Orchid dendrorium phalaenopsis - specific nuances

Dendrobium phalaenopis is extremely popular among orchid lovers , second only to various varieties and hybrids of phalaenopsis.

Varieties and hybrids of dendrobium can often be found on store shelves; it is actively used to obtain plants with new color options. The real species Dendrobium phalaenopsis can be found infrequently, however, it is necessary to know its characteristics in order to successfully grow hybrids obtained with its participation.

Description

Dendrobium phalaenopsis forms long spindle-shaped pseudobulbs, at the top of which a peduncle is formed.

The lifespan of a pseudobulb is several years, but after the formation of a peduncle, its growth stops, and a new growth point appears at its base. This type of growth is called sympodial.

The pseudobulb bears leathery leaves , which can persist for several years, especially in the upper part, or fall off after flowering.

The arrows in the photo show the pseudobulbs of Dendrobium lindleyi.

The peduncle grows from the top of the pseudobulb and bears up to 40 flowers with a diameter of 3-5 cm , violet, lilac, white, pink or purple. In shape they resemble phalaenopsis flowers. A few paragraphs later in the article you will find a photo of the peduncle and its care.

Biological description

It grows in the northern regions of Australia and Papua New Guinea. Dendrobium phalaenopsis can grow epiphytically (on trees) or lithophytically (on rocks), rising to a height of 400 m above sea level.

The habitats maintain relatively high temperatures and air humidity throughout the year.

Dendrobium phalaenopis is a sympodial orchid, consisting of pseudobulbs growing quite closely to each other.

Pseudobulbs can be thin, thick, spindle-shaped, pear-shaped, short, long (up to 60 cm).

Each individual variety is individual in its own way. The leaves are concentrated in the upper half of the pseudobulb and are very diverse in shape and structure - lanceolate, hard, rounded, soft, etc.

The leaves last for 2-3 years. They often turn yellow and fall off just before flowering.

The only thing that unites all this diversity into one group is the way the flower stalks appear.

Peduncles grow from the very top if the hybrid is dominated by Dendrobium bigibbum itself, and in the upper third if some other natural species dominates.

The peduncle is in the form of a cluster, carrying from 5 to 40 flowers of various colors from pure white to dark red, almost black, most often variegated.

The size of the flowers is also varied, most often 3-8 cm in diameter, they are fragrant and odorless.

The life cycle of each individual pseudobulb can be described as follows:

• Kidney swelling;
• Development of a new shoot;
• Formation of a new pseudobulb (transformation of growth into a pseudobulb);
• Pseudobulb flowering.

Important! When purchasing dendrobium, pay attention to the number of pseudobulbs, there should be at least three. If less, the plant is considered weak and may not survive.

Distinctive features

It is difficult to identify distinctive features, because... The height of plants, the number of leaves on pseudobulbs, their life expectancy and the color of flowers can vary greatly. All plants are characterized by leathery dark green leaves, located mainly in the upper part of the pseudobulb.

The number of leaves varies from 3 to 15, depending on the size of the pseudobulbs. At the same time, they grow on the entire stem, which is why Dendrobium phalaenopsis is often called “tree orchids” (you can see the photo below).

Dendrobium phalaenopsis.

Dendrobium orchid diseases

Fungal and bacterial infections . They are primarily susceptible to plants that are kept in unsuitable conditions: lack of lighting, too low humidity or irregular watering.

The first sign of these dendrobium orchid diseases is black or brown spots on the leaves, sometimes with a light rim. A single spot may be the result of an accidental injury or sunburn, but if the spots increase in size or number, it is most likely due to infection.

To save the dendrobium orchid from diseases caused by fungi and bacteria, its conditions are improved, the affected parts are removed, the sections are sprinkled with activated carbon or cauterized with iodine. Then the plant is treated with any fungicidal preparation suitable for home use.

Rot of the roots and bases of pseudobulbs . Most often, this disease of dendrobium is the result of too much watering with stagnation of moisture and flooding of the bases of the pseudobulbs.

When root rot appears, the plant must be immediately transplanted into a new substrate. Before this, the rotten sections of the roots are removed, and the sections are sprinkled with activated carbon. If the bases of the stems rot, remove the rotten areas (in case of severe damage, the entire stems), the sections are disinfected, and the plant is treated with a fungicidal preparation.

Subtleties of classification

An interesting fact is that this species has become widely known under a name that is actually synonymous with its real name. This type of orchid was first discovered in 1852 and was named Dendrobium bigibbum, but thirty years later (in 1880) another researcher also discovered a plant of this species in another region and, not knowing about the previous discovery, named it Dendrobium phalaenopsis (Dendrobium phalaenopsis).

On a note! The term Dendrobium phalaenopsis has now become an impersonal name for a huge group of hybrids, similar in external structure, type of growth and originating from D. bigibbum. The real species name is known mainly to collectors.

Pests and diseases

It is necessary to care for the orchid especially carefully. Competent and proper care helps the owner of the flower to make the life of the orchid prosperous and blooming in the literal sense of the word. If maintenance rules are violated, the appearance of diseases and pests is inevitable.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis, unlike other types of orchids, is a very unpretentious plant with a strong, hardened character. The lack of flowering, as well as problems with roots, are primarily due to improperly organized care. The reason for the falling of buds can be drafts, as well as an ill-selected substrate.

The most common problem for this species is root rot, which is primarily due to excessive watering, stagnation of water in the pot and lack of air circulation in the roots. Overmoistening causes not only rotting of the roots, but also wateriness of the pseudobulbs, which cannot produce flowers. Such an orchid will multiply foliage without creating new flower stalks.

Very rarely, dendrobium is affected by spider mites, aphids or thrips. It is necessary to increase the humidity around the plant, wash it once every two weeks with soapy water. Remove parasites; in case of severe damage, treat the leaves with an insecticide. In the case of fungal disease, the problem most often lies in excessive watering. The flower is saved by transplanting into fresh soil. The roots are carefully inspected before planting in a new soil mixture. Remove rotten parts affected by fungus. Healthy roots are treated with charcoal and dried. Water the orchid 10 days after transplantation.

Favorable growth and flowering depends on the care of phalaenopsis dendrobium. It should be as close as possible to the natural habitat. Proper maintenance will provide the plant with buds within a few months, which will delight its owner with beautiful and fragrant flowers. If you follow certain rules and recommendations, your efforts will not be in vain. the plant will definitely thank you with the exquisite beauty of its flowers.

Is there a difference between Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium?

The specific species name often discourages flower growers who are not familiar with the intricacies of the classification of orchids. Dendrobium and Phalaenopsis are actually 2 different genera of orchids , each with a huge number of species.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis is a member of the genus Dendrobium, and it received its specific name not because of its relationship with phalaenopsis, but because of the similar appearance of the flowers.

In addition, due to the similarity in pronunciation, dendrobium is sometimes mistakenly called “arboretum”. To avoid confusion, let's say that an arboretum is an area allocated for the cultivation in open ground of woody plants (trees, shrubs, vines), located according to systematic, geographical, ecological, decorative and other characteristics (definition from Wikipedia). That's why you will never see orchids in the arboretum, even in photos.

Dendrobium orchid species

In nature, according to various sources, there are 1000–1200 species of dendrobium (1). In indoor culture, of course, much fewer species are grown, but they are also numerous, plus varieties, it is unlikely that it will be possible to list them all, so it makes sense to talk about the most common and interesting ones.

Dendrobium nobile. The most spectacular type of orchid is the dendrobium, which fully justifies its name - “noble”. Most often these are hybrids that differ in the size and color of the flowers, which can be white, pink, lilac, yellow and even tricolor. The flowers form in the axils of the leaves and tightly mount strong vertical stems, giving the plant a “bouquet” appearance. Flowering is long, from mid-winter to early summer.

Dendrobium moniliforme. Very miniature, about 15 cm high, similar to a reduced Dendrobium nobile. The flowers are white, yellow, red or pink, in inflorescences of 2–3 pieces. There are many varieties and hybrids. Flowering is long and begins at the end of winter.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis. Despite the similarity of names, this is not a hybrid with Phalaenopsis, but a separate species of Dendrobium, externally similar to Phalaenopsis. Its flowers are large, on a long peduncle; it usually blooms in winter, in November-December. It is considered one of the easiest to grow.

Dendrobium nobile. Photo: wikipedia.org

Dendrobium moniliforme. Photo: pixabay.com

Dendrobium phalaenopsis. Photo: wikipedia.org

Dendrobium parishii . It is distinguished by long creeping or hanging shoots and large leaves. Flowers on short peduncles, single or several, with a “fluffy” lip. Blooms in early summer.

Dendrobium primulinum . It also has long drooping shoots with abundant foliage. Flowers appear 1–2 at internodes; they are large, with a light striped or speckled lip. Flowering in late winter - early spring, may be longer.

Dendrobium Parisha. Photo: pixabay.com

Dendrobium primrose. Photo: wikipedia.org

Dendrobium densiflorum. The name of this type of dendrobium fully corresponds to the appearance of the plant: one inflorescence can contain several dozen small flowers, most often yellow-orange, with a strong pleasant aroma. Flowering is long and begins in winter.

Dendrobium Lindley. Photo: pixabay.com

Dendrobium densely flowered. Photo: pixabay.com

Dendrobium lindleyi . A compact type of dendrobium orchid, usually reaching no more than 20 cm in height. Each inflorescence can contain 10 or more flowers up to 5 cm in size, yellow or orange in color with a darker lip. The flowers have a pleasant honey aroma. Flowering begins in mid-winter and can last up to six months, it is especially abundant in spring.

External characteristics

The height of an adult plant can vary depending on the size of the pseudobulbs . In some specimens, the height of the pseudobulb does not exceed 10 cm, while in others it can reach 120 cm. If we add to this height the height of the peduncle, which can reach a length of 40 cm, it turns out that some specimens in a flowering state can be more than 1.5 m in height.

Most often you can find intermediate options. As the plant ages, the height of the pseudobulbs increases, as well as the length of the peduncle and the number of flowers on it.

