can grow up to three meters, but with timely and correct pruning it usually does not grow more than one. The flowers are pink, violet, purple, collected in racemes and have a long and thin shape. Flowering occurs from July until the end of September.
Bright red. From April to the end of September, the bush of the plant is strewn with red (scarlet) flowers with purple additives. The thin shoots hang beautifully and are strewn with oval green leaves in the shape of a heart. One of the most popular types for growing fuchsia at home and at work (office).
Hybrid. There are a great variety of such types of fuchsia. Some exist in only a few copies, as they were bred by amateur flower growers exclusively for themselves, independently grown from sown seeds with hybrid pollination. Particularly popular types are widely available - Ballerina, Alisson Bell, Henriette Ernst, Anabel, Thalia and Ampelnaya (Imperial Crown, Hollies Beauty, Blue Angel, Prince of Peace).

Transfer

Taking fuchsia out of an old pot

Fuchsia is a fast-growing plant. Therefore, it must be regularly replanted into a pot of suitable size, which is 3–4 cm larger than before. It is better to do this every spring, when the flower begins to awaken and grow.

It’s better to take a ceramic pot so that it protects the plant’s root system from overheating in the summer heat. Don't forget about drainage. 2 - 3 cm of expanded clay or pebbles at the bottom of the pot will protect the roots of the plant from rotting. As a substrate, it is better to take a purchased soil mixture for flowering indoor plants.

You can also prepare the soil for replanting fuchsia yourself. To do this, mix leaf soil, turf soil, humus, peat and coarse river sand in equal parts. Replant using the transfer method: pour a little prepared soil into the pot on the drainage layer, then carefully remove the fuchsia from the old pot and place it in a new pot together with a lump of earth. Fill the voids on the sides with soil mixture.

After transplanting, place the fuchsia on a shelf with diffused lighting. Trim its stems to one-third of the length. Spray the leaves and water the substrate with settled water until excess water appears in the pan. After a few minutes, drain excess moisture from the pan.

After transplantation, no additional feeding is needed for a month!

Now wait a couple of months - abundant fuchsia blooms are guaranteed!

How to grow fuchsia from seeds at home

Fuchsia from seeds at home can be obtained quite easily if you know some of the nuances. These include the correct selection of soil, sowing, necessary conditions for germination and further care of seedlings.

Soil preparation

It is recommended to make a substrate for fuchsia. To do this, take 3 parts of fertile soil, part of river sand and 2 parts of peat. Mix everything thoroughly and fill the prepared container with soil, in which the fuchsia will then be grown. It is also allowed to use ready-made purchased substrate.

Sowing seeds

The best period for growing fuchsia from seeds is the end of winter (February) and the beginning of spring (March-April). Plant seeds lose their viability very quickly, so it is not recommended to use those that have been stored for a long time.

Conditions for germination

The container with seeds must be kept in a well-lit place, but without direct ultraviolet rays. The optimal temperature is considered to be +18-20 degrees. The container should be covered with plastic wrap. For germination, some gardeners recommend using peat tablets. After 20 days, you should inspect the container: during this time, shoots should appear. Depending on the variety and external factors, the germination process can increase to 30 days.

Additional Information ! Blackleg is a dangerous plant disease. To prevent infection, add wood ash to the soil or use a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Home grown seedlings

Further care of seedlings

With proper care, seedlings develop quickly. It needs to be watered if the top layer of soil becomes dry. For irrigation, you should use settled water at room temperature. It is recommended to periodically irrigate the plants with settled water from a spray bottle.

When the second pair of leaves is formed, young shoots can be transplanted into separate containers with a diameter of 7-9 cm. Expanded clay should be poured onto the bottom of the container and small holes should be made in the bottom to drain excess liquid. Fucia sprouts are buried in the ground and lightly compacted. After transplanting, the seedlings must be placed in a dark place for 2 days so that the plants adapt faster.

