Park roses are one of several large groups of these beloved garden plants, differing in appearance and cultivation characteristics. The group of park roses includes ancient roses, including decorative types of cultivated rose hips.
Such plants have been successfully used for many decades in landscaping gardens, parks, summer cottages and city flower beds. Park roses have gained popularity due to their record winter hardiness, ease of care and resistance to many diseases. And also, of course, for the magnificent large bushes, abundant and colorful flowering and rich aroma, which cannot leave anyone indifferent.
- The best varieties of park roses: photos, names, descriptions, care tips
A variety of park roses are an incredible decoration for any garden. If you are confused about their varieties and varieties, we will help you find your way!
Today we’ll talk about planting and caring for park roses, so that you can place this miracle on your site.
How to propagate a park rose
Most often, roses are propagated on the site by vegetative methods:
- Cuttings. Before flowering or immediately after it, half-woody shoots are cut from the bush, shortened to 15 cm and a maximum of 2-3 leaves are left. The cuttings are rooted in water or immediately planted in the substrate. The grown shoots are transferred to the site next season.
- Layerings. If the rose's stems are flexible, one of them can be bent to the ground and buried, leaving the top above the surface. During the summer, the layering is provided with care - watered and insulated for the winter. In the spring it is separated from the bush and transferred to a new place.
- Division. If the park rose has grown well, in April or early May it can be dug out of the soil and cut into 2-3 parts along the rhizome. The delenki are soaked in an antiseptic and then seated in new places.
Park roses are usually not propagated by seeds. Most varieties in this case do not retain unique characteristics and degenerate.
It is recommended to propagate by division rose bushes older than 3-4 years.
What it is?
Speaking about park roses, it is immediately worth noting that there are several subgroups of such plants.
There are three in total:
cultivated rosehip species;
antique roses;
hybrids bred by modern breeders.
The park rose blooms early, and this process lasts up to a month, and in some varieties longer. The colors of the buds are very multifaceted: you can see both soft white flowers and specimens of deep purple color. To the touch, the bud is a little rough, terry, and the number of petals exceeds 100 pieces - no other variety of roses can boast of this.
Park roses can also be divided into two large groups:
- bloom once;
- blooming repeatedly.
The first variety most often grows in private plots, where the gardener has the opportunity to renew the plant annually. However, here you need to take into account an important nuance: you cannot cut off last year’s shoots: this will lead to flowering simply not happening. But such roses are incredibly frost-resistant; some varieties can easily spend the winter without additional shelter. Roses that bloom repeatedly do not always have the advantage of cold resistance. Here, too, there are excellent varieties that can survive the winter without any problems, but there are also those that require not only shelter, but also bending of the branches.
Let's consider the advantages of all park roses:
long and beautiful flowering;
excellent resistance of most varieties to Russian frosts;
availability of a wide range of species to choose from;
the ability to decorate and enliven any landscape design;
good resistance to diseases and pests.
There are several disadvantages that also need to be taken into account:
some varieties do not tolerate winter well if they are not prepared;
the plant requires proper watering and care;
Every 4–5 years you need to divide the bushes.
Planting and caring for park roses in the open ground
Photos about planting a park rose in open ground and caring for it show that the procedure is not associated with any particular difficulties. The gardener must only take into account the basic requirements of the crop for cultivation.
Conditions for planting and growing park roses
Park rose needs a lot of light, so it is customary to plant it in open areas. Small hills with shelter from strong winds work well.
The soil for planting park roses is chosen to be loose, neutral acidity, with good moisture and breathability. Shrubs should not be placed in close proximity to groundwater. In this case, the plant will often get sick even with good care.
Attention! Park roses are not planted in the shade. With a lack of light, the crop develops more slowly and produces few buds.
How to plant a park rose
Planting park roses in open ground in autumn or spring follows a simple scheme. First of all, you need to prepare the site. The chosen place is dug up properly, the soil is diluted with organic matter and river sand, and complex fertilizers are applied.
Immediately on the day of planting, they begin to prepare the seedlings. They must be carefully inspected and, if necessary, damaged areas of the roots must be trimmed. The plant is then soaked in a fungicidal solution for 20 minutes to prevent possible infections.
The planting of shrubs for subsequent care is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- Dig holes 50-70 cm deep in the area.
- Place a drainage layer of pebbles or crushed stone on the bottom.
- Place a nutrient substrate on top, laying it down to about half of the hole.
- Lower the seedling into the hole and straighten the roots to the sides.
- Fill the hole with the remaining soil and water it properly.
When planting, you can deepen the park rose up to 5-6 cm.
To make caring for bushes easier, when planting several plants, leave 1-1.5 m between them.
