Brassia belongs to the orchid family (Orchidáceae) . In nature, this orchid prefers to grow in the tropical rainforests of America. Because of its unusual but attractive blooms that resemble a centipede insect, it is also called the “spider orchid.”
This orchid is not a demanding species ; its flowering lasts almost all year round. The aroma of flowers is specific, and for some it resembles the smell of vanilla. Most often, you can find Brassia verrucosa in flower shops, this is due to the fact that it is the most undemanding in care.
Brassia maculata. ©Donald Macauley
Features of care
Illumination
This plant loves bright light, but it should be diffused. It is recommended to place such an orchid on the window sills located in the eastern or western part of the room. If the brassia is placed on a south window, it will need some shading. It can only be placed in the northern part of the room in the summer, since in the cold season it will not have enough light, and therefore it will not bloom. Also in winter, the plant needs additional lighting, because it needs at least 10 hours of daylight.
Temperature
The flower feels best at a temperature of 23–25 degrees. But at the same time, even at ordinary room temperature, it grows and blooms well. It can even be grown in a fairly cool room (15 degrees). To stimulate flowering, brassia needs a difference in day and night temperatures, and the difference between them should be approximately 5–6 degrees. Experts also advise that during the ripening of new bulbs (the beginning of their rounding), reduce the temperature during the day to 17 or 18 degrees, which also helps stimulate flowering.
It is best to move the plant to the balcony in the warm season (from May to September). There he will definitely have enough light, and this will also provide the necessary temperature fluctuations.
Humidity
In the wild, this flower grows in tropical rainforests. Therefore, in order for a plant to feel good in indoor conditions, it needs very high air humidity (the higher, the better). Low humidity in winter can greatly harm the plant. During the autumn-winter period, you need to place the brass as far as possible from the heating pipes. It is also recommended to spray the plant as often as possible, and a humidifier can also help.
How to water
In the warm season, it is recommended to water the plant by lowering the flower pot into a bucket filled with water (hold for 20 to 30 minutes). When the pot is pulled out, you need to wait until the excess liquid drains. In winter, water less often, but at the same time make sure that the pseudobulbs do not wrinkle.
Experienced flower growers recommend systematically checking whether flower stalks have formed. After they are discovered, you must not water the brassia for 7 days. The soil in the pot should dry out almost completely. If you continue regular watering, new bulbs will begin to grow instead of flower stalks.
Earth mixture
For planting, a special soil mixture for orchids is used. You can make it yourself by mixing sphagnum moss, pine bark and high-moor peat. It is also recommended to add pieces of charcoal and add more moss.
Features of transplantation
Brassia does not need regular transplants. This procedure should be carried out only when necessary. So, the plant is replanted if it no longer fits in the flower pot, and the bulbs hang over the edge. During transplantation, it should be taken into account that the bulbs grow only from a certain side. Therefore, it is necessary to leave more free space on the desired side. It is recommended to plant the flower deeper. There should be some free space left on top of the pot. The fact is that young bulbs form slightly higher than the old ones, and you will need to add more soil.
Top dressing
It is necessary to fertilize the soil once every 4 weeks in the spring and summer. For this purpose, use fertilizer for orchids and follow the instructions included with it. Fertilizing is carried out along with watering or while spraying the leaves. In winter, fertilizing is not carried out, especially if the room temperature is low. The flower must be provided with a short period of rest.
How to propagate
If the bush has grown too much, then it is carefully divided. It is taken into account that each division must have at least 3 pseudobulbs, which must be mature.
Pests and diseases
Spider mites may take up residence. To remove it, you need to give the flower a warm shower (water temperature is about 45 degrees).
Root rot may appear if there is too much water in the soil, and the room is also quite cool. The foliage becomes yellow and withers. Then it dies, and the flower itself dies.
First steps after purchase
The purchase of a Brassia should be preceded by a thorough inspection. Intact leaves and stems, a healthy appearance of the plant, the absence of pests, dead roots, and weeds on the soil surface indicate that the plant is in good health. It is important to have dense buds when the flowers are in bloom.
The transportation process seems to be very responsible. It is recommended to wrap the purchased orchid in several layers of paper to avoid drafts and mechanical damage. In the cold season, it is also advisable to cover it from above and not open it immediately upon arrival in the warmth, but give it the opportunity to move away for several hours.
During the first few weeks of acclimatization, the plant should be protected from the sun, a gentle temperature regime and minimal watering should be provided.
General information
Orchid
The inflorescences of Brassia have a rather individual feature. The calyxes of the flowers are elongated and have a sunny color with a greenish tint. This species is popularly called “spider orchid”. Pseudobulbs have one or more linear-lanceolate leaves at the top.
