Ceropegia. Popular domestic species with name and photo. Features of plant care

Ceropegia is a perennial herbaceous plant belonging to the Lastovnevye family. The closest relatives of Ceropegia are Hoya and Stapelia. Translated from Greek, the name of the plant means “candelabra”, “candlestick”.

Ceropegia has a very original inflorescence. Flowers of the most bizarre shapes appear singly or in several pieces in the axils of the leaves: lanterns, necklaces, parachutes, fountains, antennas, tubes, they are raised. The petals are fused at the top and bottom and form a kind of trap for pollinating insects. When the insect gets there, floundering around trying to get out, it collects pollen, then the flower opens and releases the insect. In this way, pollination occurs in the natural environment.

Botanical description

Ceropegia voodoo care at home photo

The root system is tuberous. The leaves are mostly fleshy, thick, heart-shaped or lanceolate in shape. Roots and leaves are organs that store moisture. Some ceropegia have no leaves at all; such plants are not grown at home.

The shoots are long and flexible. In some species, nodules form on the stems, which over time produce roots and shoots. Ceropegia is grown as an ampelous, climbing, creeping plant.

Its natural habitat is the southern part of Africa, it can be found in the north of Australia, China, India, and the islands of the Canary archipelago.

Despite its unusual appearance and ease of care, ceropegia can rarely be found in home floriculture. Get to know this plant better, because the exotic ceropegia will be an excellent decoration for houses, apartments and other premises.

How to care for ceropegia at home

Ceropegia ampelous photo

Ceropegia are unpretentious in care; even beginners can cope with them.

There are some nuances:

Ceropegia is a succulent plant. It is necessary to water moderately so as not to provoke rotting.
Over time, the shoots stretch out, the leaves fall off, the plant loses its attractiveness, so it is necessary to replant every 5 years.
Immediately provide a suitable support from which you can quite easily remove the plant when replanting.
Plant several shoots in one container to make the bush more lush.

Choosing a location and lighting

Ceropegias love light and warmth. Lighting must be diffused, without direct sunlight. The best place would be windows facing east and west. When placed on the south side, provide shading. When placed on a north window, additional lighting with phytolamps will be required. Daylight hours should be about 12 hours.

Air temperature

In spring and summer, maintain the air temperature within 21-25 °C. In order for the plant to “rest”, keep the air temperature at 15 °C in autumn-winter. If the winter is warm, be sure to use artificial lighting.

Watering and air humidity

Balanced watering is important. Drying out or excess moisture can destroy the plant. Overdrying of the earthen clod leads to the falling of leaves, and flooding provokes rotting.

In summer, water generously as the top layer of soil dries, in autumn - moderately, and in winter (during cool wintering) it is enough to water once every 2 weeks. If the plant overwinters in a warm place with additional lighting, leave watering to “summer”.

There are no requirements for air humidity. For hygiene purposes, occasionally spray the plant and wipe off dust from the leaves with a damp sponge.

For watering and spraying, use soft, settled water at room temperature.

Feeding

In spring and summer, fertilizing is necessary every 2 weeks. Use fertilizers for succulent plants or orchids, diluted at half the concentration recommended by the manufacturer. The rest of the time, as well as young plants, do not need to be fed.

Trimming

Ceropegia do not need routine pruning. It is carried out to maintain decorativeness. Shorten shoots that are too long or broken off. To stimulate tillering, pinch the tips of the shoots.

Features of growing ceropegia

Before planting ceropegia at home, you need to know a number of rules and features in growing:

Like all succulent plants, the rhizome of ceropegia is capable of absorbing moisture. Therefore, waterlogging and stagnation of water in the soil should not be allowed. Such plants are susceptible to root rot.
Every 2-3 years, an adult plant needs to be replanted, and young shoots are planted once a year in the spring.
With good care, the flower grows quickly - the shoots become long and can become tangled. Therefore, it is necessary to provide support for the vines in advance.
To create a lush shape, when transplanting, it is better to take several tubers in one pot.
Ceropegia does not like stagnant air - you should periodically ventilate the room in which it is located.
The plant loves sunlight very much. Then it readily blooms with large flowers. In winter, it is advisable to illuminate the plants with lamps.

Ceropegia transplant

How to transplant ceropegia photo

Young plants require annual replanting. Older ones are replanted every few years. Roll over together with the earthen lump.

The container needs to be wide, not deep, with large drainage holes. The drainage layer should occupy ¼ of the volume.

The soil needs to be light, loose, water- and breathable. Suitable substrate for succulents or cacti. If possible, prepare a soil mixture: mix leaf soil, turf soil, humus, river sand in equal proportions, add a little charcoal, pine bark, and brick chips.

Ceropegia care

Growing conditions

Caring for ceropegia at home is simple. Any type of this plant requires bright lighting. Succulents also tolerate direct sunlight, but still, when kept on a southern windowsill at midday, ceropegia should be shaded with a light curtain.

If a flower lacks light, its leaves become small, few in number, and flowering may not occur.

