The best ways to propagate climbing roses in spring and summer

Spring and summer are the most favorable periods for the propagation of climbing roses. And young plants planted in open ground have time to fully take root and gain strength before the onset of the first frost.

• 1.1 By cuttings
  1.1.1 Video: how to propagate a rose by cuttings

• 2 Aftercare
• 3 Professional tips
• 4 Reviews

Propagation by lignified cuttings

Lignified cuttings should be harvested in late autumn, during the process of pruning rose bushes.
Rooting such planting material is quite a troublesome task, but quite feasible in the conditions of home gardening. During a warm winter period, it is possible to preserve rose bushes without freezing, and lignified cuttings from parent plants can be cut even in the spring. If the planting material was cut in the autumn, when preparing the plants for winter, then the cuttings can be taken:

• store until spring with further rooting in a special cuttings or greenhouse;
• plant directly into the ground in the fall, before the onset of cold weather;
• root in seedling containers at home.

The cuttings should have approximately 6-8 eyes and have a thickness of 0.4-0.5 cm. All planting material should be cut from the middle part of the shoot, making an oblique lower and straight upper cut using a sharp and absolutely clean garden knife. Also, ready-made cuttings can be placed in damp moss, as well as polyethylene or peat, which will allow the planting material to be stored on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator until spring and planting in a permanent place.

Rooting in water

If you decide to root the cuttings in water, you must use only boiled water, which must be changed 2 times a week. Place the jar in a warm, illuminated place and monitor the temperature. Rooting is easy to notice by the formation of a root system. The rooted cuttings can be planted in nutrient soil.

As a rule, rooting occurs in mid-September. By this time, the seedlings have built up a strong root system and are ready to be transplanted to a permanent location.

When propagating climbing roses by cuttings, you must remember that in order to obtain the desired result, you should provide the plant with proper care and attention:

• constant air temperature – 23–26 degrees;
• good lighting;
• Covering material cannot be removed before rooting.

You can also harvest cuttings in the fall, after pruning the mother bush. To do this: cut healthy woody seedlings 15 cm long, remove all foliage, make an oblique cut under the lower bud and leave until spring in damp moss or sand at a temperature no higher than 3 degrees.

Aftercare

After planting rooted cuttings in open ground, they require standard care: watering (as the top soil layer dries out), fertilizing, loosening the soil and removing weeds. When the bush grows, they begin to do formative pruning to give the crown a decorative appearance.

When choosing fertilizers for roses, consider the following factors:

• phosphorus is needed for abundant flowering;
• magnesium promotes chlorophyll synthesis;
• potassium is important for maintaining water balance in tissues;
• nitrogen stimulates the growth of green mass;
• calcium has a positive effect on the development of the root system.

Therefore, the complex is selected as rich as possible. Feed roses 2 times before flowering and the same amount after flowering. After watering and fertilizing, the root space should be mulched with peat or humus. In early spring, rose bushes are treated with contact-acting insecticidal preparations. For the winter, young plants are covered with leaves and other plant debris from the garden.

Features of care after flowering

What to do when the roses have faded

With the beginning of the autumn period, you should begin preparing roses for the winter period. From the last days of August, you need to completely stop watering and loosening the soil and start feeding with potassium instead of nitrogen. The upper part of unripe stems must be removed. Such roses must be covered for the winter, but first they are removed from the supporting structure and placed on the surface of the soil. It is very easy to place a young plant on the ground. It is not easy to lay an adult specimen on the ground, and this can take up to 7 days. It must be remembered that at sub-zero temperatures the shoots become fragile and can break.

How to cover climbing roses for the winter

You need to cover the plant when the air temperature drops below minus 5 degrees. This should not be done earlier, because the flowers must harden, and they may also begin to rot or grow (which is associated with a long stay under cover without air). Sheltering should be done in non-rainy, windless weather. You need to remove the leaves from the removed shoots, cut off the damaged stems, tie the lashes using a rope, and then carefully place them on the litter. To create it, you can use dry leaves or spruce branches. Do not place the plant on bare soil. Press or fix the plant on the surface of the soil, and cover it with dry leaves or grass, or you can also use spruce branches. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with soil or sand, and then cover the plant with lutrasil, polyethylene film, roofing felt or other material that cannot get wet. There should be a layer of air between the plant and the shelter.

Which method to choose

Thanks to the tireless work of breeders, many varieties of roses have appeared that are perfectly acclimatized even in the climate of the Moscow region and Siberia. There are two known types of climbing flowers - multi-flowered (producing simultaneously up to 20 buds with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm each) and large-flowered (with 10 buds, similar to hybrid tea varieties).

Climbing roses are most often propagated by cuttings, by budding, or by layering. Since a plant obtained from seeds cannot have parental characteristics, this method is used extremely rarely in practice. Next, we will consider each of the main methods in more detail.

Propagation by cuttings

Reproduction by this method is possible with subsequent rooting of the shoots both in soil or water, and in a bag or potato. In order to propagate beautiful climbing roses from cuttings in summer or spring, shoots should be prepared. In the spring, the middle part with 3 live buds is taken from the shoot. You need to make a cut at the bottom at an angle of 45°, and at the top at an angle of 90°. The top of the leaf is shortened by half its length or even more.

Rooting can be done in a container with boiled water. The cutting is placed in it and placed in a place where it is shaded from the sun. The water must be changed every other day. In about a month, the seedling will have grown roots and will be ready to be planted in a permanent place. A problem with such rooting can be rotting of the shoot due to lack of oxygen.