During the period of flowering and active growth, fuchsia should be fertilized. For feeding, such products as “Zdraven”, “Agricola” and “Ideal” are suitable, which are applied on wet soil. The flower should be fertilized twice a month. As additional nutrition, you can use compositions prepared according to folk recipes. Most often they are made from:

onion peel. A handful of skins are poured with three liters of water and left for 2 days;
castor oil. Fertilizer promotes beautiful and lush flowering. Take 1 tsp per liter of warm water. oils Everyone thoroughly shakes and irrigates the plant;
banana peel. Place 3 banana skins in a two-liter jar, add two liters of water and leave for 2 days. The solution is filtered. Before watering the flower, it is necessary to dilute the liquid with water in equal proportions;
wood ash. Add 2 tbsp per liter of water. l. ashes. Stir everything and set aside for 2 days.

The plant must be pinched when pulling, otherwise it will not be compact. During active growth, the tops are cut off, trying to form a healthy, lush and strong bush. When the container becomes too small for the seedling, you need to purchase a pot with a diameter 3-4 cm larger.

Why fuchsia picking

Grown bushes need to be pruned, that is, planted in separate cups or pots. This will prevent further intertwining of the roots of neighboring plants and their competition for mineral nutrition. Diving is possible when the first leaf appears on the plant, but it is better to carry out the procedure at the stage of two or three leaves.

Fuchsia has a fibrous root system. Plants of this type need to be pruned by pinching the main root by one-fourth . Cutting off the tip ensures intensive development of lateral roots and greater viability in a new location.

A bush with a trimmed root is lowered into a glass or pot of soil, where it will grow until the adult stage or before planting in open ground.

The replanting container must have drainage holes and a two-centimeter layer of pebbles at the bottom.

The soil is poured the same as that used for seed germination.

In the prepared recess for the sprout, carefully straighten the roots, sprinkle them with soil and lightly compact the soil. In this case, the soil should be watered abundantly to increase the contact of the roots with the soil. Planting depth is up to the cotyledon leaves; the root collar should not be hidden by the ground.

Not all gardeners consider it necessary to cut off the main root. Many people try to transplant the sprout directly with a lump of earth from the cell into a cup, adding soil from the sides and protecting it from any damage.

When to plant seeds

It is believed that it is best to plant fuchsia in the spring: the optimal time for planting fuchsia seeds is March or April.

However, this is not a formula: there is evidence of a successful January planting. Moreover, by March the height of the bushes reaches ten or fifteen centimeters.

Note! Having outlined the month when you plan to plant seeds, it is worth taking into account the lunar phases. They are registered in lunar calendars. You need to focus on two weeks during the waxing moon (from new moon to full moon) - the above-ground parts of plants planted during this time period will be as dense and strong as possible.

Propagation by cuttings

Rooting cuttings in water is the main and most successful way to propagate fuchsia. The best time for cuttings is spring. Choose a young shoot from a fuchsia bush. The length of the cutting depends directly on the fuchsia variety. Usually they take from 10 to 20 cm. The point is that over time, the fuchsia shoots harden a little. If you take an old shoot for propagation, it will also take root, but this process will take longer. The young shoot will take root faster and will grow more actively in the future. Remove the leaves at the bottom of the shoot so that none of them comes into contact with the liquid in the container prepared for rooting. Also cut off large leaves completely or in half. The cutting does not yet have its own roots, and the leaves will draw all the moisture from it, preventing the root system from forming. Place the cutting in a jar of settled water and cover the top with a thick translucent bag. In 5 to 10 days, roots should appear. After a couple of weeks, the cutting can be planted in a prepared (preferably ceramic) pot with a nutrient mixture and drainage at the bottom. The size of the pot should be no more than 9 cm in height.

Rooting cuttings in water

If you decide to propagate fuchsia in the summer, keep in mind that it loves coolness and humidity. At high temperatures, a cutting placed in water may rot without ever sprouting roots. We advise you to root the cuttings in a room with air conditioning or a split system.

In autumn, fuchsia prepares for a dormant period. All life support processes of the plant slow down. So from September to January it is better not to propagate using cuttings.

The second method involves planting the cuttings immediately in a prepared substrate - in a peat tablet, in perlite, vermiculite or sphagnum. Be sure to place the planting material in a greenhouse or container with a lid to create a greenhouse effect, since such rooting requires high air humidity. As soon as the shoots take root, the greenhouse is opened slightly and the seedling is gradually accustomed to indoor conditions.

