Cordyline is a beautiful plant with decorative leaves belonging to the Agave family and to the category of false palms.
Homeland - tropical forests of Asia, Australia, Africa and the Americas. Under natural conditions, the species reaches a height of 2 to 10 meters, and in a pot it rarely reaches 150 cm.
At home, a flower will live for a very long time, as long as it has enough space and light. Sometimes some types of cordyline are called dracaena.
Description of the appearance and origin of Cordyline
The proud-sounding name cordilina, in fact, is translated from Greek very prosaically - knot. But the plant itself looks very elegant thanks to its lush, brightly colored leaves.
Cordyline can be found in nature in both hemispheres. But to be more precise, only in tropical and subtropical climate zones. Asia, Australia, New Zealand and Brazil - in these countries, cordyline grows in the form of spreading trees, reaching large heights - up to 15 m.
The tropical resident cordyline is found in both hemispheres
Cordyline is classified as a false palm and is often confused with dracaena. And although these 2 plants are very close to each other, there are differences.
- Cordyline leaves have a petiole, which is absent in dracaena.
- The structure of the roots also varies. The root system of Cordyline is covered with nodes and swellings (which is why the plant got its name), and is white when cut. Dracaena has straight roots, and the cut is yellow or orange.
- And perhaps the main difference is the number of seeds. Cordyline fruit has from 4 to 20 seeds. Dracaena has only one thing.
Dracaena and Cordyline are close relatives
In indoor floriculture, cordyline is a bush-like plant that grows up to a meter in height. Of course, Cordyline is rather large in size, so it needs sufficient space. In a greenhouse, it can easily overcome the 1.5 meter bar.
The leaves of the plant differ in size and color. Depending on the type, the leaf blade can be narrow linear, broadly lanceolate or saber-shaped. The length varies from a few centimeters to a meter. The edge of the leaf can be completely smooth or have fine jagged edges. The main background of the sheet is green. And then nature begins to fantasize, applying stripes and strokes of yellow, red, pink and purple to the surface. White color looks very elegant.
The bright leaves of Cordyline are the main decoration of the plant, but their shape and color depend on the type and variety.
The plant blooms very interestingly. The inflorescences are large and dense panicles, the length of which can reach up to 1 m. Small flowers are painted creamy white, red or purple. In home floriculture, cordyline is grown as an ornamental foliage plant, because it practically does not bloom in the room.
In nature, cordyline blooms at the age of 8–11 years.
Long ago, James Cook called Cordyline the cabbage tree. It turns out that the local population actively used the young leaves of the plant for food. Old fibrous leaves are used to weave mats, rugs, and make brushes.
Cordyline is considered a rather unpretentious green pet. People who are just thinking about growing flowers may well purchase this plant in order to learn the basics of indoor floriculture with its help. Cordilina will easily forgive some mistakes and shortcomings that were made by accident, but quickly eliminated. But if you forget about the flower for a long time, it may die.
Growing cordyline is not difficult, the main thing is not to forget about it for a long time
How to propagate cordyline by dividing the rhizome
How to divide cordyline rhizome photo
Rhizome division is carried out during transplantation. Remove the plant from the pot, wash the roots and cut them into pieces with a disinfected knife, treat the sections with phytosporin solution. Root in a light substrate. To ensure the rooting process is successful, cover the pot with plantings with a bag and ventilate regularly. In a month, new roots will appear and the divisions can be considered independent bushes.
Types and varieties
There are more than 15 species of cordyline found in nature, but not all of them are suitable for growing at home. Breeders, based on the most adapted ones, have bred a sufficient number of varieties that get along quite well in the microclimate of an ordinary apartment.
