Miscanthus planting and care in open ground photos in landscape design types and varieties with description - general information

Among ornamental grasses, miscanthus is today's favorite. Magnificent powerful clumps, the ability to grow quickly, luxurious panicles and beauty all year round are their main advantages. Miscanthus adapts well to different conditions and is responsive to humidity levels. Their power, musicality, and texture transform landscapes and set the tone for the entire design. And it is very difficult to replace miscanthus in modern garden design. The only thing that can unpleasantly surprise miscanthuses is aggressiveness. But it can also be easily controlled.

Miscanthus is a decorative grass for ceremonial and background compositions.

Planting and care

The plant has been grown in open ground for a long time and is considered unpretentious. Miscanthus grows well in sunny, well-lit and warm areas. These features must be taken into account when planting. The best time is late spring with well-warmed soil. The place should be protected from drafts and gusts of wind. If this advice is neglected, the branches of the plant will constantly break and will soon lose their decorative effect. Humidity is also of great importance, so it is advisable to choose an area with good humidity for any type of miscanthus.

Growing ornamental grass is possible on any soil that is unsuitable for planting agricultural crops. Adult seedlings with a long growing season are selected for planting. It will begin to grow only when the air temperature begins to reach +25 o C and above, so you should plant it in time so that it can take root before the onset of cold weather.

Since the fan plant has a powerful root system, it is necessary to use a limiter at a depth of 10–15 cm. The edges are raised above the ground by 5–7 cm so that the roots cannot jump over it. The hole should be about 3 times larger than the miscanthus root. The seedling is lowered into the prepared layer of fertile soil, after which everything is compacted. If the soil is poor, you can add organic matter or complex fertilizers. After planting, the plant needs good watering. All roots must be well covered with soil, otherwise the process of drying out will begin, which will stop growth.

Watering and fertilizing

Young seedlings especially need good and regular watering. It is advisable to fill with water on warm and sunny days, directing the hose directly under the bush. You should also avoid getting moisture on the leaves of the plant during watering. Do not water directly from the well with cold water.

Fan grass needs moderate feeding; for example, excess nitrogen often leads to the branches of the plant falling to the ground and losing their upright position. It is best to apply fertilizer in the fall and prepare the soil for planting in advance in September. It is imperative to remove all weeds from there, as they will attack the young miscanthus. He will be able to get stronger in about 2 years. After planting it in the spring, you no longer need to fertilize miscanthus for a year.

In subsequent years, it is recommended to fertilize three times a year. This is done in May in the form of nitrogen-containing fertilizers, for example, urea. Then compost is added in mid-summer and fertilized with a potassium-phosphorus mixture by the end of the summer season.

Preparing for winter

Miscanthus is a fairly resistant plant to various pests and diseases. By the end of summer, many species lose the lower parts of their foliage, which is why its decorative value is significantly reduced. Fan grass is considered a winter-hardy crop, but there are varieties that need shelter for the winter. They are afraid of frosts and strong cold winds, sudden changes in temperature.

It is recommended to make a shelter from film in the form of a hut. The plant will receive air flow from the side, and you need to add several wooden boards on top. They will help protect against precipitation. Miscanthus roots should be covered with a thick layer of loose soil to prevent them from freezing over the winter. Such measures are very important, since a sharp cold snap will have a detrimental effect on the plant.

Miscanthus after flowering

There are types of miscanthus that are frost-resistant, while others simply need good shelter for the winter. If you have planted a fairly delicate variety of such an ornamental grass, then you will have to provide it with protection both from frost and from sudden changes in temperature. In the case when it gradually gets colder outside, the grass may have time to adapt, but if the frost is unexpected, then the bushes die in most cases. In order to protect such ornamental plants, it is necessary to cover the bushes with a film, placing it in a hut, while air must flow from the side parts under the cover. Then, on top of the film, you need to install 2 wooden shields, also like a hut. However, before covering the miscanthus, it is necessary to cover the area where it grows with a very thick layer of mulch, which can be any loose soil.

Landing

Planting a plant is not difficult. Compliance with basic rules guarantees the rapid rooting and development of ornamental grass.

Optimal timing

An important condition for planting a plant is well-warmed soil. It all depends on the region

In the south you can start planting at the end of March, in central Russia - at the end of April or mid-May.