Rooting of the resulting cuttings is often carried out immediately in the ground. To prevent rotting, sand scalded with boiling water and having large fractions is used. The cuttings should be covered with a glass jar, white material should be placed on top, or the container should be painted with water-based emulsion of the same color. Rooting occurs at a temperature of +23…+25 °C and periodic ventilation of the “greenhouse”. In order to propagate a rose by cuttings planted in potatoes, one digs a trench more than 15 cm deep. Having first filled the bottom with sand, a shoot about 20 cm in size without foliage and thorns is placed there. The eyes are removed from the potato to prevent it from starting to grow. A piece of tin or the same glass jar can serve as a shelter. When using a plastic bag, the cuttings are first moistened with aloe juice. Placed in a pot and watered with warm water, they are wrapped in a bag and hung near the window.

Reproduction by budding

Knowing how to propagate a climbing rose from cuttings, you can try other methods. Budding, unlike cuttings, can be carried out by gardeners with extensive practical experience. The concept itself comes from the Latin word oculus, which means “eye”. The essence of the method is to increment the scion to the rootstock in the presence of dormant buds. Budding is most often used only for large-flowered varieties - such as roses of the Climber class, New Dawn and Metanoia species.

Reproduction by layering

Obtaining a new crop in summer or spring is also possible with the help of layering. It is necessary to use those shoots that grow at the root collar. At the beginning of March, they are placed in prepared shallow grooves by bending them down, then covered with loose soil on top. In this case, the upper parts of the shoots must be outside. In those places where they touch the ground, you need to make ring cuts in order to stimulate the flow of nutrients.

Although the root system of the cuttings is formed by autumn, their separation cannot be carried out before next spring, and in the case of weak plants this is done after a year. In the climate of our country, the tops of climbing roses inevitably die off if they are not covered with snow. In this regard, shoots that are planned to be used as layering in the spring must be bent to the soil and covered with soil.

How to propagate Chinese rose

To propagate hibiscus, which is another name for the Chinese rose, only cuttings are suitable. You need to cut off shoots that have 2 or 3 internodes. Cuttings can be taken exclusively from the top of the plant and only between July and August. They need to be placed in a home greenhouse. In such conditions, roots will quickly appear. As a greenhouse, you can use an ordinary flower pot, which is covered with a glass jar or plastic bottle with a cut bottom.

In loose soil, Chinese rose cuttings begin to develop roots within a month. Various manuals on how to propagate roses by cuttings in the fall say that after the rhizome appears, the plant should be immediately transplanted into a spacious pot. It is better if the diameter of the container is at least 9 cm. Next, you need to regularly water the plant with warm water.

If you need a lush bush shape, then the tip of each side shoot should be pinched from the developed cuttings. With sufficient care, a shoot can develop into a mature and flowering plant in one year. At the same time, the rose needs sufficient sunlight.

You can replant the Chinese rose for the second time in the spring. The pot needs to be filled with a nutrient mixture, which includes four parts of turf, three of foliage, and one each of humus and sand. Numerous sources provide advice on how to propagate and care for domestic roses. In order for young shoots to grow better, you need to cut each branch by a third. This should be done only after transplantation. It is at the ends of young shoots that hibiscus buds appear.

Seeds

Have you thought about planting climbing roses in open ground? Then you should familiarize yourself with information about the methods by which this plant is propagated. If you want to get it from seeds, you need to buy planting material in the store. They are placed in a sieve, which is lowered into a bowl. You need to pour hydrogen peroxide into it. This allows the seeds to be disinfected. During stratification, the likelihood of mold appearing will be much lower.

After this, you need to moisten a cotton pad with hydrogen peroxide. Prepared seeds are placed on it. They are covered with a second, equally impregnated disk. Each pair must be placed in a separate plastic bag. You need to write on them the name of the variety and the date. You need to transfer all the bags into a separate container and place it in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator.

Check the condition of the seeds. If you notice mold, treat the seed again with hydrogen peroxide. Use new cotton pads for this.

After one and a half or even two months, the seeds will germinate. They need to be transferred to individual peat tablets or miniature pots. The surface should be mulched with a small layer of perlite. Seedlings should be in a lighted place for 10 hours a day. After two months, the first buds will appear on the plants. After another month they will bloom. Climbing rose seedlings need proper watering. The soil is moistened as it dries.

When to plant climbing roses grown from seeds? This needs to be done in the spring. Consider the characteristics of your climate. The warmer it is, the sooner this can be done.

When is the best time to take rose cuttings?

The first question that arises before a gardener is: when to plant cuttings in order to get strong, healthy roses.

Did you know? An interesting variety of roses, “Chameleon,” was developed in Japan. During the day, the flowers delight with a bright red hue, and at night they change color to snow-white.

The optimal period is June-July, during the budding phase, when the shoots are only slightly lignified. If the cutting process begins earlier, the solid substance will turn out to be immature. At the next stage, the awakening of the buds begins, and all the plant’s forces will be spent on their development, and not on the formation of the root system.

In addition, in the summer, roses take root faster and begin to grow intensively.

In some varieties, the root system takes too long to form, and it seems that development is not happening. Such seedlings can “sleep” for months. For these roses, the optimal time for vegetative propagation is autumn.

Some gardeners advise cuttings to be carried out in the fall, after pruning. This is explained simply: the plant is preparing for a period of dormancy and accumulates nutrients as much as possible.

