Growing roses in Siberia: choosing winter-hardy varieties + rules for planting and care

Some difficulties and pests

Despite its many advantages, there are two difficulties in growing this beautiful liana.
First, and most important: the unbridled growth of the rhizome. If it is allowed to grow on its own, it will turn from a desirable vine into a raging weed that is difficult to control. Therefore, I recommend that you immediately determine clear boundaries that will restrain the rhizome from growing. In this case, I usually bury old buckets without a bottom in the hole or make a perimeter of slate, metal, or other durable base. Work hard once - but then there will be no problems with the aggressiveness of the Siberian rose! The second problem when growing flowering ones is the influx of slugs and snails. For some reason, they really love double calistegia, they crawl and feast on both leaves and flowers. Last summer there were a lot of them, a whole invasion. And this despite the fact that this plant is classified as a poisonous plant. It seems that pests only like such toxicity. Pest control involves periodically treating bushes with pesticides. I don't know, maybe it's just me who has these problems?

Despite the difficulties described above and the periodic “dances with a tambourine” around calistegia, my plans do not include getting rid of it. First of all, this is a beautiful vine that perfectly decorates the not entirely attractive vertical supports. And when she opens soft pink buds, the spectacle (to the envy of her neighbors;)) is most magnificent!

Shelter features

Roses should be covered when the temperature reaches sub-zero temperatures. I cover my flowers on the 10th of October. The procedure cannot be carried out too early, as the buds will wake up and the shoots will begin to grow.

It is important to cover roses when the weather is dry. If it rains constantly, you should wait until the weather improves

Let's consider shelter options.

1. You can build a frame from metal strands, stretch polyethylene or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through it.
2. You can make a house from two wooden boards, put seedlings in it, secure it to the ground with wire and cover it with straw.
3. The standard rose is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches or burlap.

Golden Celebration

This variety of roses was also bred by the tireless David Austin. Golden Celebration is extremely resistant to frost and disease and is only afraid of black spot. Shade tolerance is average.

Double spherical flowers are painted in a beautiful bright yellow color (quite rare for English roses), reminding Siberians of the sun and warmth. The flowers are quite large, their diameter is about 16 cm. The leaves are shiny, light green.

New Dawn (New Dawn)

This climbing rose is highly valued by Siberian gardeners. After all, it is characterized by frost resistance and unpretentiousness to the composition of the soil and the amount of sunlight. Feels great even in hot weather.

The flowers reach 6-7 cm in diameter, they are semi-double, silver-pink in color. The leaves are quite large, green with a shine.

Calistegia. Growing

Do not be afraid to plant this vine; it is not capricious and grows well in almost any conditions.
And if you take a little care of the “Siberian rose”, you will end up with a fast-growing, branched bindweed that will master any support, wall, chain-link fence or stone partitions! So, what does a plant need for a carefree life in our garden? Planting site and soil. The time of the beginning of flowering depends on the choice of location: in a sunny area, the Siberian rose will show itself in all its glory in mid-July; in the shade it will bloom, but, as you understand, the effect will be somewhat worse, and besides, flowering will occur two weeks later.

Any soil will do, but it is better to prepare moderately nutritious, light soil in advance. In such conditions, calistegia will grow for at least ten years. I think it’s okay to try for such a beautiful vine just once?

Watering and fertilizing.

Flowering takes a lot of effort, so make it a rule to regularly apply organic and mineral fertilizers (alternately). Watering is moderate; usually the vines have enough natural precipitation.

Transfer.

Calistegia does not respond well to summer replanting - at this time it is already actively growing green mass and may die. But the autumn transplant is just right for her. The Siberian rose is very convenient because it can grow in one place for 10, 20, and even 30 years. However, before landing, carefully select a place, because the aggressor is still in front of you! Out of inexperience, I placed her in the front garden, so she soon swept up roses, lilies and other flowers. She climbs any elevation, and no ties or directions will save her - she will reach for the sun and overcome everything in her path. If you decide to seclude the vine in some far corner, dig up every single root, be careful: even a small part of such remains will add a lot of trouble in the coming spring.

Reproduction.

Calistegia produces many root shoots. In spring they are visible along the perimeter of the mother bush: carefully dig them up and plant them in the right place, be sure to water them. There are no special recommendations regarding the timing of the reproduction of calistegia; you can dig in the children both in spring and autumn. It’s just that it’s better to cover and mulch the sprouts planted before winter.

Wintering

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The Siberian rose overwinters well; after the first frost, prune the entire bush. You don’t even have to cover it: in my experience there was no freezing or getting wet. Calistegia care
. About once every 7-10 days you will have to pick up scissors and cut off all the dried flowers. It is very good at the moment of flowering, but old buds significantly spoil the appearance of the vine. It is also important to remove weak young shoots in the spring and periodically thin out the bush.