Selecting a location

For good growth and development, miscanthus needs to choose a sunny and well-protected place from drafts. The plant loves moisture, so if there is a pond on the site, it is better to plant the bush near it or provide good watering. Many varieties grow well in dry places, but their sizes may differ slightly from the declared varietal characteristics to a lesser extent.

Instructions

Only adult seedlings need to be purchased for planting in open ground. The plant has a long growth period, and the young seedling will not have enough time to acclimatize before the onset of cold weather. An adult specimen will be able to adapt normally to a new place and calmly endure the winter. Before purchasing, you should carefully inspect the bush. There should be no damage or signs of disease on the roots and stems. Landing rules:

the place for miscanthus must be prepared in advance, dug well and weeds removed;
immediately before planting, it is necessary to moisten the seedlings with warm water;
prepare planting holes 20–30 cm deep, the distance between them (when planting several specimens) should be approximately 1 m;
to control the growth of the bush, you can fence the holes on the sides with slate or small boards;
Put compost at the bottom of the holes and mix with soil;
place the seedlings in the holes, fill the space with soil and lightly compact;
water at the root.

Growing Miscanthus from Seeds

Miscanthus seeds photo

Sowing miscanthus for seedlings should begin in the fall. Seeds do not require pre-treatment.

Place 1-2 seeds in individual containers (peat pots or plastic cups) and lightly press them into the soil.
Moisten the crops, maintain optimal soil moisture, and provide diffuse lighting.
To speed up seed germination, crops can be covered with cling film or a plastic bag.
When shoots appear, the film is removed.

Miscanthus growing from seeds photo seedlings

To prevent the seedlings from stretching out, especially in the first 2 weeks, it is advisable to ensure an air temperature of 18-20°C; on short daylight hours, it is necessary to supplement the illumination with phytolamps.
Grow the seedlings until spring, providing moderate watering and diffused bright lighting.
Planting in open ground should be carried out with the establishment of real warmth without night frosts, this is approximately mid-to-late May.
Before planting in the ground, accustom the seedlings to sunlight and wind, taking them outside to a place protected from drafts. First, they are taken out for a couple of hours, increasing the length of stay on the street every day. At the end, the seedlings must spend the night outside.

Hardened seedlings will tolerate transplantation into the ground without any problems and will immediately begin to grow. Try to plant without disturbing the earthen ball. And so that the pots can be easily removed from the roots, you need to moderately water the plants a day before planting and let the soil become damp.

Miscanthus propagation by dividing the bush

How to divide a miscanthus bush photo

Dividing the bush can be done no more than once every 3 years. The plant tolerates the procedure painfully. The optimal time for replanting is early spring or early summer. Dig up the bush, carefully divide it into several parts (each should have a strong root system and young stems). It is advisable to plant all the divisions at once. If necessary, the cuttings can be stored for several days in a cool room. After planting, the bushes will “sit in place” for a long time. Don't be alarmed, this is a normal process.

Miscanthus division ready for planting photo

An excellent option is to purchase a seedling from a nursery or specialty store. Take mature seedlings, since young ones may not have time to take root before the onset of winter cold. Carefully inspect for damage, signs of disease and pests. The soil in the container should be moderately moist.

Reproduction methods

Periwinkle - planting and care in open ground

When growing miscanthus from seed, varietal characteristics are not preserved. Therefore, the most common type of propagation is dividing the bush. This method is used in early spring:

Dig out a large healthy mother bush.
Divide it into parts with a sharp knife so that each has a developed root system with healthy petioles.
All cuttings are planted simultaneously in holes 90 cm deep. If necessary, planting can be delayed for three days by placing the bushes in a cool place.

Important! Miscanthus is not a fan of frequent transplants. You should resort to this method of reproduction no more than once every 3-4 years.

The plant is resistant to all kinds of diseases and pest invasions. For preventive purposes, once a year it is possible to treat with a solution with fungicidal properties.

Description of tall reed Miscanthus

Miscanthus giganteum is one of the most interesting representatives of ornamental grasses. The name comes from the Greek words “mischos” - stem and “anthos” - flower and is associated with the way the spikelets are attached.

The tall Miscanthus reed reaches a height of 80 to 350 cm in height, usually forming large turfs with creeping rhizomes

When describing miscanthus, special attention should be paid to its panicles (or plumes). They are very attractive, have several shades of color: from pink to silver-white, depending on the type and variety.

About 40 species of this genus are distributed in tropical, subtropical and warm-temperate zones of Asia, Africa and Australia.