The branching of Brassia is sympodial, which means that after the end of its development, the pseudobulb dies, and a new one appears in its place. The flower has a creeping shoot, a little close to the soil, it is called a rhizome, and so in Brassia it is smaller than average, and the pseudobulbs grow on it in a bunch.
An orchid produces up to 15 inflorescences. The transitional shade is chocolate color with light green dots and, conversely, a light green shade with chocolate spots.
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Brassia watering and humidity
For Brassia, watering plays an important role in development. The plant needs moderate moisture. It would be correct to lower the container with the plant into water for about 25 minutes until the orchid is saturated, and then remove it and allow the remaining moisture to drain out. Watering should be done as the soil dries. And if new buds appear on the plant, then it is necessary not to water the orchid for about a week, otherwise there will be leaves instead of buds. Watering should be done with warm and settled water.
The air humidity in the room where the orchid grows should be about 60%; if the air is too dry, then the leaves of the plant begin to twist and curl, and it is difficult for them to straighten, since they are covered with a film that tends to dry out quickly. Spraying the plant should be done with filtered boiled water a couple of times a day.
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Planting brassia, choosing a pot and substrate
Vanda orchid
Transplanting brassia has a negative effect on the general condition of the plant, so it is better not to disturb the orchid unnecessarily. The signal for transplantation is provided by tuberidia that crawl out of the flower container or that the substrate is too compacted.
The most suitable time for planting orchids is spring, when young shoots have already appeared and formed their own root system at least 5–8 cm long, but all work must be done before budding begins. During transplantation, they are engaged in both propagation of the bush and sanitary inspection of the roots, followed by cutting off damaged, dead and rotten areas.
A plastic or ceramic flower container is suitable; it is not necessary to plant the plant in a transparent pot. The substrate for growing Brassia is prepared taking into account the requirements of good air permeability and looseness; in a compacted soil mixture, the orchid develops poorly, the roots suffer from a lack of oxygen and gradually die.
Suitable ingredients for the substrate include pine bark, sphagnum moss, peat and some pieces of charcoal; a layer of expanded clay drainage is required at the bottom. Considering that the orchid grows pseudobulbs in one direction, it is advisable to place it in the pot not in the center, but away from the wall towards which the growth of tuberidia will be directed.
Diseases and pests
- Spider mites are a dangerous pest for orchids. It feeds on plant sap. White dots first appear on the leaves below, and then the leaves become brownish-gray. A thin cobweb entwines an orchid. A hot shower and spraying with acaricides will help; fitoverm is the most harmless. 3 – 4 treatments are required with an interval of 5 – 6 days.
- Scale insects and mealyworms attack the leaf axils, especially in hot weather. Spraying the orchid with karbofos, fozalon and other chemicals will save it. Repeated treatment is carried out after a week. Treatment is carried out for a month.
- Slugs - disinfection of the pot and pre-treatment of the substrate can save you from them.
- Root rot is a dangerous disease for Brassia. The reason is waterlogging of the air and soil. Orchids are especially susceptible to such diseases in winter. Its leaves wither and turn yellow. You can lose a flower. Spraying and watering with foundationazole will help. For prevention, repeat the procedure 3 times every 10 days. Reduce watering, adjust humidity and temperature.
Cambria orchid
Reproduction and transplantation of Brassia
If desired, you can propagate a branching adult plant. The most favorable time for this is spring, when intensive development of the orchid resumes after the winter break. Using sterile scissors or a scalpel, the bush is divided into the required number of parts, leaving more than three ripe bulbs on each. The cut areas are sprinkled with ash or ground cinnamon. Then the parts are placed in different pots in a substrate prepared in advance.
Four days later, the pot with the young plant is immersed in warm water for half an hour for watering. You should cut off the first shoots and sprinkle the cuts with ash.
You should not replant Brassia unless necessary, because this procedure injures the root system and can lead to a lack of flowering.
The reason for replanting is usually the fact that the plant has outgrown its flower pot, and the pseudobulbs have begun to hang over the edge.
Be sure to keep in mind that Brassia pseudobulbs grow only on one side of the plant. When replanting, leave a certain amount of free space in the pot for this, planting the flower closer to the opposite side. Another feature of the growth of young bulbs of this orchid is that they appear higher than the previous ones, so plant the flower at a sufficient depth, leaving space at the top so that over time you can add substrate to the pot.
Before transplanting, take care to prepare the substrate. You can use a store-bought one or make it yourself. When purchasing, choose a substrate for epiphytic orchids. When making the mixture yourself, use sphagnum peat moss as a base. It should be at least 80% of the total volume of the substrate.
Substrate for orchids
Add fine fractions:
- conifer bark;
- activated and charcoal;
- chopped fern roots.
Do not compact the substrate in the pot. It should allow air to pass through well, ensuring sufficient ventilation of the root system. Having prepared the mixture in this way, you need to sterilize it by boiling it for 10 minutes in a water bath.