Varieties common in indoor floriculture - table
Types and varieties | Description |
Cordyline southern or Australian | In nature it reaches 12 m in height and resembles a palm tree in appearance. The leaves, similar to narrow swords, reaching 90 cm in length and 7 cm in width, are collected at the top of the plant in the form of a bunch. Meter-long paniculate inflorescences consist of white fragrant flowers. |
Cordilina Tricolor | A variety of cordyline apex. The leaves have a wonderful tri-color color, combining cream, green and pink. |
Cordyline straight or compressed | It has a tall, straight stem, reaching 3 m in height, covered at the bottom with the remains of dying leaves. The linear or lanceolate leaf blade has slightly jagged edges and is green or purple in color. Leaf length 60 cm, width 3 cm. Loves cool rooms. |
Cordyline fruticosa, bushy or apical | The trunk, thin up to 1.5 cm in diameter, sometimes has branches. The leaf shape is lanceolate, length 50 cm, width 10 cm. The petiole is grooved, its length is 15 cm. Veins stand out on the leaf plate. In nature, fruticose is colored green, but various varieties are much brighter. The leaves have stripes of various colors - crimson, red-brown, purple, light pink. The inflorescence is a loose panicle. |
Cordilina Kiwi | Bushy lush plant. Dark green leaves with longitudinal yellowish stripes, 8 cm wide, have a crimson border. |
Cordyline rubra or red | Cultivated as a valuable ornamental plant, it is called palm lily. Bush form, not exceeding 4 m in height. Leaves are leathery, slightly concave, lanceolate, up to 50 cm long and up to 4.5 cm wide. The color of the leaf blade is dark green with a hint of red. Blooms in summer with lilac flowers. |
Cordilina purpul compacta | This is a miniature variety that has lush foliage colored purple-green. The stem is small but strong. |
Cordilina chocolate queen | A very exquisite plant. The leaves are wide and elongated, painted with stripes of white, chocolate, lilac and several shades of green. |
Cordilina snow | White stripes and streaks add sophistication to the green leaves of this variety. |
Cordilina mix | This is not the name of a single variety, but of different types and varieties collected on one pallet, united by one name, which denotes a mixture of something. |
Magnificent types and varieties of Cordyline in the photo
Cordilina mix
Cordyline Lord Roberts
Cordilina chocolate queen
Cordilina purple compacta
Cordyline rubra or red
Cordilina kiwi
Cordyline fruticosa, bushy or apical
Cordyline straight or compressed
Cordilina tricolor
Cordyline southern or Australian
"Top"
The most popular of the twenty species of cordyline is the apical cordyline. This is a beautiful tree with wide leaves that cover the trunk and top. Their height varies from fifty to eighty centimeters, their width is ten centimeters. A vein is visible in the thick central part. The inflorescences look like white and purple flowers with a diameter of up to one centimeter. Popular varieties of cordyline "apical" are:
- “Red Edge” - not very large leaves with a red rim;
- “tricolor” - the leaves are colored with pink, brown and yellow stripes;
- “Augusta” - dark green leaves covered with crimson stripes;
- “kiwi” - wide leaves are covered with crimson streaks.
Seasonal conditions
By maintaining certain conditions, you will help the plant adapt to the atmosphere of the room and express itself in all its glory.
An unpretentious plant is Tradescantia. You can learn about the rules for caring for it from the material:
How to grow at home depending on the season - table
Season | Temperature | Lighting | Humidity |
Spring | Cordyline, as a representative of the tropics, loves warmth and does not react well to sudden temperature changes. In summer, the plant is comfortable at a temperature of 22 – 25°C. But with proper care, it can tolerate an increase to 30°C. Cordilina will not refuse to spend the summer in the garden, on the terrace or balcony. But it needs to be hidden from drafts and protected from direct sun. | Many people believe that Cordyline can tolerate shade. This is wrong. The plant loves bright places, but midday rays should be avoided. The amount of light also depends on the color of the leaves. The brighter the foliage, the brighter the area should be. East and west directions are ideal for placing a flower. In the south, light shading is necessary. | In the tropics, the climate is mostly humid. Therefore, even when growing indoors, Cordyline must be kept at a medium level of humidity at all times. In the summer, it is necessary to spray the leaves with a spray bottle and use a damp cloth or shower to wash off the dust from them. If the temperature is within normal limits, you can spray 2–3 times a week. If it gets hot, the frequency of moisturizing increases. Spray only with soft, settled water, otherwise the beauty of the leaves will be spoiled by ugly stains. |
Summer | |||
Autumn | In winter, it is advisable to lower the temperature to 10 – 13°C. Cordyline will be able to withstand a slight drop in temperature, but in this case soil moisture must be stopped. But some species even in winter prefer that the thermometer does not fall below 20°C. | In winter, Cordyline is not specially illuminated, but it makes sense to place the plant closer to the window. | In winter, it is necessary to keep the plant as far as possible from hot radiators. Or place a container of water next to it to maintain the necessary humidity around the flower. |
Winter |
In summer, cordyline should be taken out into the air and sprayed more often.
