Why do fuchsia leaves curl inward - what to do

Fuchsia (lat. Fuchsia) is unique in that it has the property of self-regulation of water metabolism and assimilation of carbon dioxide. Every gardener who has dealt with it has at least once encountered negative manifestations of fuchsia. With good care, the plant suddenly began to shed its leaves, dry out, and the leaves curled. Some gardeners joke that in this way the flower protests against unsuitable conditions. To save the beauty and restore the healthy appearance of a plant, you need to know its features.

Fuchsia is sick, although care is good

Inexperienced gardeners complain that the plant sheds leaves and buds, dries out, and the leaves tend to curl. The reasons for the poor condition are unclear, because they water it abundantly. Then it is necessary to identify why fuchsia leaves curl inward and what to do to restore it.

Fuchsia is a moisture-loving plant, but it does not like high humidity.

The plant's leaves curl

Useful tips for flower growers

Why do the leaves of tomato seedlings fall off at home?

A few useful tips will help you avoid mistakes when growing fuchsia:

• In summer, the root system overheats. To avoid this, the flower is planted in ceramic pots with thick walls.
• In order not to expose the plant to stress, it should not be moved to another place unless absolutely necessary.
• A lack of light leads to strong elongation of shoots to the detriment of flowering. When such a tendency appears, you should periodically turn on the fluorescent lamp.
• Excess fertilizer, especially nitrogen, leads to an increase in green mass. Therefore, feeding more often than once every two weeks is not recommended.

It is important! In order for the plant to recover faster from the influence of unfavorable factors, it is sprayed with a growth stimulator.

An important nuance when growing fuchsia is creating the right conditions in winter. It is better to place the pot in the basement or pantry, because the flower does not need light at this time. An insulated balcony is also suitable, but direct exposure to the sun is undesirable. The main reason why fuchsia dries during the dormant period is excess light and water. Because of this, spots with a yellow border are formed.

Thus, there are several reasons why fuchsia leaves wither and fall off. This is a violation of the rules of care or illness. If measures are taken in time, the plant will quickly recover.

5 1 vote

Article rating

Causes of leaf falling

The flower reacts to any ailment by dropping leaves. But there are times when leaf loss is considered normal, for example in winter. The reasons for leaf fall are:

• new place;
• too much moisture;
• overdrying;
• flowering period;
• changes in humidity.

Gloxinia leaves curl - what to do

If a plant is moved to a new location, it needs time to adapt to the lighting. It becomes clear why fuchsia withers in a pot. The flower reacts painfully to changing conditions, but quickly returns to normal.

Important! Excessive watering causes root rot. Damaged roots are removed.

Moisture deficiency also leads to leaf loss. Soil drying out occurs due to air temperatures above 20 degrees. The plant does not like overheating of the soil. If the soil is dry, then it needs to be moistened gradually. To alleviate the condition of fuchsia, you can spray the leaves with a spray bottle.

The tips of the leaves dry out due to changes in humidity when the fuchsia has not acclimatized to a new place.

Leaves curl due to bright light

Is fuchsia withering? Are the leaves drying out and falling off? Saving fuchsia from the bay!

One of the most common causes of death of fuchsia in the summer is the bay.

The importance of proper watering for fuchsia cannot be overestimated. This is the basis of a healthy and strong plant.

Signs of the Bay

• The shoots droop
• The leaves wither, then become covered with brown spots, dry out and fall off.
• Flowers and buds crumble

In hot weather, fuchsia leaves become limp and drooping

What's going on? Fuchsia has a water regulation system that allows the plant to close its stomata and thus prevent water loss. But the stomata must be open to allow carbon dioxide to pass through for photosynthesis. Therefore, the plant has to balance between water loss and carbon dioxide assimilation.

The stomata open early in the morning. Around noon they begin to close and close completely just before sunset. On very hot days, at temperatures of 25°C and above, the stomata are open for a very short time in the early morning and closed for the rest of the day. The same thing happens if the plant does not have enough water: the stomata are open for a very short time in order to conserve water. In such conditions, respiration and photosynthesis stop and the leaves no longer cool through the process of evaporation - as a result, the plant withers.