Propagation by cuttings

You won't surprise anyone by propagating roses from cuttings - this is the easiest and most effective way. In summer, you need to choose the most suitable twig - it should not be a thick, lignified shoot; a too fast-growing “fatty” shoot is also not suitable. It is best to stop on a young branch of the current year, 0.5–0.7 cm thick, even if a bud has appeared at its end.

The cuttings should be up to 15 cm long (experts say from 10 to 30 cm), contain 3-4 buds. The lower cut is made at an angle of forty-five degrees, 5 mm below the bud; some experienced gardeners advise simply tearing off the branch “with the heel”. The upper cut is made horizontal 1 cm above the kidney. It is better to cut off the lower leaves, leaving only the top 2, but they should also be shortened to 2–4 leaves. It would be a good idea to dip the top cut into melted wax or paraffin to protect the site of possible infection and reduce moisture evaporation. Leaves are trimmed for the same purpose.

The prepared cuttings are rooted in soil, water, potatoes or newspaper using the “burrito” method. The soil must be nutritious, it should be calcined or spilled with a hot saturated solution of potassium permanganate. A cutting is planted in a pot, glass, lower part of a plastic bottle or in the garden, watered abundantly, and then covered with a transparent container on top to create a greenhouse effect.

The best temperature will be +23–25 degrees, the lighting should be good, but not direct sunlight. The transparent cover sometimes needs to be removed to check the condition, humidity, or just to ventilate. After 4-6 weeks, new leaves or twigs appear - this means that the plant has taken root.

If rooting occurs in water, then it is better to use boiled water and change it more often. When rooted in a potato, this vegetable will provide the moist, nutrient-rich environment needed for roots to grow. Potatoes with cuttings are usually placed in a small ditch in the sand in a shaded part of the garden, protected from drafts.

The “burrito” method is that the prepared cuttings (they can be 1 cm thick) are wrapped in newspaper, thoroughly moistened, then placed in a plastic bag, checked and moistened if necessary every week. Roots also appear after approximately 4–6 weeks.

Which breeding method to choose?

Walking past a beautifully blooming cascade of fragrant roses, you often wonder how a climbing rose reproduces. There are many methods: cuttings, seeds, layering. Any of these methods must be applied in summer or spring so that by the time of autumn planting the plant has grown a full-fledged root system.

Propagation by seeds is a difficult and painstaking task, only experienced gardeners can do it. This is due to the fact that a rose propagated in this way can be very different from the mother bush, which will greatly disappoint the owner.

The simplest methods of propagating climbing roses are cuttings and layering. By using one of these methods, you can get the plant you like in a short time. Cuttings can be taken from the bush you like without causing harm to it. For layering, only one shoot is used, since with this method of propagation the mother bush is greatly depleted.

Selection of starting material for germination

To avoid disappointment and not waste time on obviously unsuccessful options, you need to make sure in advance that the roses you like are suitable for obtaining high-quality cuttings.

Tips for choosing rose bushes suitable for cuttings:

• Do not cut shoots from too young, flexible or, conversely, very old woody plants.
• Refuse to propagate recently imported species.
• Give preference to domestic varieties or flowers that have undergone long-term acclimatization.
• Select only healthy and strong medium-sized shrubs without external signs of wilting, damage and/or disease (spots, mold, etc.).

Cuttings

Propagating climbing roses by cuttings is the easiest and most effective way. It is better to do this in the summer or spring, when the young shoots have not yet become woody. The best option is young shoots of the current season, 0.7 cm thick.

Important! A woody cutting increases the survival time and reduces the rate of root formation.

Before you start planting, you need to cut the cuttings and prepare the soil for planting. The cuttings are cut 20–35 cm long. Each material should have several full-fledged buds. The lower cut is made below the kidney by 55 mm at an angle of 45 degrees, the upper cut is horizontally above the kidney by a centimeter. To prevent possible infection and reduce moisture evaporation, the upper cut is treated with wax or paraffin. Each cutting is left with two top leaves, cut in half.

Important! For 100% rooting, the cuttings are kept for several minutes in a solution of Kornevin or Epin.

Prepared cuttings are rooted in water or in nutritious, disinfected soil.

Advice from a specialist on the use of root formation stimulants

3. Using a rooting agent, the cuttings take root almost 100%.

Rooting of cuttings will be much better if you use a biological stimulator of root formation. The most popular remedy is Kornevin.

Drugs from different manufacturers are produced under this name. The product is based on an acid, most often heteroauxic acid. It slightly irritates plant tissues, provoking them to actively work. "Kornevin" is used to form collus on cuttings and layering. If the treated edge is placed in the soil, the roots will sprout even on dubious shoots. This happens because the acid not only penetrates inside the plant, but enters the soil and turns into a phytohormone, which promotes the growth of hairy roots.

Do not confuse root stimulants with fertilizers. Rooters are not food for plants; they perform an auxiliary function, mobilizing internal capabilities at the cellular level.

Yushchenko Elena Ivanovna, leading specialist of the Central Plant Protection Station.

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How to propagate a climbing rose by layering

Good results can be achieved by propagating bushes by layering. With this method, seedling rooting and survival rate are 100%.

When is the best time to plant cuttings?

How to root a rose from a bouquet at home

The work is carried out in the spring, when the soil is sufficiently warmed up, but the plant has not yet begun to grow. The bush must be pruned and treated against pests and diseases. Shoots are chosen that are strong and at least one year old.

You can also achieve good results by burying the shoot in late autumn. Already in July it will be possible to observe the development of the young bush.