Is it possible to grow cordyline in a florarium?
Of course, it is possible, since cordyline tolerates humid air very well. But the dimensions of the vessel must be rather large. The plant is not suitable for a traditional garden in a bottle, but in an open aquarium or in a display-type florarium, Cordyline will perfectly coexist with other plants.
Cordilina is a very friendly neighbor, so it is often used in florariums
Planting and transplanting
For young plants, replanting should be done every year. Mature plants do not have a high growth rate, so they are replanted as the roots take over the space of the pot. This usually happens 3 years after planting. The procedure is carried out only in the spring, in March - April.
Cordyline is often grown as a pot plant, which makes replanting very difficult. In this case, every spring you need to replace the top layer of soil with a fresh one. It is also necessary to periodically loosen the soil so that the roots are supplied with oxygen.
The soil for cordyline should be loose and nutritious. A purchased universal soil with a slightly acidic reaction is quite suitable. You can prepare the soil mixture yourself. To do this, you need to combine and mix thoroughly the following ingredients, taken in equal quantities:
- humus;
- leaf soil;
- peat;
- coarse sand.
Add brick chips and pieces of charcoal to the finished mixture. These components will help avoid acidification of the soil and give it greater looseness.
The pot is selected based on the size of the cordyline. For large specimens, stable clay containers are suitable, for smaller plants - plastic pots. Drainage holes are required! The size of the pot should be larger than the previous one, given the fact that an adult plant rarely needs replanting. But you shouldn’t think that the volume of the new container is too large - it’s good, it’s not so. Mastering a large pot of cordiline will be to the detriment of the leaves. And the liquid will often stagnate in the roots, which should not be allowed.
A clay pot is suitable for planting large specimens
Step-by-step transplantation of a flower into new soil
- Pour drainage and prepared soil mixture into the prepared pot.
- Carefully remove the cordyline from the pot and lightly shake off the old soil. There is no need to forcefully remove the roots from the soil.
You should not forcefully shake off soil from the roots of Cordyline.
- Place the flower in a new pot, add substrate to the sides and lightly compact it.
- We water, wait until the water completely saturates the soil and drain the leaked liquid from the pan.
- We place the cordyline in diffused bright light.
If you purchased Cordyline in a store and want to replant it, give it a week and a half to acclimatize. After this, transfer it to a new pot, filling the resulting voids on the sides of the container with a nutrient substrate. And next spring you can do a full transplant with replacement of the substrate.
Do I need support for Cordyline?
Typically, cordyline does not need support, as it has a very strong stem. But if for some reason the plant’s stem is very thin and, moreover, bare, then it is quite acceptable to tie it to a support. It can be a simple bamboo stick.
Cordyline has a stable stem and does not need support
Reproduction
The plant propagates by seeds or vegetatively. In apartment conditions, propagation by seeds is not effective , since new plants do not retain the characteristics of the mother plant.
When grown from seeds, they are sown in spring in moist soil made up of equal parts sand and peat. Seed the seeds to a depth of 1 cm. After this, the pot is covered with film. Sprouts appear after 2 weeks. Planting of seedlings into separate pots is carried out in the phase of 4 true leaves.
A simpler and more effective method of propagation is by planting basal children , which are produced abundantly under good conditions. The shoot is cut off with part of the root and, after sprinkling the wound with activated carbon, it is planted in a pot with light, fertile soil. There is no need to cover the plant.
If a shoot is accidentally broken off from a plant, you can try to root it if desired. This method should not be used as a method of planned reproduction. The broken part is cut off evenly and placed in a jar of water, which is covered with a dark film (the plant will not take root in the light).