Watering fuchsia abundantly in this state is a guaranteed death of the plant.

Watering when the plant's stomata are closed can lead to death, because the closed stomata cannot ensure the movement of water to the leaves

The best thing to do for a drooping plant in the sultry heat is to spray the leaves.

Spraying cools the leaves and helps keep the stomata open longer. You should also do this on hot days to prevent the leaves from wilting. Proper misting during hot weather also helps keep the stomata open longer and thus support plant growth. Fuchsia should be sprayed in the shade!

Proper watering

So, it is important to water in the early morning. Watering in the afternoon can do more harm than good. At this time, the stomata are closed, and the roots will remain in water all night and may rot.

How to save fuchsia after flooding?

If you notice these signs of flooding on your fuchsia, save it immediately!

1. Leave the plant in the shade.
2. Remove excess water from the soil as quickly as possible. This can be done by placing the pot on a pack of napkins, newspaper, or dry sand.
3. Also, an emergency transplant into new, light and airy soil can solve this problem.
4. Do not water the plant, just spray it with a spray bottle. Until the roots recover from the flood, they cannot fully absorb water from the soil.
5. It makes sense to cut the cutting and put it to root. If the plant cannot be saved, the cutting will give life to a new fuchsia.

So, you can save fuchsia from flooding if you eliminate the cause as quickly as possible. And once faced with this situation, you will no longer allow fuchsia to overwater, especially in the heat.

How to identify a problem by external signs

Why do violet leaves curl inward?

In the case of flooding or under the influence of sunlight, fuchsia exhibits similar external manifestations. The leaves become wilted and drooping. Bay is excluded if the flower comes to life in a cool place.

If fuchsia begins to fade, drops leaves and buds, then, apparently, it was moved to a new place and it needs time to adapt.

If a powdery coating is observed on the reverse side of the leaves, and the buds begin to fall off, then the plant has been attacked by pests. Lack of flowering and slow growth are associated with a low content of nutrients in the soil.

Brown spots on the leaves are due to sunburn, wrinkling of the leaves is due to watering with cold water.

During the flowering period, it is important to fertilize the soil

Reaction to fertilizer overdose

Like all plants, fuchsia tends to absorb more nutrients than it needs to sustain life and maintain good health. A clear confirmation of this fact is the cracking of fruits of trees and garden crops as a result of excess rain.

Excess fertilizer can lead to increased growth of vegetative mass with insufficient root development. The consequence will be a shortage of water and nutrition for existing organs. As a result, the number of flowers will sharply decrease. The leaves will begin to wither and turn yellow. First the edges turn brown, and then the entire leaf. Leaves fall and growth slows. Taking advantage of the weakening of the body's defenses, diseases and sucking insects attack.

Another effect is the accumulation of water-soluble salts in the soil, which leads to a change in soil pH. Moving away from neutral pH in any direction makes it difficult for the plant to extract nutrition from the soil (including water). Changing the situation destroys beneficial microorganisms in the soil.

Additional Information. The advantage of natural organic fertilizers is that they release nutrients more slowly, more in line with the growth rate of the plant. Inorganic substances are supplied immediately in quantities as much saline solution as the vascular system can transport. In fact, there are even more negative aspects of an overdose of fertilizing that have been studied.

Diseases and pests

Fuchsia is resistant to disease, but high humidity leads to the appearance of small dewdrops on the leaves. The plant can be treated with a solution containing Fundazol in a ratio of 11:1.

Why do hydrangea leaves curl and curl up?

Dangerous pests include aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies. Aphids can be seen from above on young stems and buds. Aphids suck the juice from the plant, the leaves curl and become dry. The drug Decis fights well against aphids.

Important! Aphids are firmly attached to the stems due to the secreted sugary substances. Infected stems must be separated from healthy ones.

Features of the flower

Plants of the Begoniaceae genus can be divided into 2 large types:

1. decorative deciduous;
2. decorative flowering.