If the root system is damaged during transplantation, it is carefully cleaned of the old substrate and soaked in water at a temperature of +30°C. After this, check the roots again and carefully trim off the damaged areas. After undergoing the transplant procedure, Brassia requires a more attentive attitude towards herself within two weeks.
It will also be interesting: The orchid has faded - what to do next with the arrow and how to trim it?
Wash basin
Plastic containers are an excellent base for a temporary washbasin. To make it, you need to cut off the bottom, turn the bottle over and attach it to a pole or wall. Do not make too many holes, otherwise water will seep through them and the wall will be constantly wet, which will lead to mold. Moreover, you will have to constantly add water to a leaking sink.
It is not at all necessary to equip the washbasin with a special nozzle. Leave the cap on the neck, and when the need arises, unscrew it. This way you will be able to regulate the pressure. To make a nozzle, you can use an unnecessary syringe.
Varieties description and photo
The genus of this orchid is quite diverse, there are more than fifty of them. We will describe the most famous and unpretentious species.
Warty
The most common and unpretentious type of this orchid. It blooms at any time of the year, grows up to 50 cm. The flowers are pale, greenish-yellow, the petals are narrow, gracefully and harmoniously combined into a single variegated flower arrangement.
Watch a video about the features of the Warty Brassia:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=Hsx76HAst6Q
Spotted
Gives the aroma of vanilla, the flowers are bright yellow and quite large. Purple splashes add a special charm to this orchid. The petals are narrowed, pointed, like skewers.
Tailed
The flowers are soft yellow, curved. They look like little funny gnomes - fireflies, sitting down to rest and lowering their long thin legs. The aroma is more intense than that of other types of this orchid.
Royal
This is a hybrid. The aroma exudes an unusual one. Blooms thickly and profusely. Flowers look like stars spinning in a dance - their petals are so symmetrically raised. A very sophisticated and sophisticated orchid.
Simmer dream
The flowers are large, up to 15 cm. Similar to magic octopuses - twins. Against the background of the pale yellow color of the flower, brown spots, symmetrically located on the petals, stand out colorfully. The lip is large, wide, slightly gathered, wavy, adds a festive look and greatly decorates the orchid.
Brassidium
This is also a hybrid. Brassidium blooms thickly, the petals are variegated spiders. It’s as if the lanterns gathered in a garland are about to light up with a festive light. Charming and delicate orchid.
Plant species
As we said above, there are more than 50 varieties of indoor Brassia, the most popular and frequently occurring of which are the following types:
- Brassia warty. This plant has an unpretentious nature, which makes it the most popular compared to other varieties. The flower reaches a height of 50 cm, and during the flowering period it produces pale greenish-yellow buds with glossy petals, narrowed towards the tip. Brassia warty can bloom at any time of the year.
- Brassia spotted. The bud of this plant is slightly larger than that of other species. They are bright yellow and covered with purple specks. During flowering, the buds emit a pleasant vanilla aroma.
- Brassia caudate. The peduncle of this type of orchid is elongated. During the flowering period, lemon flowers with long curved petals resembling a mustache appear on it. During flowering, the buds smell pleasant.
- Brassia summer dream. This is an orchid with incredibly bright and beautiful lemon-colored buds, the petals of which are covered with burgundy spots. The diameter of the flowers can reach 15 cm.
Also no less popular are the hybrid varieties of Brassia: Miltassia (a hybrid of Miltonia and Brassia), Baquerara (a mixture of Miltonia, Brassia, Odontoglossum and Oncidium), Brassidium (a hybrid of Brassia and Oncidium).
Brassia orchid care at home
Brassia is quite capricious in care. The plant should be located on the eastern side with little diffused light and constant ventilation without drafts.
The air temperature in summer should be 23 degrees, and at night about 19; such temperature changes are required for the formation of the bulb and peduncle. In winter, the plant should not be exposed to temperature changes; its optimal temperature is about 18 to 22 degrees. In summer, it is possible to move the orchid to a loggia or to fresh air outside, but it is necessary to take into account changes in night temperature.
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How to stimulate flowering of brassia orchid?
The main condition for the flowering of this orchid is the difference between day and night temperatures, which should be at least 5-6 °C. Also, many gardeners believe that in order to make this plant bloom, it is necessary to lower the temperature to 16 °C while the young bulbs are maturing (when they begin to round).
Brassia chlorops. ©Barquerojose
Diseases and pests of Brassia
The most common pest found in Brassia is the spider mite. Its appearance is noticeable by the cobwebs on the leaves and flowers. Rinse the orchid in a shower with water temperature of +45°C if you suspect such an infection. Leaf axils can become breeding grounds for scale insects or mealyworms.