It is optimal to add a little substance to the water that promotes root formation. As soon as the shoot forms a high-quality root, it is planted in soil suitable for the plant.
In this video, an amateur gardener shares his experience of cuttings and care:
Care
No matter how unpretentious Cordyline is, it needs to be provided with proper care.
How to water and feed
Spring and summer watering of cordilina is abundant; the soil should be in a slightly moist (but not waterlogged) state. Water should not stagnate in the pan. Before the next moistening, the top layer of the soil mixture must dry 3 cm deep. An approximate watering schedule during this period is 2 – 3 times a week. But it is worth making a correction, taking into account the temperature and humidity level. In addition, you need to take into account the shape of the cordyline leaf. Species with wide leaves need more frequent watering, as they evaporate moisture faster than narrow-leaved ones.
In winter, cordyline is watered less often - about once a week. If the plant overwinters in cool conditions, soil moisture control must be kept under strict control.
Cordyline is fed all year round. Only the frequency of fertilization changes. Between April and September, when active growth occurs, the flower is fertilized 3 to 4 times a month. From October to March, feed the plant once a month. As a fertilizer, universal fertilizers for decorative foliage are used, preferably in liquid form.
Cordyline, which receives enough moisture and nutrition, pleases with bright colors
How to care during the flowering period
Cordyline blooms only in nature. This happens between the ages of 8 and 11 years. Flowers adapted for home cultivation do this extremely rarely, and then only in a botanical garden or greenhouse, if comfortable conditions close to natural ones have been created.
At home, cordyline flowering occurs very rarely.
Rest period
In order for Cordyline to accumulate strength for active growth in the new season, it needs peace. The exotic plant rests in the autumn-winter period, and you should not disturb it at this time. The air temperature drops, the frequency of watering is reduced, but you need to feed occasionally.
The location should be bright, but cordilina does not need special additional lighting.
Cordyline's dormant period takes place in a cool and bright place
Does Cordyline need pruning or pinching?
As such, both Cordyline procedures are not necessary. After all, the plant grows slowly and does not branch. But to maintain an attractive appearance, you need to remove the dried lower leaves using sharp scissors. And for an old plant, pruning is a way of rejuvenation and the opportunity to get a new plant by rooting the top.
Pruning a domestic palm tree
Removing weak and diseased shoots contributes to the rejuvenation and formation of the plant . Thanks to pruning, the lateral buds begin to grow, and the cordyline creates a dense leafy crown.
You should take a sharp and clean knife and trim the top of the bush. It is important that the cut part is no shorter than 6 cm, has leaves and is woody. Then the cut areas must be sprinkled with coal powder. After 14-20 days, fresh shoots will appear at the cutting sites.
The cut top can be rooted in water or a damp mixture of peat and sand, and after the roots appear, plant it in a small pot.
Care errors and what to do to eliminate them
It often happens that, out of ignorance, a novice gardener makes mistakes that lead to the plant losing its attractiveness. If the cordyline looks dull or its leaves are covered in spots, this is a sign that you are doing something wrong.
Why do the leaves of a flower dry out or turn yellow, the plant has faded and other reasons + how to fix it: table
Error | Cause | Elimination |
The leaf blade loses the brightness of its colors and turns pale | Insufficient lighting. | For cordyline, especially with colored leaves, good lighting is very important. Try to move the plant closer to the light. |
Leaves fall and rot | High humidity combined with low air temperature. | If Cordyline is in a cool room during the dormant period, the plant’s moisture needs to be taken under strict control. |
New leaves grow small and often look misshapen | Not enough fertilizer. | Cordyline needs to be fed all year round. More often in summer, less often in winter. |
The edges and tips of the leaves have turned brown |
draft. |
spray, and in winter maintain sufficient air humidity around the plant.
wet condition in summer.