How to do it right

The entire process of propagating a climbing rose by layering looks like this:

It is necessary to dig a furrow 40 cm deep

In a separate container, mix compost, humus and garden soil taken in equal parts. Fill the hole with the mixture to a depth of 20-25 cm. Take the lash horizontally into the furrow and press it firmly to the ground with pegs. Cover the shoot with prepared fertile soil and water well. The tip of the shoot should be secured with a garden clamp so that it does not rise up. It is very important to ensure that the soil does not dry out, watering once every two days. Every day in summer.

With regular watering and fertilizing, by the fall you will be able to see the germination of young plants, which indicates the formation of a powerful root system.

The plant is separated from the mother bush in late autumn, but it is better to do this in the spring. This way you can minimize the risk of freezing of a young, immature layer.

When propagating by layering, the lash must be cleared of foliage, leaving 5-7 leaves at the top of the shoot

Seedlings grown in this way will be able to bloom the next year. But experienced gardeners advise pruning, focusing on growing a powerful bush that can then rapidly develop and curl. The current year's buds are removed, resulting in abundant and long-lasting flowering of a stronger rose bush in the next season.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

How to trim a climbing rose for shaping

Cuttings are considered the most used method of propagating climbing roses. It can be used both in spring and autumn. Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings in the summer does not always work; the shoots become stiff, semi-lignified, and germination takes longer. And the summer heat promotes rapid evaporation of moisture, so cuttings planted in open ground often dry out.

Preparing the cuttings

Half the success is properly prepared planting material. The most promising are cuttings taken in the spring before the plant blooms. The optimal thickness of a shoot that can be cut should be at least 5 mm. The material is prepared in this order:

1. A fragment with three living buds is cut out from the middle part of the young shoot.
2. The lower part is shortened with garden pruning shears at an angle of 45 degrees.
3. The top of the cutting is carefully cut two centimeters above the leaf at an angle of 90 degrees.
4. On the top two petioles, cut off the top fifth leaf.
5. All leaves on the lower petiole are removed and shortened to 2 cm.

For cuttings, use the middle part of healthy shoots without visible signs of disease or pest damage.

Rooting in water

It is considered the easiest way. The cuttings are placed in a vessel with water filled to 1/3 of the height of the seedling. The jar or glass is completely covered with a bag, creating a greenhouse effect. The first white roots can be seen after 15-20 days.

The main problem that gardeners face when germinating roses in water is rotting of the cuttings. To avoid this, crushed activated carbon is added to the water. Also, do not allow water to stagnate. Once every three to four days the water should be changed and the cutting itself should be washed.

Note! If you add rooting agent Kornevin or Epin to the water for germination, the time for roots to appear will be reduced to 10-12 days

Rooting a seedling in the ground

Rotting of planting material can be avoided by rooting the rose directly in the soil. To do this, take a light soil based on turf soil, peat and sand. Of the purchased mixtures, any universal composition will do. The cuttings are planted in small pots, watered abundantly and covered with a jar or bag, creating the effect of a greenhouse.

The containers are transferred to a bright place, protected from direct sunlight, and kept at a temperature not lower than +23 degrees. The greenhouse can be removed as soon as the first young leaves appear. It takes 14 to 20 days for the seedling to root in the substrate.

Many gardeners practice spring rooting of cuttings directly in the garden bed. Prepared fragments of shoots are planted to a depth of 2 cm at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other. After planting, they must be covered with jars or a low film tunnel is made using arcs.

On a note! Roses are transplanted to a permanent location next spring.

Germinating roses in potatoes

Quite a popular method of propagation among experienced gardeners. This method successfully cuts not only roses, but also other types of decorative deciduous, flowering and even coniferous plants.

Using potatoes helps maintain a consistently moist environment that encourages root growth. In addition, starch and carbohydrates, which the tuber is rich in, are sources of nutrition for the young seedling.

The method consists of several main steps:

1. Before planting, dig a narrow trench 15-20 cm deep.
2. A layer of sand about 5 cm is poured onto the bottom.
3. Take medium-sized potatoes. All eyes must be cleaned and removed.
4. Cuttings are inserted into potatoes with a sharp cut inward.
5. The prepared material is laid out in a row at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.
6. Cover the cuttings with soil, compact them and water them abundantly.
7. The resulting row is covered with film.

After 10-14 days, the roses are opened for ventilation for 20-30 minutes daily, after another week the film is completely removed.

Obtaining high-quality planting material using potato tubers is one of the most effective and simplest ways for those who still do not know how to propagate climbing roses by cuttings in the summer.

The lower edge of the cutting should be buried in the tuber to the height of the lower leaf petiole

Advice from experienced gardeners

How to propagate a rose in a greenhouse

Arrange it in light shade or in an open area. Allowable passage of groundwater (1.5-2 m).

Dig a pit (1-1.5 X 1-1.5 m). Place slurry (2/3). Cover with polyethylene. Leave for 2 weeks. Then the film is removed. Sprinkle the following mixture on top of the manure:

• turf land (2 parts);
• leaf soil (1 part);
• sand (1 part).

Or another composition: fertile soil, peat (1:1). Pour a layer of sand (3-5 cm) on top. Before cuttings, water the soil generously.

How to propagate a rose in a greenhouse

The cuttings are buried (1.5-2 cm). They are seated at a distance from each other (5 cm). It is false to be between the rows (8-10 cm).

The first 14 days are sprayed every day (5-7 times). After 2-3 weeks, reduce to 3 times. Ventilate in hot weather. They take root after 14-21 days. As soon as buds begin to form, remove the film. They are planted next spring.