The first subspecies has large leaves of various shapes. Their inflorescences are small and unattractive. The appearance of deciduous begonias resembles tropical plants, all kinds of ficus

Flowering varieties, on the contrary, attract attention with multicolored inflorescences. Some varieties bloom for a whole year

You will learn about the types of this wonderful plant in a separate article.

Reference! Begonias can grow on city streets, garden plots, in flowerpots on terraces, open balconies, in houses and apartments. Flowers of each subspecies require special growing conditions. Violation of these regimes leads to negative consequences. Flowers begin to get sick, fade, and wither, thereby losing their decorative properties.

Insufficient watering

Poor watering negatively affects the well-being of fuchsia; the leaves become dry. Especially at high air temperatures. Looking at the top layer of soil, which dries into dust, it is clear why fuchsia withers. The soil should be moistened with small portions of water.

Nutrient deficiencies

Fuchsia needs feeding all year round, except winter. A deficiency in nutritional ingredients affects the health of the plant, the leaves turn yellow, and the plant stops blooming. Fuchsia leaves are falling, what should I do? - feed. Fertilizers are added once a week, starting in March. When the fuchsia fades, take a short break, then feed again.

It is important to transplant cuttings into soil rich in beneficial microelements.

Why do fuchsia buds fall off before they have time to open?

Indoor plants are practically not exposed to external factors, such as harmful insects, scorching sun rays, and low temperatures. Therefore, it can be especially disappointing when, just before flowering begins, the formed buds simply fall off instead of blooming. Why do fuchsia flowers fall off? Obviously, some care rule was violated, as a result of which the plant does not have enough strength to bloom. The buds and leaves do not have time to gain strength, which is why the connecting area weakens and the leaves fall off.

If the buds are already starting to fall off, you should not try to instantly save the situation; this is unlikely to be possible.

Buds do not open: causes, consequences, how to fix the problem

If fuchsia drops its buds, what to do is the main question. The root cause needs to be determined. There are several main reasons:

• lack or excessive amount of light;
• improper supply of fertilizers;
• broken watering regime;
• topping;
• diseases.

In order to cross diseases and pests off the list, you should carefully examine the stems and leaves of the fuchsia. It is unlikely that these factors could affect a houseplant, because in this case there will not be the necessary environment for their development, but in natural conditions this is quite likely. If there are damaged areas of bark or sitting insects on the stems, the best solution is to remove the infected branches, burn them and completely treat the tree to prevent further insects.

Many people have a question: why is pinching necessary? It is necessary for the plant to bloom and can greatly improve the flower harvest, making the plant itself much more beautiful and lush. It involves the removal of old and unsuitable branches for development. By cutting them off, you will soon get young shoots. The formation of young shoots additionally triggers regeneration and the bush is filled with fresh strength, which will prevent young buds from falling off.

Note ! Excessive removal of young shoots can also have a detrimental effect on whether the buds will bloom or the flower will decide to shed them. The inflorescences will take quite a long time to form and if the season is already coming to an end, this may lead to the buds being shed prematurely, before the moment of their opening.

Having determined the exact reason why fuchsia buds fall off before they open, you can begin to eradicate the problem. If the initial reason for the dropping of buds is excessive watering or dry soil, you will need to establish the optimal watering regime necessary for the bush. Watering should be done 1-2 times a week, depending on the amount of water, and it is necessary to check how wet the soil is. Due to lack of moisture, the leaves begin to dry out and then may fall.

Fuchsia's buds are falling off

To compensate for the lack of light, move the pot to a windowsill or other place where there is enough natural light. If you realize that the plant is dark (this can easily happen in winter), you can purchase a special lamp to illuminate and enhance plant growth. Do not overdo it, as direct sunlight can scorch the tender leaves.

Fuchsia, or “ballerina”, is a rather whimsical plant; it requires careful care and feeding with the help of special fertilizers and nutrients. First of all, preventive humus is required, which will saturate the soil with the necessary nutrients and minerals. Additionally, you can treat the soil and stems against various diseases and pests. It is recommended to sprinkle the root system with ash.

Note ! Fertilizing should be started actively (once a week) from the end of spring, so that the plant slowly “accelerates” and receives the necessary energy for flowering.