Will destroy the pest, regardless of its type, by treating the plant:
- Karbofos.
- Fozalon
- Actellicom.
Repeated treatment is carried out a week later.
Spider mite
The weak point of all orchids is the root system, which is highly susceptible to decay. Pseudobulbs can also develop root rot. The disease is usually provoked by a combination of low temperatures and abundant watering. A transparent plastic pot with bottom holes that should be cleaned periodically will help monitor the condition of the substrate and the quality of drainage.
It will also be interesting: Miltonia Orchid - caring for the plant at home
Rules for caring for Brassia at home
Caring for your Brassia orchid is easy to do at home. You just need to know a few basic rules, following which even a beginner can grow a beautiful plant at home
Please pay attention to environmental requirements. The place for keeping Brassia can be light or semi-shaded
It is best to place the flowerpot in the west or east indoors, although in the summer the orchid may also be suitable for the northern orientation of the windows. If the windows face south, you should create a shadow on the windowsill for the Orchid representative to prevent direct sunlight. If daylight hours last less than 10 hours, artificial lighting should be provided for the plant.
When caring for Brassia at home, room temperature should be maintained throughout the year - about +23...+25°C. It is also possible to grow orchids at +15°C. At the same time, for flowering it requires a temperature difference of 5 – 6°C.
Air humidity should be about 70 - 80%. If there is not enough moisture, the leaves of the plant begin to wrinkle. To moisturize, you can use a tray with wet expanded clay or spray with soft, boiled water.
Caring for a plant involves watering and feeding with nutrients. The substrate must be constantly moist. Water with soft water. After flowering, during the month-long dormant period, watering should be reduced. Every month, from May to September, fertilizing is carried out with a special fertilizer for orchids. It must contain the correct amounts of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen.
A very important step in caring for a Brassia orchid is planting it. Planting a plant is necessary at the time of planting its children and the primary pseudobulb in different pots, as well as when transplanting an adult unit into a more spacious pot. Plastic or clay containers with holes made in the bottom are suitable for this, which will prevent liquid stagnation. If the pot is plastic, then it is better to give preference to transparent material.
To plant Brassia at home, you need a special substrate for orchids, which includes:
- Sphagnum moss.
- Conifer bark
- Peat.
- Charcoal.
To protect it from the possible appearance of slugs, before planting, you should rinse the soil with boiling water or dry it at high temperatures in the oven.
The plant must be replanted every spring. When carrying out the procedure, you should remember that you can bring your pet back to life after suffering stress with the help of a warm shower (with water heated to +36°C).
This stage of caring for Brassia at home is shown in the photo:
It is especially important to replant an orchid if its roots do not fit in the flowerpot and hang over the edges. Requires porous drainage, loose, well-permeable soil
It is important to remember that during replanting, the orchid is buried in the substrate so that the young false bulbs, appearing on top of the old ones, can be sprinkled with soil. It is necessary to place it not in the middle of the pot, but closer to the wall - pseudobulbs will not develop on this side.
Brassia breeding is shown in the following video:
A pest such as a spider mite may appear on your pet, and you can get rid of it by taking a warm shower with water heated to +45°C. If the substrate is waterlogged and the air in the room is not warm enough, root rot disease may occur. In this case, the leaves turn yellow, later wither, and the plant dies.
By adhering to these simple rules, it is easy to raise a pet.
Paphiopedilum flowering
Care during flowering
Albuka spiral: description, cultivation and care at home
If you properly care for the paphiopedilum orchid and provide it with optimal conditions for growth, then it will bloom every year, and even at the same time. It is from the young rosette formed during the current season that the appearance of a peduncle is observed. The fact that the bush is ready to flower can be understood by the following sign: a leaf plate will form at the growth point, which, after it grows to a certain size, will stop developing. However, the formation of a signal leaf plate does not mean that the orchid will definitely begin to bloom. But if you provide it with proper care, then the shortened plate will become denser over time and form a bud. Once this happens, do not move the plant and it is better not to touch it at all. The fact is that if a bush is ready to flower, this means that it is quite happy with the microclimate in which it is located, and moving it to another place can only ruin everything. Remember that each rosette can bloom only once.
Care after flowering
Immediately after flowering ends, the plant is given a good rest so that it can regain its strength at the beginning of the growing season. To do this, the bush is moved to a cooler place (from 15 to 20 degrees), watering should become less frequent, and no fertilizers are added to the substrate at all. Despite the fact that the paphiopedilum will be dormant, it will form a bud near the old outlet. It is from this that a young rosette and peduncle will grow in the coming season.
As soon as a young sprout appears, the bush should be provided with the temperature regime that is typical for it during the growing season. They also gradually return to the usual watering regime, and they also begin to feed the bush.
Paphiopedilum orchid care. How to achieve flowering.