How to propagate roses using cuttings under jars

Prepare the petioles in the usual way. Select a slightly shaded area. Cuttings are planted in the fall (1-1.5 months before preparations for winter begin).

Install the shoots, slightly tilting them. One container should fit 2-3 copies. Water the plantings abundantly. Cover with jars (three-liter).

If there is no rain, periodically moisten the soil. After 30 days, sprouts should appear. For the winter, cover the jars with fallen leaves. In spring (end of May) glass vessels are removed completely.

How to propagate roses using cuttings under jars

How to grow a rose in ordinary potatoes

It is necessary to prepare cuttings (their length is 15-20 cm) and tubers. It's better to take young potatoes. Immerse the ends of the cuttings in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (for 12 hours).

Then leave in the stimulating mixture (for a day). They use Kornevin, Heteroauskin. Make a hole in the potato with a sharp object. The petiole is inserted. You can plant such a preparation in a flowerbed or in a home pot. Grow like all rose seedlings.

These flowers can be propagated in various ways, the main thing is to carefully prepare all the necessary preparations and tools.

Taking cuttings: when and how to cut shoots correctly

If you wish, you can try to grow a rose from a cutting, even from unpresentable branches. For example, those that broke off under the weight of snow or remained after trimming a bush. However, to obtain the most favorable results, it is recommended to adhere to certain rules:

• Season. Experienced flower growers advise cutting shoots during the period from the formation of buds to the end of flowering, i.e. from early summer to mid-autumn. By this time, the wood will have accumulated enough nutrients, but in general, you can start rooting in early spring.
• Maturity stage. A suitable cutting is considered to be a small straight section of an adult semi-lignified (this year) green stem with 2–5 fully formed axillary buds.
• Escape size. The length should be from 15 to 30 cm, thickness - from 5 to 10 mm.
• Work tool. A special garden pruner or a household knife with a very sharp blade will do (the main thing is to make sure that it accurately separates the trunk and does not flatten or “shag” it). It is advisable to disinfect the instrument with alcohol or boiling water.
• Place of cut. For cuttings, the middle or lower part of the stem is used (the top takes root very poorly). The upper cut is made in a straight line between the buds 2–6 mm above one of them, and the lower cut is made obliquely, at an angle of 45° directly below the outermost bud.
• Material processing. At the base of the finished cuttings, you need to completely remove the thorns and leaves, and reduce their number by half on top.

You can complete the preparation of the stem by dipping the cut areas in a weak (light pink) solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. To minimize moisture loss, seal the upper end with wax or paraffin, and place the lower end in a stimulating solution.

How to do it?

It is very difficult to root cuttings of roses from a bouquet. There is no 100% guarantee that the process will be successful. Only one out of ten cuttings produces roots. And this is not so much. Therefore, to achieve greater effect, take several cuttings at once, then the likelihood of success of the undertaking will increase significantly.

Let's move on to methods of rooting cuttings. There are several of them. The first method, which we will highlight in our article, is to select a cutting with young vegetation from a bouquet, which must be lowered into water. Then it must be put into any growth stimulator. Next, you need to root the cuttings of roses from the bouquet in a pot of soil, into which the stem is immersed until the young shoots - they remain above it. Then the seedling is covered with a plastic bottle. Or, two sticks are placed on the sides of the pot, over which plastic film is stretched. After this procedure, we leave the plant alone, but do not forget to water it and let it breathe. Wait four weeks for the seedling to take root.

The second way to root a rose cutting is to divide the stems of the plant into 25-centimeter sections. This is best done with pruning shears or a blade. Do this to avoid damaging the stem. There is no need to take the tops - they are too thin. We place the cuttings in the ground, then cut off the bottom of plastic bottles and cover our seedlings with them. Periodically, the structure needs to be removed so that our future roses can breathe. In this method, cuttings are planted in the fall.

Classic way: step-by-step process

For both beginners and experienced gardeners, this method allows you to cut roses without any frills, simply and clearly.

Blank

The first thing you need is the cuttings themselves. They are created in autumn or summer. Autumn cuttings, lignified, are prepared after the flowers have fully ripened. Choose smooth, strong stems with a diameter of 4-5 mm. Green or summer cuttings are prepared until the bush is completely lignified. This happens around the time of the first flowering. For propagation, choose even flowering shoots. We need the middle part of such an escape. Such shoots take root best.

The procurement process is the same for all options:

• the lower cut is made directly under the bud, at an angle of 45 degrees;
• make the top cut at a distance of 13-15 cm. It should be made 1 cm above the bud at a right angle to the trunk;
• the thorns are removed, the leaves below are removed, and the top ones are cut off by one third. Treat the upper cut with a solution of potassium permanganate or brilliant green;
• place the cuttings in water or a solution of potassium humate;
• Now the cuttings are ready for rooting.

Rooting

So, our cuttings are ready, kept in solution and can be rooted.

There are several ways to root the resulting seedlings.

• In water. The simplest and easiest way, it is with its help that beginners will learn how to root a rose from a bouquet. Pour cold boiled water into a clean container. Approximately 2.5-4 cm. Place roses there. Periodically add fresh, settled water there. You can add a root growth stimulator to the water. Place the container in a bright place, but so that the sun does not fall into it. In about three to four weeks, callus and new shoots will appear and now everything is ready for planting in a pot or open ground. When planting in the ground, germinated plants should be covered with a jar or plastic bottle. With this method, there is a risk of seedling death due to lack of oxygen. Yes, and it is suitable mainly for miniature roses.