The leaves are leathery, 7-15 cm long. In the lower part of the pseudoulba, the leaves are smaller and fall off quickly, and in the upper part they can persist for 2-3 years. Depending on the size, each pseudobulb can have from 3 to 15 leaves.

The peduncle can be either erect or drooping. Up to 20 flowers can form on it At the same time, in some plants several peduncles can form from the top at once.

The diameter of the flowers of the species dendrobum phalaenopsis is 3-5 cm . In the structure of the flower, the shape of the sepals, petals and lips, the dendrobium is very similar to phalaenopsis.

Dendrobium resembles phalaenopsis in flower structure.

Dendrobium orchid pests

Dendrobium is vulnerable to common houseplant pests: spider mites, scale insects, aphids, mealybugs, thrips and whiteflies.

Pest control measures for dendrobium are the same as for other indoor plants. From mealybugs, spider mites and whiteflies, if there are few of them, thoroughly washing the plant with laundry or special green soap helps; it is better to do this 2-3 times at intervals of several days.

In case of severe damage by these pests, as well as when scale insects or thrips are detected, only treatment with special agrochemical preparations helps: Actellik, Fitoverm (3) or others with a similar effect.

Main features of flowering

Under optimal conditions and moderate temperatures, flowering of a species plant can last from 1 to 3 months . When it comes to hybrids, flowers on some hybrid plants can stay in bloom 2 times longer.

In apartment conditions, flowering usually occurs at the beginning of spring , after a relatively dry and cool dormant period. However, hybrid plants can bloom at any time of the year.

Theoretically, each pseudobulb can bloom several times, even after it completely loses its leaves, but in species plants the peduncle is formed only from the tip of the pseudobulb, even with repeated flowering.

Interesting! In hybrid plants, in the creation of which not only D. bigibbum took part, peduncles can also form from the leaf axils in the upper part of the pseudobulb.

Stimulation

Hybrid plants, as a rule, do not have problems with flowering, but species specimens need a short period of rest , as in natural conditions.

During the dormant period, plant growth stops and new growths and roots do not form. At this time, it is necessary to keep the dendrobium drier than usual , i.e. reduce the frequency of watering and eliminate fertilizing.

Pruning after flowering

After the last flower falls, the peduncle usually dries up. Since it no longer plays any role in the life of the plant, it is cut down to the level of a pseudobulb .

After flowering, the peduncle is cut to the level of the pseudobulb.

Transplanting dendrobium orchids at home

The dendrobium root system is very fragile and easily damaged, so it should only be replanted when necessary. There may be several reasons for replanting an orchid:

• the plant has outgrown its container and the roots are extending beyond its limits;
• the root system rots (the reasons for this will be discussed below);
• The soil in the pot has not been changed for several years and needs updating.

Unlike phalaenopsis, planting dendrobium requires an opaque container. Typically, dendrobiums are replanted after flowering has ended; late-flowering species can be replanted in the spring, when young shoots have finished growing.

The new container should be slightly wider than the previous one. A drainage layer of pebbles or crushed stone is laid at the bottom. When replanting, the dendrobium orchid is carefully removed from the pot, the roots are freed from the soil, and any damage is treated with crushed activated carbon, pitch or another similar product. After the cuts have dried, the plant is placed in a pot and carefully covered with soil, without compacting it or covering the young shoots. After transplantation, the plant is placed in a shaded place for 2–3 weeks and not watered for 3–4 days.

Features of care

Dendrobium phalaenopsis is quite unpretentious and, subject to optimal maintenance conditions, does not cause significant trouble to the owner . Hybrids tolerate indoor conditions quite well.

Optimal conditions for keeping

This species and the hybrids obtained from it are classified as warm-keeping . In the natural habitat, the climate is quite hot and precipitation is more or less regular. Although a pronounced period of drought is also present.

Temperature

It is believed that for species plants the optimal daytime temperature should be from 28°C to 32°C, and night temperature - from 23°C to 26°C. Hybrids grow best at lower temperatures ranging from 18°C ​​to 24°C.

Under these conditions, the plant will constantly form new shoots and bloom without problems.

However, the plant is able to withstand temperatures that are far beyond the temperature optimum: from 10°C to 42°C.

Plants can tolerate such extreme temperatures for orchids for a short time without harm to health, but they will not be able to constantly survive in such conditions.

Important! At any temperature (warm or moderate), it is important to ensure a difference of 5...6°C between day and night temperatures.

Humidity

Species orchids require high air humidity, 60% or more , but hybrids are less demanding and can tolerate less humidity. However, air humidity also plays an important role in plant growth and the likelihood of flower stalks appearing.

Light

The lighting intensity should be high enough. Dendrobium phalaenopsis easily tolerates direct sunlight , except midday in the summer, although it can adapt to it. North-facing windows may suffer from a lack of light, and in winter it is advisable to provide the plant with additional lighting.

Lighting is an important aspect in caring for orchids at home (phytolamp photo).

Landing

In apartment conditions , it is better to prefer planting on a block to prevent the roots from quickly drying out. Of course, a block planting option is also possible, but then it is necessary to maintain very high air humidity, which is quite difficult in an ordinary apartment.

When choosing a pot, you should take into account the massiveness of the plant . Large plants can turn over light plastic pots after the substrate dries out. In this case, for tall specimens, we can recommend special clay pots for orchids.

A mixture of coniferous bark and charcoal can be used as a substrate . Some growers also add coconut chips or other ingredients. Including perlite or pieces of foam to increase the breathability of the substrate.

If the humidity in the room is low or the exposure is southern you can add moss to the substrate to increase its moisture capacity.

Transfer

It is recommended to replant every 2-3 years , unless there is an urgent need to replace the substrate. However, replanting after purchase in a store is required if the plant has already bloomed.

When choosing the optimal time for transplantation, it is necessary to take into account the condition of the plant. It is best to replant when the dendrobium has begun to form new growth , because... Young roots form and grow quickly on it, which will help the freshly transplanted plant quickly gain a foothold in the new substrate.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis should be replanted when young roots appear.

Watering and fertilizing

The frequency of watering depends on the moisture capacity of the substrate, the conditions of the plant and the drying rate. The substrate should dry out between waterings, but the roots should not dry out.

Important! Feeding is carried out 2-3 times a month. When choosing a fertilizer composition, it is necessary to take into account the stage of plant development. During the growth of new shoots and elongation of pseudobulbs, the plant has a higher need for nitrogen.

When growth has stopped and the pseudobulb has formed, you need to reduce the nitrogen concentration and give preference to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which are necessary for flowering.

Prevention of diseases and pests

Dendrobium phalaenopsis is affected less frequently by pests and diseases than other types of orchids , but basic preventive measures must be observed:

• be sure to inspect purchased plants, carry out preventive treatment and keep them for some time separately from other indoor flowers;
• observe the watering regime to prevent waterlogging of the substrate and death of the roots.

Planting/growing

A plant purchased in a store does not need to be replanted for at least 2-3 years. With proper care and feeding, both the pot and the substrate in which it is located will last for several years. Dendrobium prefers a cramped container, so it is better not to rush with replanting, as in principle with any orchid; the less we disturb it, the stronger and healthier the plant. If you still decide to replant the plant ahead of schedule, you can use pine bark as a substrate. The flower endures this process extremely painfully, so it is carried out as rarely as possible.

Phalaenopsis dendrobium is transplanted into a small plastic, ceramic or clay pot. It is desirable that the color of the pot be light. For good air circulation, light access and to prevent root rotting, it is recommended to make small holes throughout the container. A drainage layer must be placed at the bottom of the pot. Crushed brick, crushed stone, and foam are perfect for this.

Next, the soil mixture is laid. It cannot be compacted; the soil must be loose. But the plant must be securely fastened in the pot. To do this, you can put several pieces of broken brick on the bottom or carefully secure the plant with wire. After the flower is planted, you need to spray the leaves and top layer of soil with water from a spray bottle.

In order to understand whether the phalaenopsis dendrobium needs replanting, you should evaluate the condition of the soil, the above-ground part and the root system. Replanting will definitely be needed when the substrate begins to rot, thereby causing damage to the roots and shoots. If the soil begins to crumble and stops absorbing water, then it’s time to change it. If the roots do not have enough space in the pot, you should immediately start replanting. Otherwise, the plant may simply die. As a rule, a planned transplant is carried out once every 2-3 years.

Before starting the procedure, you should stock up on fresh substrate, a new pot and tools for removing rotten parts of the root system, which must be disinfected. Remember, the roots of an orchid are very fragile, so you need to act slowly and carefully. After removing the faded orchid, you should carefully remove the old soil. To thoroughly clean the orchid roots, you should rinse them under warm water.

Before transplanting, you should carefully examine the flower for the presence of parasites and diseases. Next, you need to dry the plant for 8-10 hours. The bottom of the new pot should also be treated with an antiseptic. Transplantation is carried out only after flowering, but preferably not during the dormant period. The best time for transplantation is traditionally spring.

The soil mixture for orchids is unusual. The soil composition includes bark, sphagnum, peat, and charcoal. Specialized stores sell ready-made substrate, but you can prepare the soil yourself. When preparing the soil yourself, it is important to remember the need to disinfect its components. The bottom of the pot is lined with crushed stone or broken brick. This is necessary to create a drainage layer. It is recommended not to use expanded clay and limestone, as orchids do not tolerate them well. Bark is laid on top of the drainage layer, then peat. Peat has the acidity needed for dendrobium. The choice of pot is also very important. It is better to give priority to clay containers. The container should not be too large. There should be no more than a couple of centimeters between the wall of the planting container and the roots of the plant.

Growing problems

Despite the relative ease of the species, certain difficulties with its maintenance may still arise. Most often they are associated with root loss and flowering.

Resuscitation of dendrobium without roots

If the roots are completely lost, it is better to remove the plant from the pot, remove all rotten roots, treat the damage and place it on a sphagnum substrate.

Plants without roots are sprayed and fed leaf by leaf to prevent leaves and pseudobulbs from wrinkling. The plant is kept in this form until new growth appears. It is on the new growth that roots will form.

