We tell you what to do if the orchid has leaves on its peduncle

What to do if an orchid has leaves on its peduncle? Birth of a baby

After the end of flowering, a lonely flower-bearing arrow remains in the flowerpot. If it remains alive and green, without signs of drying out, then after a while dormant buds may wake up , from which the following can form:

• lateral peduncle , thanks to which the orchid will bloom again;
• small leaves that will eventually develop roots. the children (shoots) that develop - small, cavity-formed orchids.

Often they appear not only on the flower stalk, but also grow from the roots (basal children) or from buds in the leaf axils.

On the peduncle

The formation of children on the flower stalk means that even an inexperienced amateur can grow one or several independent plants without extra effort, without injuring the orchid.

This method is most convenient for vegetative propagation of orchids at home.

Baby on a peduncle.

Conditions for appearance

The most suitable period for the formation of children comes after the end of a long flowering period. The plant must have a well-developed root system and at least two pairs of large leaves.

As a rule, there are 3-4, sometimes more, dormant buds on the peduncle. In order for them to wake up, it is necessary to cut off the peduncle above one of them at a height of 2-3 cm.

Trimming the peduncles does not guarantee that the buds will wake up; after pruning, the peduncle can remain dormant for a whole year and then dry up. More often, pruning stimulates the awakening of the remaining dormant buds that are located on the flower-bearing arrow.

Sometimes children form on their own, but in some cases, even if the plant is in optimal conditions, stimulation of their forcing is necessary . This is facilitated by:

• daily temperature fluctuations. At night it should be cool - up to +17-18℃, during the day - up to +27-30℃. These conditions are most favorable in the spring and summer on a glazed balcony;
• poor watering should be combined with high relative humidity. When kept indoors, this requires regular spraying and placing the plant on a tray with damp moss or pebbles;
• a large amount of intense diffuse light.

The probability of the formation of children on flower-bearing arrows greatly increases with the use of special preparations - growth stimulants, primarily cytokinin paste.

When can you separate?

At the first stage, it is quite difficult to distinguish the baby from the side arrow on the peduncle, but as it grows, the differences will become more and more noticeable:

• The baby's leaves appear first, then the roots develop;
• 6 months after the baby appears, she already has 2 pairs of leaves.

After six months, the formed process is ready for separation. By this time, the baby should have formed 3-4 roots about 5 cm long. If the baby’s roots are too small, then the transplanted orchid will take a long time to take root and hurt. In this case, you should postpone the separation and wait for the roots to grow.

The baby can be separated when it has formed roots.

Separation technology. How to eliminate the main risks for the plant?

In order to eliminate possible risks for an adult plant, first of all, prepare the tools and related materials for work:

• disinfect garden pruners, knife or scissors;
• crush several tablets of activated carbon;
• prepare a transparent glass or flowerpot with drainage holes;
• purchase or prepare your own substrate for planting a small orchid.

The volume of the glass must correspond to the volume of the root system : the roots in it must be placed quite tightly.

Separating the baby from the flower-bearing arrow is quite simple:

• when separating at the edges, the children leave up to 2 cm of the stem of the flower-bearing arrow;
• the cut is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon and allowed to dry for half an hour;
• the baby is transplanted into a separate pot with a special soil mixture and placed in a greenhouse.

After nine months, the small orchid no longer needs greenhouse conditions, and the first flowering can be expected in 2-3 years.

In the leaf axil

From the buds, which are located in the axils of the leaves, peduncles develop in some climatic conditions, and lateral shoots (babies) in others . Sometimes the plant produces several shoots at once.

A baby growing from the axil of a leaf.

During the period of formation of shoots, the orchid requires ordinary care and regular watering. At this time, fertilizing is carried out with fertilizers containing a high nitrogen content, which stimulates the growth of the baby.

How long can a mother plant grow?

In order for the baby to be fully formed, it must spend about six months . Its maturity is determined by the number and length of roots.