Watch this video on YouTube
Diseases and pests
Brassicas are harmed by mealybugs, false scale insects, and spider mites. Depending on the degree of damage, plants infested with parasites are washed with warm soapy water and treated using folk remedies or chemicals - actellik, fozalon, karbofos. Repeated treatment is carried out after 7–14 days to get rid of new larvae that hatched after spraying with pesticides that do not act on the chitinous shell of eggs.
The most common disease in Brassia is that the roots and bases of the pseudobulbs rot, the affected areas spread to the entire tuberidium, and treating the orchid becomes problematic. It is better to prevent root rot; to do this, you need to carefully monitor the abundance of watering, especially at low room temperatures.
Brassia varieties and hybrids
Brassia is an orchid that is a perennial herbaceous plant. Family: Orchidaceae. Homeland - tropical regions of America. Brassia is a very beautiful epiphytic plant. Large, leathery leaves grow from pseudobulbs. False bulbs have an oblong-rounded shape, flattened, tightly placed on the rhizome, with 1 or 3 leaves. Flowers appear on long (up to 50 cm) stems. Blooms from spring to late summer. Its aroma is similar to vanilla.
There are 34 natural species and 33 artificially bred hybrids of orchids of this genus. Take a look at the photo below showing varieties of Brassia. The illustrations clearly demonstrate the variety of colors of the petals of representatives of this plant. As you can see from the photographs, they can be either sunny-greenish tones with brownish inclusions, or brownish with golden-greenish spots.
Among the varieties of Brassia there are:
Brassia filomenoi.
Brassia gireoudian.
Brassia koehlerorum, etc.
Please note that the following video demonstrates the diversity of the Brassia Orchid:
Among the hybrids there are:
Brassioda.
Forgetara.
Miltassia and others.
In indoor floriculture, Brassia verrucosa (B. verrucosa) is usually used. This is due to the fact that it is the easiest to care for, and the plant does not stop blooming almost all year round. The duration of flowering for each flower is about a month.
Types of Brassia
The genus Brassia includes 34 species and many natural hybrids - grex, formed with the participation of orchids of other genera - Miltonia, Oncidium, Odontoglossum, Cochlyodes, Laelia, Rodriguezia, Ada, Aspasia and Epidendrum.
Tailed (B. caudata) - distinguished by oval pseudobulbs slightly flattened on the sides and long, gracefully curved peduncles bearing up to 12 spider-like flowers, brightly colored in a light green hue and variegated, blooming in February and finally fading at the end of summer.
Brassia caudata photo
Warty (B. verrucosa) - grows in mountain forests at an altitude of about 1600 m above the sea. It is found in small areas, but in many places from southern Mexico to Nicaragua, including El Salvador, Honduras and Guatemala, even living high on the southern spurs of the Atitlan volcano. It blooms from May to the end of July, forms a peduncle from the base of the tuberidium almost 75 cm long, on which develops from 5–8 to 15 flowers with light green petals, decorated with scarlet-chocolate spots. On the white lip there are dark emerald, from a distance, almost black convex spots-growths, reminiscent of warts - hence the specific name.
Photo of Brassia verrucosa
Orange (B. aurantiaca) is a high-altitude plant growing in Colombia at an altitude of 2500 m in the central Andes massifs and in the Venezuelan state of Tachira at an altitude of up to 2000 m on the eastern slopes of the mountains. It blooms from January to June with flaming orange flowers with characteristic thin purple stripes along the middle of the petals.
Photo of Brassia aurantiaca
Spotted (B. maculata) - in nature it grows in Belize and Guatemala at an altitude of 150 to 750 m above sea level, in El Salvador it rises to a height of up to 1100 m, and in Jamaica it lives in the low-lying floodplains of the Mason and Hope rivers. Leads a lithophytic or epiphytic lifestyle, reaches a height of about 1 m. Flowering is long and lasts from February to November. Large light green petals with purple or red-chocolate spots reach 20 cm. The lip is yellowish-cream, also covered in brown-purple peas.
Brassia maculata photo
Arched (B. arcuigera) is a large (about 70 cm tall) epiphytic plant that lives on moss-covered tree trunks in the provinces of Alajuela and Guanacaste in Costa Rica, and is also found in Panama and Ecuador in the rain forests of lowland valleys or in tropical mountains thickets on the western spurs of the Andes. The sepals and petals of its corollas at the very beginning of flowering are light green or greenish-cream in color, but over time they become orange-yellow. At their bases there are small spots of cherry-brown color. The lip is snow-white or to match the petals, dotted with small peas of the same color with a pattern of sepals and petals.
Brassia arcuigera photo
Caring for Brassia warty at home
Brassia as a houseplant does not require complex special care at home. This is one of the most unpretentious orchids, which will not be difficult to cope with. You just need to follow a few simple rules, and the plant will delight the owner with long-lasting flowering and lush foliage, filling the house with the aroma of vanilla and narcissus.
