Alocasia: how to grow a stylish green barometer at home

Alocasia (in Latin - Alocasia) is a tropical plant native to South America, common in Eastern Australia, and appeared in Russia during the reign of Catherine II. The flower belongs to the aroid family and grows in open spaces, but can also be found in rocky areas.

Alocasia is called weatherweed and arum, and in alternative medicine - trefoil. This name is due to the fact that an adult plant rarely has more leaves. When the fourth one appears, the oldest leaf begins to dry out, and after a while it dies.

What does alocasia look like?

• The flower grows from 40 to 200 cm, has a strong and long stem directed vertically upward, sometimes creeping.
• The roots of alocasia are short and very thick, in the form of tubers.
• In the photo you can see that the plant has both one and three rounded leaves with a length of 20 to 90 cm. The foliage is colored emerald green, it may have reddish spots and yellowish-white veins.
• Alocasia fruits have the shape of an ellipse or an inverse cone; they can be split longitudinally. In the center of the fruit there are seeds (from 1 to 5 pieces).

The plant is distinguished by its beauty, which brings an element of exoticism to any room it occupies.

The most famous types and varieties of alocasia

Alocasia is represented by different species, each of which is beautiful in its own way and will take its rightful place among other plants. The most popular are:

1. Alocasia amazonica is an Amazonian variety that does not produce fruit when grown at home:

• stems from 10 to 20 cm tall;
• petioles about half a meter;
• the leaves are elongated, 20 cm wide, dark green with white stripes.

Amazonian alocasia

1. Alocasia cuprea is a copper-red species of plant, classified as not too large, decorative:

• the foliage is directed vertically upward, has the shape of an oval heart, about 20 cm wide and 30 cm long, its color is unusual: copper-green with a metallic sheen on top and rich purple below;
• the stem is not high, up to 10 cm;
• The flower stalks also have a purple tint, they are collected in 3 pieces.

Alocasia Cuprea

1. Alocasia cucullata – hooded alocasia:

• it reaches a height of a meter, its stem has a diameter of 5 cm;
• petioles grow up to 80 cm;
• the foliage is quite dense and wide (about 80 cm), slightly pointed, has shades from dark to bright green;
• varieties with rich foliage bloom, and the inflorescence is quite high up to 30 cm.

Alocasia capulata

1. Alocasia odora – odorous:

• the rhizome is very short and strong, tuberous;
• shoots stretch up to 1 meter in height;
• the foliage is very fleshy, 70 cm wide and about a meter long (young leaves look like a shield, and old ones look like arrows);
• the inflorescences of this species are cobs that have a specific aroma;
• The juice secreted by this type of alocasia is poisonous; you only need to work with the plant while wearing gloves.

Scented alocasia

1. Black Velvet is a small type of alocasia (its stem reaches 25 cm):

• the foliage of the plant is velvety, oval-shaped, heart-shaped with a dark burgundy top and a pattern of veins;
• The peduncle grows up to 10 cm, its cover has a soft pink tint;
• does not produce inflorescences at home.

Alocasia Black Corduroy

1. Alocasia Lowii - Low's alocasia, has underground root shoots and a short trunk:

• oval or arrow-shaped foliage is green with snow-white veins, they are purple on the inside;
• The petioles of the foliage are quite long.

Alocasia Lowe

Copper and velvet

In plant growing, 5 types of indoor flowers are most often used:

• Large-rooted (A. macrorhiza) - a two-meter beauty with rounded shield-shaped leaves, producing scarlet fruits;
• Amazonian, or Alocasia Sanderia “Polly” (A. amazonica, A. sanderiana “Polly”) is a medium-sized indoor plant, decorated with elongated arrow-shaped dark malachite leaves with protruding white veins and jagged edges, blooming in the room, but not producing fruit;
• Copper-red (A. cuprea) is the most poisonous and exotic species in terms of color: its leaves are crimson below and green with a copper tint above;
• Odoriferous (A. odora) is a compact plant on which small fragrant flowers bloom;
• The species "Black Velvet" (A. "Black Velvet"), which has black-purple velvety foliage with white raised veins.