Peduncle of an orchid: causes of diseases and methods of combating them

At home, they breed orchids so that they bloom beautifully and delight their owners. Sometimes the onset of the decorative period is delayed. In addition, inexperienced flower growers confuse flowering shoots with aerial roots or children. It is useful to know what the peduncle of an orchid is and how it appears. If a flower stem is being formed, it is important to create ideal conditions for proper care and growth. The appearance of flowers will not be long in coming.

Reasons for appearance

The elongated flexible shoot where the buds form is called a peduncle. One flower arrow holds 10-50 buds. When the previous stem is cut not to the base, but to a dormant bud, it will produce a peduncle in the fall. Flowers will form on it in a month and a half.

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Reasons for the appearance of babies on the stem

Experienced flower growers believe that the formation of babies on the trunk or in the leaf axil is associated with unfavorable growing conditions:

• stem injury;
• dying off of the growth point;
• long-term drought;
• with the development of a flower-bearing arrow from the center of the rosette.

Dying of the growing point

Typically, stem babies appear when the growing point dies or after a peduncle has developed from it. Such a plant will no longer grow or bloom . The baby that has formed at the growth point will give rise to a new plant.

Key Features

If the babies appear on the stem itself, it is not recommended to separate them , since they do not form their own roots and if separated incorrectly, the mother plant may die.

Pruning after flowering at home

Whether an orchid needs to be pruned after flowering depends only on the condition of the flower itself.

This procedure must be carried out very carefully. One wrong action can lead to the fact that the plant begins to receive less nutrients and gradually begins to wither and die.

The process should be performed in stages, starting with preparing and disinfecting the necessary tools, ending with removing the shoot and processing the cut point.

Preparation for cutting

To prune Phalaenopsis after flowering, you will need the following tools and equipment:

• garden pruner;
• alcohol or chloramine solution;
• latex gloves;
• antiseptic: iodine, brilliant green or activated carbon.

Before you begin to remove flower stalks from an orchid after flowering, you should wear long sleeves and thick rubber gloves. This measure is necessary to protect your hands from irritation or an allergic reaction. After this, the working tool should be dipped in alcohol or chloramine solution for several minutes. Disinfection is necessary in order to protect the plant from bacterial or viral infection. If there is no special solution, then you can treat the instrument with boiling water.

Note! It is not recommended to cut the leaves or arrows of an orchid with scissors or a regular knife. Thus, it is quite easy to damage or injure the plant, which will lead to its disease and weakening.

Determining the cut point

The peduncle of each flower looks different. It may be long and empty or abundantly covered with dormant or active buds. In this case, you can trim the arrow in one of 2 ways:

1. Removing a dry, faded branch at a distance of 1 to 2 centimeters from the bud that is well developed. If you cut the stem shorter, the living bud will gradually dry out, which will cause it to go into a dormant state.
2. The dried and browned peduncle must be cut off completely to the level where the living stem begins.

2 or 3 buds can be formed on one shoot. Experienced gardeners recommend pruning the orchid as close to the base as possible. This will contribute to the formation of a new side shoot that will bloom better.

Slice processing

Correctly trimming the peduncle of an orchid is not enough. Even if you perform this procedure strictly according to the instructions, in compliance with all the rules, and use high-quality, sharp, disinfected instruments, the flower will begin to wither and die after the procedure. This may be due to the fact that an infection or bacteria entered through an open “wound”, which led to a general infection of the entire plant.

After completing the procedure, it is necessary to process the orchid cut. Any antiseptic is suitable for this - iodine, brilliant green or activated carbon, previously diluted with water to a paste. Before watering, it is additionally recommended to cover the cut trunk with clay or beeswax. This measure is necessary to prevent the penetration of liquid, which can trigger the process of color decay.

What to do if the stem is hollow inside

You can cut off the leaves or stem of an orchid and then find that you are left with a full stump. This should alert the gardener. After watering is carried out, more and more water will accumulate in the plant. If this is not prevented in time, the plant will gradually begin to rot and become susceptible to an infectious or bacterial disease. The hollow cut also needs to be treated generously with beeswax.