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In the photo: Ceropegia at home

During the period of active growth, the plant is most comfortable at a temperature of 20-25 ˚C. In autumn, the temperature is gradually lowered to 16˚C to prepare the plant for the transition to the dormant period. In winter, ceropegia is kept at 14-16 ˚C. The lower temperature limit is 11˚C, but keeping the plant at this temperature for a long time can lead to its death.

Ceropegia tolerates sharp changes between day and night temperatures well.

Watering

From spring to mid-autumn, ceropegia is watered when the top layer of the substrate dries in the pot. Any water that has drained into the pan must be poured out. In autumn, watering is gradually reduced. In winter, the substrate is moistened only 2-3 days after the top layer of the substrate has dried, however, the entire earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out even during the dormant period, since this can lead to the death of the plant’s root system. Watering is carried out with settled or filtered tap water at room temperature.

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Dry air does not frighten ceropegia, so there is no need to spray the plant.

Fertilizer

Young ceropegia do not require fertilizers: they only need the nutrients in the soil. Adult plants are fed 1-2 times a month with mineral fertilizers for succulents or orchids, but only from spring to mid-autumn and using only half the dose indicated in the instructions. Ceropegias are not fed in autumn and winter.

Transfer

Only young plants, whose pot and substrate are changed every spring, and greatly expanded adult ceropegia, whose roots have become cramped in the pot, need replanting. The plant is replanted using the transshipment method, only lightly shaking off the old soil from its roots. Store-bought cactus soil is used as a substrate, adding a little charcoal to it.

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You can make up the substrate yourself by mixing equal parts of turf, humus, leaf soil and sand and adding charcoal.

It is better to take a dish for ceropegia that is shallow and wide, placing a layer of drainage material on its bottom and only then transferring the plant into it. After transferring, the remaining space of the pot is filled with substrate.

In the photo: Ceropegia leaves

Bloom

Ceropegia blooms almost all year round, and usually no problems arise with its flowering. However, not every plant species has attractive flowers; some ceropegia are grown only for their leaves. If you don't like the blossoms, just pinch them off.

Diseases, pests, other difficulties

Ceropegia has fairly good immunity to diseases and pests.

Root rot is a major disease that occurs due to improper watering, low air temperatures, heavy soil or too large a pot. The shoots will become sluggish, the leaves will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Perform an emergency transplant. Remove the plant from the pot, trim off damaged roots, and treat with a fungicide. Replace the soil completely. Do not water immediately after transplanting. Then adjust the watering.

It is extremely rarely affected by pests. Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs may appear. In this case, remove them mechanically: soak a cotton pad in soapy water and wipe the leaves, then treat with an insecticide.

Due to lack of lighting, flowering may be absent, the shoots become thin and elongated, the leaves turn pale and curl.
Exposure to direct sunlight leaves burns in the form of spots on the leaves.
From lack of moisture, the stems and leaves dry out.

Transfer

Transplantation is carried out in early spring. Young plants need to be replanted every year, both the pot and the soil are changed - it is easy to root at this age. Adult ceropegia need to change the pot when the roots become crowded. The root system of formed semi-shrubs is branched and completely covers the lump, so they are simply transferred to a new container. After transplantation, the container with the plant is covered from direct sunlight for a week, then it can be returned to its original place.

Reproduction of ceropegia by cuttings

Ceropegia cuttings photo

Cuttings are the most popular method.

The cutting should contain 4-8 nodes; long cuttings are not divided, but pinned, sprinkled with earth.
Root in early spring.
The cut areas should be slightly dried and treated with a growth stimulator.

Rooted cuttings of Ceropegia photo

Can be rooted in a sand-peat mixture or sand.
Cover the top with film, place in a bright place, maintain the air temperature at about 24 ° C, ventilate regularly, and water with warm water.

Reproduction by nodules and dividing the bush

Reproduction of ceropegia by nodules photo

Wood's Ceropegia successfully reproduces by nodules formed on the stems. Cut off part of the shoot with a nodule and a couple of leaves, root it in the sand.

When transplanting, divide the rhizome. Remove the plant from the pot, divide it into parts with a sharp knife, each section should have a well-developed root system and several shoots. Treat the cutting areas with a fungicide, and plant the cuttings in separate containers.

Trimming and updating

Ceropegia does not require any special pruning or crown shaping. Remove excessively elongated or dried shoots. There is no need to cut a lot, as this will cause the flower to dry out. When the plant reaches the age of 5–6 years, it loses its attractive appearance and requires renewal: all old stems without foliage and flowers are removed. Some of the shoots can be used to propagate succulents.

Sometimes the vines of the plant can be pinched - this stimulates branching of the stems. After the procedure, the stems must be treated with crushed charcoal.

Ceropegia shoots are often intertwined and confused with each other, and it can be very difficult to separate them. Therefore, it is better to untangle them as they grow, or prepare a special support.

Growing from seeds

Ceropegia seeds photo

Ceropegia seeds are difficult to find on sale and impossible to collect at home. If you managed to get them, sow them in the spring.

Sow in light soil, plant the seeds one, two or three in one cup, so as not to dive.
Cover the crops with film, maintain the air temperature within 20-25°C, ventilate and spray regularly.