A sudden change in climate can cause the shoot to lose its leaves and die.

Autumn harvesting of cuttings

Autumn harvesting of cuttings is the best way to preserve fuchsia during the winter. In early autumn, take several cuttings from an adult healthy bush. They are suitable for propagating fuchsia. We take several cuttings as a safety net in case some of them do not survive the winter.

Cuttings need to be taken 15 - 20 cm in length, depending on the variety. They are stored in pots with soil in cool places, such as garages and basements. You can also save fuchsia cuttings on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, in a bag of sawdust. Closer to spring, they are taken out, treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and placed in water for rooting. (see above)

Growing from seeds

to grow fuchsia from seeds at home from February to April, when daylight hours gradually increase. The soil for growing should be light and nutritious. You can purchase it at a flower shop or compose it yourself from:

3 shares of turf land;
2 shares of peat;
1 share of coarse and clean sand.

If possible, you need to freeze the fuchsia soil in the refrigerator or on a cold winter balcony to disinfect it. Or you can spill boiling water on the ground.

Containers for planting fuchsia seeds should be low and wide enough. A clear plastic container with a lid is ideal.

More need to be made in the bottom of the container . It is very important to place the container in a tray, which can be the same bowl or a suitable low lid.

Next, you need to pour a layer of drainage 2 or 3 cm high from expanded clay, broken shards or pebbles onto the bottom of the bowl. This will prevent stagnation of water and death of seedlings from the “black leg”.

Then you need to fill the bowl with earth and compact it so that 2 or 3 cm of height remains from the surface of the earth to the edge of the container. To prevent mold and other soil diseases, it is necessary to spill it with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate or spray the soil with it from a spray bottle.

You can also grow fuchsia in peat tablets. In this case, it is best to plant one seed per tablet moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Many gardeners claim that plants develop faster in tablets. In addition, the tablets reduce the number of necessary pickings, since the seedling lives in the tablet for about a month until it has mastered the entire earthen lump.

Next, you need to evenly distribute the fuchsia seeds over the surface of the ground, lightly pressing them into it. Seeds germinate in the light. It is very important that when watering the seeds do not fall deep into the substrate. To do this, the earth must be compacted sufficiently tightly.

The bowl with the seeds must be covered with a transparent lid, plastic bag or glass to create a “greenhouse”.

Fuchsia seeds germinate at temperatures from 18 to 22 °C, depending on the variety. Until the seeds germinate, keep the soil moist but not wet. If you create a real “swamp” in a bowl, there is a high probability that mold will appear on the ground, which can destroy even strong seedlings.

As the soil dries, you need to spray it with a spray bottle or moisten it through a tray. It is very important to ventilate the bowl with soil several times a day to remove condensation from the lid and saturate the soil with oxygen.

Read about the types of begonia with photos and names in this article.

Rhododendron is easy to care for if you take note of these tips.

After a period of 20 or 30 days, the first shoots . From this time on, watering must be carefully regulated. It is necessary to carefully water the seedlings at the root with drops from a pipette or syringe, and spray the part where there are no seedlings yet with a spray bottle.

At this time, it is necessary to open the “greenhouse” for an increasingly longer period of time in order to accustom the seedlings to room conditions. After some time, it is necessary to completely abandon the “greenhouse”.

When
the seedlings grow a second pair of true leaves, they need to be pruned, that is, planted in separate pots.
These should be very small containers. Plastic cups with a volume of 100 or 200 ml are ideal.

Holes must be made in the bottom of the cups . The drainage layer and soil - everything should be exactly the same as for seedlings.

Each seedling must be carefully transplanted into a cup, keeping its earthen lump intact and adding soil to the sides of the sprout.

When the soil dries out, you need to water it moderately along the edge of the container or into the pan. From time to time you need to spray the seedling with water and feed it with complex fertilizer 2 times a month.

It is very important to pinch the fuchsia when it stretches out, otherwise you won’t get a compact bush. Pinching, that is, removing the top, must be carried out regularly as the plant grows to form it strong, healthy and lush. When the seedling's glass becomes clearly too small, it is necessary to transplant it into a pot 1 - 3 cm larger in diameter. Flowering will occur in the second year of life.