Plant requirements for lighting levels

Fuchsia does well in diffuse sunlight at the beginning and end of the day, but suffers from the heat of the day. For lush flowering at home, create a balance between intense daylight and shade from the scorching rays of the sun. Varieties with bright flowers require more light; they happily stand in the open sun. Fuchsias with inflorescences of delicate shades love to be in lace shade.

To place fuchsia in an apartment, choose windows on any side except the south. Otherwise, the fuchsia leaves will fall off.

Due to high humidity, the flower looks sickly

In hot weather, fuchsia leaves become limp and drooping

If this repeats for several days in a row, and the flower is restored overnight, then the cause of this phenomenon is a lack of moisture, since in the heat evaporation processes outstrip the ability of the plant to absorb water. In this case, sprinkling will be your salvation. The more often the better. The only condition is to ensure that the leaves do not burn as a result. This is possible if, after spraying with water, the wet foliage comes into direct sunlight.

Light-colored fuchsia is demanding on living conditions

But fungi, of which there are hundreds of varieties, can also cause similar symptoms. They survive both in Arctic conditions and in the hottest times in the desert. The ideal breeding conditions for them are a temperature of 25-30 ℃ above zero with high humidity. Fungal spores persist in soil debris for many years. Seeds can also be a source of infection. As a result of seed infection, the plant becomes sick even at low temperatures. The disease spreads upward from the roots, causing the fuchsia to wither.

Important! The disease can be triggered by injuries during planting and replanting, or from insect bites.

Rules of care during the flowering period

After wintering, the plant needs help for healthy flowering. Dried leaves are trimmed and dead flowers are removed. Branches that have grown inside are taken out and removed.

During the flowering period, growth retardation and absence of flowers are often observed. This occurs due to poor soil and insufficient nutrients. The plant requires potassium and phosphorus, so it needs to be fed.

Fuchsia has an actively developing root system. The pot should be spacious.

Nutrient deficiencies

Fuchsia is sensitive to soil fertility. The effect of a lack of essential microelements affects the growth rate of plants.

Lack of iron and other microelements

The consequences of a lack of microelements are manifested:

• Potassium. Weakened immunity, underdeveloped roots, decreased absorption of water and nutrients. Small holes on senescent leaves.
• Phosphorus. Weak growth, lack of flowering. Redness of leaves.
• Nitrogen. Acceleration of the beginning of flowering. The leaves are pale in color, turn yellow and fall off.
• Iron, manganese. Discoloration of leaves, increasing in proportion to the distance from the vessels.
• Calcium. Tendency to curl leaves with a spoon.

Note! Fertilizer may be less effective in dry and compacted soil.

Plant watering requirements

Excessive watering disrupts gas exchange in the soil and provokes acidification. A mold crust forms on the surface. The root system is deficient in oxygen, the roots gradually rot, and small roots quickly die off.

Competent adherence to watering rules will help to avoid fuchsia diseases. In the spring-autumn season, fuchsia needs good watering if the top layer of soil dries out. In winter, water in the morning, moderately.

In the autumn (October-November), watering is reduced until completely canceled. In the cold season, 1-2 waterings per month are enough for fuchsia.

When it's summer outside, the flower is watered in the evening. Due to morning watering, the roots steam in the damp soil in the heat and deteriorate.

Important! The soil should be kept slightly moist and the leaves should be misted to cool.

Flower growers equip the pot with a drainage system to prevent the soil from acidifying.

For irrigation use settled, soft water. Oxalic acid is used to soften.

Fuchsia flower: how to care at home

Caring for fuchsia involves creating suitable conditions for its growth and development:

• maintaining optimal temperature conditions;
• regular watering;
• application of fertilizers.

Young cuttings are placed in small pots, the volume of which increases as they grow. They are not fed immediately after planting, because fresh soil is saturated with the necessary elements.

Fuchsia

Particular attention is paid to the formation of the bush. Some varieties of fuchsia grow up to three meters in height. To prevent active stretching, after wintering, dried leaves and flowers are cut off, and the stems are shortened by a third. Also remove shoots that grow incorrectly - at an angle or inside the plant. In spring, the tips of the branches are pinched.

