Recently, new types of orchids, including Cattleya, are increasingly appearing on store shelves. They differ from Phalaenopsis in that they belong to sympodial types of orchids. This means that she has not one growth point, but many. A stem - a rhizome - spreads along the ground, from which roots grow downwards, and pseudobulbs (bulbs, tuberidia, tubera) grow upwards. Today I will share with you my experience of transplanting cattleya and dividing it.
Over the years, orchids outgrow the pot and require replanting.
The photograph shows that Cattleya’s rhizome “stepped” over the edge of the pot, and the roots began to entwine it from the outside. On the one hand, you can simply transfer the orchid into a large container. On the other hand, the plant requires:
- substrate replacement;
- pruning rotten roots;
- removal of old dry pseudobulbs.
In addition, the orchid needs to be divided into several bushes.
Important! In order for the plant to adapt faster, each division must have at least 3 tubers.
What does the Cattleya orchid look like and where does it come from?
Cattleya belongs to the multi-species Orchidaceae family. The plant received its name in honor of the British botanist and gardener William Cattley (or Cattleya), who in 1818 first made these orchids bloom in climatic conditions radically different from their native South and Central American tropics. The plant appeared in Europe a year earlier thanks to the efforts of American flora researcher William Swainson and created a real sensation.
The name Cattleya came into use after John Lindley published his book An Anthology of Botany (essentially a description of exotic plants) in 1821, which detailed Cattleya's successes.
In nature, the Cattleya orchid most often settles on trees, using them as a support.
In nature, the habitats of the Cattleya orchid are areas with different altitudes above sea level, climatic and weather conditions. Therefore, the plants bear little resemblance to each other. There are cattleya epiphytes and lithophytes, the flower diameter varies from 5 to 25 cm (by the way, the buds of natural orchids are even larger than those of selection hybrids).
Without knowledge of the structure of an orchid, it is impossible to properly care for the flower.
The aroma is subtle, similar to the smell of lily of the valley, lily (some breeding hybrids lack it). One flower lasts 3–4 weeks, they bloom sequentially. Most cattleyas bloom in autumn or winter.
The structure of the flower is typical for Orchids. It consists of three bright sepals and three larger petals, the middle of which (of a contrasting tone) is very elongated, resembling a protruding lip or funnel. Its edge is scalloped. This structure is due to the fact that orchids are pollinated by hummingbirds. The middle petal is a kind of “landing platform” for them.
The structure of an orchid flower is due to the fact that they are pollinated by hummingbirds
Cattleya constantly forms new shoots, so it grows greatly in width. The stem of the plant is a so-called tuberidium with 2-3 internodes, popularly called “pseudobulb”. It is quite thick, where the orchid stores moisture and nutrients absorbed by aerial roots. The shape of the stem is similar to a spindle slightly flattened along the vertical axis. In nature, the height of plants can reach 1.5 m, at home - 30–45 cm.
Orchid pseudobulbs are used to store moisture and nutrients.
The leaves are hard and smooth. There are rarely more than two leaf blades on a pseudobulb. The roots of the orchid are clearly recognizable - thick, but fragile, smooth, they are covered with a layer of special fabric that absorbs moisture (velomen).
Cattleya fell in love with European flower growers immediately and forever, not least due to its ability to interspecies crossing. The first hybrids bred were named in honor of the most revered saints and Christian holidays.
What varieties can be grown at home?
There are about 65 cattleyas found in nature, but there are incomparably more breeding hybrids. Any gardener will find a shade to his liking, but so far it has not been possible to produce only pure black and bright blue flowers.
Cattleyas growing in natural conditions:
- Two-color (bicolor). Plant height is 50–60 cm. The shoots are relatively thin. On each peduncle there is one flower with a diameter of 8–10 cm.
- Bowringiana. At home, it rarely grows above 35 cm. Flower diameter is 5–7 cm. There are up to 20 flowers in one inflorescence. After autumn flowering it needs a short period of rest.
- Forbes (forbesii). A miniature plant, no higher than 20 cm (usually 10–15 cm). The flowers are about 5 cm in diameter (there are 4–6 of them in an inflorescence), bloom during the summer for 10–15 days. The most unpretentious among cattleyas, but also one of the least decorative.
- Lipped (labiata). Petals are corrugated. The diameter of the flower is 15 cm, there are 2–3 of them in the inflorescence. Pseudobulbs are flat, covered with olive scales. The leaves, which are quite wide for cattleyas, are shallowly cut in two at the top. The main material for the creativity of breeders.