In the 19th century, like other ornamental grasses, miscanthus already experienced a peak of popularity in England and America. Back then, large herbs such as miscanthus and cortaderia fit perfectly into the overall picture of Victorian gardens.

Subsequently, landscape architects began to be wary of exotic hobbies, as they believed that because of this, more modest, but no less attractive plants of the European flora could remain undeservedly forgotten.

For a long time, the value of cereals was determined only from the standpoint of their practical benefits. And only a few decades later, the world-famous German gardener Karl Forster began to actively advocate the widespread use of cereals in floriculture and landscape design. Since then, ornamental grasses have become an integral element in garden design. Among them, the leading place is occupied by miscanthus flowers, which have many advantages. Their stems are infinitely resilient and elastic. Even the strongest wind can bend them to the ground, but not break them.

And for lovers of Japanese motifs in the garden, miscanthuses are absolutely irreplaceable. Similar to bamboo, they will help to create and express the necessary mood of complete detachment from the bustle of the world and to some extent compensate for the excessive desire to decorate the garden.

These reeds decorate the banks of reservoirs; they are planted separately or in groups in mixborders, rockeries, and near lawns. Almost all miscanthus have a long period of decorativeness - from spring to late winter. In autumn, their foliage turns various shades of yellow, brown, and burgundy. The unusually beautiful miscanthus inflorescences are used to create dry floral arrangements. An excellent plant for creating coulisses.

The miscanthus plant is a perennial of the Bluegrass family. The height of miscanthus varies from eighty centimeters to two meters. Usually the thickets form loose and large turfs. The rhizome of the plant is creeping.

As can be seen in the photo, the shoots of miscanthus flowers are erect, at the base they are covered with leathery leaves of a linear or lanceolate-linear shape:

The leaves of this plant are scale-like and hard. Miscanthus panicles are fan-shaped, their lateral branches are long, and the common spine is greatly shortened. The length of one panicle is about ten to thirty centimeters. Miscanthus is extremely popular due to its beauty and the variety of varieties in which it is presented. When grown, miscanthus adapts to a wide variety of conditions, and therefore is valued by designers when creating ornamental gardens and lawns.

Next you can see the photo and description of Chinese and sugar miscanthus.

Characteristics of Miscanthus: varieties and varieties

There are many species and varieties of Miscanthus, which are characterized by different requirements for care and external growing conditions.

Miscanthus sugarflower or Miscanthus sugarflower most often grows in areas with high humidity. The height of the cereal reaches 2 meters. The leaf blades are thin and have a pale green color. The panicles are silvery with a pink tint.

Chinese reed

This is a heat-loving representative of the flower with the most intense growing season. The flowering period under favorable conditions begins in July and continues until the onset of frost. The variety tolerates extreme cold well and does not require the construction of special shelters. Before the temperature drops, it is advisable to mulch the soil around with hay or finely mown grass.

Sugar variety

Miscanthus giganteum - a variety bred by breeders, is a complex hybrid plant. Tall, erect shoots reach 3 meters, drooping leaves are narrow - only 25 mm wide.

The leaf blade is dark green, with a central white stripe. Externally, the culture resembles a fountain. During the flowering period, the plant develops pale pink panicles, which turn silver towards the end of the process.

Attention! When it gets cold, this species may not bloom. It is best to plant this species in the back of the yard, as at the end of summer the lower leaves dry out and have an unpresentable appearance.

It is best to plant this species in the back of the yard, as in late summer the lower leaves dry out and become unpresentable.

Miscanthus gigantea

Planting miscanthus in the ground

The optimal time for planting the plant in a permanent place in open ground is April. The soil must be warmed up.

Planting time may vary, as it depends on the climatic characteristics of the region.

Fantail is one of those plants that love warmth and sunlight.

When choosing a location on a site, it is important to remember these features. Thus, a well-lit area would be the best option.

It is also important that it is well protected from drafts, as gusts of wind can damage the plant. Fantail is not particularly picky about soil composition

It grows well in moist, nutritious soil

Fantail is not particularly picky about the composition of the soil. It grows well in moist, nutritious soil.

It is often planted near bodies of water. The soil should be neutral or slightly acidic.

Loams and sandy soils are bad options.

It is best to take care of the site for miscanthus in the fall.

If the time for preparing the soil is missed, you can do this no later than 2 weeks before planting the plant.