As you can see, growing fuchsia from seeds is not at all difficult. You just need to follow all the rules and pay a little attention to the seedlings every day - and a fabulously beautiful plant will settle on your window.

And for the most curious, we suggest you watch a video about rooting fuchsia cuttings in coconut tablets.

Diseases and pests of fuchsia

Rust

Root rot. When you notice that your fuchsia roots are becoming soft and brown, you can safely say that the plant is affected by root rot. It is very important to promptly determine the presence of the disease, so you will avoid the death of the flower. The main reason: waterlogging. Even good drainage will not help; stronger measures must be taken. Remove the plant from the pot, wash the roots under lukewarm water, cut off the affected parts, and place in a container with good, clean water. When new white roots appear, feel free to plant the fuchsia in a pot.
Gray rot. Signs of the disease: the affected part becomes watery and soft. Reason: too humid air. When fuchsia is affected by gray rot, a coating will appear on its leaves. In this case, the affected parts should be removed, this should be done with extreme caution. Move the plant to a more suitable place with dry air. In this case, the plant should be ventilated periodically. If necessary, you can use purchased products to treat gray rot.
Rust. Signs: A powdery rusty coating forms on the underside of the leaves. This indicates that the plant is sick with rust. If timely measures are not taken, then such a misfortune threatens all fuchsia flowers. Such spores are carried by the wind and can infect other plants that are nearby. Destroy the affected parts of the fuchsia, and try to spray fungicides twice in eight days.
Whitefly. When the summer is hot, all the windows in the room are open, so the whitefly can easily fly into the room and lay its eggs on the leaves. You definitely won’t notice its arrival, since the butterfly is very small. As a result, small white droplets form on the plant, and they cannot be washed off with water. Otherwise, it will get even worse. Butterflies will begin to hatch from the eggs, the number of which will be quite large. They feed on fuchsia juice. As a result, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. This period will be fleeting, and soon the butterflies will begin to eat the plant stem. Action needs to be taken urgently. Wash the leaves with warm soapy water. It is very important to pay special attention to the inside of the leaf and the stem. Be sure to protect the fuchsia roots, as the soap solution will destroy them. If the stage of pest infestation is not so late, then several washes will be enough. If this does not help, purchase special products.
Mite. It won’t take much time for such a pest to destroy a plant. Try to check fuchsia daily for the presence of this pest, especially if the room is dry and hot. Signs: matte leaves, yellowish, as well as small gray and black spots. You can also notice a cobweb on the plant. If the mite infestation is severe, the leaves will begin to fly off. Try to carry out repeated treatments; once will definitely not be enough. You can use “Fitoverm”, “Akarin”, “Agravertin”. Treatment (repeated) should be carried out three times, with a break of a week.

If you adhere to the basic rules of growing, then pests and diseases will not be able to destroy your plant. The main thing is to take preventive measures in time.

Fuchsia: growing from seeds without problems

When growing a flower from seeds, not everything always goes smoothly. Beginning flower growers may encounter a number of difficulties:

Yellowing of foliage. If the lower leaves turn yellow, this is normal. When yellowness spreads throughout the plant, this is the result of pest activity. Lack of light, high air temperature, sudden climate change can also be a source of yellowing of leaves.
Deficiency of iron and magnesium causes chlorosis, as a result of which the leaf blade begins to turn pale. In this case, the plant is fed with iron chelate.
The leaves are withering. Loss of turgor most often indicates a lack of moisture. This happens during the period of active growth of fuchsia, and also when the flower is systematically flooded. Prolonged exposure to the sun also causes foliage to wilt.
Few flowers. Poor flowering or its complete absence occurs as a result of heat, dry soil, lack of light, and poor wintering conditions. Buds may fall off due to changes in location and heat.

By following all the rules of care, you can avoid these troubles and grow a healthy flowering plant.

Fuchsia from leaf

The leaf is cut from the mother plant along with the petiole.
It is better to dip the cut tip into a growth stimulator, for example “Kornevin”.