Alocasia Sandera

The Filipino guest is quite often found on the windowsills of our country. Sandera has some characteristic features:

• very short stems, substantial and thick;
• petioles somewhat elongated;
• the foliage is large, up to 40 cm long, about 15 cm wide;
• the foliage has an arrow shape and wavy edges;
• leaves have color variations from soft olive to deep green, with obligatory veins of light shades;
• Sandera's flowers are rather inconspicuous; after they disappear, bright orange fruits appear.

Sandera is especially active in the warm season, but in winter she has time to rest. During this period, you should not actively water the plant; it is better to spray it periodically. When placing a flower, you should take into account its love for wide space and provide it with maximum freedom.

Alocasia Sandera

This medicinal species is also called large-rhizome. In the wild, it can grow up to 3 meters in height; at home, the flower’s reach is somewhat weaker. The homeland of this alocasia is Sri Lanka; local residents use the leaves of the plant as umbrellas, they are so large.

Plant characteristics:

• stems more than 2 meters long;
• petioles have a height of 1 meter;
• the foliage is heart-shaped, with brightly defined lobes diverging in the middle of its plate;
• The peduncle is large, grows up to 30 cm;
• the berries are quite large, red, more than a centimeter in diameter;
• The juice of the plant is poisonous, but it is actively used in alternative medicine.

General information

Alocosia has large leaves with basal veins located on well-developed thick petioles.
The leaves of this flower seem to be specially created to attract attention. They are painted in a dark olive color, on which very light veins stand out brightly

It is thanks to this feature that the plant began to be used for decorative purposes.

In addition to color, the leaves amaze with their outlandish shape and pointed edges. Because of such an unusual appearance, people called alocasia “elephant ear”, as it is often called among the people. This decorative flower has hydathodes, these are narrow stomata with the help of which plants secrete excess moisture in the form of drops. This skill is especially convenient when overwatering.

Alocasia inflorescences have the shape of a racemose cob and consist of white or pale pink flowers. Elephant ear flowering at home is quite a rare occurrence; many owners of this beauty have never seen the flowers of their pet. Because of this feature, alocasia is classified as an ornamental deciduous plant.

The root system of elephant ear is shaped like tubers. They are quite light, and also dense and elastic to the touch. Over time, daughter tuber roots form on them, with the help of which several young plants can be obtained.

Varieties of Alocasia

Alocasia is a genus of evergreen plants. To date, more than fifty species that are representatives of this genus are known. Breeders have also developed many different hybrid forms of this flower; they differ from each other in the height and shape of the leaves. Some varieties are large in size, so not all alocasia can be cultivated at home.

However, regardless of whether they belong to a particular species, all plants of this type are cared for almost equally. Among amateur gardeners, the most popular are Alocasia large-rhizome (Mountain), Alocasia Polly, Alocasia Sandera, Alocasia large-root and Alocasia Amazonian.

How often does alocasia bloom?

To see alocasia bloom, you need to create special conditions for it with high tropical humidity. In modern apartments this is not an easy task. Some plants of this species are occasionally capable of throwing out the inflorescence, while others will never bloom.

In general, alocasia that has reached the age of 7 years is capable of blooming. Most often, inflorescences appear in pairs with a new leaf, replacing the old one that falls off. The flower is covered with a kind of blanket that wraps it in a cocoon; after the seeds ripen, it gradually disappears.

The weatherflower flower has a rather strong aroma. Its flowering period falls in the summer, when the plant receives sufficient light and moisture. Moreover, it is not constant watering, but a slight drought that can stimulate alocasia to bloom.

Interesting fact: the plant is not able to nourish both foliage and flower at the same time. Therefore, the owner must choose what he likes to admire more: the blooming crown or lush foliage. It is worth noting that after the end of the flowering period, alocasia rests for 3 months.

Alocasia flowering

Flowering alocasia at home

Amateur gardeners replenish their home flower garden with alocasia for its decorative leaves and large bush. Having reached adulthood, in good conditions of maintenance, the indoor flower will endow with a released peduncle. But the leaves are much more decorative than the cob, which emits an aroma that not everyone can stand without a headache.