The soil needs to be dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet and humus added. In the spring, before planting, loosen the area again.

Proper planting of fantail seedlings

Dig holes that correspond to the size of the seedling's root system.
Carefully place the seedling, straighten the roots.
Add soil and compact it so that the plant stays firmly in the ground.
Water generously with room temperature water.
Fan grass has the ability to grow quickly, so you need to dig pieces of metal or slate around the plant to a depth of at least 30 cm. They should protrude 10-15 cm above the surface.

It is important to choose the right distance between plants. At this distance, each plant will have enough sunlight

At this distance, each plant will have enough sunlight.

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Miscanthus shelter for the winter

Frost-resistant varieties successfully winter in open ground even in the harshest conditions.

The rest will need shelter for the winter.

Do this before frost sets in, as the bushes may die from sudden temperature changes. The bushes should be hilled up and the tree trunk should be mulched with fallen leaves or peat. Build something like a hut: cover it with film, leaving holes on the sides for air circulation, and place wooden boards on top. Remove the shelter with the onset of spring warmth. Trim brown leaves and stems.

Main types of miscanthus

Miscanthus (lat. Miscanthus) is a perennial plant of the Bluegrass family, its height ranges from 80 cm to 3 m. It has strong creeping rhizomes that spread to a depth of 6 m. The shoots are erect, with leathery leaves, from 5 mm to 1 mm wide. 8 cm and fan-shaped panicles from 10 to 30 cm long, consisting of spikelets.

Next, we will consider the main and most common types of miscanthus and their description.

Miscanthus gigantea

Giant miscanthus (Miscanthus giganteus) - the species has an erect shape, reaches a height of 3 m. Leaves up to 2.5 cm wide extend in different directions from the main stem and give the effect of a large fountain. They have a color characteristic of all miscanthus: dark green, with a white stripe in the middle of the leaf.

It blooms in August, but may not bloom in short or cold summers. Flowering panicles first have a pinkish tint, then become silvery. The lower leaves often turn brown and die off by the end of summer, which slightly spoils the decorative appearance, so it is advisable to place the plant not in the foreground of the lawn.

The relatively winter-hardy giant miscanthus prefers the sun, although it can tolerate a little shade.

The plant looks great near a pond and is suitable for use as a plant “screen” or background accent.

Miscanthus chinensis

Miscanthus chinensis is found in the wild in China, Japan, Korea and Russia. This is a tall (up to 3 m) perennial with a loose bush and short rhizome. The leaves are hard and rough, linear, 1.5 cm wide.

Chinese miscanthus blooms with single-flowered paniculate spikelets up to 0.7 cm long.
The Chinese miscanthus species includes more than 100 varieties, the most common of which are: Blondeau, Zebrinus, Ferner Austin, Morning Light and Strictus.
Miscanthus Zebrinus has a rather attractive appearance due to its variegated leaves. The leaves are narrow-linear, typically hard, rough, about 10 mm wide. In summer the leaves are green with a transverse white stripe; in autumn the color of the leaves ranges from yellow to burgundy. It blooms in October with a reddish-bronze color, the inflorescences are collected in spikes up to 1 cm long. This variety takes root well in various garden soils and is quite resistant to drought and wind.

Miscanthus Strictus loves open sunny places, does not bloom in the shade and does not tolerate stagnant water. This perennial reaches 2.5 m in height and about 2 m in width. The leaves are long (up to 2 m), green with yellow stripes along the length of the leaf. It blooms in mid-September with a reddish-bronze color. The plant is unpretentious in care.

Miscanthus Strictus is used in single and group plantings, as well as when creating flower arrangements.

Today, these two types of Chinese miscanthus are the most popular among florists and amateur gardeners in the middle zone. Thanks to the beautiful and unusual coloring of burgundy-bronze and red inflorescences, plants are widely used to create original landscape compositions.

Miscanthus sucrose

Miscanthus sugarflower grows in moist soils from the Amur region to the south of the Primorsky Territory of Russia, as well as in Northeast China, Japan and Korea. The popular name of the species is Amur silver grass. The plant reaches a height of 1.5 to 3 m, has bare stems, linear pale green drooping leaves, up to 90 cm long and 1.5 cm wide.

Miscanthus sugarflower blooms from July with white, pink and silver paniculate inflorescences 25-40 cm in length. This type of miscanthus is quite heat-loving; it begins to develop in late spring, then grows intensively throughout the warm summer season.