Then the petiole is planted in a cup of soil and care is taken to keep it moist all the time.

Experienced flower lovers who know how to root a fuchsia leaf faster recommend covering the planting with another transparent cup. To prevent overheating and mold growth, the leaf is constantly ventilated.

After two to four weeks, the leaf turns into a bush. After full growth, it is placed in a permanent pot.

Transplanting into pots

Some time after the sowing has been completed, after the second pairs of true leaves appear on the plants, they should be plucked and planted in individual containers:

Containers for transplantation should be light and small. The ideal option is plastic cups of 100 or 200 ml with holes in the bottom of each of them.
Planting should be done in the same way as planting seedlings - in a layer of soil and drainage.
Seedlings need to be very carefully transplanted into cups, leaving the earthen clods intact and sprinkling them with earth.
After the soil dries, regular but moderate watering of plants in trays or along the edges of containers will be required.
It is also necessary to periodically spray the seedlings with water using a spray bottle, as well as fertilize them with complex fertilizers, which should be done twice a month.

When pulling out the fuchsia, be sure to pinch it. Otherwise, the bush will not be compact. Cutting off the top is carried out when the plant is actively growing. This way it will be well formed and will be lush, healthy and very strong.

When it becomes noticeable that the seedling cup has become very small, the plant should be transplanted into a pot whose diameter is 2-4 cm larger. When sowing seeds, you can count on the appearance of flowers within a year.

Conditions

Knowing how to grow fuchsia from seeds, you still need to understand the growing conditions for bush, hanging and other types of perennials. In spring, it is better to take the pots into bright rooms, but where there is no direct rays of the sun. From the sun, the leaves begin to burn and fall off. There is an opinion that the darker and brighter the color of a plant, the more sunlight it needs. This rule should be used and if delicate shades predominate, then the shadow side of the house will do.

During active flowering, the pots do not need to be moved to preserve the flowers, which is the advantage of the plant. Some watering rules to pay attention to:

The soil should not dry out; watering is carried out when the top 2 cm layer is dry.
With insufficient or excessive watering, the color falls off.
This type of plant loves moisture, so you need to frequently spray the perennial with a spray bottle. This procedure is done 2 times a day.
Water is used that has been left standing for 24 hours.

It is necessary to create optimal temperature conditions for the shrub. Bushes do not like heat, so the temperature in the house should not exceed 22 degrees. In extreme heat, the bush dies.

In mid-autumn the leaves begin to fall, and in winter the bush does not need to be disturbed. It is recommended to place the pot in a cool, shady place where it will be 4-10 degrees. When all the sheets are reset, the pot is moved to complete darkness, and watering is significantly reduced.

Sprout care

In order to grow a thick and healthy flower from a young sprout, it is necessary to properly care for it.

So, immediately after planting, the young shoots are removed for a couple of days in a shaded place, allowing the flower to better adapt to the new pot.
Watering the plants is carried out with settled water at room temperature, preventing the top layer of soil from drying out and forming a dense crust.
As a top dressing, use any mineral preparations for flowering plants or fertilize the flower using folk remedies. Using banana peel infusion gives good results. To prepare the composition, 3 skins are poured with two liters of water and infused for 5 days. Then the resulting infusion is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio and watered over the fuchsia. You can also use an infusion of wood ash, for the preparation of which 2 tbsp. l. ash is poured with a liter of water and left for a couple of days, as well as a tincture of a handful of onion peels and three liters of water, infused for two days. Some gardeners advise occasionally watering fuchsia with aquarium water, and this can only be done on wet soil.

If you do everything according to the rules and do not neglect the advice of experts, then fuchsia grown from seeds will begin to bloom in the second year of life and will delight the owners with bright flowers and gorgeous greenery.

For more information on how to grow fuchsia from seeds at home, see the following video.