- Warshewicz or giant (warscewiczii). Height - 30–40 cm. The flowers are very large (25–30 cm), with a pronounced aroma, collected several times in racemes. Very whimsical, with rare exceptions, “in captivity” it blooms only in greenhouses and greenhouses.
- Orange-red (aurantiaca). Height - up to 40 cm. Shoots are covered with whitish scales. The height of the peduncle is no more than 20 cm. The diameter of the flower is 35 cm, there are 4–10 of them in the inflorescence.
- Ekland or Lady Ekland (aclandiae). A miniature epiphyte up to 15 cm high. Flower diameter is up to 10 cm. There are no more than two of them on one peduncle.
- Dow (dowiana). Sometimes it is not quite correctly called “doviana”. A very large lip, covered with thick fringe. Height - no more than 20 cm. Flower diameter - 15 cm. Widely used in breeding.
- Mossy (mossiae). An endemic species found exclusively in Venezuela. The national flower of this state. Height - up to 30 cm. In the inflorescence there are 7 flowers with a diameter of up to 15 cm. The petals are strongly fringed.
- Skinner (skinneri). The national flower of Costa Rica, although it grows not only there. The pseudobulbs are thick, 25–30 cm high. The diameter of the flower is 6–8 cm, there are 10–12 of them in the inflorescence.
- Trianae. In one inflorescence, the color of the petals can vary from almost white to deep purple. There is always a saffron-colored spot in the center of the lip. “Parent” of many breeding hybrids.
- Percival (percivaliana). Height - up to 15 cm. Peduncle length - up to 25 cm. Inflorescence has 2-4 flowers with a diameter of 10-12 cm. Blooms in mid-winter.
- Granular (granulose). Very unusual flowers, as if made of wax. Inflorescences are racemose, with 5–9 flowers.
Photo gallery: Cattleyas found in nature
Cattleya bicolor is distinguished by very fleshy petals, the edges of which do not curl.
Cattleya Bowringa - very bright lilac orchids (a characteristic feature is a bright yellow spot on the lip)
Cattleya Forbes - pastel pink or white lip stands out effectively against the background of discreet yellowish-beige petals
Cattleya lipped - the flowers shimmer in different shades of pink, lilac and purple
Cattleya Varshevich - pastel, lilac petals, lip, on the contrary, rich amestic
Cattleya orange-red with flame-colored petals
Cattleya Ekland - petals are yellowish-beige, with chocolate spots; the lips change shades from pale pink to purple
In Cattleya Dow, the color of the petals varies from cream to golden with a slight red undertone; the lip seems to be velvety, bright scarlet, with yellowish veins
Cattleya Mossi - very delicate white or pastel pink petals and a large lip with purple spots and a yellow base
Skinner's Cattleya is similar to Bowring's Cattleya, but unlike it, it blooms in spring
Cattleya triana - this chameleon plant is highly valued by breeders
Cattleya Percival - petals are almost white, the lip is darker, with a pinkish border along the edge and a saffron base
The olive green petals of Cattleya granulosa would be almost invisible if not for the bright crimson spots on the lip
It is impossible to list all breeding hybrids of cattleyas.
Photo gallery: results of the work of breeders
Cattleya Eclipse - very large, dark crimson or purple flowers
The hybrid Margaret Degenhardt Saturn has petals painted in different shades of yellow, soft pink and lilac, smoothly blending into each other, it looks like a sunset in the tropics (blooms twice a year)
Earl Imperialis is a very popular and relatively unpretentious snow-white orchid with ruffled petals and a lip.
Cattleya Miyuki Little King is distinguished by its growth rate and inflorescences similar to clusters Cattleya Luteous Forb - a miniature fragrant hybrid with petals of an unusual lime color
The Chocolate Drop hybrid has petals of an interesting raspberry-chocolate color (flower height - up to 40 cm, flower diameter - 4-5 cm) Cattleya Summer Stars are the favorite flowers of brides, rivaling the whiteness of the dress
Detailed description
Cattleya is one of the most beautiful types of orchids. The flowers vary in size, from very small to large, and their colors range from white to dark purple. They also have what is called a "lip", which is a different color from the petals of the flower. Very often this species is distinguished by its incredible aroma.
Externally, orchids are thickened in the central part of the plant with pseudobulbs more than 15 cm. The leaves of this flower are large, reaching a length of 30 cm. Due to the different number of leaves, this orchid is divided into two types: unifoliate and bifolia.