The growing peduncle of an orchid has broken: tips Orchids are fragile plants that require careful care and attention. The peduncle requires careful handling...

Leaves have appeared on the orchid's shoot, what to do?

Phalaenopsis are often called "butterfly orchids" because their charming flowers come in a variety of shapes, sizes, patterns and colors - white, yellow, pink, red, purple, brown and green - reminiscent of tropical moths. The elegant lip of the flower, often contrasting in color, stands out effectively against the background of patterned (striped, netted, tiger, speckled) or evenly colored flower petals, reaching 8 cm in diameter. There are two types of phalaenopsis: standard and miniature. During flowering, standard phalaenopsis species reach a height of 1 meter with a dozen or more flowers on a long peduncle; miniature, no more than 30 cm high, with fewer smaller flowers on a short peduncle. Different types and varieties of phalaenopsis bloom at different times, each orchid can bloom up to 3 times a year. The tongue-shaped, wide leaves of phalaenopsis (usually 4-5 of them) appear in pairs on the rhizome growing upward. The flower arrow appears at the base of the last formed leaf. The falling of the lower old leaves is normal, so the orchid does not grow too much. There are no pseudobulbs in phalaenopsis, but there are a huge number of roots with which in nature these orchids firmly hold onto the bark of trees or rocks (among phalaenopsis there are both epiphytes and lithophytes). Phalaenopsis are unpretentious evergreen, ever-growing orchids; Their species and hybrids that bloom almost all year round are ideal for beginners. With proper care, phalaenopsis bloom profusely, for a long time and live in the house for up to 7 years. Phalaenopsis requires a warm place with diffused light without direct sunlight. Phalaenopsis also grow well in the back of the room with sufficient artificial lighting. With a lack of light and when the temperature drops below 16 degrees, the buds of phalaenopsis prepared for flowering may fall off. The temperature of keeping these heat-loving orchids should not be lower than 18 degrees (except in autumn, when it is necessary to keep phalaenopsis for about 1-2 months at a temperature of 16 degrees for the formation of flower buds); The comfort zone for phalaenopsis is within 22-24 degrees. Watering should be very moderate all year round, especially in winter. The substrate should not dry out too much, but before the next watering, let it dry slightly - the roots of phalaenopsis, in addition to water, need air. Excessive watering may cause fungal infections. Irrigation water should not get into the growth point - the center of the rhizome in order to avoid its rotting. You can water phalaenopsis using the “bathing” method, half-immersing the pot with the orchid for a short time in a bucket of soft water so that the substrate is saturated with moisture. Phalaenopsis requires constant maintenance of high air humidity in all possible ways. Spraying the leaves and air around the orchid should be carried out in the finest spray mode, so that the water comes out in the form of “fog” and falls on the leaves in the form of “water dust”, and not droplets, which, when flowing, can fall into the core of the rosette of leaves, which will lead to to rotting. When spraying, water should not get on the flowers. In dry air, the orchid can be affected by scale insects. Phalaenopsis is transplanted once every 2 years into a rough, loose orchid substrate; The pot is taken a little larger than before. When replanting, you need to minimize damage to the fragile roots in contact with the edges of the pot; The pot is taken a little larger than before. In the summer, 2 times a month, orchids need to be fertilized in a low concentration (sick plants cannot be fertilized); during the rest of the year, including winter, they are rarely fertilized in an even lower concentration. Phalaenopsis do not form pseudobulbs and reproduce by “babies” appearing on flower stems; When the roots of young shoots reach a length of 5 cm, they can be planted in a separate pot. Phalaenopsis flower shoots are beautifully curved or drooping (and on one flower shoot an orchid can bloom 2-3 times if you cut the flower stem above the 3rd or 4th node until it has completely bloomed). Shortening the stem helps

Pruning an orchid after flowering

Pruning an orchid after flowering

It is important to understand that at this time the dormant period begins, which is ideal for pruning the flower. If you miss time, buds will appear on the arrow, the orchid will enter the active phase, which will make it impossible to trim

By the way, many flower growers are inclined to believe that frequent and abundant flowering is one of the factors that weakens the plant. For complete restoration, the flower needs a period of rest.