At the same time, the fuchsia is replanted if the roots grow through the drainage holes. Pots that are too spacious are not used. In such containers, the green mass increases to the detriment of flowering. Sand and humus are added to the soil mixture to make it looser.

It is important! Pots must have drainage. For active flowering, add horn or bone meal (1 tbsp per 1 liter of soil).

Fuchsia is considered a finicky flower, but caring for it is not that difficult. It is necessary to maintain a comfortable temperature, sufficient lighting, watering and fertilizing. The first thing to do when fuchsia withers or drops its leaves is to reconsider its care measures.

Temperature and watering requirements

The optimal temperature during the period of active growing season and flowering is +18…+25°C. In hot weather (above +30°C), leaves fall off. Plants may dry out. Direct sunlight also has an adverse effect. It is better to cover the windows with curtains.

In autumn, the temperature is lowered to +10...+12°C, because the plant enters a resting phase. It should gain strength to bloom in the new season. If it gets hotter, the leaves will become smaller and the flower will get sick.

Watering home fuchsia

Fuchsia always needs sufficient watering, except in winter. The earth is moistened as soon as the top layer of soil dries - approximately every 3-4 days. It is necessary to maintain a balance - the plant does not tolerate drought, but also does not like excess water. If liquid accumulates in the bottom tray of the pot, drain it immediately. In winter, the frequency of watering is reduced to 2-3 times a month. The optimal indoor air humidity is 50-60%.

When flooding occurs, the following signs appear:

• limp stems, leaves and inflorescences;
• brown spots on shoots.

How to properly revive fuchsia:

• move to the shade;
• remove excess water by placing a paper towel or a container of sand under the pot;
• transplant into new soil - light, saturated with oxygen.

  
  Fuchsia transplant

In advanced cases, when the flower cannot be saved, only cuttings can help.

The plant responds well to spraying of green mass during the growing season. The procedure is carried out early in the morning or late in the evening, when there is no direct sun.

It is important! Water only with clean, settled water. Hard tap liquid causes yellow leaves to form.

Lighting requirements

For normal growth of fuchsia, a sufficient amount of diffused light is needed. The pot should not be placed directly in the sun. She does not like heat - the leaves may turn yellow. The flower is placed in the eastern or western part of the house. If the windows face south, it is shaded, and if it faces north, it is illuminated with fluorescent lamps.

It is important! Fuchsia cannot be moved while it is flowering - it will drop its buds.

Rules for fertilizing and feeding fuchsia

The plant is regularly fed. The exception is winter time. Gardening stores sell fertilizers for fuchsias and flowering plants.

The nutritional mixture is used once every two weeks. It is diluted in water according to the instructions and used instead of regular watering. Before flowering begins, you can spray the leaves with this solution. After wilting, no fertilizing is applied. Then the process is resumed.

Ambient temperature requirements

Fuchsias respond painfully to heat. In summer weather, the leaves become limp and flabby. For healthy flowering you need a temperature in the range from +18 °C to +25 °C. It is difficult to create optimal conditions in an apartment in the summer. Therefore, the plant is placed on a loggia, terrace, in the shade, where the burning rays of the sun will not reach it and the leaves will not begin to curl.

The plant will respond with gratitude for good care.

Sometimes fuchsia is planted in open soil outside. But if the air heats up to 30 °C, the plant will instantly shed its leaves and begin to ache and dry out.

A ceramic or porcelain pot will help protect the roots from overheating. A plastic container for flowers heats up, while a ceramic one keeps it cool.

Important ! In the summer heat, the fuchsia root system will be perfectly preserved in a spacious ceramic pot. It remains cool in the heat and protects the plant roots from excessive overheating.

Excess of microelements in feeding

Orchids are very sensitive plants and react negatively not only to a lack of nutrition, but also to an excess of it. It is especially dangerous to overfeed a plant at the beginning of its development. In most cases, flower growers purchase flowering orchids from retailers.

For more lush and vibrant flowering, unscrupulous sellers overfeed the plants with fertilizers and all kinds of stimulants. After 2-3 years, such orchids are completely depleted and die.