After they have grown a few millimeters, the plant can be placed in a pot with a substrate, tied to a support so that the dendrobium does not stagger and injure the young roots.

The roots will quickly increase in size and master the substrate. To stimulate root growth, the surface of the substrate must be periodically sprayed.

Dendrobium without roots.

No flowering

If the plant refuses to bloom, it is necessary first of all to analyze the conditions of maintenance and care. Perhaps to stimulate flowering it is enough to simply reduce the night temperature or provide additional lighting.

Propagation of dendrobium orchid at home

Propagating dendrobium is quite simple; this can be done in one of two ways.

Dividing the bush . After flowering, the dendrobium can be replanted and divided. To do this, an adult plant is removed from the pot, the roots are cleared of soil and carefully unraveled. Then, with a sharp, disinfected instrument, the divisions are cut off; each of them should have at least three pseudobulbs (stems) and young shoots. The cut areas should be sprinkled with activated carbon, covered with garden varnish or a special paste for treating damage to plants.

By cuttings . This is a slightly more complex method of propagating dendrobium orchids, but it is less traumatic for the plant.

Old shoots are cut into pieces with several internodes, the sections are sprinkled with charcoal or coated. The cuttings are placed on moistened sphagnum moss in a greenhouse (a plastic or glass container is suitable) or simply in a bag. The greenhouse is kept in a bright, warm place (20 – 25 °C) with diffused lighting, opened every day for ventilation and the substrate is periodically moistened. After 2 - 3 weeks, young shoots should appear at the nodes of the cuttings. When they develop roots, they can be planted in separate containers.

Popular varieties and hybrids

Currently, there are a huge number of varieties of phalaenopsis dendrobium , which differ in the shape and size of pseudobulbs, diameter, shape and color of flowers.

More often than others on store shelves you can find hybrids of the Emma series:

• Emma Gold with yellow petals and burgundy lip;
• Emma Queen with bright lilac petals;
• Emma White with snow-white flowers;
• Emma Green with green petals and purple lip.

No less popular is the variety with green flowers Anna Green.

variety has a very delicate flower color . When blooming, the slightly greenish petals turn white, and light lilac strokes are clearly visible on the lip.

Emma Gold.

Emma Queen.

Emma White.

Emma Green.

Anna Green.

Snow jade.

General care for Dendrobium Phalaenopsis before and after flowering.

The main types of Dendrobiums that are sold in our stores are Dendrobium Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium Nobile. Despite their general similarity, they have different flowers in appearance and differ in care. In our article we will talk about Dendrobium Phalaenopsis. It is named so because its flowers are very similar to those of Phalaenopsis, although it is a completely different species.

This is an easy to care for orchid. You can grow it either in plastic pots or on a block made of any material convenient for you. Basically, peeled coconut or cork oak bark is used as a block.

This species, like most orchids, is an epiphyte; in nature it grows on tree trunks without parasitizing them; it uses the trunks only as a support (photo No. 1). In flower shops we can only purchase hybrid Dendrobium orchids in plastic pots.

Spring.

Most Dendrobiums are plants of a monsoon climate, the peculiarities of which are the predominance of precipitation in summer and its almost complete absence in winter, and therefore have a pronounced dormant period. This dormant period occurs in the autumn-winter period.

With the onset of spring, the growing season begins, the orchid needs

• air temperature from +20°С to +24°С,
• humidity - at least 70-80%,
• prefers bright but diffuse lighting.

With the appearance of young growths (photo No. 2), you need to fertilize 1-2 times a week with a balanced fertilizer (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium-microelements) in a concentration two times lower than for other indoor plants.

If the Dendrobium Phalaenopsis is located on the windows of a southern landmark, then from the second half of March you need to make sure that the bright sun does not harm the young shoots and be sure to shade it with a light curtain at noon. You can use aluminum blinds, but you need to be careful; improperly directed slats can also reflect the flow of light and cause thermal burns to both bulbs and leaves. The optimal window sill for this plant is eastern (photo No. 3)

Summer.

In the summer, caring for Dendobium is:

• air temperature - up to +27°C,
• air humidity is high,
• fertilizers - up to once a week.

In fact, spring and summer are the time of growth of young shoots and their complete formation to the size of last year’s mature pseudobulbs. During this period, the role of the bulbs is to accumulate as much useful substances and moisture as possible, as happens in natural conditions, which is, in principle, characteristic of plants leading an epiphytic lifestyle.

As soon as the Dendrobium orchid has stopped growing and the bulbs (former sprouts) have inflated, we begin to feed them with fertilizer with an increased percentage of potassium and phosphorus (IMPORTANT!) for the formation of flower buds, for the brightness of flowering and their abundant budding. Some orchid growers recommend applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizers a little earlier, at the moment the new bulb is formed at about 1/2 of its mother size. You can use fertilizer for flowering indoor plants (for example, Mr. Color Violet or Hylea for ornamental flowering plants or any other) in a concentration half as low as that indicated for other plants, or better yet, use a special fertilizer for orchids according to the instructions on the label (I recommend Mr. Color Orchid ).

Mass flowering occurs at the end of summer - beginning of autumn. A day-night air temperature difference, even a difference of 5°C, stimulates flowering.

With the approach of cooler nights at the end of August, a small flower stalk appears on the top of the bulb (photo No. 4), which, in good light, develops very quickly and forms buds along the entire length (photo No. 5).

Peduncles can develop both at the top of the pseudobulbs and in the upper axils of the leaves (photo No. 6). The more tuberidia (bulbs, pseudobulbs) a bush has, the stronger the plant as a whole and the more new bulbs it will be able to form over the spring-summer, ready for full, abundant flowering. In principle, peduncles may also appear on last year’s propseudobulbs that did not flourish.

And here is the result - Dendrobium Phalaenopsis bloomed. Stunningly beautiful flowers (photo No. 7, 8, 9), which really look like the flowers of another type of orchid - Phalaenopsis!

Autumn winter

Caring for a Dendrobium orchid after flowering involves reducing watering, which will force the plant to rest. The dormant period occurs at the end of autumn - the beginning of winter, this period is not as pronounced as it happens in nature, but the plant must be allowed to rest and gain strength over the winter.

Winter care:

• average winter temperature from +15°С to +20°С,
• air humidity is as high as possible,
• watering - occasionally - once every one and a half to two weeks from a watering can along the edge of the pot.

The lower the room temperature, the less frequent the watering. As soon as young shoots (sprouts) appear at the base of the bulbs, this is a sign that the plant has woken up, spring is ahead, we resume watering and fertilizing.

Care in different seasons

Deciduous dendrobiums (for example, Nobile) overwinter at +10 °C…+14 °C. This temperature is maintained from November to February. Flowers are transferred to their usual environment (including the street) only after fresh buds have formed.

During the active growing season, epiphytes are comfortable if the air warms up to +25 °C during the day and cools down to +20 °C at night.

In winter, for those orchids that need a period of rest, watering is kept to a minimum. The owners simply need to prevent the roots from drying out.

All dendrobiums need high humidity. To comply with this condition, we recommend spraying them with settled water daily in the summer. It is necessary to ensure that liquid does not accumulate in the axils of the foliage, which provokes rotting.

In winter, moistened moss will help reduce air dryness. It is placed directly into the pot. Alternatively, it is permissible to simply place a wide container filled with water near the flower.

Important: the humidity cannot be increased in the entire room - in such conditions, fungi and bacteria will begin to actively develop there, which will sooner or later reach your greenhouse.

The growing season for dendrobiums begins in April and ends in September. During this period it is necessary to use special complex fertilizers. They are given every 2 weeks. You should make a low concentration fertilizer solution - dilute the composition twice as much as the instructions advise.

Evergreen orchids (for example, phalaenopsis) need phosphorus-potassium mixtures in winter, and deciduous orchids need nitrogen mixtures. They are given at the above frequency.

Pots for most epiphytes are chosen to be opaque, with perforations both on the bottom and on the walls. Only phalaenopsis needs containers that transmit light. To prevent them from tipping over, crushed stone drainage is placed inside.

A mixture of bark and moss, taken in equal proportions, is used as soil. Additionally, a little bit is put there:

• peat;
• charcoal.

If the substrate is made independently, then it must be sterilized with boiling water.

Dendrobiums do not require pruning. As necessary, simply tear off the wilted buds that have had time to bloom and dead shoots.

Bloom

It is necessary to especially carefully care for orchids in winter, during the dormant period. Only if everything is done correctly will they bloom. Buds usually appear in February. When this does not happen, the plant should be fed.

As soon as the orchid fades, the intensity of watering gradually decreases and then they stop giving water altogether.

The pot is moved to a cool place. And the peduncle must be cut off from the dendrobium. When the selected location is not well lit, it is worth using phytolamps.

Reproduction methods

Dendrobium orchid - propagation at home

Dendrobium propagates by cuttings and dividing the bush.

Dividing the bush

Dividing the mother bush

It is recommended to divide the bush in the spring, after the plant has flowered. Usually this process coincides with transplantation.

How to do division step by step: basic rules?

1. The mother plant needs to be removed from the pot, shake off all the soil
2. Then you need to untangle the roots, and very tangled ones will have to be cut with a sharp knife
3. When dividing, you need to make sure that each part contains at least 2 bulbs and the same number of sprouts.

The cut must be made with a disinfected knife. It is recommended to powder the cut areas with activated carbon powder.

Cuttings

Dendrobium propagation

1 After the pseudobulb is cut from the mother bush, it must be cut into cuttings 10 cm long.

2 Next, take a bag with a Zip fastener, fill it with nutritious substrate or sphagnum moss, and moisten it.

3 Plant 1 cutting in each bag, zip it up and place it in a bright place .

4 Good rooting is observed at a temperature of + 23-24°C. Further care involves ventilating the mini-greenhouse daily and moistening the substrate as needed.

5 Rooting occurs within 3 weeks. Then you need to transplant into new pots. Rastuski must be protected from the scorching sun. Orchids bloom for 2-3 years.