Conditions for germination

An important condition for good seed germination is to ensure optimal environmental conditions:

the room temperature should reach 23-26 degrees. Providing such conditions is much easier than it seems. It is enough to place a transparent lid or film over the pots, thereby creating greenhouse conditions;
It is recommended to grow seedlings closer to the window so that the germinating flowers can be saturated with sunlight;
It is recommended to ventilate the room daily;
the soil must be moistened regularly.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

Why fuchsia doesn’t bloom, what to do, how to care for fuchsia

A healthy plant may refuse to bloom, and then you need to look for the reasons for this phenomenon. They may be different, but the root is the same - improper care. The main problems are as follows:

the plant overwintered in a warm place;
there are practically no useful substances left in the soil;
very frequent watering;
the pot is of the wrong size;
there is very little light, the lack of which inhibits active growth and bud formation.

To ensure fuchsia flowering, these problems must be eliminated. If the wintering was warm, after it the shoots are severely pruned. If the pot is unsuitable, organize a flower transplant. The roots should not protrude from the pot and should not feel too open, otherwise the fuchsia will begin to form green shoots and will not bloom.

Useful tips from experienced flower growers

In fact, fuchsia does not require much attention. The main thing is to understand something right away before you encounter a problem:

In order for fuchsias to grow and develop normally, they need to be provided with a lot of light and an influx of fresh air.
It is recommended to protect plants from direct sun.
Fuchsias with rich colors require more light than varieties with light colors.
Growing fuchsia with cuttings is even easier than with seeds.
Frequent spraying will help young fuchsias grow actively.
To enjoy flowering, you should maintain the room temperature to 20°C.
If the fuchsia begins to stretch, it needs to be pinched.
If plaque has formed on the soil, remove it and add new soil.
The plant needs to be replanted into a container whose volume exceeds the previous one by only 4-5 cm.

Planting and growing fuchsia from seeds is not difficult. This beautiful plant will definitely thank the gardener with abundant flowering and will decorate any interior. But you will still have to make an effort for this, since you won’t be able to catch a fish out of a pond without difficulty!

How to plant seedlings in flower pots

Fuchsia is popular because it is out of season. In winter it can be placed on the windowsill, and in summer it looks beautiful on the balcony. One plant is enough for a pot due to its rather large size. Planting seedlings is carried out identically to transferring them to a regular pot.

There are several types of ampelous fuchsia that are ideal for planting in outdoor flowerpots and flowerpots:

Holly's Beauty has pink and white inflorescences with double petals;
Prince of Peace - flowers with a red skirt and white sepals;
Imperial Crown - elongated scarlet flowers collected in clusters;
Blue Angel - flowers, faceted white sepals, have petals of predominantly purple and lilac shades;
Bicentennial - oblong double inflorescences with light sepals that turn orange over time.

Interesting ! Thanks to the plant and its brightness, the color “fuchsia” and the aqueous solution of fuchsin got their name.

Variety Prince of Peace

Fuchsia is a perennial that was introduced from Central America. It gained popularity due to its original and beautiful flowering, easy care and unpretentiousness. Designers love to use the plant in the interior because of its original inflorescences. You can grow this beauty at home yourself from seeds if you follow the gardeners' recommendations.

What to do in the fall

In the fall, you need to prepare the plant for winter dormancy. To do this, from September you need to gradually reduce watering. By the time frost sets in, fuchsia should be dry. Stop giving fertilizer so that the plant begins to shed all its greenery and flowers. Move the fuchsia to a place where the light is much weaker.

If suddenly the room is too dark, then simply turn on the incandescent lamp for several hours every day. It won't be hard work.

Possible difficulties in breeding fuchsias

It must be borne in mind that cuttings should take place in accordance with the following rules.

Optimal conditions

The optimal temperature regime should not be violated. The temperature should not fall below 14°C or rise above 24°C.

Although watering is required so that the root system does not dry out, it is also necessary to spray the bushes 1-2 times a day. When the cold season comes, the life of the plant freezes. Therefore, in winter, watering should be kept to a minimum.

Proper lighting must be provided. Fuchsia loves bright light, but it should not be scorching. The best choice is abundant diffused lighting. When growing at home, the best place for fuchsia will be window sills near the most lit windows.

Important! If there is a lack of natural lighting, artificial lighting can be used. As soon as flowers appear, it is not recommended to move the flower to a new place

Because of this, flowering may stop

Once the flowers appear, it is not recommended to move the flower to a new location. Because of this, flowering may stop.