Lighting
Brassia tolerates bright light well, provided it is diffused. Direct sunlight can cause burns on delicate leaves and flowers. Therefore, it is preferable to place it on the window sills of those windows that are oriented to the east or west. This way, the orchid will receive enough ultraviolet light in the morning and evening hours and will not be exposed to the midday heat.
During the winter months, lack of sufficient natural light can cause suppression of flower stalks. The duration of daylight for proper plant development and full flowering should be at least 10 hours. Otherwise, additional light sources may be required.
Temperature and humidity
Regarding the temperature regime, this orchid is quite unpretentious. The optimal temperature in a home greenhouse is the range of +23-25°C. But ordinary room temperature is quite acceptable for this flower. In such conditions, the plant will grow well and bloom regularly. Even a microclimate that is quite cool for other varieties of orchids with an air temperature of +15°C will not bring any harm to Brassia.
Stimulation of flowering is created by regular differences between day and night temperatures.
To achieve the desired effect, the difference should be between 4 and 6°C. Another effective method used to obtain lush flowering is to reduce the daytime temperature to 17°C at the stage of rounding of young bulbs.
From May to September, it is recommended to move the plant to the balcony, providing it with protection from direct sunlight. Natural daily temperature fluctuations and a sufficient amount of ultraviolet radiation will ensure regular and effective flowering.
This orchid grows in tropical forests. In order for Brassia to feel like it is in its natural habitat, it is necessary to achieve a sufficiently high level of humidity in the room. Using a humidifier and regular fine spraying of the orchid can help with this. You can create an acceptable microclimate by using pallets filled with wet expanded clay or sand. You can also put sphagnum peat moss soaked in water in them.
When using moistening methods, it is necessary to ensure that the Brassia root system does not submerge in water. Its “aerial” roots are prone to rotting.
Watering and fertilizing
Watering from May to October occurs by lowering the flower pot into a bucket filled with water. The recommended duration of this procedure is up to half an hour. After removing the pot, you need to wait until excess water drains through its drainage. Winter watering is done much less frequently. The plant is kept in a relatively dry state, preventing the pseudobulbs from shrinking.
An important nuance in watering Brassia is monitoring the formation of new flower stalks. If a young sprout is detected, you should stop watering for a week, allowing the substrate to dry almost completely. This method helps prevent the transformation of young peduncles into pseudobulbs.
It is recommended to apply fertilizers to the soil no more than once every four weeks.
This should be done exclusively during the warm period, using a special nitrogenous fertilizer “For orchids”. It must be diluted to the concentration specified in the instructions with water for watering or spraying. It is recommended to alternate root and foliar feeding.
In winter, the application of fertilizers should be avoided, since at low temperatures plant metabolism is significantly reduced, which leads to the accumulation of minerals in the substrate and provokes the appearance of parasites or rotting of the root system.
Preparing for winter
Dry air during the heating season is harmful to orchids. The flower is placed away from radiators and heaters. The upcoming dormant period should be accompanied by a decrease in the frequency of watering and the exclusion of fertilizers.
It will also be interesting: Cambria Orchid - care and propagation of indoor plants at home
Step-by-step instruction
Landing
Brassia is a special flower, the bulbs grow only on one side, arranged in a ladder, the new bulb grows a “step” higher than the previous one. Therefore, Brassia has its own planting rules:
- free spacious, fairly high pot;
- during planting, the flower is lightly pressed against the edge of the pot;
- it is necessary to free up sufficient space for the growth of new bulbs;
- plant deeper, taking into account the addition of substrate, to form a hill.
Home care
It is proper watering that allows our American guest to bloom. In summer it should be watered abundantly; irrigation can be added. In winter and autumn, watering and spraying are reduced, and a moderate dry regime should take effect here.
The water, which must be settled or passed through a filter, is warm enough, slightly above room temperature. We water Brassia using the immersion method. We lower the pot into a bucket of water for 15 - 20 minutes, then let the excess water drain into the pan, but drain the water so as not to soak the roots. Dry the soil between waterings.
ATTENTION: As soon as flower stalks appear, stop watering for several days, this will help the formation of new bulbs. If small wrinkles appear on the bulbs, stop watering for 5-7 days.
If small wrinkles appear on the bulbs, stop watering for 5-7 days.
How to transplant?
An orchid is usually replanted in the spring, so it better adapts to new conditions. If the substrate has become very compacted, the bulbs have grown so much that they do not fit into the old pot, they have to hang over it - it’s time to replant
It is important not to bury the plant in the ground. Usually transplantation is combined with orchid propagation
When transplanting, follow the recommendations:
- It is safer to use the transfer method: we move the entire earthen ball into another pot.