Therefore, experienced orchidists recommend not feeding newly purchased orchids throughout the quarantine and even longer. Sometimes it is worth replanting the orhu in a new container with a new substrate.

A common problem when feeding is an excess of calcium, which causes rapid salinization of the soil, which makes it difficult or completely impossible for the plant to absorb iron.

The entire system of plant absorption of minerals is disrupted. The leaves turn pale, turn yellow at the tips, and curl. The edge of the sheet plates takes on a “ragged” appearance. It especially hits young leaves.

The fastest solution would be an emergency transplant with the roots soaked in distilled and running water.

Recommendation! During the recovery period, you should completely exclude nutrition with mineral complexes containing calcium.

How to save fuchsia after flooding?

Waterlogged soil causes flower weakness. The leaves look sick, they are limp and drooping, and may curl. Without rescue measures, the condition of the flower worsens, even to the point of death.

If you detect signs of flooding at the initial stage, the plant can be revived.

When a flower feels good, she delights with beauty

Experienced gardeners advise beginners to use a paper towel, root rot remedy, and phytosporin. The procedure is as follows:

1. treat the soil with an anti-rot agent;
2. remove the fuchsia from the pot, wrap the roots together with a lump of earth with a paper towel in several layers;
3. after an hour, wrap again;
4. leave the plant in the winding for 3-4 weeks;
5. water when the earthen ball becomes dry;
6. For watering, take a solution of phytosporin.

After all the steps, when new leaves appear, return the plant to the pot.

Important! Fuchsias most often disappear due to improper watering.

Thus, it is important to comply with all fuchsia care requirements. During flowering, it is forbidden to change the usual conditions - rearrange, rotate, block daylight or, conversely, expose the flower to the sun. The plant is capricious, sensitive to any changes in the external environment, it can drop its buds or the leaves begin to curl.

Hot chocolate capsules Nescafe Dolce Gusto Chococino, 8 servings

334 ₽ More details

Nesquik Opti-Start instant cocoa drink, 250 g (package)

125 ₽ More details

Wood splitters

Fuchsia dries

Dv! I didn’t start a new topic because I have similar problems with fuchsia. So it's like that

: I bought a mature fuchsia a month ago (it has a lignified trunk). It looked like a nice, strong mini-tree with a dense crown. I bought it in a home-grown greenhouse, not knowing the variety or what color it would bloom (the owners don’t bother with this). Grows in a liter-sized pot, garden soil. I brought her home and put her in quarantine. I didn’t change the soil/pot, because I learn from my mistakes, I have bitter experience. And lately I’ve been adhering to the principle - since the plant was purchased in good condition, it means that both the pot and the soil that I got along with the flower from the previous owner like it and are suitable for this plant, so I don’t touch it. A few days later she felt a “climate change” and decided to shed a few leaves, and then completely lost her turgor. Out of fear, I watered it generously, sprayed it into the bag. I made holes in the bag with a toothpick. As a result, it feels good under the bag, all the leaves that remained after the primary leaf fall were preserved and the turgor was restored. Periodically I remove the package, but, alas, the turgor is lost again. and everything is all over again. I understand intellectually that she needs time to adapt - the greenhouse/apartment. But a month has already passed of taking off/putting on the bag, when will she calm down and get used to my living conditions? Please advise how to accustom fuchsia to life without a bag.

Pysy: I bought an angel (pelargonium) there. Same problem. I don’t know whether to ask here or in the topic about Pelargoniums? I just know that Greenata is an ace in both fuchsias and pelargoniums.

Grinata, thanks for the advice! There is a glass balcony, but it’s as cold as outside

. I’ll just move it to the coolest window!

I’ll enlarge the holes - really, I didn’t realize it myself

.

Yesterday I sprayed it with epin and again under the bag. The turgor is good, it does not shed leaves.

Should I replant it from hard rock soil and a large pot, or should I just leave it out of harm’s way?

Could you write where you live? It’s hard to answer without knowing your climate!