By devoting energy to flowering, and then to ripen the seeds, if pollination has occurred, the alocasia flower loses its decorative value. The leaves begin to fall, leaving a dry stem with a rhizome. Perhaps, a long time after insemination, the plant will recover if a competent grower puts it in a cool room to rest for several months.

What to do after the plant has bloomed

The flowering of alocasia takes a lot of energy from the plant, after which the plant necessarily loses one or more leaves. During this period, the trunk is exposed. Most often, the owners prefer to remove the peduncle, which is not very beautiful, but can destroy the rich foliage. It is important to remember: it is not the bud that needs to be removed, but the peduncle itself as soon as it begins to appear, without waiting for the plant to become exhausted.

When the inflorescence is removed or the flowering period is over, it is necessary to feed the plant with a complex of fertilizers, both mineral and organic.

Optimal time for planting

Alocasia should be planted in permanent soil immediately after purchasing it in a store.

You need to plant alocasia in a pot like this:

• The roots of the plant must be cleaned of soil and carefully inspected, identifying those that are dried out and rotten. The latter need to be removed.
• Alocasia roots need to be washed from the substrate and soaked for half an hour in a nutrient solution to improve the adaptive process of the plant.
• Now the flower needs to be placed in a previously prepared pot and filled with new soil. The root collar remains half-open, located at the very border of the soil.

The ideal time for planting alocasia is considered to be spring, when the plant enters the active growth phase. During the summer, the plant will have time to settle into its new location and will survive the winter well. However, if the plant was purchased in the autumn-winter period, it can and should also be planted in a pot. Only the adaptive period in this case takes a little longer.

How to make a lot out of one

Despite its non-European origin, the “shamrock” easily takes root from cuttings in captivity. Dividing the rhizome is also a good way to rejuvenate it.

It is also propagated by tubers, seeds and cuttings. The plant needs additional feeding, but sometimes it is enough to replant it.

It will pull all useful microelements from fresh soil. It is important to be aware of toxic droplets, so wear rubber gloves when planting.

Dividing the root is done with a sharp knife. Each segment of the cut should have a growth bud. The cut is sprinkled with crushed coal and allowed to dry, the shoot is planted in nutritious soil, placed in a shaded place and watered.

When replanting a bush, you can notice tiny tubers on its roots. This is also a breeding option. To do this, the nodules are planted in separate small pots (disposable cups) with drainage holes.

If the conditions are right, the indoor flower may throw out a bud. Don't delete it.

Ripe seeds are used as planting material. They are sown in peat and covered with film. If everything is done correctly, the babies will soon sprout. Only in a greenhouse environment they will not be variegated.

Cutting is cutting off the top or dividing the trunk. Place in the fungicide solution for half an hour. Sprinkle the cut with a stimulant and bury it in a mixture of sand and peat. Moisten and keep in the shade until the sprout gets stronger.

According to gardeners, growing several of these twins at home will not be difficult. It’s just important to remember that clayey, dense soil is not suitable for growing.

Soil selection, feeding and fertilizing alocasia

The ideal composition for growing alocasia will be one of the following:

• special soil with the inclusion of disintegrants (charcoal, sand or perlite);
• mixture for coniferous soil and birch coal;
• the presence of sphagnum and moss in the soil for alocasia is important;
• a good composition includes: garden soil, peat, orchid mixture, perlite and sphagnum, which is finely chopped;
• the plant behaves well in soil with the following composition: pine soil, high peat, sphagnum;
• a mixture of peat and soil from a greenhouse.

Most species of this plant love slightly acidic soil, and copper-red alocasia only accepts a substrate containing dolomite flour or lime. In addition, it is important to organize drainage at the bottom of the pot; its thickness should not be less than 2 cm.