Types of ceropegia with photos and names

The genus Ceropegia has more than 250 species.

Ceropegia suitable for home floriculture can be divided into 5 groups:

Plants with rather thin, non-fleshy leaves.
Tuberous varieties with both thin and fleshy leaves.
Ceropegia with thin shoots.
Liana-shaped ceropegia with very succulent stems, tiny leaves.
The stems and leaves are succulent, the plant climbs.

Most often, Wood's ceropegia and Sanderson's ceropegia are grown indoors.

Wood's Ceropegia woodii cultivation and care

Ceropegia woodii flowering photo

Ceropegia voodoo is the most popular species. It has thin graceful stems, painted in a brownish-purple hue, the shoots hang from the pot in a dense network. Young leaves have a light green or lilac color, they are strung on shoots, like beads. Old leaves are thin, wide, and acquire a marble color.

In the summer, light potato-like nodules appear right on the shoots. They are used for plant propagation, and it does not matter which end of the tuber is placed in the soil - it will still take root and sprout.

Flowering lasts all summer and part of autumn. Tubular flowers appear in the axils of the leaves; they are pubescent inside. Moreover, flowers bloom on both old and new shoots.

Ceropegia Wooda is a succulent plant. It will bloom well even without high-quality watering and fertilizing; it reproduces very easily: it is difficult to find a less unpretentious plant.

Best grown in hanging pots. You can use stands of various shapes, which the flexible shoots will successfully entwin, but when the time comes for replanting, untangling the composition is quite problematic - damage to the plant is possible.

Sanderson's Ceropegia sandersonii

Ceropegia sandersonii flowering photo

It has long thin stems of dark green color. It looks very beautiful on a supporting structure, which the stems are upholstered with a snake. The leaves are located at a distance of about 20 cm from each other. They are fleshy, glossy, triangular in shape. Flowering occurs almost all year round. The greenish flowers consist of 5 petals fused into a tube. They are covered with white and greenish cilia. Flowers exude a pleasant, refined aroma.

This exotic plant is quite rare in flower shops; it is easier to purchase it at flower shows.

Let's look at other, less popular indoor ceropegies.

Ceropegia afrikana

Ceropegia afrikana photo

The stems are long and creeping. The leaves are small, oval in shape. Lantern flowers consist of a tubular bract and 5 petals and are green in color.

Ceropegia stapeliiformis

It has long thick stems dotted with growths-tubercles. The leaves are triangular in shape, small. The goblet-shaped flowers are burgundy-white in color.

Ceropegia elegans

Ceropegia elegans photo

Subtype of Sanderson's ceropegia. An ampelous plant with thin shoots. Leaves are heart-shaped. The flowers are five-petaled and white-green.

Ceropegia linearis

It has long narrow leaves, sparsely located on strong, elongated shoots. The flowers are lilac-violet, elongated.

Ceropegia aristolochio Ceropegia aristolochio >Ceropegia fantastica Ceropegia fantastica

Ceropegia fantastica photo

The flowers of this vine really look fantastic: on pink peduncles there are white flowers with a black and green pattern. Tiger spots combined with thin lines along the edges of the petals and rainbow spills inside.

Ceropegia variegata

Interesting variations of different species with variegated colors: the leaves are almost white, silver-green, with dark green veins, look very exotic.

Indoor plants, unusual in their appearance, have always enjoyed special attention from gardeners. After all, growing any representative of exotic flora in an apartment is sometimes very difficult. And all the more attractive are the views with which you don’t have to fuss and babysit a lot, like a small child. These include ceropegia. Caring for most of its varieties at home does not go beyond the usual maintenance of indoor succulents. But the unusual shape of the flowers, similar to candlesticks, elevates the plant to the rank of especially desirable for many domestic gardeners, and Wood's Ceropegia is doubly interesting, it also has incredibly colorful foliage.

Translated from ancient Greek, the name of the genus Ceropegia from the Kutrovaceae family sounds like “candelabra” and is associated with the structure and shape of the flower. The homeland of succulent vines is the tropical regions of Asia and Africa, but you can find this amazing flower in nature in Northern Australia, Madagascar, the Canary Islands, and New Guinea.

Features of Wood's ceropegia

Among the most common indoor flower varieties are:

Wood's Ceropegia;
Ceropegia Sanderson.

Ceropegia woodii is an amazingly beautiful hanging plant with thin, long purple stems covered with many round or heart-shaped leaves. The width of the plate is about 15 mm, and the length is approximately 20 mm. The leaves are dense, fleshy, green and patterned on the front side, and light green or purple on the inside. When viewed from afar, the plates resemble a cluster of small green coins with a silvery tint, each of which seems to be strung on stems, as if on thin long threads. The tubers are gray in color.

In the leaf axils (one in each internode) beige or pinkish cylindrical flowers with dark brown petals, on the inside of which there is a whitish fluff, are formed. Flowering continues all year round, but it cannot be called lush or particularly attractive.