They are especially destructive for young plants. |
Light spots appeared on the leaves, dry to the touch. | The plant was burned from exposure to direct sunlight. | Although the plant is light-loving, direct sun is a threat to it. At noon, the cordyline should be slightly shaded with a light curtain. |
Leaves darken, curl and become soft | Temperature changes: warm during the day, cold at night. | A plant from tropical latitudes cannot tolerate such jumps. Try to provide the plant with a room with a stable temperature. |
Cordyline leaves turn yellow |
|
fertilizers
average indicators. |
The lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, but the plant feels good | This is a normal process for Cordyline. Old leaves die and expose the trunk. | Don't worry if the leaves turn yellow gradually. This is a natural process. |
Brown spots on the surface of the leaf | Insufficient watering. | Try to water the plant according to the rules: generously in summer, significantly reduce watering in winter. |
How Cordyline signals errors in care - photo gallery
Cordyline leaves turn yellow due to lack of nitrogen
Dry tips on cordyline leaves indicate low humidity.
If Cordyline is in a draft, the edges of the leaf turn brown.
Roots on a stem
If you are afraid to cut off the top of a large plant because there are no other shoots for insurance.
You can try propagation by air removal: • The bark is peeled off from the woody stem under the crown - about 2 cm, • The bare area is smeared with root and wrapped with damp sphagnum moss,
• Cellophane is wrapped on top, • Watering is carried out as the moss dries out, it becomes lighter, • The plant is pruned when roots form.
Diseases and pests
Cordyline is one of the plants that are resistant to various diseases and pests. Perhaps the most terrible disease for any plant is root rot. The florist, trying to cheer up the drooping flower, begins to water it abundantly, which ultimately leads to a sad end - the plant dies. A timely identified symptom will help you quickly deal with the problem.
Diseases and pests | Symptoms | Control measures | Prevention |
Root rot |
looks sluggish.
become covered with brown spots and dry out.
| If the disease is not advanced, you can try to save the plant.
inspect the roots and trim the affected areas back to healthy tissue.
finely ground charcoal. Dry for a couple of hours.
substrate. |
priming.
The plant needs to reduce the amount of watering. |
Aphid | Having settled on the reverse side of the leaf, the colony of pests actively drinks the juices of the plant. This leads to discoloration, drying and leaf fall. | For spraying, use Decis, Actellik, Fitoverm or Inta-Vir. If the lesion is severe, the treatment should be repeated no earlier than a week later, changing the product. Use medications only after reading the instructions. |
rinse off under a warm shower.
soaked in a weak solution of laundry soap.
air. |
Thrips | The activity of these pests results in the initial yellowing of the leaf, the appearance of spots and streaks on it, which gradually merge. Then the leaf blade withers and falls off. |
leaves.
pest glue traps.
| |
Shchitovka | The pest, hiding under its shell, feeds on cell sap. As a result, the leaves lighten, dry out and fall off. It is easy to detect by its tubercles and shiny sugary coating. | Treat the plant with a 0.15% Actellik solution (1 – 2 ml per 1 liter of water). Scale insects are a very insidious enemy, so after a week, carefully examine the leaves of the cordyline, and if you find new tubercles, spray again. |
a damp cloth soaked in soapy water. With its help, insects can be easily removed from the leaf.
air was normal, ventilate the room. |
Spider mite | The mite entangles the leaves with a web, along which it moves from leaf to leaf. By making punctures, he sucks out the juice from the plant cells. The leaves become covered with whitish spots, which then merge. The plant weakens, the leaves curl and fall off. | Actellik - 2 ml per 1 liter of water. Spray the plant, preferably in the fresh air or with an open window. |
avoid encounters with spider mites.
in the shower. |
Diseases and pests: learning to identify them in time - photo gallery
Spider mites are easy to detect - they weave webs around the leaves.
If the leaves of the plant are covered with a sweet coating, then the plant is affected by scale insects
Leaf of a plant infected with thrips
Aphids love to settle on young leaves
This is what a plant dying from root rot looks like
Second life of an old plant
The surprise for me was that the old plant very quickly showed signs of life. Already two weeks after pruning, new leaves began to hatch on the “stump,” and a week later a new growth point appeared. By the way, a week after transplanting into the ground, a leaf on the top of the middle shoot also began to hatch.
For myself, I came to the conclusion that cutting cordyline is very simple. If you have such a plant at home, do not be afraid to prune it; you will get young, bright bushes that will delight the eye all year round. Plus, it’s not a shame to give such beauty instead of a bouquet.