How to care for park roses
Caring for a park rose in the garden consists of several activities:
- Watering. The crop tolerates short-term lack of moisture well, but during periods of prolonged drought it requires moisture. With proper care, watering is carried out once a week, monitoring the condition of the soil and preventing waterlogging. Each bush uses about 30 liters of lukewarm, settled water.
- Loosening. After watering or rain, the soil at the roots of the park rose is weeded to remove weeds and the hard crust on its surface is broken. Simple soil care improves the availability of oxygen and nutrients.
- Feeding. They begin to fertilize the park rose from the second year of life. In the spring, preparations with a predominance of nitrogen are applied to the soil; in May, ammonium nitrate and potassium are used. After the buds wither, the bush is fed with superphosphate and compost.
- Mulching. To ensure that moisture evaporates more slowly, the soil after planting can be sprinkled with sawdust, straw or wood chips. The layer thickness should be 5-10 cm.
Throughout the season, ash can be added to the water for watering park roses. Wood powder contains many minerals and comprehensively strengthens the bush.
Trimming
Typically, park roses do not require pruning as part of their care for the first 2-3 years after planting. Then they begin to carry out spring or autumn sanitary pruning with the removal of dry, diseased and severely twisted shoots. At the same time, the bush is formed so that the crown maintains neat outlines.
Short pre-winter pruning is not mandatory for the crop. It is performed only in the coldest regions, provided that the stems of the plant cannot be bent to the ground.
Advice! During pruning to rejuvenate the bush, shoots older than 3-4 years can be removed. They take away resources from the park rose, but no longer participate in flowering.
Preparing for winter
In general, park roses are highly cold-resistant and are not afraid of frosts down to -25 °C. But if the winter is very harsh, and we are talking about young seedlings, it is better to worry about minimal shelter as part of their care.
With the onset of autumn, the park rose should be given a final moisture-replenishing watering and the bushes should be fed with potassium and phosphorus. After this, the plants are covered with dry soil, peat or compost. The shoots can be wrapped in non-woven material. If the variety is climbing, then the stems are first bent, laid on a cushion of dry foliage and covered with spruce branches on top.
In the spring, at the first thaw, the shelter must be opened slightly to ventilate the rose bushes
Varieties of varieties
Traditional park roses are wrinkled, white, prickly and French. Their bushes are covered with pink and white flowers in late spring.
Canadian and English varieties began to appear frequently in park compositions. They tolerate frost and bad weather better and are less susceptible to damage by pests.
Canadian
Popular varieties:
- John Davis - classically shaped buds with pink petals that emit a sweet aroma. Bushes 2.5 meters high grow 2 meters wide. Flowering duration is 4-5 months, from June until the first cold snap;
- John Franklin - a plant 120 centimeters high and 1 meter wide. The buds with double red petals are similar in shape to carnations and appear on the bushes from June to August;
- Morden Sunrise - the flowers are painted in an original orange-pink shade. The diameter of the delicate buds with wavy petals is 8 centimeters. The bush grows 1 meter in height. Its width is 70 centimeters. The variety has strong immunity to diseases.
The varieties are suitable for cultivation in the central and northern regions. In the southern regions they need to be watered abundantly. Canadian roses are not afraid of frost -35 degrees, but are not adapted for arid climates.
English
The following varieties are found in flower beds:
- Abraham Derby is an old-timer of the flowerbeds, known since 1985. Cup-shaped classic buds are painted in an apricot shade. A pink border stretches along the edges of the petals. In cool climates the bushes bloom more brightly. At the end of each shoot up to 3 peduncles appear. The variety grows quickly, blooms in two waves each year and is disease resistant;
- Benjamin Britten is a young variety that appeared in 2001. Distinctive features are orange-red cup-shaped buds, bushes 1 meter high, and a fruity-wine aroma. The variety is less adapted to rainy weather;
- William Shakespeare - the main variety blooms with pink buds, and the 2000 modification has red buds. Terry petals are densely arranged. The flower cups become flat towards the end of flowering, which lasts 14 days.
Varieties of roses from Great Britain are distinguished by giant buds 12 centimeters in diameter. The spreading shape of the bushes, double, pleasantly smelling flowers and minimal care costs make them desirable inhabitants of gardens.
Diseases and pests
Park roses have fairly high immunity and rarely suffer from diseases. But if planting is unsuccessful or with insufficient care, some infections can cause harm to them. In particular, the following are dangerous for culture:
- powdery mildew - the fungus covers the leaves of the plant with a whitish dry coating;
Powdery mildew develops in rainy, cold weather - black spotting - black-brown spots appear on the plates, over time they grow, and the bush begins to dry out;
Black spot appears on the bush closer to July - rust - the fungus is easily recognized by the reddish growths on the stems and leaves.
Rust affects the plant due to improper care and excessive watering in cloudy weather.
The fight against park rose diseases is carried out using copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture, as well as the drug Fitosporin. To prevent illnesses, it is enough to control the volume of watering and prevent thickening.