Principles of fertilizing alocasia:

• In the summer, fertilizers are applied once every two weeks, and it is better to dilute the dose so as not to overload the plant with excess salt content.
• In winter, fertilizing is carried out once a month.
• Alocasia tolerates Agricola and Belvito fertilizers well.
• Fertilizing with bird droppings, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 30 and left for 5 days, helps the growth of the flower well.
• You can also use surface fertilizers for foliage. They should be less concentrated to prevent burning of the leaf plates.

There is also an opinion that there is no need to fertilize and feed alocasia. It is enough to replant it in fresh soil once a year.

Care

Alocasia is less demanding than you might think. Only excessive zeal in watering can ruin a plant, if the proper conditions are created for it.

How to water

The frequency of watering is changed, guided by the degree of drying of the earthen clod. Soil coming away from the edges of the pot is a completely unacceptable situation. In summer, when it’s hot, alocasia is watered every other day. In cooler weather, it is enough to do this half as often.

After watering the flower, wait about an hour and drain the excess moisture from the pan.

Alocasia prefers soft water at room temperature. Leave it for at least a day, adding a few citric acid crystals.

The flower independently signals about waterlogging: large drops of cell sap appear on the leaves.

What and when to feed

During the period of active rot, alocasia is fed with complex mineral fertilizer for ornamental foliage plants once every 12–15 days. The concentration recommended by the manufacturer is reduced by a third. Agricola, Good Power, Biohumus, Florist, Kemira, Pokon are quite suitable.

What to do to ensure a period of rest

From November to March, feeding is stopped. If the plant shows growth at this time, you can continue to fertilize, but not more often than once every 5-6 weeks.

The temperature should be reduced to 17–20ºС. Water the flower about once every 3-4 days . Here, too, it is important to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. When the soil on top is completely dry, wait another day.

In the cold season, you can even switch to moistening the substrate with a spray bottle and wiping the leaves with a damp cloth.

Lighting alocasia flowers

There has long been a widespread misconception that alocasia is shade-loving. This is not true, the plant respects bright light, which should be slightly diffused. This especially applies to those varieties that have variegated colors. If you keep alocasia in the shade, its foliage will become monochromatic and faded. New leaves will not grow large, and the weakened flower may dry out.

Installing the plant on a sunny windowsill would also be the wrong decision. The ideal option would be to create artificial shade using blinds or to grow alocasia in the east or west; the southern part is unlikely to be suitable. A window sill facing north can also be a good place for this flower to live. It is important, if necessary, to use artificial lighting, especially in winter, when daylight hours are already quite short.

Bloom

Flowers are not the strongest part of alocasia. Not every plant will bloom, and if it does, it’s better to immediately cut off the peduncle and sprinkle the cut area with activated carbon. If you leave the flower, leaf development will stop. There may be only one leaf left on the bush or none at all. So decide for yourself what suits you best.

In any case, expect flowering no earlier than 5-7 years of age. A dense, low peduncle is formed, on which a white or yellowish cob is located, almost completely wrapped in a scroll. The cover will begin to open only when flowering ends, and rounded fruits with seeds inside will appear.

Temperature, air humidity and watering of alocasia

Undoubtedly, a guest from the tropical forests needs to be watered frequently and abundantly. The following principles for organizing watering and air humidification for this plant can be noted:

• not all varieties can be sprayed (this applies to “Black Velvet” and “Royal Alocasia”); for them, wetting the leaves on their lower part through the small holes of a watering can is suitable;
• Installing trays under pots that will be filled with wet expanded clay helps a lot in maintaining the required level of moisture;
• From time to time you can take the flowers into the bath and give them a shower at room temperature;
• Lightly moistened sphagnum should be placed around the stem and the soil should be mulched;
• it is important to ensure regular ventilation of the room to prevent stagnant air, which can become an excellent place for the development of fungal infections;
• the optimal air temperature will be 20–25 degrees, occasionally you can drop it to 16 degrees;
• it is very important to prevent waterlogging of the soil and remove water from the trays in a timely manner;
• Alocasia does not like cold air flows from air conditioners, and at the height of summer it will definitely appreciate additional spraying.