Although the plant is quite cold-resistant, a quiet wintering is possible in places where miscanthus grows in nature, that is, in the subtropics and tropics. In temperate latitudes and in the middle zone, in the absence of snow, it is advisable to mulch the area for the winter.

The most popular variety of Miscanthus sugarflower is Robustus - the largest representative of the genus, which is found in the wild on river banks and in damp meadows, where it forms dense thickets.

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Botanical description

The creeping rhizome is capable of penetrating deep into the soil up to 6 m. The shrubs are spreading. The erect stems range in height from 80 cm to 2 m. The leaf blades are leathery, scaly, long, only 0.5-1.8 cm wide. The lush green color in the fall gives way to yellow, brown, bronze, and burgundy shades. The fan-shaped panicles are 10-30 cm long. At the beginning of flowering they have a pinkish tint, then become silvery. The flowering period occurs in mid-July-early August, if the summer is cool - even later.

The plant is hardy and easy to care for. Even a novice gardener can cope with this; in return, the grass will be a wonderful addition to your garden.

Benefits and harms

In addition to decorative properties, miscanthus has practical significance. It is used as fuel for power plants. The moisture concentration in the raw material is low, therefore, during combustion, a large amount of energy is released, while little ash is formed.

It should be remembered that miscanthus is an aggressive plant that displaces other garden crops and quickly grows in width. To limit the growth of the grass, root growth limiters must be dug in around the perimeter: up to 30 cm in depth, it is advisable to create an obstacle to a height of 5-10 cm above the ground surface.

Types and varieties of miscanthus

Giant Miscanthus (Miscanthus giganteus)

Most likely, it is a complex hybrid that has long been familiar to gardeners, but whose origin can only be guessed at. Its erect stems reach a height of 3 m, weeping dark green leaves with a white stripe along the midrib up to 25 cm wide, extending from the stem in all directions, make the plant look like a large fountain. This species blooms in late summer with pinkish panicles, which become silvery over time, and in areas with cold summers, giant miscanthus may not bloom at all.

Most often this view is used as an accent in the background. It requires camouflage of the lower part of the stems due to the leaves dying off in the second half of summer.

Chinese Miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis)

It grows naturally in China, Korea, Japan and Russia. This is a perennial grass with a loose bush, short rhizome and erect stems up to 3 m high. Its leaves are linear, hard and rough, up to 1.5 cm wide, with a rough rib along the midrib. It blooms with single-flowered spikelets up to 7 mm long, collected in loose panicles. The species has been in cultivation since 1875, its winter hardiness is relative, so dry shelter and mulching for the winter are mandatory.

Chinese miscanthus is the most popular species in cultivation; today more than a hundred of its varieties are known, which differ in the color and shape of the inflorescences, the size and outline of the bush. Among them there are both heat-loving plants and those that can be safely grown in the middle zone. For example:

Blondo - bush height up to 2 m, cold-resistant - winters without shelter;
Variegatus is a loose bush no more than one and a half meters high with white longitudinal stripes on the leaves;
Miscanthus Zebrinus, sometimes called Miscanthus Zebrina, is a variegated plant with transverse yellow stripes along green leaves;
Ferner Austin - up to one and a half meters high, narrow graceful green leaves have a white stripe along the midrib, changing color to reddish-red in the fall. Blooming in August, the fan-shaped bright red panicles with white tips gradually turn silvery-bronze;
Morning Light is a graceful low plant with narrow leaves edged with white. Unfortunately, this variety blooms late and not every year;
Strictus is a miscanthus up to 270 cm high with bright variegated leaves up to 1.5 cm wide, along which transverse bright white and green stripes alternate, and reddish single-flowered spikelets in loose panicles.

Miscanthus sacchariflonis (Miscanthus sacchariflonis)

It grows in Russia in damp areas from the Amur region to the south of the Primorsky Territory, as well as in Korea, China and Japan. This is a plant up to 2 m high with bare stems, linear light green drooping leaves up to 60 cm long and up to 1.5 cm wide, blooming with white or silver-pink panicles up to 25 cm long. Since this species is heat-loving, its development begins in late spring, but throughout the warm season, Miscanthus sucrose grows intensively. It blooms from July and remains decorative until October.

It is cold-resistant, overwinters without shelter, but mulching the area in case there is no snow is advisable. The most popular form is Robustus - a plant larger than the main species.