Sometimes parasites cause damage to shrubs. Among them are:
- spider mite - the insect entangles the stems and leaves of the crop with a cobweb in dry weather;
Spider mites interfere with plant photosynthesis and feed on leaf juices - aphids - a parasite that infects bushes en masse at the beginning of summer and quickly eats up the blades;
Leaves and buds begin to become deformed when infested with aphids. - pennitsa - the insect feeds on the leaves of the plant and leaves behind characteristic whitish traces.
Pennytail usually appears on rose bushes in May and June
Most pests can be dealt with in the early stages using a soap solution or garlic infusion. In case of serious lesions, insecticides are used for spraying as part of care - Actellik, Aktaru, Iskra and others.
Shelter for the winter
Modern rose varieties are much easier to grow in northern regions. When purchasing, it is best to give preference to regionalized varieties rather than exotic varieties. For successful wintering, it is imperative to provide the plants with sufficient shelter. The most effective way is to make an air “cushion”. To do this, the metal arch frames are covered with a layer of non-woven material. The covered branches are sprinkled with sawdust, and the shelter is supported from the outside with branches or stones.
If winters in your region are not so severe, it will be enough to simply throw spruce branches or branches over the shoots folded to the ground. They will hold snow well, preventing the shoots from freezing.
Tall bushes are simply tied together, wrapped in thick fabric. You can pour sawdust or peat onto the root area
It is important to provide shelter before the onset of severe frosts, but in warm weather be sure to ventilate so that accumulated moisture and heat do not contribute to the spread of fungus on the plant
What plants does it go with?
The park rose can be planted singly on the site - it looks great in solo flower beds. But more often the shrub is combined with other perennials to create the most effective compositions. The best neighbors for culture are:
- ornamental cereals;
- coniferous plants - junipers and thujas;
- foxgloves;
- geraniums and hostas;
- spirea;
- silver wormwood;
- heuchera;
- lavender and sage;
- clematis and delphiniums;
- phlox.
Park roses are often planted in front of trellises with grapes. Plants have the same care requirements. In addition, thorny varieties of decorative perennials provide natural protection from rodents for the berry crop.
In flower beds, rose bushes are usually planted in the background or in the center of compositions.
Choosing a landing site
All species do not require complex soil composition and cope well with droughts. Most of these plants are light-loving and thrive best in moderately moist loamy soil, not tolerating even the slightest excess of moisture. They can be planted in groups or individually - they will still look impressive. The vast majority of varieties of decorative rose hips belong to the type of once-blooming roses.
Resistance to low temperatures allows plants to be planted before the onset of permanent frosts, that is, until mid-October. Bushes that take root in the fall will be able to fully form by the time the weather warms up and will be much more viable than roses planted in the spring. The distance between seedlings is standard: at least one hundred and fifty centimeters between adjacent plants and three meters between rows. If the rose is to be turned into a hedge, then the gap between adjacent plantings is reduced to fifty centimeters and to seventy between rows.
Although roses do not require a complex soil composition, they still need fertilizer. Immediately before planting, it is worth enriching the soil with organic and mineral additives. The part of the plant that is above the ground is cut off, leaving no more than one third of the length of the shoot.
Particular attention should be paid to the landing pit. It should be large enough so that the roots can fit along its entire length without bending or breaking off.
The root collar is grafted at a depth of ten centimeters. Then the rose is spudded, and its height should not exceed twenty-five centimeters. After all operations have been carried out, the soil is sprinkled with peat and straw crumbs.
Botanical description
The rose plant, depending on the species to which it belongs, forms bushes of various shapes - from narrow pyramidal to spreading. And the height of the bush depends on whether it belongs to a particular species and ranges from 25 cm to more than 3 meters. Rose bushes consist of two types of branches: main, or uterine, and annual shoots. The leaves of the rose are odd-pinnate, with ovate or elliptical leaflets with a serrated edge and two leaf-like stipules. The length of the rose peduncle is from 10 to 80 cm, the rose flowers are large - from 2 to 18 cm in diameter, and amaze the imagination with a variety of shapes and colors. They can consist of five or one hundred and twenty petals, can be single or form inflorescences that include from three to two hundred flowers.
Depending on the shape of the flower, there are peony, pompom, cup-shaped, cone-shaped, flat, saucer-shaped, spherical and others. As for the color of flowers, only bright blue roses have not yet been bred, and all other colors and shades, as well as all sorts of their combinations, are widely represented by a huge number of varieties and hybrids that continue to appear almost every year. And although the flowering of a rose, in principle, is one of the most amazing phenomena, roses in the garden, gradually changing one color to another during the flowering process, can cause admiration even among experienced professionals.
Roses differ not only in a huge number of shapes and colors, but also in a variety of enchanting aromas.