In flower shops you can buy hybrid Cattleyas, which are conventionally divided into spring and autumn. This division depends on the flowering time of the plant. Also, hybrid types of orchids are more adapted to homemade ones.
In flower shops you can buy hybrid Cattleyas, which are conventionally divided into spring and autumn. This division depends on the flowering time of the plant. Also, hybrid types of orchids are more adapted to homemade ones.
Cattleya's homeland is South and Central America. At the beginning of the 19th century, the flower was first discovered by Europeans and quickly gained popularity. There are about 65 species of this species in the living environment. They are classified as epiphytic because they mostly grow on the surface of trees and sometimes they are found in mountainous areas.
From the video you can see the description of the Cattleya orchid:
Table: suitable conditions for growing Cattleya orchids (temperature and more)
| Factor | Recommendations |
| Location | Window sill facing south, southeast, southwest. In summer you can display it on a loggia or a closed veranda. |
| Lighting | Bright light, daylight hours at least 12 hours (8:00–20:00). Shading is not necessary if the sun's rays hit the plants in the mornings or evenings. For additional illumination, use only special phytolamps (any other lamps will give the leaves a purple tint). But there are also shade-tolerant hybrids - focus on the healthy bright green color of the leaves. You cannot change the light level suddenly. |
| Temperature | During the active growing season - 22–30ºС. The required difference during the day is about 7ºС (at night in the summer, open the windows, but avoid drafts). This is a necessary condition for flowering, determined by the specifics of the natural habitat. During the winter holidays - 12–15ºС. Below 5ºС and above 40ºС is dangerous for the life of an orchid. |
| Air humidity | The optimal value is 60–80%. The hotter it is outside, the higher it should be. In extreme heat, you can place a container of water nearby or cover the soil with damp moss, expanded clay, or peat. It is better to spray (only in the warm season) the surrounding air, creating a suspension of tiny droplets. Getting water on pseudobulbs, peduncles, and flowers is not recommended. |
The brighter the color of the petals and the larger the flower, the more natural light the cattleya needs to bloom. The hybrids collectively known as Potinara tolerate shade best. Accordingly, the conditions of keeping for different types of cattleya vary greatly. Therefore, it is advisable to know exactly the name of the variety.
Proper plant transplantation and subsequent care
Cattleyas vitally need good aeration, so the more drainage holes in the pot and the looser the soil, the better. The soil can be purchased at specialized stores or mixed yourself.
Orchids do not like frequent transplants. One procedure every 2-3 years is quite enough. If the roots are sticking out of the drainage holes, you need to take a larger pot. Obviously sour, sagging and moldy soil is enough to completely change, while sterilizing the pot.
Cattleya cannot be removed from the pot unless the substrate is thoroughly wetted first.
Orchids prefer special soil:
- crushed sphagnum moss and wet tree bark (1:1);
- peat chips, small pieces of charcoal, sphagnum moss, powdered tree bark (1:1:1:1);
- land from under coniferous trees; crushed pine or spruce bark and cones, finely chopped fern rhizomes, peat (2:2:1:3).
The soil for the Cattleya orchid bears little resemblance to soil in the usual sense of the word.
Transplanting a Cattleya orchid is a simple procedure. The best time for it is the very beginning of the active growing season (new shoots reach a height of 2–3 cm). Procedure steps:
- Place a layer of drainage at least 3 cm thick on the bottom of the pot. Approximately the same amount of substrate on top.
- Remove the flower from the old pot and shake off the soil from the roots. It is impossible to remove cattleyas from the container without preliminary abundant watering, especially if the pot is ceramic.
- Using a sharp knife, cut off all dried pseudobulbs, rotten roots, and other parts of the plant damaged by diseases and pests. Sprinkle all sections with crushed chalk, wood ash, and activated carbon powder.
- Replant the plant, leaving the base of the rhizome on the surface. You may need support for a while. Add substrate to the edges of the pot.
- Protect the flower from direct sunlight for 3-4 days and do not water it. Then return to your usual place and resume care.
When transplanting cattleyas, be sure to cut off all dry and/or diseased roots.
Video: how to properly transplant cattleyas
How to care for a flower?
Important points in caring for a Cattleya orchid are watering and fertilizing.