Wood's Ceropegia

As already mentioned, during a hot period under conditions of high humidity, yellowish nodules located on the shoots begin to develop rapidly. As soon as they have roots, they can be planted and eventually get a new copy of Ceropegia. The presence of such tubers is the main distinguishing feature of Wood's ceropegia.

Nodules on stems

This variety is most often grown as an hanging crop, placing the flower in a hanging pot or basket. As an option, one can design a particular figure using a wire frame.

Creating a figure from Wood's ceropegia is not the best solution, since the thin long stems are so tightly intertwined with each other that if necessary, for example, when transplanting, it is almost impossible to untangle them.

Figure from Wood's Ceropegia

The crop blooms quite luxuriantly (for ceropegia) throughout the year, making it very popular among gardeners.

Another, no less popular domestic species is Ceropegia Sanderson. This is a perennial crop with branching thin, long stems, practically devoid of leaf blades. The distance between the nodes reaches 20 cm. In each of them there are two ovoid or rounded leaves located opposite each other. The dense leaf blade has a glossy, slightly convex surface with a well-defined central vein. The length of the plate is about 6 cm, and the width reaches 4 cm. Ceropegia sandersonii is grown as a hanging crop and is valued for the unusual shape of its flowers, which resemble tiny parachutes. Most often, a support is placed next to the plant, which the vine entwines with its green stems. You can use a strong lattice, driftwood or wire as a support.

Botanical portrait

Most ceropegia are herbaceous perennials with thick tuberous rhizomes that store moisture and erect or climbing succulent pagons, on which succulent oval or heart-shaped leaves are located opposite. The color of the crown is rich green, but Ceropegia variegata is also found with a pattern on the leaf blades of a cream, yellowish or marble hue. In some species, tiny bulblets form in the axils of the leaves, which, after contact with the soil, can grow and send out roots in conditions of high humidity.

Flowering stems also emerge from the axils of the leaves and bear single flowers at the apex or small umbellate inflorescences from tubular corollas widened at the base. The petals are often fused both at the bottom and at the top, forming a kind of trap for pollinating flies. Thanks to such a wonderful shape, the ceropegia flower has many popular names, for example, parachute, lantern flower, beach umbrella, snake vine, antenna, necklace, rosary plant and others. The fruits are spindle-shaped or cylindrical leaflets.

Description

From ancient Greek, ceropegia is translated as “candelabra”. This name was given to the flower due to its extraordinary shape, which often varies depending on the species. Some have erect stems, others have climbing and creeping stems.

The leaves resemble a heart, light green in color with small dark green splashes. Ceropegia is one of the variegated flowers, i.e. having mutant cells that are incapable of producing chlorophyll. The word "variegata" means "spotted" in English.

How to plant ceropegia correctly

The liana has an intensively developing root system, so the need to replant young plants arises every spring. More mature specimens are replanted every 2 or 3 years.

Choosing a flower container

When choosing a pot for a flower, take into account the size of the rhizome. The tubers should fill the inner space of the vessel so that the distance to the side walls remains at least 2 cm.

It is advisable to choose earthenware or ceramic, for such a dry-loving flower as Wood’s Ceropegia or another variety, it is important that the root system is not subject to waterlogging. In plastic containers, the earthen lump dries out more slowly. Be sure to use expanded clay drainage at the bottom of the pot.

Preparation of soil mixture

The substrate for growing ceropegia should be light, loose and breathable. In the assortment of flower shops you can choose the appropriate mixture for cacti or succulents from any manufacturer. It may require mixing a certain amount of sand to improve aeration.

To independently prepare the substrate, take equal volumes of humus soil, peat soil, leaf humus, add 15% coarse river sand and some medium-small pieces of charcoal.

During planting, the tubers are carefully placed on top of the drainage layer and a small layer of substrate, sprinkled with the remaining soil mixture on top so that the rhizome is completely covered with soil, although in some species it is possible to place the tubers partially above the level of the earthen clod.

Reproduction methods

Ceropegia is an easy plant to propagate. At home, cuttings take root well and seeds germinate well.

Rooting cuttings

They are cut in the spring, in March or April. For Wood's ceropegia, they try to select a stem fragment with an aerial nodule for rooting - the chances of getting a new plant in this case are almost one hundred percent. The cutting is buried in damp sand and the ambient temperature is maintained at 7 to 20 degrees Celsius.

3.Varieties:

3.1. Wood's Ceropegia woodii

An evergreen plant is a vine up to 4 m long with thin, flexible, abundantly branching stems. The leaves are heart-shaped, on short petioles, green with silvery or pinkish spots. The underside of the leaf blade is often painted in a contrasting burgundy color. Thickened tubers sometimes form on the stems, as well as in the root system, which can be planted. The flowers are pink, lilac or burgundy, with 5 petals, of an extremely unusual shape, up to 3 cm long. This subspecies is the most common at home.

↑ Up,

3.2. Sanderson's Ceropegia sandersonii

This subspecies has a unique appearance - the plants have long, green, chaotically curved shoots up to 4 m long. The leaves are green, heart-shaped, often one, even a large adult plant has only 2 - 5 leaves. The flowers are solitary, large - up to 7 cm long, yellowish-green, spotted.