You can grow fuchsia outdoors if it is located in the shade.

Watering is necessary whenever the top layer of soil begins to dry out.

During hot weather it is important to carry out the procedure daily

For your information! Ampelous fuchsias are grown by placing several cuttings in one pot.

Planting fuchsia cuttings

Top dressing

The flower needs to be fed regularly. To do this, it is necessary to use complex fertilizers. This must be done during the period when fuchsia blooms. At this time, you need to choose fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. Feeding should be done on a weekly basis throughout the year, with the exception of the winter period. Fuchsias growing outside need to be fertilized with organic fertilizers.

Note! Every spring these flowers must be replanted in new soil.

Features of care

Removing dried flowers and leaves plays an important role. It is necessary to loosen the soil regularly. To combat pests, you need to inspect the plant.

If there is not enough light, the plant can drop its flowers. The stems will become very elongated in such conditions.

It is important to consider that roots do not respond well to overheating. It is necessary to keep fuchsia in such conditions that the temperature for the flower is comfortable

Although these flowers are undemanding to care, you still need to take into account that they do not tolerate excess moisture well. If this problem is not solved in time, then rotting of the roots will occur, which will spread to the leaves. As a result, the flower may die.

Growing in plastic containers

Pest and disease control

The presence of excess moisture creates favorable conditions for the plant to become infected with the fungal disease gray rot. To cure fuchsia from it, it is necessary to use special fungicidal preparations. Products containing a high copper content can also help.

Note! For the treatment of fungal diseases, the use of Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1% is effective. Rust disease is also a danger for the plant.

This is when yellow-orange spots form on the leaves. At the first stage of infection, the lower leaves begin to fall off rapidly. Then all the others fall off. If a sick flower is treated with the drug Virtan, this will help cure the flower

Rust disease is also a danger to the plant. This is when yellow-orange spots form on the leaves. At the first stage of infection, the lower leaves begin to fall off rapidly. Then all the others fall off. If a sick flower is treated with the drug Virtan, this will help cure the flower.

Not only diseases, but also insect pests can be dangerous for a plant. Aphids, spider mites and whiteflies can attack the flower. These insects, once on fuchsia, are located on the lower part of the leaves and feed on the sap of the plant. At the same time, the leaves dry out, turn yellow and fall off due to the fact that they do not receive nutrition.

Appropriate insecticides must be used to control insect pests.

How to care for fuchsia outdoors

Watering

Fuchsia is one of the plants that love moisture. It can either be watered or sprayed. But the main thing here is not to overdo it and show moderation. Fuchsia should be watered every day, but this should be done with a small amount of water. Otherwise, your plant will be at risk of root rot. Before watering, assess the top layer of soil. If the fuchsia is dry at a depth of one centimeter, then watering is very necessary.

It is very important to install a drainage layer at the bottom of the container. This is necessary so that the roots do not suffer from excessive moisture. The essence of the drainage layer is that it absorbs excess moisture, which can harm the plant.

Feeding

Fuchsia will develop correctly only if the soil mixture contains a sufficient amount of humus and useful fertilizers. Therefore, it is very important to make sure that you have applied a sufficient amount of phosphorus fertilizers to the ground before planting the plant in open soil. But it doesn't end there.

During the important period of the plant, namely flowering, it is extremely necessary to feed the fuchsia about two times so that the plant does not wither.

Trimming

Pruning is carried out at the end of winter - beginning of spring. It is very important to remove the bottom 2/3 of the plant. This includes dead and diseased parts of the fuchsia. Pruning will significantly rejuvenate the plant and promote abundant flowering in summer and autumn. Trimming rules:

Twelve hours before pruning, water the plant.
Remove all bad branches. That is, damaged or dead, thin or intersecting.
Cut back damaged or weak branches almost all the way to the stem.
Trim vertical branches.
Prune healthy branches. The result should be a branch with three buds.
Remove all old leaves.

How to prune fuchsias after winter: video

Garter

To make the fuchsia bush beautiful, its central part can be tied to small pegs and left to grow further, periodically cutting off the side shoots.