Description of the plant

In nature, the plant lives in tropical rainforests and mountainous regions of Indochina, Japan, India, Southern China, Malaysia, Indonesia, and the Pacific Islands. It grows as an epiphyte, attaching its roots to the bark of trees, justifying its name - dendrobium, translated from ancient Greek as “living on a tree”, but there are also lithophytic species of dendrobium orchids that prefer to settle in rock crevices at an altitude of up to 2 thousand m.

The appearance of the Dendrobium orchid is incredibly beautiful. Fragrant, like wax, flowers with a circumference of 6–8 cm from light lilac to pink color are located in 2–4-flowered inflorescences on short peduncles emerging from the axils of linear-lanceolate leaves, reaching a length of 7–10 cm. The anterior edge of the curled lip rounded, lateral outlines, like ruffles, wavy.

Under natural conditions, pseudobulbs-stems reach significant sizes - up to 60–90 cm, but indoor varieties and hybrids are much more compact and, as a rule, do not exceed 30–50 cm. In young plants, pseudobulbs are erect, droop with age and need support. Old pseudobulbs change color from bright green to yellowish and the leaves fall off. Usually, at the age of 2–4 years, they die off, forming a bunch of “babies” at the top.

A healthy, developing dendrobium orchid has white roots covered with a layer of velamen, with orange-red or green tips. If the plant stops growing, the coloring of the root ends disappears.

By carefully observing your exotic beauty, you can always notice changes in its development; the main thing is to understand the life cycle and, in accordance with it, provide proper care for the dendrobium orchid.

Possible problems: diseases, pests

Dendrobium orchid

Improper care affects the quality of plant growth and development. At this time, fungal diseases can occur, which lead to death.

Bacterial rot

Bacterial rot

Over-wetting the soil promotes the development of root rot. If this happens, the flower is unlikely to be saved. But you need to try. It will be necessary to immediately transplant the diseased specimen into new soil .

During transplantation, you need to inspect the root system, remove all rotten roots, trim them to healthy tissue. Sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal and place the plant in a pot with new soil.

The reanimated dendrobium cannot be watered for 1.5 weeks!

In addition to various diseases, the orchid and all representatives of the Orchid family are attacked by pests such as spider mites, thrips, and scale insects. Before using insecticides, damaged leaves are removed and the plants are treated.

Dendrobium transplant

Why did the stems wrinkle? If the pseudobulbs wrinkle during the growth of young shoots, then this phenomenon is considered normal and should not be paid attention to.

Shrinking occurs because the young shoots do not yet have their own roots, so their nutrition comes from the mother plant.

During this period, you should not over-moisten the soil, as this will lead to rotting of the roots.

Pseudobulbs shrink during the period before flowering, but watering is also prohibited.

Why did babies appear instead of flowers? Abundant flowering must be preceded by a period of rest, during which certain conditions must be met:

• the pot with the plant should be in a well-lit place, but you need to know that the orchid does not tolerate drafts
• the difference between day and night temperatures should be at least 10°
• Do not water or fertilize

If you do not monitor the plant and start watering it earlier, the flower buds will degenerate into vegetative ones and children will appear.

Proper care is the key to a healthy plant!

What causes leaf fall? If during flowering the leaves turn yellow and fall off (the lower ones) - this is considered normal, the upper ones - it is necessary to observe the flower to find out the cause and determine the disease.

Young shoots grow too thin. That's how it should be. The sprouts become familiar in appearance only after growth stops and pseudobulbs begin to form.

No flowering. If the dendrobium does not bloom, it means the plant is not provided with a sufficient level of light, or it did not have a dormant .

The pseudobulb has turned brown or yellow. The natural state is slight drying, but maintaining the brightness of the green color. Slight yellowing is acceptable. If the pseudobulb turns brown or yellow, it means the roots have begun to rot and will soon begin to die.

For preventive purposes, it is recommended to inspect the plantings more often. Timely inspection of plants will help prevent various diseases and begin timely treatment. Caring for a dendrobium orchid is not at all difficult, and is not much different from caring for other indoor plants. Therefore, do not be afraid to breed it at home.

VIDEO: Flowers. Lesson 2.2. Orchid family. Part 1

Flowers. Lesson 2.2. Orchid family. Part 1

Dendrobium orchid - home care. Common types. What to do with the flower after purchase? Rules of care and reproduction | (110+ Photos and Videos)

5 Total Score

Customer ratings: 5 (1 vote)

Brief description of cultivation

1. Bloom . Its duration is from 2 to 3 months.
2. Illumination . It needs a lot of bright light, which must be diffused; do not allow direct rays of the sun to hit the bush. The duration of daylight should be at least 12 hours.
3. Temperature regime . During active growth in the daytime - from 20 to 25 degrees, and at night - from 16 to 21 degrees. Types of cool keeping in the spring-summer period require a temperature of 15 to 18 degrees during the day, and about 12 degrees at night. In winter, the air temperature during the daytime should be about 12 degrees, and at night - about 8 degrees. The night temperature should differ from the day temperature by 5–7 degrees.
4. Watering . In the spring-summer period, the substrate in the pot should be moistened abundantly, and during the dormant period, watering should be sparse.
5. Air humidity . Required high air humidity (from 50 to 80 percent). Therefore, the bush must be frequently moistened with lukewarm water from a sprayer. In winter, it is best to place the container with the flower on a tray filled with damp crushed stone.
6. Fertilizer . During the growing season (April–September), the flower is fed once every 15 days with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for orchids.
7. Rest period . It occurs after the bush has faded, and the timing depends on the type of dendrobium.
8. Transplant . Systematically every 3 or 4 years. Autumn-flowering species are replanted immediately after the appearance of young shoots, and spring-flowering species - when flowering ends.
9. Reproduction . By cuttings or dividing the bush.
10. Harmful insects . Spider mites, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs and whiteflies.
11. Diseases . Root rot, leaf spot, powdery mildew and brown rot.

How to care for the Dendrobium nobile orchid. Light, watering and fertilizer for the orchid.

Varieties of bamboo phalaenopsis with photos

There are many species of Dendrobium in the wild. Botanists have created special hybrids, bred by adapting wild plants to grow in indoor or greenhouse conditions.

How many species are there?

The genus Dendrobium includes 900 species of deciduous or evergreen orchids. In nature, there are epiphytes or lithophytes. A limited number of varieties are grown as indoor plants.

Nobile, or noble

Dendrobium Nobile is one of the spectacular and unpretentious varieties. The plant's homeland is the Himalayas, where it lives on the slopes of the mountains. Currently, about 80 varieties of this type of Dendrobium are known.

Reference! Nobile is a plant about 90 cm high and belongs to the sympodial type. The stems are swollen and straight. At the beginning of growth they are erect, but over time they begin to lie down. The leaves are oblong, elliptical.

Peduncles form on the shoots of the previous season. 3-4 buds are formed on each. The diameter of the flowers in bloom is 8-9 cm. The petals are milky cream, with a lilac edging. The lip is snow-white, pubescent, with a dark purple spot in the center. The variety blooms from mid-January to May.

Parisha

A deciduous variety native to Asia. The plant has outstretched or hanging stems 30-40 cm long. The leaves are oblong, with a pointed, notched tip.

Peduncles are leafless, form flowers 7-8 cm in diameter, lilac or pinkish in color. The lip is diamond-shaped or round, white or pink, with deep purple spots at the base.

Lindley (hanging)

Dendrobium Lindley was named after the English botanist John Lindley. The stems of the plant are short, oblong, 8-9 cm high. The shape of the stems is similar to a bulb. Each has an elongated sheet.

Lindley's peduncles are long and hanging. The flowers are golden yellow, with a pleasant aroma. The lip is pubescent, orange.

Densiflorum (dense flower)

The epiphyte is native to Southeast Asia. The height of the plant is 40-45 cm, the stems are tetrahedral, thickened in the upper part. The leaves are lanceolate or ovate, growing on the tops of the stems in groups of 3-4 pieces.

The inflorescences are dense and drooping. The diameter of the flowers is 5 cm. The petals are pale yellow, the lip is orange. The species blooms from March to early September.

Other varieties

Rarer varieties found in the collections of indoor plant lovers:

1. Beautiful. The stem is 7 cm tall, with long, thick leaves at the top. The flowers are 2-3 cm in diameter, with white petals and a yellow lip, in the center of which there is a bright red spot.
2. Fringed. The height of the bush is from 60 cm to 1.5 m. The leaves are long, arranged in 2 rows. The plant forms up to 50 peduncles, on which up to 15 buds are formed. The flower petals are yellow, the lip is fringed, of a lighter shade, with dark class=”aligncenter” width=”700″ height=”525″[/img]
3. Longhorned. It differs from other varieties in its pointed, sparse leaves. The flowers are large, elongated, with white petals, a fringed lip decorated with yellow stripes.

4. Ambonese. The height of the stems is 35 cm. The leaves are leathery, oval, up to 15 cm in length, located at the top of the growths of 2-3 pieces. Flowers with elongated, white-cream petals. The lip is yellow, with a dark red border.

5. Golden. The plant is native to Asia, 30 cm high. The bulbs are spindle-shaped, slightly flattened. Peduncles 15-45 cm high, form inflorescences with 10-20 buds each. The color of the petals is golden or yellow-orange, the lip is round, with a fringed edge, decorated with a red or brown-orange spot in the center.

6. Christie. The variety is named after the botanist Thomas Christie. The height of the plant is 8-14 cm, the length of the pseudobulbs is from 5 to 8 cm. The leaves are dark green, covered with black hairs on the underside. Peduncles are short, formed in the internodes on the sides of the pseudobulbs. Petals are white and cream. The lip is wide, reminiscent of a violin with a yellow-orange spot class=”aligncenter” width=”700″ height=”465″[/img]
7. Primrose. A densely leafed variety with unusual flower colors: the petals are pale lilac, the lip is yellowish-white, covered with purple stripes. The diameter of the flowers is 4-8 cm.
8. Leafless. A variety with long, drooping pseudobulbs. At the nodes of last year's shoots, shortened peduncles with one to three pale pink buds are formed. The lip is creamy, with a fringed edge. The diameter of the flowers is 3-5 cm.
9. Unique. The plant is native to Laos and Thailand. Pseudobulbs are 20 cm long, green when young, red when mature. Leaves are lanceolate, 7.5 cm long. Peduncles form on bald pseudobulbs. Flowers with orange petals, a boat-shaped lip (it is yellow, with red veins).
10. Moniliform. Japanese variety. The height of the stem is about 20 cm. Each bulb produces 2 inflorescences with white and pink petals. The lip in the center is decorated with a light green spot.