Separately, it is necessary to note the difference in watering depending on the season:

1. In the spring and summer, an active vegetation process occurs: the soil must be watered as soon as its top layer dries out.
2. In autumn and winter, the soil requires watering no more than twice a week.

Popular questions and answers

Irina Zilbelvarg, Candidate of Biological Sciences, Associate Professor of the Department of Ornamental Plant Growing, answered the most pressing questions from flower growers about caring for alocasia

How to choose alocasia?

When choosing alocasia in the store, pay attention to whether the root system is flooded, whether there are black dots and brown spots on the leaves, or whether the leaves are pale. Most often, alocasia has 3 - 4 main leaves; it’s good if they are sufficiently developed, no more are needed. The soil should be moist, but there should not be any putrid odor from the pot, and water should not squelch in it.

What kind of pot is needed for alocasia?

You need to choose a pot that is tall and not too large - alocasia does not like spacious containers.

Does Alocasia bloom?

The plant can bloom and form an inflorescence spadix, somewhat similar to the inflorescence of a calla lily, only less decorative. However, at home, flowering is rare.

Why does alocasia turn yellow?

These could be various diseases, improper watering and air humidity, unsuitable soil, or natural aging. Alocasia requires high air humidity - from 70 to 90%. They feel great near bodies of water, for example, next to an aquarium.

Why do spots appear on alocasia?

Most likely these are fungal infections, and they appear from excess moisture.

Is it possible to grow alocasia indoors?

Since the plant is poisonous, I would not recommend having it for those who have small children and animals.
For example, cats very often try to taste indoor plants and can become poisoned. Sources

1. Grudzinskaya I.A. Arum family (Araceae) / Plant life. In 6 volumes. T. 6. Flowering plants / Under. ed. Takhtajyan A.L. // M.: Education, 1982
2. Tulintsev V.G. Floriculture with the basics of selection and seed production // Stroyizdat, Leningrad branch, 1977 - 208 p.
3. State catalog of pesticides and agrochemicals approved for use on the territory of the Russian Federation as of July 6, 2022 // Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation https://mcx.gov.ru/ministry/departments/departament-rastenievodstva-mekhanizatsii-khimizatsii- i-zashchity-rasteniy/industry-information/info-gosudarstvennaya-usluga-po-gosudarstvennoy-registratsii-pestitsidov-i-agrokhimikatov/

Plant care at different times of the year

Season	Lighting	Air temperature	Fertilizer	Transfer
Spring	At any time, the flower will appreciate soft, diffused light. The shade can lead to the death of the plant, and too bright sunlight can burn the foliage. This is especially important for alocasia with leaves of bright colors.	During this period, the plant is comfortable at 20–26 degrees	From April to October, nitrogen and other mineral-based supplements should be applied. The benefits from them will be maximum	Held annually in spring or early summer
Summer
Autumn		17–20 degrees is enough, occasionally you can lower the temperature to 16 degrees	The soil fertilization process is suspended	Not carried out. At this time, the plant is resting, and it is not recommended to replant it
Winter

Features of caring for Alocasia Polly

Alocasia Polly or Amazonica will definitely delight the owner with a wealth of lush greenery, if you manage to choose the right soil and ensure proper organization of watering the plant.

The plant will appreciate this indoor soil:

• air- and moisture-permeable;
• no fluid retention;
• ideal composition: peat, garden soil and mixture for growing orchids;
• There must be expanded clay or a small amount of pebbles in the tray under the pot, which must be periodically moistened with water.

Watering Alocasia Polly is very important; the soil should not dry out or, conversely, be too wet. The ideal option would be to water the plant with water that is at room temperature and pre-settled (ideally, boiled).

In summer or spring, all alocasia greens should be periodically sprinkled with water at room temperature; in winter, you can simply wipe the foliage with a soft, slightly moistened cloth. It is worth noting that exposure to a large amount of sunlight can cause Polly to turn yellow. In this case, it is important to increase the intensity of watering.

If polly begins to turn yellow and lose leaves, this may be evidence of a lack of water and light, and perhaps heat. It is important to optimize the care of the plant so that the flower will quickly resume its development and stop fading.