Rooting into the soil. In this case, freshly cut cuttings are planted immediately in pots with soil. The cuttings are left in a solution of humate or rooting agent for a day. During this time, pots are prepared for planting. Their walls are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, and drainage (stones, pebbles) is poured onto the bottom. Next, pour soil (you can take regular garden soil, or special soil for roses), approximately two-thirds of the volume of the pot. The remaining volume is filled with washed sand. The cuttings are inserted only into the sand at an angle, never touching the ground - otherwise the seedling will rot due to lack of oxygen. Now the pot is covered with a jar or plastic bottle and put in a dark place. When planting in a greenhouse or boxes, the procedure is exactly the same, only you should maintain a distance of 10 cm between the seedlings. And cover them with an opaque film or non-woven material. After a month, the cuttings will have taken root and can be planted in open ground. Shortly before this, the plants begin to get accustomed to fresh air, removing the shelter for a while. Always remember to water the soil and don’t let it dry out.

Landing

So, we have a young shoot, and our cuttings have become full-fledged seedlings. Now they are ready for planting in their permanent place of growth.

Roses are grown from cuttings in autumn or spring. When planting in spring, the soil temperature should be above +10...+13 °C. And in the fall, everything must be completed before mid-October (but not earlier than mid-September), so that the seedlings can take root and prepare for frost before winter. If you plant them too early, while it is warm, the plant will send out shoots that will freeze and destroy the plant during frosts. A hole is dug somewhat larger than the pot in which the seedling grew, so that the plant can have some space. Humus or compost is poured down and covered with earth - the roots of the seedlings should not touch the fertilizer. Cuttings from pots are planted together with a lump of earth. If the roots are without soil, then they should be soaked in a rooting agent.

The seedling is placed vertically in the hole, sprinkled with earth and compacted tightly. Then they water it. If you plan to propagate roses using cuttings, cover them with jars, cut plastic bottles or special material; an additional advantage would be to cover it all with grass or pine needles in order to insulate the soil in the fall and calmly enter winter. Spring seedlings are also covered, watering is carried out around the shelter. After the leaves appear, the seedling begins to be accustomed to the open air - the shelter is first removed for half an hour, gradually increasing the time.

Seedlings should be insulated for two winters after planting. And only then are they able to winter on their own.

Growing rose cuttings in potatoes

This method of propagating a plant is one of the most unusual and interesting methods of planting this flower. To do this, we need young shoots of roses, which can be obtained during the flowering period, namely in the summer. The stems should not exceed the thickness of a pencil, as they multiply most quickly during the process. Then, using pruning shears, we cut the young plants into cuttings. It is advisable to do this slightly at an angle. Do not forget that cuttings should not exceed 25 centimeters in length. We carefully remove all the thorns and leaves from their lower part, and then immerse the stem in the potatoes. Next we need to choose a location for the trench and dig it. It should be open and sunny, but protected from the wind. The trench should be about fifteen centimeters deep.

The bottom is completely covered with sand so that there are no gaps. We immerse the cuttings in the ground at a distance of twenty-five centimeters from each other, and then cover them with earth. After which, do not forget to water thoroughly. “Why immerse cuttings in potatoes?” - you ask? Rose seedlings placed in potatoes will not need moisture. They will be completely provided by tubers. Also, it is they who will feed them with already synthesized beneficial substances.

Secrets of proper planting and care of scrub roses

How to plant rose bushes correctly

Planting should begin with the correct selection of plant seedlings. Young annual roots take root best in a new place, even if at first glance they seem small. The main thing in this is their proper digging and storage. The bark of the seedling should be formed and woody, not wrinkled or dry. If you get a plant with dried roots, place the flower in cool water for one day before planting.

It is best to choose a planting location based on the type of plant you have chosen. If you have a medium-sized variety with strong stems and leaves and flowers that do not fade in the sun, then the best place for them will be a clearing open to the sun's rays. For tall or semi-climbing options, you need to take care of the support or the possibility of installing it over time.

To understand at what distance from each other to plant bushes, you need to determine how far and how quickly the stem of the bush can grow.

1. Shrub roses grow in small bushes, so it is enough to plant them half a meter from each other.
2. if their growth exceeds the distance of one meter and the stems are characterized by spreading and rapid growth, it would be useful to leave two meters of distance between the bushes.

What is the best way to water scrubs?

Any flowers, and especially scrub roses, love a sufficient amount of moisture and fertilizer, especially in hot and dry climates. In such conditions, plants must be watered abundantly at least once every seven days.

But please note that frequent watering with a small amount of water can harm the plant.

Is it necessary to cover shrubs for the winter?

Despite the fact that scrub roses are mostly known for their frost resistance, it is better to prepare them for the winter season. In the southern regions, to do this, it is enough to cover the root areas with soil, and closer to winter, cover them with sawdust. In colder places, in addition to such measures, it is better to play it safe by covering the bushes with dry leaves or spruce branches.

What's the best way to prune rose bushes?

The group of scrub roses includes a wide variety of types of flowers, in shape, height and spread of stems, so the issue of proper pruning is best considered based on the type of plant. But there is still one common point here - it is necessary to trim moderately.