↑ Up,

What are the maintenance requirements for ceropegia?

The succulent is very light-loving and develops well only with sufficient lighting. However, under the bright sun on the foliage, burns of the delicate tissue of the surface of the leaf blades easily occur. Indoors, they try to place the ceropegia so that it receives a lot of light, and at the same time does not suffer from its intensity.

The optimal thermal regime for the vine is 12-24 degrees, and winter maintenance should not only be cool - up to 15 degrees, but also dry. The critical temperature for a succulent is 10 degrees above zero, it is advisable not to allow it to be lower, otherwise the foliage will fall off and the tubers will die.

Features of care

Ceropegia reacts very painfully to stagnant air in the room, so along with traditional care measures, you should often ventilate the room in which the succulent grows.

Watering and air humidity

The environment for growing ceropegia requires a dry one, so additional means of increasing air humidity are not only not needed, but, on the contrary, can cause harm to a succulent vulnerable to rot.

Careless abundant watering can quickly destroy a flower, so the grower should be extremely careful about the watering regime of ceropegia. In summer, ceropegia are watered once a week, when the earthen ball dries out. In autumn, moisture is reduced to once a decade, and in winter it is watered twice a month, or even less often, depending on the temperature in the room.

Feeding

During the active growing season, the vine is fed with complex fertilizers for succulents and cacti once every 2 weeks. They try to avoid formulations with a large percentage of the nitrogen component. During winter dormancy, feeding is stopped.

Pruning, need for support

Ceropegia is grown as an ampelous plant, placed on a raised stand or hanging in a flower pot. If the plant is placed on a windowsill or table next to a window, it must be provided with a support, otherwise some cultivated species cling to the curtain with their tendrils. It will not be possible to tear them off without damaging the fragile pagon.

In the spring, the pagons can be shortened if they grew too long in the previous season. Cut fragments of stems are used for propagation, cutting into several cuttings.

They try to trim off faded inflorescences in a timely manner, stimulating the formation of new buds. By creating favorable care conditions for ceropegia, you can achieve frequent flowering.

Where to place

The plant prefers bright places with little direct rays. They will add brightness to the crown, but it is better to hide the plant from the aggressive sun - burns may appear on the delicate leaves. An excellent location would be the west or east side. If the room faces south, then it is better to place the plant in the back of the room; on the north side it will need additional lighting.

In the absence or insufficient light, ceropegia will not only lose its beauty, but will also not show a flower.

The optimal temperature for the growth of ceropegia is 23ᵒ-25ᵒ. The plant calmly withstands sharp temperature fluctuations from 11ᵒ to 27ᵒ. When it drops below 10ᵒ, or stays at this temperature for a long time, the African flower freezes and dies. The succulent slows down its growth and goes into hibernation at a temperature of 13ᵒ-15ᵒ.

The rest period is expressed implicitly. If the environment and conditions are suitable, then the plant can easily do without it. The flower is usually put into dormancy in winter, when it lacks light. To do this, reduce the temperature and intensity of watering.

If the light intensity drops in winter, it is not necessary to give the shrub a dormant period. You can maintain lighting levels using special lamps.

Diseases and pests of ceropegia

The main problem in growing the plant is the rotting of tubers and pagons in conditions of high humidity. Consequently, waterlogging of the earthen coma should not be allowed. If the first signs of rot appear, the affected areas must be removed immediately. Healthy fragments of stems are rooted so as not to be left without an amazing flower.

The foliage very soon signals about excessive watering - it becomes pale and crumbles. This phenomenon usually occurs in winter. Unnaturally elongated branches and small leaves indicate insufficient lighting or a lack of nutrients. In cool conditions and slight overwatering, the foliage turns yellow.

Among the pests on ceropegia are mealybugs, aphids and spider mites. For small lesions, sometimes washing the plant with warm soapy water helps. Large colonies of insects are destroyed with systemic insecticides, and acaricidal drugs approved for indoor use are used against ticks.

Possible difficulties

Various fungal infections can affect a plant, mainly this happens if the plant is not properly cared for. If watering is too frequent and excessively abundant, moisture stagnates in the ground, which leads to rotting of the roots.

If signs of rotting are detected, you must immediately remove the bush from the pot, inspect the roots, remove all areas with damage using a sharp and clean knife, and dip the roots in a solution with a fungicide for half an hour. Afterwards, you need to dry the roots and plant them in a pot with a new earthen mixture.

Sunburn is possible if the plant is constantly exposed to the scorching sun. If you don't give enough light, the shoots will stretch and the bush will look very sick.

When growing ceropegia indoors, it is still possible for harmful aphids, mealybugs and spider mites to appear. These pests are suckers and, gnawing through the foliage, they suck out all the juices from the plant. With their appearance, the plant begins to show signs of lethargy and pain; flowers and stems begin to deform. In addition to the fact that these insects suck out vitality, they are also capable of transmitting viral infections to plants that cannot be cured.

If you find insects when their numbers are still small, you can deal with them with a warm shower. If there are a large number of them, it will be necessary to treat them with insecticides, taking the plants outside or placing them in an open window.