This is the second year that summer has not been suitable for fuchsias, at least in Moscow, and this is not nonsense, but a fact. Although this year is much better than the previous one. The optimal temperature for fuchsias in summer is about +20, higher even in the sun, and with good watering, root rot is almost inevitable. Without the sun at high temperatures with good watering - a struggle for survival of the fittest.

The leaves hang like a rag more often from the heat and dry air, and not from the dry substrate; you should not immediately grab the watering can. Check the moisture content of the substrate with your finger, two centimeters deep into the pot. The top layer of soil in the pot should dry out by 2 cm between waterings, and not be constantly wet, even slightly! My fuchsia pots often dry out so much that the fuchsia pot weighs nothing at all (the substrate is based on high-moor peat), this is of course not good, you can destroy the root hairs, but the fuchsia does not hang leaves if the temperature is within the normal range. But in the heat, they immediately hang like rags, even though there is enough moisture in the pot. I just try to lower the temperature and spray fuchsia more often.

Epin is not a panacea for the death of a plant, but only a help to cope with stress more easily. And if the roots have already begun to rot, no amount of epin (or zircon) will help. Epin is used before. stress. For example, the day before transplanting plants or before expected frost, heat, darkness, etc., and not after what happened.

Why did you water it with zircon? What was the bad root system? Or did you try to stimulate flowering or fruiting? What size were the cuttings? The purpose of stimulating cuttings with Zircon? What was the dosage of zircon? An overdose of zircon should not be allowed.

For reference only: Zircon and Epin cannot be used at the same time. At least 10 days must pass after using one of the drugs. And if the first drug was Epin, then it is better to wait 14 days, since this is exactly how many days are needed for Epin to disintegrate in the plant. There is no point in treating plants more often; you will only make things worse. These drugs have slightly different functions (one before stress, one after stress). Moreover, after stress, the plant must be allowed to revive on its own! And don’t finish it off right away with stimulants.

I suspect that when replanting you watered it, if not with zircon, then with just water. But there is no need to do this. After transplanting, do not water for 10 days. But everything is done without fanaticism, that is, check the condition of the substrate, and if it is very dry, you can very carefully water it earlier, again without fanaticism! It is better to spray more often rather than water. First, you need to let the cuttings get used to the new conditions, you can spray them with Epin, check the substrate, and if the top layer is wet, don’t water it! They will take root better in a slightly dried substrate! And then, depending on the age and growth of the cutting, stimulate it by spraying or watering. But with a good root system, why water? If the cutting is too early to bloom and has not gained green mass, why stimulate flowering? You weaken the plant with this.

I read your post about the dogma about watering, and the myth about white fluffy roots (root hairs).

In the future, when the plant is hanging its leaves, and the substrate in the pot feels wet to the touch, remove the plant and check the roots. If there are white or gray root shoots, you can place the plant back in the pot with peace of mind. If there are no root hairs, sound the alarm! Here you can comb the earthen substrate with a fork in order to find root hairs, if there are none deeper, then find a slightly thicker root and cut it off or scrape off the root covering tissue with your fingernail, if the inside of the root is white, then almost everything is with the roots the plant is in order and almost healthy, you just need to balance the watering. If the color under the covering tissue of the root is brown, then the root has rotted. Here you will have to fight for the plant. Rotten roots must be cut back to healthy tissue, if possible, shake off the entire substrate and plant the plant in high clean peat (without impurities or any additives), trim the plant according to the root system.

We kindly ask everyone who writes by e-mail, do not consider it difficult to sign EVERY letter with your NAME AND NICK.

Common mistakes when growing fuchsia

Unsuitable growing conditions destroy fuchsia:

• Bad soil. Be sure to add a drainage layer to the pot. The soil is usually made up of peat, humus and compost soil - 1 part of each component. Coarse sand is also added - 2 parts. You can buy ready-made soil. The main thing is that it is loose enough.
• Incorrect watering. It is necessary to water the fuchsia regularly and sufficiently. You should check the top layer of soil and water only when it dries out. Make sure that the water does not stagnate.
• Unsuitable temperature. The plant loves cool rooms - up to 20 degrees. Feels good in the fresh air, in the yard or on the balcony. It is also recommended to plant plants in light pots so that the roots are less exposed to the sun. For the same reason, ceramic containers are preferable. Winter is a dormant period for this plant. At this time, it needs to be provided with a temperature no higher than 10 degrees, watered very moderately and not fed. In winter, it is important not to overcool the roots. If the plant overwinters on a window, the pot is placed on polystyrene foam or a board.
• By the way, fertilizing fuchsias is not an easy task. It is important not to overfeed and not to leave on a starvation diet. Feed only during the period of active growth - once a month. Various mineral and organic fertilizers are suitable. “Kemira”, “Effecton”, “Pokon for geraniums” are especially recommended.
• Heat and direct rays of the sun are detrimental to fuchsia. It is better to place it in a place where there is bright, but not direct sunlight. Lighting can also be artificial. Fluorescent light sources are ideal.
• To support the plant, you can use the drug "Epin". It is useful if the plant has suffered stress (drought, temperature changes, overwatering, etc.). The drug stimulates the protective functions of the plant.

If fuchsia has dropped its leaves

Many people think that growing fuchsia is not at all difficult, since the plant is quite easy to care for. But this seems only at first glance, since as practice shows, fuchsia is quite capricious.

Thus, fuchsia often loses leaves and buds if it is disturbed, rearranged or rotated during flowering.

In winter, in bright light, it can also shed its leaves. To prevent this from happening, it is shaded and the buds that appear are removed, i.e. do not allow the plant to bloom.

Fuchsia does not like high temperatures, as a result of which it can shed its leaves and form long thin shoots.

Leaves may fall if there is too little humidity, poor watering and high temperatures.

It is extremely dangerous for fuchsia if the soil in the pot warms up. This can even lead to the death of the plant, because... it has very tender roots. You can correct the situation by placing the pot in a flowerpot to create an air gap.

Pests that sometimes appear on fuchsia (whiteflies and mites) can also cause leaf fall. In this case, the leaves on both sides and the ground are treated with fitoverm, actellik or actara according to the instructions included with these preparations.

In order for fuchsia to grow and develop well, it is necessary to remember what conditions are most favorable for it. Wintering is very important for fuchsia. The plant should overwinter in a cool room at a temperature of 6-12 degrees.

Considering that fuchsia loves an abundance of bright but diffused light, it is better to place it on windows facing east or west. On a south-facing window, fuchsia should be protected from direct sunlight. When it is located in a northern window, and even shaded by trees, the fuchsia stems stretch out, it blooms sparingly, the leaves and flowers become smaller.

Watering is probably the most important thing for fuchsias. Water it regularly with settled water at room temperature.

In this case, the water should not stagnate in the pan - it must be drained. Flower growers manage to water the plants so that water does not seep into the pan (in this case there will be no overflow and rotting of the roots).

From March to September, fuchsia is watered after the top layer of soil has slightly dried out. From October, the frequency of watering is reduced, and by the end of November it almost stops. This promotes more abundant flowering in the future and does not allow the shoots to stretch.

Fuchsia is very responsive to spraying. From May to August, it is advisable to spray the plant twice a day in the morning and evening, and in the fall two to three times a week.

This capricious beauty does not need feeding from October to March. But in other months, fuchsia is fed every two to three weeks with complex fertilizer.

Fuchsia usually blooms from May to November. During this entire period, faded flowers are removed, which promotes the formation of new buds.

Considering that flower buds form only on young shoots, old bare stems are cut off, and young stems are pinched after the second or third internodes. This also contributes to better tillering. If the density is not enough, the shoots that have grown back after the first pinching are shortened again (after the second pair of leaves).

The last pinching is done no later than the end of April. If this procedure is carried out later, flowering will be pushed closer to autumn, since fuchsia usually takes about two months to form buds and bloom.

By observing all of the above conditions, you can not only protect fuchsia from leaf fall, but also form an original tree. To do this, vertically growing shoots are attached to a support and all side shoots are cut off until the trunk reaches the desired height. After this, the top is cut off and three to five side shoots are allowed to develop, which will form the crown of the tree.

kumushka.com

This is interesting: Caring for begonia in a pot at home for beginners: this is important to know