Transplantation and propagation of alocasia

It is advisable to replant alocasia 1–2 times a year. As a rule, a young plant can grow out of its pot in just 4 months, so it will have to be replanted twice a year. But a mature alocasia can be replanted after a year in order to give it more nutrients with new soil.

Breeding alocasia goes like this:

• You need to shake off the soil from the roots;
• tubers found among the roots can be planted separately;
• to obtain adventitious shoots, you can slightly deepen the roots of the plant;
• you need to replant the flower in a pot that is wider than the original one, and be sure to put expanded clay drainage on the bottom.

Rhizome division

Alocasia can be propagated by dividing its rhizomes. It is important to remember that this method must be combined with the annual replacement of the plant’s soil (from late March to early May).

Reproduction by dividing the rhizome is done as follows:

• first you need to carefully remove the soil without damaging the rhizomes;
• if the soil is compacted, you can moisten it a little under running water;
• Now you need to divide the rhizomes with a knife, be sure to leave a growth bud or rosette with foliage on each part;
• now the place where the rhizome was cut needs to be sprinkled with charcoal dust and left for 1 hour to dry completely;
• when the cut dries, it is transplanted into prepared soil and watered abundantly;
• now it is enough to maintain the air temperature at 24 degrees and regularly spray the plant; during this period you need to keep alocasia away from sunlight.

Tuber planting

In the spring, when tubers appear on the surface of the soil, they can be transplanted. It is not uncommon for tubers to begin to grow directly in the pot with the flower from which they came. In this case, careful separation of the tuber from the mature plant is required.

After this, the tubers need to be germinated; sphagnum moss will help for this purpose; it should be regularly moistened, preventing changes in the ambient temperature and maintaining it within 22–24 degrees. You can put a plastic bag over the pot with the germinating tubers to create the maximum level of humidity.

After the tuber germinates and the leaf peeking out from it unfolds, the young plant can be transplanted into the soil. You can start feeding this plant with fertilizers and minerals immediately after at least three leaves appear.

Using cuttings

Those varieties of alocasia that are decorated with emerald foliage can easily be propagated by cuttings. To do this, the following manipulations are carried out:

1. The top of the shoot is cut with a knife at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. Before planting the cutting, you need to treat it with a special product to stimulate growth (for example, “Novinka”).
3. Now the cuttings can be planted in the soil prepared in a pot and watered generously with warm water.
4. For better growth of alocasia, you need to create the most comfortable conditions for it:

• air temperature at 23 degrees;
• regular watering and spraying;
• no drafts.

It is important to remember that all work with alocasia should be carried out wearing protective gloves. At the same time, avoid allowing the plant juice to come into contact with the skin of the hands, face or mucous membranes.

Problems with Alocasia plants

Spider Mites / Scales / Mealybugs / Aphids - Alocasia is poisonous to humans, cats, dogs, etc., but is quite tasty and makes a good home for a variety of pests! Most of them can be eliminated by maintaining high humidity.

Brown leaves with yellow markings – If the leaves have yellow spots, it is likely due to one of the following:

Excessive watering. You can let the soil dry out a bit, but aim for moist, but never soggy, soil.

The plant or soil is too cold. The whole plant, even the roots, likes to be cozy. Keep it in a warm area and when watering make sure the water is not ice cold as this will cool the soil.

Dry, crispy alocasia leaves - This is usually a sign that the humidity around the plant is too low. They love warm places in your home, but they also need a certain level of humidity in the air. Some people suggest misting the plant, which will probably help in the short term, but you need to do it daily. If this is too much work, try some of the more traditional ways to achieve this for a more permanent solution.

Pale, mottled brown leaves – Leaves that are too light are usually caused by direct sunlight or the plant moving too quickly from a dark location to a very bright one.

My plant is wilting - If the plant has been healthy all year but everything dies back in the winter, your plant is likely entering a normal dying dormant period. This means that everything above the ground dies off. Continue tending to what will look like an empty pot because the rhizomes underground will still be alive. Growth will resume in spring.