Types of Ceropegia, popular in indoor cultivation

According to the Internet project The Plant List, the genus Ceropegia includes about 217 species of herbaceous perennials and climbing plants.

Wood's Ceropegia (C. woodii) is the most popular species in cultivation with a large tuberous root, from which several thin, almost thread-like, drooping stems grow. The pagons reach approximately 2 m in length, covered with fleshy leaves in the shape of a kidney or heart.

On the upper side, the color of the leaf blades is light green, with a silvery pattern, and on the bottom - with a slight pinkish tint. The corollas, similar to small candles, are painted white, light lilac or violet. They appear continuously throughout almost the entire year.

Ceropegia graceful (C. elegans) is a perennial with spectacular creeping runners, evenly covered with elongated, short-pointed at the apex, ciliated leaves. Tubular corollas form a few-flowered umbellate inflorescence. The tops of the white petals with a purple or purple-cherry pattern are also decorated with delicate eyelashes.

Sanderson's Ceropegia (C. sandersonii) is a herbaceous vine with creeping shoots and thick ovoid leaves. The inflorescences are few in number, consisting of flowers with awl-shaped petals forming a light green-cream corolla, reminiscent of a parachute canopy with a ciliated edge.

Ceropegia Fusca (C. fusca) is an exotic species native to the Canary Islands with thin grayish-green erect pagons covered with a waxy layer. They remain leafless for most of the season.

African Ceropegia (C. africana) is a herbaceous liana with fleshy burgundy stems and very picturesque heart-shaped leaves, in which emerald convex spots appear on a silver background, and a purple-green border stretches along the edge of the plate. The flowers are pink-purple, tubular, widened at the base and fused at the apex, decorated with dark cilia.

Ceropegia stapeliiformis (C. stapeliiformis) is a perennial with creeping stems, round in cross-section closer to the base and triangular near the apex. The leaves are small, with small stipules. The inflorescences consist of 2-3 tubular corollas, opening with long sharp petals of white and dark purple color.

What varieties of Ceropegia Wooda can be found on sale?

The classic plant with its mottled green and silver leaves is incredibly popular, which has led to several varieties being bred with slightly different leaf colors or shapes. Let's briefly describe them.

Wood's variegated Ceropegia woodii variegata

One of the most unique varieties with stunning pink and cream variegated foliage.

Purple shades of the stems add decorativeness to the flower, and the brighter the light in which the succulent is kept, the greater the variegation.

Ceropegia woodii 'Silver Glory'

With similar burgundy stems and thick leaves to the native species, this variety has apple-shaped leaves rather than the classic heart shape.

This variety gets its name from the strong silvery variegation that covers most of each leaf, with a thin dark green stripe along the edges.

Ceropegia woodii 'Heartless' variety

The flower of this variety has many characteristics similar to the original species, but there are also many differences.

Its leaves are elongated, bright green with lighter green speckles without burgundy undersides. The shoots of this variety are light pink.

In conclusion, we want to share with you one video that describes in detail 3 options for how to use Ceropegia Wooda in interior decor.

The article uses materials from the sites ukhouseplants.com, blog.mytastefulspace.com and photos from flickr.com

Botanical description of the plant

The natural habitat of Wood's Ceropegia is extensive and includes:

southern Africa;
northern Australia;
India;
China;
Canary Islands.

Ceropegia Wooda is a liana-shaped perennial succulent that belongs to the Lastovnevye family. The rhizome is tuberous. Thin, heart-shaped leaf plates are located opposite on long, thin shoots. The outer surface of the leaves has a marbled silver pattern, the lower surface is purple.

Small tuberous growths form in the axils of old leaf blades, which play a role in accumulating and retaining moisture. The plant can go without water for a long time, even in drought, thanks to these growths and tuberous thickenings of the roots. The stems look like threads dotted with leaf hearts. They are intertwined and colored purple. Even with home cultivation, the stems can reach a length of 2.5–3 m.

Description Ceropegia variegata

The perennial flower Ceropegia can also be climbing or standing upright. The root of this bush is thick, thanks to this the bush holds a lot of moisture as a reserve in case of not watering for a long time.

The leaves are dense and small, egg-shaped. The juice of this flower is usually clear, like water. The umbrella-shaped inflorescence is of decent size and consists of five-pointed flowers.

In these flowers, the stamens usually grow together into a tube. If we talk about the fruit of this plant, it looks more like a cylinder. This flower has a creeping and fleshy shoot.

This plant blooms almost all year round. This flower has almost no problems with flowering, very rarely. Not all of these bushes have beautiful flowers, so this plant is often attractive for its beautiful leaves. But if you don’t like the flowers, you can easily remove them from the bush.