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Mistancus care

A gardener's biggest fear is seeing miscanthus drying up. Therefore, we must not forget about abundant watering of the ornamental plant, especially on dry days. Don’t be afraid to water the plant with a hose; miscanthus reacts positively to such procedures.

We must not forget about fertilizing. Miscanthus loves them, but overuse of fertilizers can lead to bad results. For example, if there is an excess amount of nitrogen in fertilizers, an ornamental plant will lie down. The main thing is that feeding is moderate and regular.

The first time feeding is carried out after a year of plant life. Afterwards, miscanthus is fertilized twice a season. At the beginning of May, nitrogen fertilizer with urea solution. In June or early July, the area is watered with humates, and at the end of July or August, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied.

When growing miscanthus, many gardeners have problems with an excessive amount of weeds. Basically, they appear from planting until two years of life. After this, the appearance of weeds is reduced, since the root system of miscanthus becomes strong and densely growing. The weeds will not have the strength to break through such a blockade.

Another pleasant moment in caring for mistancus. The plant does not require loosening due to the density of the root system.

You should monitor the growth of the plant. Although it is decorative, if its growth is not stopped in time, then there will be nothing left on your summer cottage except this picturesque reed. I offer a convenient way to track. Before or after planting, the boundaries of miscanthus germination are outlined.

You can use pieces of iron or plywood to separate the boundaries. They need to be dug along the entire perimeter of the site to a depth of twenty centimeters. They should look out from under the ground at a height of ten centimeters. The roots will not be able to penetrate beyond the fence.

By the end of summer, miscanthus begins to thin out. Some varieties lose the lower layers of leaves and stipules, and the plant may lose its decorative appearance.

The host helps solve this problem. It needs to be planted fifty to sixty centimeters in length. It gets along well with miscanthus, as it also loves excess humidity.

Secrets of caring for miscanthus

Fantail grows for many years (up to 25-30) and does not require special care. However, it has several features that make it very different from other plants. They are associated with the characteristics of feeding and preparation for the winter period.

Watering and fertilizing fan grass

Fantail is quite moisture-loving, so in dry times it needs abundant watering. If the soil on the surface of the plant is dry to the touch, this is a clear sign of the need for watering. And dry, cracked soil should not be allowed to grow at all. It is necessary to water in warm weather, but it is better not to allow water to get on the leaves - this way they can be burned by the sun and dry out quickly.

As for feeding, fantail has a feature that distinguishes it from many garden plants - in the first year it is not fed at all, and starting from the second season, small portions of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. A weak urea solution is good for organic fertilizers. If you overfeed the soil, the leaves of the cereal may lie on the ground.

Disease prevention and pest protection

Weeds like to settle next to miscanthus, which take away water and nutrients from it. You need to prepare for the fact that in the first year or two, weeding the plot will be a constant task. But starting from the 3rd year, the roots and foliage grow so much that almost all the weeds die due to the strong shadow of the fan.

In order to prevent weeds from “strangling” young shoots, it is necessary to treat the soil with special herbicide solutions at the very beginning of the season (April-May).

As for pests or diseases, fantail has a fairly strong immunity to them. However, it is still necessary to treat green leaves with a solution of fungicides, since miscanthus is often affected by rust, a leaf disease that is provoked by fungal microorganisms.

Preparing the plant for winter

Since the plant is found in the wild in warm places, in the Russian winter it needs additional protection from frost. This is especially true for varieties that do not have sufficient frost resistance.

In autumn, you need to especially monitor the weather forecast, since sharp frosts can destroy the roots of the plant. You need to prepare it for the cold period in advance. To do this you need to do the following:

Before you start work, you need to mulch the surface and put a fairly thick layer of loose soil (maybe along with fallen leaves) - this way you can reliably protect the roots from freezing. Cover the plant with film so that the overlap between different fragments is at least 30 cm. Fasten the film fragments with a stapler, thread or tape. Place stones, bricks or any other solid objects on the base so that the structure cannot be blown away by the wind.

How to properly care?

Caring for miscanthus should be especially careful until the plant is 3-4 years old, since the development of the crop depends on the procedures performed. Further, all activities will mainly work on the decorativeness of the bush.