Features of Dendrobium transplantation

Dendrobiums are transplanted no more often than once every two to four years, since they do not like this procedure. You need a good reason for this, such as:

• pieces of bark in the substrate turned into dust;
• the root system has filled the entire planting container, displacing the substrate, and now it is clearly not enough to support the plant;
• roots stick out above the surface of the substrate;
• due to the tightness of the pot, the flower stopped growing;
• a coating of salty soil appeared on the roots.

This may be interesting: Types and varieties of Dendrobium orchids

Dendrobium should be replanted in the spring, when the plant is just emerging from dormancy and is preparing for active growth. We do not recommend replanting during flowering. But, if there is a suspicion of rotting of the root system, there is no need to wait for favorable conditions, urgently start replanting.

Soil for replanting

A special substrate for Dendrobium is prepared or purchased, different from the substrate for other indoor flowers. It is more loose, lightweight, moisture-permeable and breathable. It consists of large pieces (1-3 cm) of pine bark (2 hours), large expanded clay (1 hour), charcoal (1 hour). Sometimes, pieces of sphagnum moss are added here. But not much, so that excess moisture does not cause rotting of the roots. The substrate performs more of a function of fixing the roots than feeding the flower. Expanded clay and coal accumulate moisture during watering, and then gradually release it to the bark. Coal is also needed to prevent fungal diseases and fight mold that may appear in pieces of pine bark. If you prepare the substrate yourself, take the time to disinfect all components of the soil mixture. Boil the bark a couple of times, then dry it well. If you buy a ready-made substrate for epiphytic or orchids, you will not go wrong.

Pot for Dendrobium

Prepare a ceramic or plastic pot for transplanting Dendrobium, slightly larger than the root ball. Not necessarily transparent - these are needed only for Phalaenopsis. Dendrobiums in transparent pots have roots that overheat. Be sure to lay a good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot from the largest pieces of bark or expanded clay.

Dendrobium orchid transplant process

Now proceed to transplanting the plant itself.
Remove it from the pot. Free the roots from the substrate and inspect them. Trim those that are damaged, rotten or too long. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal. Let them dry a little. After this, place the bush in a new pot on a layer of drainage. Cover the roots with substrate so that there are no voids between the roots. Water it. It is advisable that two to three cm from the top of the pot to the base of the rosette remain free. Then, as the aerial roots grow, there will be room in the pot to add substrate. A large specimen of the Dendrobium orchid with fleshy, heavy leaves needs to be strengthened in the substrate. During replanting, we recommend installing a support in the pot and immediately tying the flower to it so that it does not wobble.

After transplantation, it will take a couple of weeks until the flower regains its strength. At this time he needs help. Place the pot in a bright, warm place with high humidity, but in partial shade. If the interference in the root system of the plant was noticeable, we recommend placing the transplanted plant in a large plastic bag to create a greenhouse effect - it will be easier for Dendrobium to recover. For a couple of weeks. Look into the bag and ventilate it if necessary. If the flower looks strong and cheerful, take it out of the bag and put it in its rightful place - let it grow with renewed vigor.

Propagation of Dendrobium nobilis

Dendrobium can be propagated by so-called “babies” (young shoots with leaves) that appear on the shoots. Reproduction is carried out after flowering, during the growth period of the plant.

When the “babies” have a sufficient number of roots for independent growth, carefully separate the first ones from the shoot, without damaging it, using a thin sharp knife. If the roots are long and tough, soak them in water for a few minutes to soften them. This will make landing easier.

Then plant the “babies” in the soil mixture (see p. 77). Do not water until new roots appear. Just spray with water from time to time.

Dendrobium Phalaenopsis care

Caring for Dendrobium Phalaenopsis at home is very simple. It will develop quickly and unhindered in pots made of plastic or another material that you may like better. Often cork oak blocks or carefully cleaned coconut shells are used for this purpose. Dendrobium Phalaenopsis is not classified as a parasitic plant; the tree trunks where it grows in its natural environment are needed by the plant as support.

Choosing a pot

In case of cultivation, it is better to give preference to a clay pot, which will provide the plant with guaranteed stability. The size of the pot should be based on the size of the plant's root. It should come out of the pot freely. It is important that the distance from the sides is not less than 1 centimeter. The Dendrophalaenopsis orchid can also grow well in a plastic pot.

Dishes

To transplant the Dendrobium phalaenopsis hybrid, use a ceramic or clay pot of small volume and light color. To ensure good air circulation and access to light, the pot must have holes.

As a waterproof drainage, a layer of crushed stone, broken brick or pieces of foam plastic can be laid at the bottom. Moreover, the drainage layer should be thicker towards the center of the pot. Next, a layer of substrate is laid without compaction.

Baskets with ferns and even ordinary planks are used as dishes for deciduous Dendrobium phalaenopsis. Due to the fact that the stems of this type of orchid hang down freely, the dishes with the plant should be hung. This will allow the plant to make maximum use of sunlight.

At the end of the transplantation procedure, the plant itself and the surface of the substrate are sprayed. Regular watering begins after the first roots appear.

We hope that the information presented on caring for the hybrid Dendrobium phalaenopsis at home will help you not only in replanting the plant, but will also provide the orchid with a long growing season, accompanied by abundant flowering.

Lighting

Among the climatic conditions for the hybrid Dendrobium phalaenopsis, direct sunlight is considered the most critical, direct exposure to which must be excluded.

Although the plant will benefit most from a southeast-facing window sill, you can experiment a little and find a more suitable location in your home.

In winter, when the light level noticeably decreases, the plant may respond by almost completely stopping growth. In this case, it is recommended to provide the orchid with additional lighting.

Temperature

In its ability to survive in difficult climatic conditions, the hybrid Dendrobium phalaenopsis is truly an opportunist. The temperature range in which the plant can exist ranges from +10°C to +42°C, sometimes even exceeding these limits.

If we talk about the optimal temperature values, then for Dendrobium phalaenopsis it is +18 +25°C.

The orchid prefers a fairly high air humidity of 70-80%, within which the processes of absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen gain the necessary momentum, and the plant blooms magnificently.

Watering the hybrid Dendrobium phalaenopsis

The hybrid's need for water directly depends on the air temperature and light intensity. These indicators speed up metabolism, and the orchid needs to be watered more often and more abundantly.

The intensity of watering must be combined with lighting. With low lighting but good watering, moisture can accumulate in the plant. Mostly, excess moisture in the orchid accumulates in the upper layer of the horses, called “velamen”. Such accumulations in most cases lead to the development of root rot, therefore, in low light and in winter, the intensity of watering the Dendrobium phalaenopsis orchid is reduced.

For irrigation, you need to use hot tap water, which is first cooled to room temperature. This is due to the fact that the water heated at the thermal power plant undergoes pre-treatment for both softening and disinfection purposes. The output is softened water, ideal for watering Dendrobium phalaenopsis hybrids. In some cases, it is allowed to mix such water with distilled water in a one-to-one ratio.

In some cases, watering can be done using a hot shower. It consists of watering the stems and leaves of the plant with water at a temperature of +35+40C. Water should flow to the roots. After the plants have completely dried, this shower is repeated. For each Dendrobium phalaenopsis hybrid plant, the time for complete drying will be strictly individual. In hot weather - 2-3 days, in cloudy and cool weather - up to 20.

The average time for orchids to absorb nutrients is about a week.

You can determine the need for watering, as well as how moist the soil is, by milking the Dendrobium phalaenopsis hybrid using an ordinary wooden stick. To do this, it is stuck into the substrate to the very bottom of the pot. It is necessary to water the plant if the wooden stick removed from the substrate is dry. It must be taken into account that in the center the substrate is moister than at the edges of the pot.

Watering

This type of orchid should be watered in the morning. Caring for Dendrophalaenopsis in this regard requires the use of cool water. The watering schedule for the plant may depend on the type of pot the orchid is planted in, the temperature, and the time of year. As a general rule, you will need to water your orchid more frequently during the warmer months and less frequently during the cooler months. While the Dendrobium is in active growth, the roots and growing medium should be kept moist (watered about once a week), but dryness will not harm the orchid when it is no longer active.

Humidity

When caring for Dendrobium Phalaenopsis, you need to monitor the humidity. The Dendrobium orchid is not capricious in this regard; the Phalaenopsis orchid requires a humidity range for cultivation - 50-60% humidity. If you need to increase the humidity in the environment, you can place the orchid near a humidifier. Remember that you must have adequate air movement for your orchids. The room should be regularly ventilated.

Trimming

Very often, gardeners doubt whether it is necessary to prune the plant after flowering. This can only be done when the orchid begins to dry out. In this case, pruning is carefully done with disinfected sharp scissors. The Dendrobium Phalaenopsis orchid will not benefit from this procedure if it still has green buds on the pseudobulb.

Transfer rules

The dendrophalaenopsis orchid needs this procedure every two years or when the ground becomes damp and moisture is no longer absorbed so well by the roots. Before replanting, remove all old media and trim damaged roots with a sterile cutting instrument. This type of plant tends to grow best in smaller pots where the roots are tightly packed together, however, once the roots begin to outgrow the pot, it is time to replant.

Period of stagnation

The orchid does not have a pronounced period of stagnation. However, it stops actively growing during periods when the amount of daylight decreases. In the autumn and winter, you can notice that the green tip of the orchid no longer develops, and the root system also stops developing. This is normal. To support the orchid during stagnation, you need to reduce the frequency of watering.