- We clean the roots from the old soil using treated tools to avoid infection.
- Pre-soak the root in warm water, remove diseased, damaged roots.
- You need to move the orchid away from the center of the pot, leaving more space.
- The substrate is poured to 75% of the pot's fullness, taking into account its further addition.
The transplant is stressful for Brassia. Its adaptation lasts 1-2 weeks, watch the flower!
Priming:
- good drainage for air circulation (pebbles, crushed stone, foam);
- charcoal;
- moss - sphagnum;
- riding moss (as an addition);
- medium sized pieces of pine bark.
The prepared substrate can be disinfected using a water bath for 10 minutes.
Pots can be made of plastic or clay without enamel; the surface of the pot should be slightly rough; it is easier for the roots to settle on such a surface. Flower growers advise keeping Brassia in hanging baskets or flowerpots.
Watch a video about how to properly transplant a Brassia orchid:
How to propagate?
A young orchid can be bought in a store, but it is easy to propagate at home.
- Brassia reproduces vegetatively by division.
- The procedure is carried out in the spring, when it is actively developing.
- An adult orchid is cut closer to the main, maternal bulb.
- We clean the root from old, affected shoots.
- We treat the cut areas with charcoal.
- Each renewed bush should have 2 - 3 bulbs.
- We plant each part in the prepared substrate.
- Water after 4-5 days by immersion in warm water.
- We carefully cut off the first shoots and treat the cut areas with charcoal.
Description of appearance
Exotic Brassia is a perennial orchid, there are about 34 species related to it, the natural environment is the forests of America. Flowers are special both in shape and color. The petals are long, like cobwebs, pale green, sometimes bright lemon or yellow-green. Throughout the flower there are brown or dark burgundy spots - moles.
The leaves are belt-shaped, the edges of the leaves taper towards the apex, resembling the shape of a pointed knife - a lancet; bright green, glossy, dense. The Brassia rosette looks like a fan of leaves. The bulbs grow gradually, replacing one another. The leaves are dense, smooth, rich green.
ATTENTION: The stem of Brassia is short, creeping, the bulbs accumulate, form a bouquet or a ladder, pressing closely against each other. The aroma is special, even harsh, reminiscent of the smell of spring daffodils
Hybrids
Crossing plants with other species will surprise no one. Orchids also mate with different flowers. Some experiments turned out to be very successful.
Miltassia (brassia+miltonia)
It has purple spider-like buds with short but narrow sepals. In appearance, it is difficult to identify it as a member of the Orchid family, since it does not resemble the usual representatives at all.
Baquerara (Brassia + Miltonia + Odontoglossum + Oncidium)
The plant has bright, variegated flowers that are hard to miss. The petal is so elongated that it is practically lost against the background of the sepals.
Brassidium (brassia+oncidium)
The buds look like colorful spiders with long legs. There are so many of them on the arrows that, due to ignorance, this plant can hardly be classified as an orchid.
Conditions of detention
Lighting
Daylight should last at least 10 hours; if sunlight is not enough, you can use additional lighting - phytolamps. If Brassia doesn’t receive enough light all the time, it simply won’t bloom. Brassia loves diffused, slightly dim light, so it is better to place it on the east or west side, or shade it with a light curtain.
Humidity
Moderate humidity is recommended - 50 - 60%. If the young shoots look sluggish and begin to shrink, it is necessary to humidify the air. Light spraying or moistening the soil will help - the pots are placed on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.
IMPORTANT: Brassia does not tolerate dry air well
Temperature
In summer, during the day the room should warm up to 20-23°C, at night a little lower - 18-19°C. The difference in differences is small, 2 - 3°C, but the difference is required, it affects the growth of the peduncle and the bulb itself.
In winter, the orchid needs rest, so the temperature can be reduced by 2 - 4°C. For the correct formation of flower buds, the orchid is moved to a cool place, without heating, in September and May.
Place
It is better to choose a well-lit place for our modest one, but the orchid cannot stand the bright scorching sun; it is better to place it on the eastern or western side. If this is not possible, then artificially shade the windows with tulle, blinds, or curtains.
Description of the variety and origin of Brassia
Brassia is a flowering perennial plant belonging to the orchid family. This genus of orchids has about 30 species, very similar to each other. Brassia warty is distinguished from other indoor plants by its very unusual flowers, which have a clear resemblance to long-legged spiders. On the surface of the shortened yellow petals there is a scattering of convex brown specks.
Color options
At the same time, there are specimens with exotic flower colors: almost brown rounded petals with bright light green splashes. The Royal Brassia flowers resemble clusters of small stars, while the Summer Dream variety has pale yellow large flowers.