Watering
Cattleya roots should dry out completely between waterings. Therefore, it is enough to place the pot once every 5-7 days for 30-45 minutes in a container with water at room temperature, which should not touch the leaves and pseudobulbs. Watering frequency is adjusted depending on the time of year and weather. From the moment the peduncle appears, the orchid needs more water.
Cattleyas, like any inhabitants of the tropics, love water very much, but only warm and soft
The plant also needs regular washing of the substrate (5-10 minutes under running warm water every month). This prevents soil salinization. Drops of water that fall on the leaves during the process are wiped off as quickly as possible.
Fertilizer application
Cattleyas need feeding most of all at the beginning of the active growing season. Use special products for orchids or universal fertilizers for flowering indoor plants in the minimum dosage (a quarter of the recommended). Add fertilizer to your watering water weekly. If it is not specifically intended for orchids, before doing this, soak the flower for 1–1.5 hours in plain water.
When pseudobulbs stop growing, nitrogen-containing fertilizing is stopped. From the moment the peduncle is formed until the beginning of flowering, cattleyas are fed with products with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.
You need to know exactly when and what kind of feeding the Cattleya orchid needs
Rest period
The dormant period for most orchids occurs in late autumn and winter. “Resting” cattleyas are watered approximately once every 10–14 days, no fertilizing is applied, and showering is stopped. Diffused light and keeping it in a cool room are important.
The lower the temperature, the worse the roots absorb water. But you also can’t let the pseudobulbs dry out and shrivel.
It is advisable to move the resting cattleya closer to the window - the winter sun is not so active
Bloom
It is immediately worth noting that only adult orchids bloom. Therefore, the purchased flower must have at least 4 pseudobulbs, shiny leaves of an even tone, smooth thick roots and remnants of last year’s flower stalks. Ideally, you need to buy a blooming orchid.
It is easiest to achieve flowering from hybrid cattleyas from the Potinara group of varieties or miniature two-leaved species. They often bloom not once, but 2-3 times a year. The most capricious are large-flowered orchids that do not have a precisely defined flowering period. About 4 months pass from the formation of a flower bud to the appearance of a peduncle. You can “help” the plant a little by cutting off the top of the “case” in which the buds are hidden. To prolong flowering as much as possible, placing the plant with its buds in full bloom and gaining a rich tone in light partial shade.
After the petals fall, cut the peduncle slightly diagonally, leaving a “stump” 1–2 cm high. Sprinkle the cut with wood ash, colloidal sulfur, and lubricate it with brilliant green or iodine. Observe the flower for a while to make sure there are no signs of rot.
Video: how to make a Cattleya orchid bloom
Air humidity
In nature, Cattleya orchids grow in tropical forests on tree branches and on mossy stones around ponds, so they are accustomed to high air humidity, especially lithophytes. After the end of the rainy season, humidity decreases, but does not fall below 35%.
In greenhouses it is possible to maintain high values of up to 70%, but in apartments and houses this is problematic.
You can increase air humidity by placing the plant on pallets with wet expanded clay, but, as practice has shown, its values will not exceed 45%. Or use humidifiers.
Nevertheless, this value is quite enough for the comfortable existence of orchids.
Table: how the Cattleya orchid reacts to the grower’s mistakes
| What does the plant look like? | What is the reason? |
| The peduncle dries before it has time to release buds. | Cattleya does not have enough moisture, light or fertilizing is applied too rarely. |
| Leaves and pseudobulbs turn yellow. | The plant received sunburn. |
| The leaves change color to dark green, become softer, and droop. | The orchid does not have enough light. |
| The tips and edges of the leaves turn brown and dry out. | The room is too hot. |
| Peduncles do not develop, only new shoots appear. | Either the orchid is too young to bloom (3 pseudobulbs or less) or the plant is not watered correctly. |
| The bases of the pseudobulbs turn black, as if they are getting wet. | The development of rot is most often associated with excessive watering. The situation is aggravated by low temperatures and/or cold drafts. |
The Cattleya orchid reacts to unsuitable conditions and care by deteriorating its appearance.
Features of cultivation
If you decide to decorate your home with cattleya, then you need to take into account that it requires good care and special growing conditions. Many flower growers complain that this orchid does not bloom, and among them there are both beginners and those who have been growing flowers for several years. This is due to the fact that flowers appear only on an adult, healthy and strong bush that has enough strength to bloom. If you wish, you can check whether it is worth expecting that your orchid will begin to bloom in the near future. The bush will bloom this season if:
- you purchased a whole bush with living roots, which already has flowers;
- the bush or division has at least four bulbs and living roots, and there must be some trace of the fact that the plant already had flowers.