Also, in places where the bush will be under cover, it is necessary to remove weak and unhealthy stems, all flowers, buds and leaves so that during wintering they do not succumb to fungal diseases and infect the entire plant. Unlike other climbing and bushy plants, the stems of which are cut back to the level of the cover, the long stems of scrubs must be left. By cutting them off completely, you risk weakening the flower and also harming the harmonious shape of the bush. To protect against frost, long stems are bent to the ground, folded into a pile, and then sheltered from the cold.

In the spring, weak, frozen and unhealthy shoots are pruned, as well as those that grow inside the bush. It is recommended to leave from 3 to 5 of the strongest shoots on the stems, and on each of them no more than 8 buds. The goal of spring pruning is to shorten the central stems by a quarter and the side stems by two thirds. Thus, the gardener gives the strongest shoots the opportunity to grow and develop faster. You shouldn’t get too carried away with pruning, since scrub roses can be weakened if you remove a lot of wood from the bush.

When pruning bushes with long shoots, try not to disturb its shape, while removing a third of the length of each stem. It is better not to trim arched bushes too much (from a fifth to a quarter of the length of the shoot). Straight, low-growing bushes can be pruned more severely, cutting off half the stem so that active growth does not expose the stems at the bottom of the plant. When the flower reaches its third year, the oldest stems can be cut off at the base, thus rejuvenating the plant.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=S6o7aL8kaGg

A few words about climbing roses

Kinds

Among the large number of varietal diversity of rose climbing bushes, two types are distinguished:

• Multi-flowered roses stand out by blooming up to 20 buds at a time. They are small in size, approximately 2.5 cm, and there is practically no smell.
• Large-flowered roses are similar to hybrid tea varieties. They bloom for a long time, opening new buds one after another. Inflorescence with ten buds. These flowers have an intoxicatingly fragrant aroma.

The most popular varieties

• The climbing variety "Dortmund" can be planted everywhere. Flowering throughout the warm season;
• “Climber” attracts with its high resistance to disease and its vitality. The shoots can reach four meters, which is convenient for creating any flower arrangement.
• "Rambler" has a long flowering period and has large double flowers. The shoots are tall and powerful. This climbing variety is suitable for creating bright hedges.
• The height of “New Down” is up to two meters. The shoots are slightly curved, so it is convenient to hang them on supports. Flowering is abundant.
• The “Kordessa” variety is a newcomer among its climbing relatives. Flowering is vigorous and long lasting.

Reproduction methods

Many novice gardeners are interested in propagating climbing roses with their own hands. Professionals know how to propagate rose bushes, which include climbing varieties, in different ways:

• cuttings;
• layering;
• budding;
• seeds.

Each method of propagation has its own characteristics and difficulties, which are not always amenable to those who are just starting to breed these amazing plants. The simplest, giving a higher percentage of survival, is the propagation of climbing roses by cuttings, root suckers and layering.

Exchange of experiences of gardeners who successfully propagate climbing roses by layering

1. Marina Kirillovna (Zagorsk, zone 4).

1. Larisa Maksimovna, (Grodno, zone 5).

I love experimenting with plant propagation. Cuttings from all the roses that are in my garden, including hybrid tea, floribunda, and climbing “Laguna.” Perhaps this particular variety took root better than others.

When the branches of this rose grew, about two meters, it became difficult to manage them. Therefore, instead of pruning, I began to dig in the longest shoots. Almost all of them grew (unlucky were only those that the dog got to). From which I concluded that of all the roses, “Laguna” reproduces best by layering.

1. Ekaterina Maksimovna, (Kuban, zone 6).

My rose "Bobby James" has grown so large that there is not enough space for it along the fence inside the garden. It spread to the street and there it grew to the ground on its own. No one dug it in, watered it, or fertilized it. I've been working with roses for a long time, but this is the first time I've seen this.

Methods for propagating climbing roses

Climbing roses, like many other crops, can be propagated by seeds.
However, gardeners who keep these beautiful flowers most often choose vegetative propagation. This is the most effective and efficient way to increase the number of roses on your site. The basis of this method is the ability of climbing beauties to regenerate their body from one part of themselves - a leaf, stem, root. By the way!

All cultivated roses are propagated vegetatively.

Plants obtained by vegetative propagation are called self-rooted, since, once a leaf or shoot is planted, these parts become overgrown with their own roots, from which a new plant can be grown that has the same genes as the mother one.

Roses can be propagated vegetatively in several ways:

• layering;
• root suckers;
• cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

In addition, a new rose bush can be obtained by grafting (grafting) an eye (bud) of a varietal rose onto a healthy wild rose bush. This method is called “budding”. Grafted roses grow faster than self-rooted ones, but caring for them is more labor-intensive. Roses grown on “their own” roots have high vitality - they are more hardy and winter-hardy.

The easiest way for an ordinary gardener to propagate roses is by suckers, layering or cuttings. These are the least labor-intensive and more effective methods. However, it is worth considering that not all varieties of this flower can be propagated by cuttings. But flowering from new plants can be achieved only after a couple of years. Budding technique is a little more complicated than previous propagation methods and requires additional skills from the gardener. In addition, there is a need to obtain healthy, well-developed rootstocks.

Each method has its pros and cons. An analysis of each method in more detail will help you decide which one to use.

This is interesting: Rose Lady of Shalott: explained in detail

Budding

Grafting is an effective way to propagate a fastidious varietal plant with the help of a more hardy, winter-hardy relative - the common rose hip. It is on it that the eyes of those varietal roses that for some reason grow poorly or bloom little are grafted onto it. Thus, you can get a unique variety that will bloom magnificently even in unusual conditions.