Choosing a location: looking for the sunny side

Due to the fact that spring comes late in Siberia and there are not very many sunny days a year, they try to plant roses on the south side. But a completely open area is not very profitable, since the flowering period is significantly accelerated, and the flowers fade in the heat. It is best to consider light partial shade with the help of sparsely leafed shrubs or trees. Roses are planted near them in such a way that during the hottest time of the day they are protected by the foliage of the “neighbors”.

It is advisable to select high places on the site for the rose garden. There, the degree of soil freezing is always less, which means the roots will wake up faster. This will also save the plant from high humidity, which is typical for lowlands. Too much moisture provokes the development of rot and fungal infections.

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Strong winds are common in Siberia, with cold fronts coming from both the north and the west. From these directions (north, northwest and northeast), roses need protection in the form of buildings, gazebos, coniferous hedges, etc. But the wall should be at such a distance that a shadow is not cast on the bushes.

Material about plants suitable for hedges will also be useful:

Current questions about growing roses in Siberia

Question No. 1. What roses are suitable for growing in a Siberian greenhouse?

Hybrid tea varieties hold up well when cut - Gloria Dei, Black Magic. The flowers of the latter variety remain fresh in a vase for up to 14 days.

Question No. 3. Does the time at which a rose seedling begins to bloom depend on the climate zone?

In this matter, what is fundamentally important is not the climate itself, but the condition of the seedling and the success of its wintering. If the rose has taken root well and overwintered, the plant will begin to bloom in due time.

There are many vines in the world: both flowering and decorative deciduous. Moreover, they not only decorate the designated hedge, but also serve as a living screen. Creepers help decorate an unsightly fence, old mesh or outbuilding. Calistegia terry is just such a “helper” for domestic flower growers: it is unpretentious, looks beautiful all season, and long flowering ends only after frost.

Siberian is their popular name.
It seems to me that this nickname suits them completely: the inflorescences really look like blooming roses, but not so dense, but more fluffy. Calistegia
is also unique in that it blooms already in the first year after planting, and how it blooms: a flower is necessarily formed in each axil of green leaves. Somewhere from mid-July, the vine is completely covered with soft pink, shiny flowers, which do not stop blooming until late autumn. If you look at it from afar, it looks like someone has pasted a lot of small roses among the foliage. People often confuse it with climbing roses and even with clematis - it’s just that terry calistegia is practically never found in our gardens. It is extremely difficult to get planting material in stores, which is another obstacle to a person getting to know this rose.

Planting rules: light soil + depth

For the Siberian climate, spring plantings are desirable, and their period is much shorter than in other areas. The planting season begins in May, when the soil warms up to 10 degrees. Gardeners determine the optimal time for dandelions: as soon as they bloom, it’s time to plant rose bushes. Grafted seedlings are planted first, because rose hips are not afraid of sudden late frosts. Own root roses - no earlier than May 15. The maximum planting date is June 15. If you are late, the rose will not have time to grow stronger during the short summer and will go into the winter without a lignified trunk. This means it will freeze easily.

Siberian rose planting is not much different from other regions. Spiny beauties like slightly acidic soils with a high humus content. The basis of the soil can be loam. When planting, it is good to place it at the bottom of the hole and sprinkle it with rotted horse manure, which will warm the roots. Bushes are not planted directly in manure, so as not to burn the young roots.

The optimal composition of the soil is: 1 part clay + 1 part sand + 3 parts humus + 2 parts peat + 0.5 parts wood ash. It’s not bad if you immediately apply special fertilizer for roses.

Landing rules:

• The depth of the planting hole is at least half a meter.
• Purchased seedlings are dipped in a solution of water with a growth stimulator for 3-4 hours so that they are saturated with moisture.
• Roots that are too long (above 20 cm) are shortened, stimulating the growth of lateral roots.
• Remove paraffin from the aboveground part and lightly trim the branches (to a healthy green color).
• The most important point: slightly recessed landing.

Many gardeners in Siberia have discovered that tea varieties, English varieties and floribundas survive better in frosts if the grafting site is not 5 cm below the soil level, but 7-8 cm, i.e. a little deeper. Accordingly, for climbing roses you need 12-15 cm. Such plantings can be covered less, and some owners even gave up covering altogether, purchasing varieties with high frost resistance.

You can learn more about the features of planting and caring for climbing roses from the material:

When planted in depth, a rose can send out roots above the grafting site, developing its own root system, which is weaker than that of a rose hip, so “wrong” roots must be removed

When planting, the roots of the rose are straightened so that they go only from top to bottom, and are not wrapped in a ring. A planting mound can help with this arrangement: a mound of fertile soil is poured onto the bottom of the hole, a seedling is placed on top of it, the roots are straightened along the mound and sprinkled. When planting a mound, water after the rose is planted. During normal planting, you can first shed the roots and then cover them with soil.

After planting, be sure to hill the bush to a height of 15 cm. This is necessary so that the water does not quickly evaporate. The soil will also protect the tender branches from the scorching sun, because once they take root they dry out very quickly. In the northernmost regions, plantings are covered with lutrasil to protect them from night frosts.