In other cases, cattleya may or may not bloom in the current season. In order for a flower to develop and grow within normal limits, you need to pay attention to 4 conditions:
- direct sunlight is required;
- it is important to feed and water it correctly;
- when preparing a bush for flowering, be sure to provide it with a difference in night and day temperatures within 5–7 degrees;
- During the dormant period, the plant needs to be provided with optimal conditions.
Cattleya orchid. Acquaintance ))
Table: diseases and pests of the Cattleya orchid
| Disease or pest | How does it manifest? | Treatment |
| Root rot |
|
|
| Gray rot |
|
|
| Mosaic disease | leaves covered with yellowish spots in the form of concentric circles or thin stripes | Destruction of the plant (it cannot be cured). |
| Mealybug |
|
|
| Shchitovka | Brown or grayish "growths". |
|
| Thrips | Small black dots and brownish spots on the leaves. |
|
What diseases and pests will you have to fight when growing cattleyas - photo
Root rot completely destroys the orchid's root system
Leaves and pseudobulbs affected by gray rot seem to become wet from the inside
There are no folk remedies or chemicals that destroy the mosaic disease virus yet
Simultaneously with the appearance of the mealybug, the orchid leaves become sticky
The durable shell of the scale insect protects it from many insecticides and any folk remedies
Small black dots and brownish spots on the leaves are signs of thrips.
How to save an orchid that has lost its roots - secrets of resuscitation
Immerse the bases of the pseudobulbs in water at room temperature for 2 hours every day. When growth buds appear, stop the procedure. Plant an orchid that has grown at least 3 roots 5–6 cm long in a mixture of finely chopped moss and pine bark with pieces of charcoal. The pot should be tall and narrow. The easiest time to “save” a plant is from early spring to mid-autumn. At this time, there is suitable lighting and a fairly high temperature.
Do not rush to throw away a Cattleya orchid that has lost its roots
You can place the damaged Cattleya orchid in a mini-greenhouse, providing a temperature of about 25 ºС and bright, diffused light. A layer of drainage is placed on the bottom, and crushed sphagnum moss is placed on top.
Some gardeners recommend “shock therapy”. Leave the plant without watering or spraying for several weeks. In search of moisture, it should theoretically send out roots.
Important Details
Cattleya orchid without roots.
Improper orchid care (poor lighting, low temperature, high humidity), fungal, bacterial infections, old age - lead to lost roots. In this case, a procedure called Cattleya resuscitation is performed. During this process, the most favorable conditions are created in which new roots and root systems develop.
Important! New roots, even if all resuscitation conditions are met, will appear only from new shoots.
New shoots, in turn, appear only from specific buds. Therefore, the first thing that is important to do for the accuracy and success of the procedure is to find the right kidneys.
Important! It is necessary to check and make sure that the kidneys are alive.
How does a flower reproduce?
At home, the only way to get a new Cattleya orchid is by dividing an adult plant. The procedure is carried out simultaneously with the transplant; the selected specimen must have at least six pseudobulbs.
The division of the Cattleya orchid is carried out in such a way as to cause minimal damage to the plant.
- Remove the flower from the pot and place the earthen ball in a container of water for half an hour.
- Carefully rinse the substrate, untangle the roots (directly in water), cut off the dried and rotted ones.
- Using a sharp knife, divide the rhizome so that each part has at least 3 pseudobulbs and a growing point. Be sure to disinfect the tool before use and sprinkle the cuts made with crushed chalk, colloidal sulfur, activated carbon powder, or at least cinnamon.
- Plant the plants in small pots, preferably transparent. This makes it easier to notice the development of rot in time. A drainage layer is required. The substrate is moss and pieces of bark.
- Place in partial shade for 3-4 days, do not water. Ensure the temperature is about 25ºC and free of drafts. Then care is usual.
Reproduction
Cattleyas are propagated vegetatively. They are propagated by seeds only by specialists in laboratory or greenhouse conditions. At home, flower growers obtain new specimens by dividing an adult orchid.
In the photo: Cattleya breeding
Only a large specimen with at least 4 pseudobulbs is suitable for reproduction. Before flowering begins, the rhizome must be divided into parts with a sharp, disinfected knife, each of which should have 1 bulb. The sections are sprinkled with charcoal powder. The parts are planted in separate pots.