The hybrid varieties turned out to be very beautiful:
- Miltassia (Brassia + Miltonia) with purple flowers;
- Bakerary (Brassia + Miltonia + Odontoglossum + Oncidium) – a bright and variegated orchid;
- Brassidium (Brassia + Oncidium) with flowers that look like small colored spiders.
Main characteristics
The large lower leaf of the Brassia flower, the lip, does not have a connection with the column. Elongated sepals with thin thread-like edges reach a length of 15 cm. Usually the inflorescence developing in the leaf axil has 6-8 buds arranged in succession, but there can be twice as many. The peduncle can grow up to 50 cm. The Brassia Orchid in the photo very much resembles a bright tropical insect.
The thick pear-shaped pseudobulbs of this orchid are hidden by two or three strap-shaped leaves arranged in a dark green fan around the base. Closer to the edge, the dense and smooth leaf becomes sharper, resembling a lancet. Having completed its life cycle, the bulb dies, and a young one forms directly above it. Due to the short creeping stem, the bulbs that are closely spaced can form a “ladder” at the base of the flower.
Orchid advantage
The Brassia verrucosa orchid has a number of obvious advantages that speak in its favor when choosing from a store-bought assortment of flowers. It is unpretentious and grows well in a home greenhouse or just on a windowsill. The ability to bloom year-round makes it an original decorative decoration for a living room. Growing such a flower is very simple, and even a gardener without experience can handle this orchid.
It will also be interesting: Orchid Zygopetalum - caring for a houseplant at home
3.Varieties:
3.1. Brassia verrucosa
Quite large epiphytic orchids with dark green, fusiform, wrinkled pseudobulbs up to 8 cm long. Each pseudobulb forms at the top 2 strap-shaped, dark green leaves up to 40 cm long. Peduncles are leafless, thin, reach a height of 30 - 90 cm, each can bear up to 15 large, fragrant flowers. Each flower reaches 10 cm in diameter and has long, narrow petals. The color of flowers is variable and can be white, green, brown, yellowish, beige with all sorts of combinations of these shades.
Flowers open sequentially - from the base of the peduncle to its top, which significantly prolongs the flowering period.
3.2.Brassia Summer Dream - Brassia “Summer Dream”
A spectacular beauty with elongated green pseudobulbs and long, belt-shaped, dark green leaves. The leaf blades are glossy, often arcuate. The peduncles are thin and may droop under the weight of the flowers. The flower petals are brownish in color with small yellow or greenish spots, the lip is predominantly yellow or greenish in color. The flower petals are very long, thin, curved, which is why the plant’s second name is given - spider orchid. During the flowering period, brassia produces a very pleasant aroma.
3.3. Brassia Tuscany - Brassia Toscana
A bright epiphytic orchid with elongated green pseudobulbs, from the tops of which large, glossy, dark green leaves emerge. Erect peduncles 30–60 cm high can bear 8–12 fragrant flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, colored yellowish-brown with large, contrasting spots. Peduncles will need support during the flowering period.
Transplanting and propagating phalaenopsis orchids at home
If the container in which the flower grows has become small and the growth of the orchid has slowed down, this means that it is time to replant it.
As a rule, phalaenopsis orchids are replanted no more than once every two years; it should be done very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the aerial roots. When replanting phalaenopsis at home, it is best to cut or break the old container, and place the orchid along with the earthen ball in a new pot, adding fresh substrate
To grow the plant, it is better to use transparent plastic pots in which drainage holes can be made. To remove salts, it is necessary to rinse the soil once a month under running warm water for 15-20 minutes.
Trim the faded arrow 1 cm above the largest bud that has not blossomed: a new peduncle can grow from it.
Propagation of the phalaenopsis orchid is carried out by dividing the adult plant, which is cut into two parts with a knife so that each has its own roots. Sometimes dormant buds of peduncles develop into babies; they are planted after the appearance of their own root system. It is possible to propagate phalaenopsis at home by seeds; in plants grown from seeds, flowering can begin in 2-3 years.
What groups of these colors are there?
All orchids can be divided into two large groups:
- sympodial;
- monopodial.
A characteristic feature of the first group is the death of the apical bud or its movement into the inflorescence. As soon as the shoot reaches a certain size, it stops growing and produces a new shoot. Sympodial orchids also produce thick stems, which later turn into tubers (bulbs).
Attention: Monopodial orchids, on the contrary, are characterized by an apical bud. This means that the plant can grow in length all its life, especially liana or rosette species. Thanks to such a pronounced division, it is not difficult to distinguish one group from another, and, accordingly, understand how to grow and care for this wonderful flower
But it is still worth considering that each variety, species or hybrid requires an individual approach
Thanks to such a pronounced division, it will not be difficult to distinguish one group from another, and, accordingly, understand how to grow and care for this marvelous flower. But it is still worth considering that each variety, species or hybrid requires an individual approach.