At first it seems that budding, that is, planting part of one plant on another, can only be done by experienced gardeners. In fact, this method of propagation is quite simple to implement, and even a novice rose grower can master it. The essence of grafting is that the apical part of one plant (scion) is planted to the root system of another (stock). First you need to prepare the scion and rootstock.

Preparation of the rootstock:

• For grafting, select a rootstock that is at least three years old;
• 12-14 days before the procedure, the main bush is hilled to a height of 20-25 centimeters with damp soil. This is necessary for a stronger root system to form;
• on the eve of grafting, the bush is generously watered with warm water;
• Before the procedure, the plant is unplanted until the root collar is exposed. The base is washed and dried. This is where the vaccination will take place.

Scion preparation:

• the bush from which the rootstock is taken is well watered the day before cutting the cutting;
• on the day of budding, cut a cutting 10 centimeters long and at least 5 millimeters thick;
• Select the largest eye from the cut shoot and remove it along with part of the wood using a knife.

Budding technique: a T-shaped cut is made at the base of the rootstock. A sleeping eye (scutellum), previously cut out from a prepared cutting, is inserted into it. The edges of the cut are pressed tightly and wrapped with electrical tape, leaving the peephole outside. The scion will grow by feeding on the roots of the rootstock. The very next year a strong, healthy shoot will grow from the peephole.

Note!

Plant roses in cloudy, cool weather. The rootstock must be dry during budding, otherwise the cut site will quickly become affected by the disease.

In early spring, the bandage is removed. All wild growth is cut out from the rootstock and sanitary pruning is carried out. As soon as the grafted shoot has 4-5 leaves, it is pinched (just like all other shoots), stimulating the awakening of the buds and the growth of the plant.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=bb-2Z1_cwM4

Let's sum it up

Growing rose bushes in different ways is a fun activity. Having received a new plant with their own hands once, flower growers can no longer stop. Thanks to this world, new varieties of amazing roses with different colors and unique aroma appear.

Spring and summer are the best time to propagate climbing roses. Climbing roses are not propagated by seeds, because the grown plant will no longer repeat the parental characteristics. Both the coloring and all the advantages of your favorite variety may be lost when propagated by seeds. Therefore, in order to be guaranteed to obtain a sample that exactly replicates the bush you like, climbing roses are propagated vegetatively - by layering, cuttings and grafting.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

Climbing roses are easy to propagate by layering. However, this method will not produce a large number of seedlings. Climbing roses are propagated by layering in the spring.

To propagate a climbing rose by layering, you need to mark one or more shoots on your rose. Depending on how much free space there is around the rose, select a shoot of the appropriate length - 1 m will be enough, but more is possible. I advise you to start by taking a shoot 1-1.5 m long.

On the selected shoot, it is necessary to make shallow, barely noticeable cuts above the buds, and place these shoots in grooves of the same length as the shoot and a depth of 7-10 cm. It is advisable to first shed the bottom of the groove and lay humus for nutrition. Next, we simply pin the shoot at any corners and sprinkle the groove with soil, leaving only the top of the shoot on the surface.

Try to keep the soil in this area moist throughout the summer. The next season, simply cut off the shoot and divide it into parts with roots - there you have individual seedlings.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

It is more difficult to propagate climbing roses from cuttings, but you can get more seedlings. It is better to do this in the summer, in mid-June, when the cuttings are quite soft. The amount of work and costs will depend on how many seedlings are needed. For example, to get 10 climbing rose seedlings, you will need: – 10 plastic cups of 0.5 l each; – 10 plastic containers with a volume of 1 l; - OK. 5 kg of soil and river sand. The cups are filled with a mixture of sand and soil, and covered on top with liter containers turned upside down to create a “greenhouse” effect.

To grow seedlings for sale, when you need to get hundreds of new young plants, you will need a separate greenhouse. On average per 1 sq. m decreases to approx. 100 cuttings. The soil in the greenhouse for growing cuttings is prepared as follows: the surface is covered with soil, a 2 cm layer of expanded clay is placed at the base, then a 6 cm nutrient layer of equal parts of peat, sand and humus and on top a layer of sand 3 cm thick. When growing, the cuttings are covered with film .

The cuttings do not need to be cut large; two internodes are enough. Next, the cuttings should be deprived of leaves, leaving only a couple at the top and placed in nutritious soil (in a glass or in a greenhouse) and watered

When propagating climbing roses by cuttings, it is important to remember that the soil (whether in a greenhouse or in cups) should always be slightly moist.

Usually in mid-September the cuttings form good roots and can be planted either in a permanent place or in a bed with loose and nutritious soil to grow for another season and then replanted.

Propagation of climbing roses by grafting

This is one of the most complex and labor-intensive methods of propagation, which allows you to obtain a large number of seedlings. The grafting is carried out with a bud, which is cut from a cultivated rose and grafted onto the rootstock (rosehip seedling), retreating 5-6 centimeters from the base. I advise you to propagate roses using the method of summer grafting - budding.

The easiest way to graft is through a T-shaped incision. Using a sharp knife, make a cut in the shape of the letter T on a rosehip seedling, cut a bud from the rose and insert it into the cut, after which we insulate it with budding film (it is commercially available).

When caring for a grafted cutting, some advise hilling the rose hips above the grafting site, but I never do this and I don’t understand why this is necessary. I'm just watching how the kidney develops. A month after grafting, I loosen the film by cutting off the knot, and in the spring I remove it completely. Then I wait another week and cut off the rosehip shoot above the growth from the bud.