Top dressing

Phalaenopsis Dendrobium orchid home care requires regular feeding when it is in the growth phase. Feeding every two to three weeks during the summer months and once a month during the winter should be sufficient.

Spraying

To properly care for the Dendrobium phalaenopsis orchid, in addition to watering, it is also recommended to use spraying. It will also be appropriate for surface feeding.

In hot weather, to cool the leaves, spray only their outer surface. On the inside of the leaf blade there are stomata, which are responsible for gas exchange in the plant. If water gets on the stomata, they open, which disrupts gas exchange and negatively affects the orchid, especially in winter.

Reproduction methods

The main and only method of reproduction is vegetative.
Dendrobium phalaenopsis can form babies on pseudobulbs, which can be planted as soon as they grow new roots 1-2 cm long.

Old well-grown bushes can be divided when transplanting , but each division should have several pseudobulbs and new growth.

Reproduction

Reproduction of Dendrobium Phalaenopsis occurs vegetatively. Before propagation, the plant must go through a flowering phase. When the pseudobulb has matured, a peduncle will appear on it. On it, in turn, buds will form, which will bloom into flowers. One pseudobulb can contribute to the flowering period twice, but only with an ideal care regime.

The flowering process often occurs in spring and summer. Dendrobium Phalaenopsis and its varieties can be different and have an impact on flowering time and its characteristics. The variety also determines the color of the flower; it can be white, purple, pink and lilac.

Owners of Dendrobium Phalaenopsis need to know that when the babies begin to bloom after flowering, it is time to reproduce. The separation of children occurs after they are fully formed. After separation, the junction is dried, for which the children are left outside for a day. To plant Dendrobium Phalaenopsis you will need the best quality soil and bark (fraction - from 5 to 10 mm).

Advice! For a baby Dendrobium Phalaenopsis, the temperature regime should correspond to that of an adult plant.
There are two alternative propagation options: cuttings and dividing the bush. Both options are carried out after flowering. Well, you already know how Dendrobium Phalaenopsis blooms.

Photo:

Dendrobium Burana Greenstar

GENERAL INFORMATION:

In 1852, another species of orchid was found in Papua New Guinea, listed in botanical reference books under the name Dendrobium bigibbum. Almost 30 years later, in 1880, another biologist found exactly the same species of orchids, but since there was no computer network at that time, communications were very mediocre, he decided that he was the discoverer of this species and gave it another name - Dendrobium phalaenopsis. So the same orchid got two different names, since Dendrobium bigibbum is the original version, it is the only one that is originally correct, and all the others, and Dendrobium phalaenopsis in particular, are SYNONYMS.

As soon as the sale of hybrid orchids reached a mass level, and the first orchids began to appear not in greenhouses and conservatories, but in our houses on the windowsills, it was decided VERY CONDITIONALLY to combine all similar hybrids obtained from Dendrobium bigibbum into a special group - Dendrobium Typ "phalaenopsis"

.

Dendrobium bigibbum [syn. phalaenopsis] is not the only orchid widely used in hybridization; along with it are also Dendrobium schulleri (all yellow and green varieties), Dendrobium stratiotes, Dendrobium tokai and many others.

The general (impersonal) name of the GROUP is Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis”, and the name of a specific orchid (its personal name) is Dendrobium Emma, ​​Dendrobium Emma White or Dendrobium Burana Green.

Dendrobium Typ "phalaenopsis" is a sympodial orchid, consisting of pseudobulbs growing quite closely to each other. Pseudobulbs can be thin, thick, spindle-shaped, pear-shaped, short, long (up to 60 cm) - absolutely anything, each individual variety is individual in its own way. As a rule, the leaves are concentrated in the upper half of the pseudobulb, they are also very diverse in shape and structure - lanceolate, hard, rounded, soft, etc., they last for 2-3 years, very often turn yellow and fall off just before flowering. The only thing that unites all this diversity into one group is the way the peduncles appear; they grow from the very top, if Dendrobium bigibbum itself predominates in the hybrid, and in the upper third, if some other natural species dominates, as a rule, such varieties give 3-4 peduncles on each pseudobulb, first at the very top, and then 2-3 pieces a little lower. The peduncle is in the form of a cluster, carrying from 5 to 40 flowers of various colors from pure white to very dark red, almost black, most often variegated. The size of the flowers is also varied, most often 3-8 cm in diameter, they can be fragrant and completely odorless.

LIFE CYCLE

each individual pseudobulb can be described as follows:

Swelling of the bud ⇒ DEVELOPMENT OF A NEW SPROUT ⇒ FORMATION OF A NEW PSEUDOBULB (CONVERSION OF A SPROUT INTO A PSEUDOBULB) ⇒ FLOWERING OF PSEUDOBULB

New young orchid shoots appear from certain buds concentrated at the base of the pseudobulbs and on the nodules (isthmuses) where the leaf was once attached to the pseudobulb. At the same time, the lower buds of many varieties of this group of orchids are very clearly visible with the naked eye, but the buds on the isthmuses are much smaller and are not always very easy to see. A shoot that emerges from a large bud at the base of a pseudobulb is likely to grow more developed than one that may emerge from a small nodal bud, so traditionally the lower shoots are considered NEW SPROUTS

, and any others -
CHILDREN
. The new sprout is stronger and is capable of blooming after its formation is completed, but with children it is more complicated, they can be anything - well developed, even blooming in the first year, or very small. It's all individual.

Photo:

New shoot (growing at the base of the pseudobulb)

TEMPERATURE:

Hybrid orchids of the Dendrobium Typ "phalaenopsis" group are truly one of the easiest to keep, as they are able to adapt to almost any temperature conditions - from 10-12 °C to 37-42 °C. However, the ability to tolerate heat or cold without harm to health and the ability to like (or rather grow well and bloom regularly) a certain temperature are two big differences.

The IDEAL temperature regime is moderate-warm with a strong bias towards moderation. If your orchid is kept all year round in good light and a temperature ranging from + 18 °C to + 24 °C, then it will not only grow new shoots without interruption, but will also bloom immediately after their formation. This is the IDEAL temperature regime, i.e. the goal towards which you (if possible) should strive. However, we all understand perfectly well that not every window sill in our apartment, and not every apartment, can provide us with an ideal temperature regime; in winter our radiators are heated, in summer the sun is hot and other nuances. Don't panic! In such conditions, the orchid will grow and bloom, it will just do so somewhat slower, compared to the ideal.

When growing plants under the conditions of an ordinary windowsill, it is not the DAY temperature that comes to the fore, but the NIGHT temperature. The thing is that Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis”, like most other tropical orchids, is able to grow in two different modes - in conditions of high air humidity, such as in a greenhouse, conservatory, orchidarium, and in conditions of low air humidity, for example , in nature during a period of drought, when it is hot, sunny and no rain, and on an ordinary windowsill. The ability to change from one mode to another is inherent in the orchid by nature itself and is present in almost all representatives of this group.

Photo:

Baby (grows above the base of the pseudobulb)

The main difference between the two modes, understandable to the average person, is that with an air humidity of 70% (C3 / C4 PHOTOSYNTHESIS), the orchid can capture carbon dioxide (CO2), vital for the construction of new cells, in the daytime and immediately release it for recycling. A completely different picture is observed with low air humidity (CAM PHOTOSYNTHESIS), the stomata through which gas exchange occurs cannot open during the day, and capture CO2 only at night, accumulate it, and process it for the benefit of the plant already in the daytime, i.e. both processes occur in a time-bound manner, hence the slower development of the orchid.

Air humidity is not the only factor influencing the ability to fix carbon dioxide; during CAM PHOTOSYNTHESIS, the ambient temperature also plays a significant role. It should not be higher than 22-24 °C, otherwise CO2 simply will not be fixed, and the night will pass in vain. It is this particular feature of the work of orchid stomata that has given rise to a strict recommendation to keep orchids at home under daily temperature fluctuations. It is not so important at what temperature you keep your orchid during the day, the main thing is that at night it is at least 22-24 °C, and preferably 18-20 °C [read more about the influence of temperatures in the life of orchids...].

LIGHT:

Preferences for sunlight are quite heterogeneous throughout the group; if Dendrobium bigibbum itself dominates in the hybrid, then for harmonious development and regular flowering the orchid will need EASTERN

or
SOUTHEAST
side. Green or yellow orchids may require a little more light, since other natural parents occupy a dominant position in them. If your living conditions allow you to keep the orchid on different windows, try observing it in the south, west and east and choose the most suitable option.

SOUTH

and
WEST
windows are suitable for all plants without exception, however, they must be used wisely. In spring and summer, the light intensity here is very high, and some hybrids may turn red or even burn in the hot midday sun, especially if they are kept in a dry state for a long time. Observe the movement of direct rays along the windowsill during the day, there will always be a place where they either do not fall at all, or they only shine purposefully until noon, when the sun is not so hot - a way out of the situation has been found. As an alternative, you can place the plant for the summer period not on the window itself, but behind a tulle curtain on a table or shelf near the window (distance no more than 1-1.5 m). A combination of windows has worked well when the orchid grows on the south side in autumn and winter, and on the east side in spring and summer.

Photo:

Peduncles at the top of the pseudobulb

NORTH

the window is not suitable for every hybrid from the Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” group; as a rule, their color is dominated by white or soft pink tones.
In any case, it’s worth a try with any orchid, but if it (being healthy) does not bloom within 18-20 months, then either the place needs to be changed, or in addition to the usual lighting, install artificial light lamps - PHYTO LAMPS
[read more about lighting orchids ...].

SUBSTRATE:

Hybrids of Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” can be grown either planted in substrates or without it - mounted on blocks. The growing method depends on your personal preferences and growing conditions. Any mixture of coniferous tree bark (Pinus pinea) with peat, charcoal, sphagnum moss, perlite and other materials is suitable as a substrate. When growing orchids on southern and western windows, you can make more moisture-intensive mixtures (use more peat or moss), and on eastern and northern windows you can add polystyrene foam or select a larger fraction of the bark itself.

PEAT in it

, do not rush to remove it, it is specially added to the substrates, on the basis that the orchid will be watered with ordinary tap water, the pH of which is not very favorable for plants, and peat takes care of reducing it [more about substrates...].