Species of Ceropegia

There are six most commonly grown species:

Ceropegia africanas . This plant has fleshy stems. Small dense leaves resemble an ovoid shape. Small flowers of a greenish color, the petals of the flower meet at the tops.
Ceropegia barclay . A perennial plant that has rounded roots. The stems are usually bare, but sometimes have a small down. This plant has short, egg-shaped leaves and is greenish in color with white veins. The length reaches 50 mm. The petals are also triangular in shape, slightly pointed towards the top.
Ceropegia wooda . The rhizomes of this bush have a darkish-grayish color. Its stems are a soft purple hue. The leaves are fleshy, they also have a round shape, similar to an egg. On the front side of the leaves you can see a beautiful marble pattern. When this plant grows intensively, you can see its yellow lush tubers. If you take good care of this flower, water it on time and place it in a place where there is good lighting, then this plant will delight you with its beautiful blooms almost all year round. This type of plant can be cared for in the same way as other types of such flowers.
Sanderson's Ceropegia . This perennial plant has thin stems. Large fleshy leaves reach a width of up to 40mm and a length of 50mm. The leaves of this plant are shaped like a heart or an egg. You can see that a convex vein stands out from the center of the reverse. The leaves are bluntly pointed at the end. The shape of the flower's petals is formed by a dome, and is very similar to a parachute. The margin has short white hairs along the edge of the leaf.
Ceropegia stapeliiformes . This bush has thick stems. The leaf blades are very thin; they can also curl inward. Each flower has arched petals. They are white on the outside, with spots of brown or dark brown. Also, the corolla of flowers varies from 50 to 70 mm. At the beginning of the corolla you can see an inflated tube. Each reduced node contains several leaves with two stipules.
There is also a hybrid that is very similar to these listed crops. It is called Ceropegia varieganta . But still there are a lot of differences between them. And at the moment, in our time, experts are not yet thinking of breeding a new species of this plant.

Optimal conditions for growth

Hardy Wood's ceropegia are not at all whimsical in terms of microclimate.

Lighting

In the presence of high-quality illumination, flowering of Ceropegia Wood can continue almost all year round. She is not afraid of short-term contact with direct sunlight. It is better to place plants on the east or west side of the room.

Ventilation

In summer, it is better to move plants to the balcony. In winter, ventilation must be carried out, but drafts must be avoided.

Temperature

Ceropegia is not at all demanding on temperature conditions and tolerates temperature changes from +10°C to +27°C. But to achieve year-round flowering, it is better to maintain a constant temperature within +20. +23°С.

Air humidity

Air humidity can be any. Additional moistening of the space around the plant and spraying are not required even during the driest periods.

Brief description of cultivation

Bloom . With good care and optimal conditions for growth, ceropegia blooms almost all year round, but its flowers are not highly decorative.
Illumination . Needs plenty of bright sunlight. In the summer, during lunch hours, when the sun is most active, the bush needs slight shading.
Temperature regime . During the growing season, the air temperature should be between 20 and 25 degrees. With the beginning of autumn, the temperature should be gradually reduced, and in winter it should be between 14 and 16 degrees, but not lower than 11 degrees.
Watering . In the spring-autumn period, water the plant moderately immediately after the top layer of the soil mixture has dried. In winter, the amount of watering is reduced, and the substrate is moistened only when 3 days have passed since its top layer has dried.
Air humidity . Could be anyone.
Fertilizer . Young bushes do not need to be fed. Adult specimens require regular feeding, which is carried out every 20 days in the spring and summer. To do this, use a solution of mineral fertilizer for orchids or succulents, taking ½ of the dose recommended by the manufacturer. During the autumn-winter period, fertilizers are not added to the soil mixture.
Rest period . Not pronounced, observed in winter.
Transplant . While a young bush is replanted annually in spring, an adult plant does not need frequent replantings; they are carried out only when necessary.
Reproduction . By cuttings, division of rhizomes and seed method.
Diseases . Fungal rot.
Harmful insects . Mealybugs, spider mites and aphids.

Home care

It is difficult to find a more grateful plant than Ceropegia. Even with minimal care, it blooms profusely until autumn.

Watering

You will not need to water this plant often. There is no specific watering schedule - you need to focus on soil moisture. Water is added when the top layer of soil dries 1 cm deep. In summer, watering is carried out approximately once a week, but it can be more often if the air temperature rises above +27°C. In winter, watering should be reduced to a minimum - 1-2 times a month.

It is best to water from the top. Water is poured along the edge of the pot, being careful not to get it on the shoots and leaves. Any liquid that has drained into the pan must be removed immediately. Do not allow the soil to become waterlogged, otherwise the roots may rot. Water for irrigation should be at room temperature. Settled tap water is suitable. It is better not to use boiled water - it contains traces of salts and scale, which can damage the plant.

Top dressing

Fertilizers are applied once a month during the active growing season; in winter they are excluded. As a top dressing, you can use complex preparations intended for cacti, succulents and orchids. The fertilizers “Stimovit for cacti and succulents” and “Stimovit for orchids” have proven themselves well. They are diluted according to the instructions and applied at the root.

Trimming

Ceropegia does not require mandatory pruning. It is carried out if there is a need to shorten shoots that are too elongated, or when a plant needs to be propagated. Shoots play an important role in feeding the plant and storing moisture, so excessive pruning can lead to drying out.

Transfer

Transplantation is carried out in March - April annually until the plant reaches three years of age. Subsequently, transplantation is carried out every 2 years.

Transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method. Pots are selected small in height and wide. The new container should be 1 finger larger in diameter and height than the previous one. The main requirement is a large number of drainage holes. It is better to mix the soil yourself.

To do this, connect:

5 parts leaf-turf soil;
2 parts of plant humus;
1 part peat;
1 part sand.

To increase the looseness of the soil, add 20% perlite and 10% sphagnum moss to the resulting composition. The earth is disinfected with a solution of wood ash: for this, add 1 tbsp to 2 liters of water. l. ashes. The liquid is mixed and brought to a boil, poured immediately hot into the soil and stirred thoroughly. The pots are disinfected using a manganese solution: add 2 g of the substance to 1 liter of water. The day before transplantation, watering is carried out, but not too much.

Expanded clay mixed with foam shavings or perlite is placed in new containers. Drainage should occupy 1/4 of the pot. Then lay 1 cm of soil. The plant is removed from the old container and the roots are examined: if everything is fine, it is moved to a new container. The voids are filled with soil, the surface of the soil around the stems is slightly compacted.

The transplanted plant is left for 5 days in a place where there is high-quality protection from direct sunlight. After this time, you can move the ceropegia to a permanent place and, if necessary, lightly moisten the soil surface.

Watering and air humidity

Ceropegia Woody tolerates drought well because some tubers store water. Excess moisture in the soil often leads to root rot, but you also shouldn’t overdry the lump. The watering regime is also influenced by the conditions of detention. The plant is watered once every 2–4 weeks, after the top layer of soil has dried. In winter, it is necessary to wait an additional 2-3 days before watering. Use settled water at room temperature.

Any excess water that has drained into the pan must be completely drained.

Air humidity does not play a big role for ceropegia. She feels comfortable in any humidity, although she prefers more dry or medium humidity air. Periodically, it can be sprayed or wiped with leaves for hygiene purposes.

At high humidity, it is necessary to carefully monitor the watering regime: there is a high risk of flooding the plant.

Reproduction methods

Wood's ceropegia can be propagated at home in several ways:

Propagation by seeds

Seed material is planted in the spring. The substrate for planting should be light and loose. At this stage, you can use a mixture of sand and peat, adding a little leaf humus - about 20% of the total volume of the mixture. The mixture can be disinfected in the oven at a temperature of +100°C. After disinfection, the soil must be moistened; its structure should be quite loose, but not waterlogged.

Drainage is laid at the bottom of the common container, then soil is placed. The seeds are laid directly on the surface of the soil and sprinkled with sand. The height of the sand layer is about 0.5 cm. Then the plantings are sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass. Germination is carried out at a temperature of +20. +25°С. Every day of planting you need to ventilate by removing the glass for 20 minutes. If necessary, the soil is additionally moistened with a spray bottle.

Seed germination takes an average of 20–25 days. After the sprouts appear, the glass must be removed and the container moved to a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight. Subsequent care is standard. When the sprouts reach a length of 7–10 cm, you need to transplant them into different containers: 2-3 copies are planted in each container.

Cuttings

Cuttings are prepared in early April. High-quality planting material should have 3 nodes. The lower leaves must be removed, and the cuttings themselves must be withered for 3 hours. The lower part of the cuttings is dusted with wood ash. Root the sprouts in damp sand with minimal addition of peat. Humidification is carried out using “Epin”: add 2-3 drops of the drug to 1 liter of water.

This move promotes faster root growth and increases the adaptive abilities of plants. It takes an average of 1.5 months to root cuttings. In mid-summer you can transplant into different containers.

Reproduction by division

This method is used at the time of plant transplantation. When removing the plant, the root system is divided into 2 equal parts and the resulting bushes are planted in separate containers. To speed up adaptation, add “Epin” or “Zircon” to the water for irrigation - 2-3 drops of these drugs.

Reproduction

Ceropegia can be propagated in several ways. Those plants that form aerial nodules are best propagated by cuttings containing them. Can be propagated:

Ordinary cuttings.
Seeds.
By dividing the rhizome.

Cuttings intended for propagation must be dried for two to three days. They should contain from three to five internodes. Then the prepared cuttings need to be pinned to a substrate of peat and sand (sold in flower shops) or to clean, damp sand without internodes mixing with the soil. Be sure to cover with film to create the necessary humidity, but do not forget to ventilate. Place the pot with the shoots in a sunny place.

Possible difficulties during cultivation

When cultivated at home, ceropegia rarely gets sick.

If the substrate is over-moistened, one of two problems may occur:

root rot - in such cases it is rarely possible to completely save the plant; it is better to root the available healthy tubers, leaf or root;
powdery mildew - is eliminated by replanting and removing the affected parts of the plant, the roots are treated with a mixture of wood ash and Fundazol in a 1:1 ratio.

Among the pests, the mealybug can settle on ceropegia. It is eliminated by treating plants and soil with tobacco dust. So, Ceropegia Wood is perfect for landscaping any room. The plant is attractive due to its high decorativeness and unpretentiousness. By following basic care rules, you can achieve year-round flowering.