If at any other time of the year the plant dies, then, unfortunately, you have not been able to adapt to its fussy nature. If you notice this early enough, it is not too late, try to create the conditions described in the care information above.

Plant pests and diseases

Alocasia, like other indoor plants, is not without problems with the occurrence of pests or diseases. To preserve the plant, you need to take timely measures to eliminate these problems.

What to do if problems appear with the plant?

Alocasia is not a very capricious flower, however, it does have some problems:

• The plant loses its growth rate: lack of nitrogen fertilizers, which can be compensated for with an aqueous solution of urea.
• Foliage withers: the soil is either too dry or waterlogged. In this case, you need to adjust the watering regime and, if necessary, replace the substrate in the tray.
• The color of the leaves turns pale: the flower lacks light, which can be increased by adding artificial lighting.
• The tips of the foliage dry out and turn brown: the air in the room is too dry or the plant does not have enough water. It is necessary to carry out regular spraying and watering with warm water.
• The leaves begin to rot: the plant is infected with root rot. It needs to be treated with an antifungal agent (“Fundozol”), the leaves that have rotted are removed. The plant itself requires transplantation into a substrate of a looser consistency.

Signs of infestation and pests

Alocasia is susceptible to infection by the following diseases and pests:

• Scale appears due to excessive moisture of the plant: the foliage of alocasia is covered with dark spots that also cover the stem of the plant. You can get rid of scale insects by spraying the flower with a solution of tobacco and soap mixed with kerosene. Pests should be removed with a cotton pad soaked in this solution.
• Aphids settle on the lower surface of leaves, which can cause them to curl and dry out. The flower must be treated with a special anti-aphid agent; after a day, the alocasia is washed and re-treated.
• A sign of a flower being damaged by a mealybug is the appearance of a whitish fluff and a stop in the growth of alocasia. The plant is treated with an alcohol solution, carefully wiping the foliage and stems.

How to deal with spider mites

The appearance of a small red spider should alert the owner; it could be a spider mite. It can cause alocasia a lot of trouble, including yellowing of the foliage.

You can get rid of spider mites by spraying the leaves with insecticides, followed by washing them with warm water. It is important to carefully treat the lower surface of the foliage, carefully removing all cobwebs.

Remedies for spider mites:

• tobacco infusion;
• pollination with store-bought insecticides (carried out only outdoors);
• ground sulfur;
• water.

Poisonous ones get sick too

The causes of diseases in alocasia are the same as in other aroids:

• dry air, in which the tips and edges of leaf plates dry out;
• lack of light, which causes the color to fade;
• insufficient or excessive watering, leading to leaf death;
• cold and drafts, “rewarding” alocasia with dark spotting;
• watering with hard water, which leads to yellowing.

A sick or weakened plant is affected by aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, thrips and scale insects - the whole range of greenhouse parasites. A “chemical war” is being waged against them using broad-spectrum insecticides (kinmiks, fufanon, etc.).

Medicinal properties of alocasia

The characteristics of alocasia indicate that this medicinal plant, pleasing to the eye with its flowering, however, can cause many problems. The thing is that the plant contains poison (mercuric chloride and cyanide), and in all its parts. Therefore, it is important to carry out all actions carried out with alocasia only with protective gloves, preventing the poison from getting on the mucous membranes and skin. You cannot die from exposure to the poison, but you can get quite noticeable burns. If there are children and animals in the house, you should think about the need to purchase alocasia.

This odorous, poisonous flower, which is dangerous in essence, has beneficial contents. That is why its cultivation is so widespread in the East. The medicinal properties of the plant allow it to be quite successfully used in the treatment of such diseases:

• pneumonia;
• tuberculosis;
• joint diseases;
• streptococcus and Escherichia coli;
• oncological diseases;
• gastrointestinal problems;
• flu;
• cardiovascular diseases.

Alocasia spreads phytoncides around itself and has a bactericidal effect on the air, which, together with the splendor of its emerald foliage, makes it a popular inhabitant of indoor greenhouses.