It is advisable to choose a pot for planting an orchid according to the size of the root system, so that it fits freely into it, and there is 1-2 cm of free space on the sides. Since the rhizome of the plant is small, the distance between the pseudobulbs is small, it is advisable to plant the orchid in the middle, periodically moving it around its axis, if the new shoots are very strongly drawn to the light, falling on their side. You can place large pebbles at the bottom of the pot, this will ensure good water drainage when watering and give stability to the orchid.

TRANSFER:

Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” does not need frequent replantings, so it is advisable to replant the orchid only when it is really necessary, for example, in cases of severe salinity (and when watering with ordinary tap water, 2-3 years are enough for this) or compaction of the substrate, when it critically high or low pH (the norm is from 5.5 to 6.5) or when the plant grows very much and the pot becomes too small for it (pseudobulbs will begin to hang from the edges of the pot). The best time for replanting is the period when the new orchid shoots reach a size of about 5 cm and begin to grow their own roots [read more about orchid replanting...].

AIR HUMIDITY:

When we mention orchids, the first involuntary association immediately appears in our heads: “An orchid is a tropical plant, and the tropics mean high humidity!” It’s hard to argue with this, since more than half of all plants known today actually come from tropical climates, with only the small difference that in some areas of growth short-term rains occur every day throughout all 12 months of the year, keeping the humidity level high level, and in others there is an alternation of very wet and very dry seasons, i.e. the plant has potentially learned to adapt to conditions of low air humidity and exists perfectly well without it. The study of the biology of orchids does not stand still; today it is known that about 75% of all known species of orchids can rebuild the process of photosynthesis from the C3 / C4 state to CAM, and they do this, focusing on the situation, depending on climate change from wet to dry .

The group of hybrid orchids Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis”, although it contains a very large number of different plants, almost all of their natural relatives came from climatic zones where daytime air humidity does not increase by 50-55%, and it usually only increases at night time. The extremely wet season, when precipitation falls frequently and abundantly, lasts no more than 2 months, daytime air humidity is about 70-80%. Plants adapt perfectly to room humidity, which makes them so attractive for growing on a regular windowsill. Rest assured, plants that are not able to exist in conditions of low air humidity are not available for free sale and are even sold in greenhouses with notes that they are only for greenhouses, orchidariums or terrariums. There are no such things among Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis”!

Air humidity, like temperature, has an indirect effect on orchids; it helps regulate certain processes, leading to their slowdown or acceleration.

The plant is designed in such a way that during its “life activity” it not only absorbs the moisture necessary for growth and development, but also evaporates it from the surface of the leaves and pseudobulbs. The dominant influence on this process is provided by sunlight, under the influence of which the orchid heats up and the rate of “sweating” increases. At temperatures from 18 to 28 °C and regular watering, this process proceeds in a completely normal, natural way - as much water has evaporated, the same amount has been absorbed by the roots, etc. At higher temperatures, the rate of water absorption slows down, and when the thermometer reaches 35-37 °C, it almost stops completely. However, with all this, the active evaporation of moisture from the surface of the leaves not only continues, but picks up speed, gradually leading to their withering, since the work of the roots is stopped and the wasted water is not replenished. At air humidity of 50-55% and above, the process of “sweating” in Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” is significantly slowed down, maintaining the moisture balance at the proper level. It has been noted that under conditions of regular watering at 16-28 °C, the orchid can be kept at normal room humidity without harming its health.

To increase the air humidity directly around the plants (not to be confused with the room as a whole), you can use a humidifier or equip the window sill with trays with wet expanded clay (sand, peat, etc. materials). Under the influence of a heating factor - (direct) sunlight or a battery (in winter), the expanded clay heats up, the water evaporates, increasing the air humidity around the orchids. If there is no heating, it is recommended to place a heater at the bottom of the pan.

REMEMBER

that when caring for orchids in conditions of high air humidity, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the room where the plants are kept, since moist, stale air is an ideal environment for the mass reproduction of various types of fungal and bacterial diseases.

WATERING:

The frequency and abundance of watering orchids of this type directly depends on the intensity of lighting and the general temperature of the room; the higher they are, the more often and more abundantly they need to be watered. The bright sun provokes the growth of new cells, so the need for water increases, and vice versa, a decrease in light intensity slows down metabolism, and the absorption of water by orchid roots is significantly reduced, and in very poor lighting conditions, for example in winter, it can stop completely. In this case, it doesn’t matter whether you water your plant or not, water flows capillarily into the upper layer of the root - velamen, but does not pass further into the plant, the day lasts two or three, with good ventilation in the pot, part of it gradually evaporates, and the other begins to destroy cell walls, causing rot. The orchid will forgive you for watering too frequently in spring and summer; it will be able to process this moisture, but in winter and late autumn it is better not to top up than to overfill.

It is advisable to use soft, filtered water for irrigation or a mixture of ordinary tap and distilled water in a 1:1 ratio. When using tap water, remember that its quality is better in a hot tap, since it contains fewer impurities to prevent scale on the pipes, and accordingly, its pH is not very high. It is advisable to water the orchid using a “hot” shower (water temperature 30-35 °C, maximum 52 °C), this not only cleanses the leaf pores necessary for gas exchange, but also brings the transpiration process closer to ideal, thereby simulating natural tropical rains and has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of the plant [read more about watering orchids...]. Many years of practice have shown that with regular use of a “hot” shower, orchids not only grow green mass well, but also bloom much more often.

Photo:

Dendrobium Candy Stripe

An equally important question that plagues all newcomers to the world of orchids is how often the plant should be watered. The answer to this is very simple - between waterings, the orchid should be able to drink all the available moisture from the substrate, i.e. it should become dry. There is no point in watering a plant if there is already plenty of moisture around its roots. The rate of water absorption from the substrate is influenced by quite a lot of factors - light, temperature, air humidity, the composition of the substrate itself, etc., so it makes little sense to strictly focus on a certain number of days. Today the orchid will drink all the moisture in 7 days, and next time it will be sunny and hot - and it will blow out the same amount of moisture in just 2 days, and then cloudy days will begin, and it will drink very slowly, in small sips, at least 20 days. For the first time, stick a wooden stick into the substrate, take it out from time to time and check whether its tip (middle, etc.) is dry or not, since the top and bottom layers of the substrate dry out faster than the middle, water is not only here is drunk, but also (additionally) evaporates into the environment. If when watering you focus only on the top and bottom layers, you risk flooding the roots located in the middle. REMEMBER

, you water your orchid so that it drinks and makes good use of the received water, and does not choke or dry out from lack, everything should be in moderation and in a timely manner.

FEEDING:

During the period of active growth, this type of orchid is fertilized every third watering at 1/2 of the fertilizer concentration indicated on the package. The roots of Dendrobium Typ "phalaenopsis" are quite sensitive to various types of potassium, phosphorus, etc. salts contained in the fertilizer and can deteriorate very quickly - darken and dry out. In addition to regular root feeding, foliar feeding can also be done, when the outer part of the plant (leaves) is sprayed with a very diluted fertilizer. It is best to feed the orchid by alternating both of these methods. It is advisable to use a specialized fertilizer, marked on the package “For orchids”, since conventional fertilizers for indoor plants are oriented for use in ordinary soil and when used in bark-based substrates, most of the salts settle as dead weight in the substrate itself, creating an unfavorable environment for the root plant. orchid systems environment, leading over time to their massive burning. The best fertilizer is considered to be one containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts, for example, NPK = 3-3-3 or 8-8-8. If you do not have such a fertilizer, then at the beginning of the growing season (the appearance of new shoots), feed the orchid with a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content, and when the sprout reaches 1/2 of its normal growth, with a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content.

SPRAYING:

Thoughtlessly spraying the leaves of your orchid in order to supposedly increase air humidity will not bring anything good to your plant. Before you pick up a spray bottle, remember:

• Spraying the OUTSIDE of the leaves is intended to cool them in the hot summer; it makes no sense to practice this in winter; moreover, it can only provoke the appearance of rot. And in the summer this must be done very carefully, especially if the orchid is in bright sun, which can burn the tissue as the moisture evaporates from the surface of the leaf.
• on the INNER PART of the leaf, through which gas exchange occurs; contact with water can provoke their opening during the day, however, only for a short period of time, which is why it makes sense to spray them only in conditions of good lighting, so that the resulting gases are released immediately into processing, accelerating the process of formation of new cells.

Photo:

Dendrobium Uraiwan Horizon

REST PERIOD:

Orchids of the Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” group are therefore considered one of the easiest to care for among orchids, because they do not require any period of rest to stimulate flowering, but bloom immediately after the formation of a new shoot, when it rounds and turns into a pseudobulb . After reading these lines, some orchid lovers may disagree with this statement, citing their personal experience, they say, sometimes an orchid forms new pseudobulbs, but does not bloom immediately, but sits motionless for some time - resting. It is, of course, useless to argue with this; personal experience is personal to be a measure of “everything”. However, the point is that the absence of a rest period in the life of a given orchid is inherent in it at the genetic level - potentially. What does it mean? This means that if the orchid is kept under OPTIMAL CONDITIONS all year round (that is, in winter, spring, summer, and autumn - all 12 months of the year), it will not have any dormant period, and it will bloom immediately after the end of the formation of a new shoot, and perhaps not one, but two or more peduncles.

The only possible rest period is the WINTER REST PERIOD

caused by a decrease in light intensity outside the window. Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis, like any other living plant, has its own light limit, above which the orchid grows, below which the metabolism slows down and it “falls asleep.” This “dream” has nothing to do with stimulating flowering, and carries with it an anomalous state. Like any anomaly, this one also contains certain negative consequences for the orchid. Have you ever wondered why your orchid’s roots suddenly began to rot en masse? The answer seems obvious - I water too often and too much! This answer is not entirely correct. Not often and a lot, but I water a “sleeping” plant, which, due to its abnormal condition (something even comparable to a painful one), simply cannot drink water. When an orchid “sleeps,” its roots do not drink water. You water an orchid, water flows through the capillaries into the top layer - velamen, but does not pass further inside, the roots do not absorb it and do not lift it up to the leaves. This feature is temporarily unavailable. So water has flowed into the velamen and sits there for a day, two, a week, it can’t get in, it can’t get out either, since the surrounding substrate and ventilation are not so good, it just can’t dry out - the cell walls begin to collapse, the roots rot. And the point here is not that you watered a lot and often; the orchid did not need to be watered at all.