Watering

Irrigation of plantings should be regular and plentiful. It is better to focus on the condition of the soil and adjust the procedure depending on the circumstances. If the summer is dry, then the fan has to be watered every day, sometimes even in the morning and evening. The moisture should go 30-40 centimeters deep so that the root system receives the required amount of liquid. Watering, like spraying, should be done either early in the morning or late in the evening so that the combination of bright sunlight and liquid on the surface does not cause burns. To care for thick stems, it is quite possible to use a garden hose. Despite the fact that the crop reacts very poorly to drought, stagnation of moisture in the soil will also be detrimental to the roots.

Top dressing

As a rule, in the first year of life, miscanthus has enough of the fertilizers that were applied during planting. Starting next year, fertilizing should occur a couple of times every season. In mid-May, two tablespoons of urea are diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water and used for irrigation so that nitrogen promotes the development of green mass. At the beginning of June, it is recommended to apply a solution of humates, following the attached instructions. Finally, in the second half of summer you should feed the fantail with a product containing potassium and phosphorus to stimulate flowering.

Loosening and mulching

Mulching the soil is necessary in order to retain moisture inside, but not to promote the formation of an earthen crust. Mulch also helps protect against weeds. The main material used is humus, peat, freshly cut young nettles, dandelion greens or other weeds. The mulch layer is at least 3 centimeters. Loosening is carried out after irrigation and promotes better movement of oxygen to the root system.

Weeding

Weeds must be removed in the first years of miscanthus’s life, until the plant is strong enough to resist the weeds on its own. It is better to carry out weeding a couple of times a week, accompanying the procedure by loosening the soil. An adult miscanthus, that is, one that is 3-4 years old, will cope with the “competitors” on its own.

Trimming

To make miscanthus bushes look beautiful, simple pruning in the spring, when last year's stems are removed, is sufficient. In the fall, such a procedure should not be carried out, since if moisture penetrates into the remaining “stumps” in winter, the root system will begin to rot.

Wintering

The frost resistance of most varieties of miscanthus is such that it can easily withstand cold temperatures down to -20 degrees, but when the temperature decreases, it still requires additional measures. Both young and adult plants must be mulched before the first frost. The mulch layer should be from 10 to 15 centimeters and consist of peat, sawdust, compost or fallen leaves. When severe frosts are expected, the upper part of the bush is wrapped in a special non-woven material, which is then tied at the base of the hummock. If the region has cold winters, then a complete shelter can be made for the shrub from plastic film, boards, dry leaves and sphagnum.

Preparing seedlings

The most common way to grow jasmine in the garden is with seeds. They are easy to sow in open ground, in beds or in a flower bed. This method is convenient to use for annual catharanthus varieties. In the first year, you need to purchase seeds of a suitable variety, after which the plants can reproduce by self-sowing. You can also collect them after flowering and sow them the next year.

Propagation of catharanthus by seeds includes several stages:

selection of seeds;
seedling preparation;
placing seedlings in open ground;
caring for the plant as it grows.

Seed selection

To prepare seedlings you will need high-quality seeds. They are small, dark, and sold in sets of 100 pieces. It is worth choosing large, whole seeds without damage. They should not show signs of mold, fungal or other diseases. This plant has a high germination rate, but not all seeds are viable even after careful selection. Therefore, you can safely prepare 2–3 times more planting material than is required for landscaping a flower garden, depending on its quality.

Poll: Poll: What do you like most about Catharanthus? Beauty 70%

Variety of species and varieties 0%

Smell 30%

I don't like catharanthus. 0%

Voted: 10

Growing seedlings

Seeds must be sown in warm, well-warmed soil. In a temperate climate this is impossible, so the seedlings begin to be prepared in advance in a warm room. This could be a greenhouse, a balcony or a room with a temperature of 20 degrees and high humidity. The process involves several stages and begins at the end of winter.

Sowing seeds for seedlings occurs in the middle or end of February. They are placed in common boxes or in small holes, several at a time, to a depth of 1–2 cm. The soil should be loose, nutritious and moderately moist. The first shoots usually appear within 2–3 weeks.
Picking seedlings - carried out when the first 2-3 leaves appear on most seedlings. The largest and most viable specimens are transplanted into separate small containers filled with nutrient soil. They are further grown to be planted in open ground in the spring. Non-viable, too small and damaged seedlings will not be needed.
Growing seedlings is a period that lasts about 2 months. At this time, it is necessary to water the plants regularly. In spring, you can periodically take them out onto the balcony. This way the seedlings will get used to the coolness, wind and other factors that they will encounter in the open ground.

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