If your orchid is forced to “fall asleep,” then you:

• don't water it,
• don't fertilize
• move it away from the heat source (battery) so that it does not “sweat” and lose precious moisture from the surface of the leaves, it “sleeps” and will not be able to replenish the loss through the roots,
• and (this is ideal) keep at temperatures no higher than 16-20 °C.

An orchid is “sleeping” if:

• the tips of the roots do not grow,
• no new shoots and
• flower stalks do not develop.

The watering regime and maintenance temperatures return to their original positions as soon as you see the first signs of growth.

BLOOM:

Hybrid representatives of this group can bloom at any time of the year, preferring most of all the period from March to September. The duration of flowering is very diverse and greatly depends on a particular variety of orchids. As a rule, the shortest flowering period is no more than 3 months, and the longest flowering period is 7 months.

AFTER FLOWERING:

After flowering, the peduncles of Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” are removed, if necessary, the orchid is replanted and kept completely dry for some time. This is necessary to acclimatize the plant and to prevent rotting of wounds on the roots resulting from transplantation.

Photo:

Germinating babies in a glass of water

REPRODUCTION:

At home, representatives of this group of orchids reproduce, as a rule, only VEGETATIVELY

, for example, the simplest one is by dividing a large, mature bush
into PARTS
, for each new plant it is recommended to leave at least 2-3 pseudobulbs or a new sprout and 1-2 pseudobulbs.
On nodes where there were no flower stalks yet, BABIES can form,
each of which can potentially become a new plant. As soon as it begins to grow roots (3-5 cm) and leaves, it can be removed from the mother plant and planted independently. However, it is best to cut off the old pseudobulb completely, since a single baby will most likely take longer to develop into an independent plant, and the old pseudobulb is no longer needed by the main plant, but can feed the baby well. It is advisable to dry or cauterize the pseudobulb section well before planting. If the baby is growing uncomfortably, then you can simply put an old pseudobulb on top of the substrate and dig in the roots for the baby.

If there are a lot of old pseudobulbs left on your plant, on which there is potentially a place where there were no flower stalks, then you can try to stimulate them to grow babies. The simplest thing is to cut off the old pseudobulb, cauterize the cut site and place it in a glass of water. It is advisable to change the water regularly and dry the pseudobulb every 7-10 days. As a rule, even in winter, babies appear within 10-20 days from the start of the operation. It is not necessary to keep pseudobulbs in water all the time; you can also simply fill them with water once every 5-7 days for a couple of hours; babies grow in any conditions.

In addition, cut pseudobulbs can be placed on damp moss in a greenhouse; a hot, humid climate promotes faster germination of meristems, sometimes babies appear within 3-4 days.

In greenhouse conditions, seed and more complex meristem propagation on nutrient media is also used.

OUTDOOR RESIDENCE:

In the period from the beginning of May to mid-September, it is possible to find this type of orchid outdoors: on the balcony or in the garden, since this is where natural differences between night and day temperatures take place. You need to choose a place protected from rain, strong winds and direct sunlight.

CARE OF A JUST PURCHASED PLANT:

Hybrid orchids of the Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” group can be found on sale almost at any time of the year, they do not have any specific seasonality in flowering, and supplier greenhouses always have something for sale. If you purchased your orchid in the cold season - late autumn, winter or early spring, then be sure to ensure that it is well packaged during transportation, since overcooled plants will most likely shed all their flowers and unopened buds. Hot summer time can also bring a number of surprises. Pay attention to the lighting in flower shops; at best, it is 2-3 meters away from a window or fluorescent lamp. While in such conditions, flowering plants are rebuilt (the composition of the sap changes), and if you immediately place your newly purchased orchid in bright (direct) sun, and not even watered, it will most likely receive severe stress and say goodbye to flowering.

Photo:

Massive yellowing and falling of old leaves is NORMAL!

Under no circumstances should a new orchid be immediately placed in line with all the others, especially if you are new to the world of orchids and are not yet well versed in the pests and diseases that affect plants. Carefully inspect the flowers and leaves, both from the outside and from the inside. Unfortunately, statistics show that while orchids are in stores, up to 50% of plants are affected by pests such as scale insects or mealybugs [read more about orchid pests...]. Even if no pests are visible in the first days after purchase, this does not mean anything, since young individuals of many insects are invisible to the naked eye and become visible after about 2-3 weeks. You should be especially alert if there is sticky discharge on the leaves and flowers.

Blooming orchids do not have to be kept on the windows; during this period they can easily be located at a distance of 1 m from the window on a table, bedside table or shelves. The main thing you need to remember is that orchids DO NOT BLOW FOREVER, and in this case it is especially difficult to focus on the duration of flowering for newly purchased specimens, since you do not know exactly how long they have been blooming. It is possible that at the time of purchase they already have only a few days left to bloom. Immediately after flowering, it is advisable to replant the orchid, since, as a rule, the last time they were replanted was a very, very long time ago, and the substrate in pots is already waste material with a high salt content and is already compacted to such an extent that it does not allow air to pass through to the root well. plant system.

It is imperative to find out what stage of development your plant is in (new growth, etc.) and coordinate further care for them depending on the requirements of a given period.

ORCHID DOESN'T BLOW:

Failure of a HEALTHY plant to bloom may be due to:

• INSUFFICIENT LIGHTING:
  As has been repeatedly stated above, hybrids from the Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” group are all different, and they are made not only on the basis of Dendrobium bigibbum, among natural parents there can also be very light-loving plants, respectively, and hybrids based on them can inherit love to the bright sun.
  If your orchid sits for 18-20 months in the same place and does not bloom, it means that there is not enough light for it here, you need to change the place or, in addition to natural lighting, use artificial light lamps - PHYTO LAMPS
  [read more about lighting orchids...].
• TOO HOT NIGHT CONTENT:
  When growing Dendrobium Typ “phalaenopsis” under the conditions of a regular window sill (i.e. at room humidity 30-50%), for normal photosynthesis it is necessary that the night temperature is always no higher than + 24 °C. For comparison, at 16-18 °C carbon dioxide (from which new cells will ultimately be produced, used to build flower stalks), the plant will potentially record 2.5 times more carbon dioxide than you would keep an orchid at night at 20-21 °C, and almost 5.2 times more if at night it is only + 24 °C. In conditions where it is too hot at night, the supply of carbon dioxide is so small that the plant barely has enough to develop new growths, and flowering is out of the question. As an experiment, try in spring or autumn to place the orchid outside for 15-20 days (on the balcony or in the garden) at night temperatures of about 16-18 °C; most likely it will produce a peduncle either on a new pseudobulb, if it is ripe, or on some something from the old ones. Many orchid lovers, who initially grow their plants at suboptimal temperatures, use this trick year after year to bring the orchid to bloom. Try it, maybe it will work for you, just REMEMBER that a plant kept in a cool place consumes an order of magnitude less moisture than if it were warm, so watering must be appropriate - between waterings the orchid must drink all the available moisture from the substrate and stand completely dry for at least 2-3 days.
• POOR NUTRITION
  or
  INABILITY OF ROOTS TO “ABSORB” NUTRIENTS:
  When watering orchids with ordinary tap water, over time (5-6 months or more), the environment surrounding the roots deteriorates, salts accumulate, acidity increases, microorganisms useful for processing fertilizer die, and much more, on face - deterioration of growth, failure to flower, etc. If you water with tap water, then try to replant your orchid at least once every 2 years, or buy distilled water and soak the pots in it every 3-6 months to at least partially wash out harmful deposits from the substrate.

All of the materials presented above are the property of this site, the full or partial publication of which (according to Article 1270 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation) on other resources without the consent of the copyright holder is prohibited and is punishable by a fine of 10,000 to 5,000,000 rubles (Article 1252 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation).

World of Orchids

Care after flowering...

There are three phases in the life cycle of Dendrobium nobile: flowering, growth and dormancy.

In the first phase, which most often occurs in spring, flowers bloom. Their number reaches 20 pieces. Sooner or later, flowering ends: the flowers wither and fall off. Then the question arises, what to do next?

Leave the orchid in a cool place and wait for new growth to appear. Stop intensively moistening the plant. The new growth must take root of its own. When their size reaches several centimeters, watering can be resumed. The soil should dry out well between waterings. When the new growths are strong enough and begin to inflate, it is recommended to stop watering for a while and lower the temperature.

Keep without watering for a week. This stimulates the formation of flower buds. As soon as the buds appear, start watering again, otherwise it will grow babies rather than flowers.

Completely dried flower stalks are cut off after flowering. Green ones are left or trimmed.

The pseudobulb should not be removed unnecessarily after flowering. Only if it dries completely, when it gives up the accumulated nutrients and water. If the pseudobulb has green buds that have not yet bloomed, the orchid may produce new flowers. By properly caring for Dendrobium nobile, you can achieve re-blooming.

Third stage: the leaves turn yellow, fall off, and preparations are underway for the dormant period. Watering is reduced, and the introduction of additional nutrition is completely eliminated.

Is it possible to reproduce at home?

Dendrobium is propagated in two vegetative ways: by lateral shoots (children) and by dividing the bush. Each method has its own characteristics.

How to raise children?

Stimulating the growth of children begins immediately after flowering by increasing humidity. You can do this in one of the following ways:

1. The plant is sprayed.
2. Place in a shallow container with water.
3. Cover with a plastic bag to create a greenhouse effect.

As a result, branches with roots begin to grow on the shoots. As soon as their length reaches 2-3 cm, the babies are cut off and placed in warm water for 2-5 minutes to moisturize. Then they are planted in a pot with soil.

Important! The baby's growth point should be located above the soil level.