The orchid usually blooms for two to six months. Moreover, flowering can repeat two or three times a year. The duration of flowering and frequency directly depend on the type of flower and is a hereditary factor. In addition, growing conditions, the health of the flower and proper maintenance after flowering can have an impact.

If you don’t know what type of orchid you have, it is advisable to observe how the flowering shoot (sometimes called a branch, arrow or tendril) behaves after the flowers fall:

• changes color to brown or yellowish, dries and turns yellow;
• partially dries out;
• remains green.

The fact is that certain types of orchids have flower stalks on which buds grow almost immediately after flowering, and this continues for many years. There is no need to trim the arrows of such orchids.

Let's look at examples of when an orchid needs pruning and when it doesn't. The most common cases are when the peduncle:

1. With wilted or faded flowers. Do not rush to trim the frog, especially if the tip (sometimes called the crown) of the branch is green. There is a high probability of new buds forming. If necessary, you can shorten the peduncle by cutting it so that at least one centimeter remains above the last dormant bud. This also gives impetus to the formation of young flowering shoots or the formation of children. Of course, on the side shoot the flowering will not be as intense, but no less beautiful.
2. Remained green. It can be left without pruning: children or new flowers will form on it four to ten weeks after the previous inflorescences fall off. You can cut off the peduncle and place it in a glass of water to form a baby. In spring, it is rational to carry out stimulating pruning, which involves cutting off the peduncle so that at least two centimeters remain above the last dormant bud. This will be the impetus for the formation of children, which usually appear in the spring.
3. Turned brown and dried out. If the trunk is dry, dark and stick-like, it needs to be removed. Do this after the peduncle has dried. If it is still greenish, the plant can thanks to it receive nutrients accumulated during the flowering period, which contribute to further growth and rapid recovery. Pruning should be done so that there is at least two centimeters from the base of the leaf rosette. After one to three months, with proper care, a new peduncle will be formed.
4. Dried, but not completely. Watch the peduncle for now. Perhaps there are dormant buds on it, from which buds can form. If you cut off such a peduncle, this can slow down the recovery period and also delay the flowering of the plant by at least six months. If drying is observed from the end of the peduncle, then pruning should be done to living tissue.
5. It has dormant buds, but fades slowly. The correct solution is the observer position. Keep an eye on the sleeping buds, perhaps they will wake up and form new flowers or babies. If necessary, you can trim such a peduncle so that about two centimeters remain above the dormant bud. This will give an impetus to awakening.

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Proper pruning is the key to plant health and abundant flowering in the future. It often happens that the formation of a new flower stalk on the stem does not occur, since the flower spends all its strength to preserve the old flower stalk.

The video explains in what cases it is necessary to trim the peduncle, as well as how to do it correctly so as not to harm the plant.

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Possible mistakes of flower growers

The question of why orchids do not bloom is asked by beginners and experienced gardeners. First of all, you need to carefully examine the plant, check whether the root or fleshy stem has rotted. You should be wary if the leaves begin to turn yellow and become covered with brown spots. These signs indicate rotting due to improper watering. Also causes of damage are bright sun rays, extreme cold at home, excess fertilizer or soil in the pot.

Lack of lighting

Lack of natural light leads to the fact that the plant does not bloom or drops its buds. Often this situation occurs if the pot is on a northern, northwestern window sill. On the dark side, the lighting is dim, insufficient for flowering even on long summer days. Shade-loving varieties include Paphiopedilum and Phalaenopsis; other hybrids require more light.

Cattleya, Oncidium or Dendrobium, in addition to natural sunlight, require additional lighting with special electric lamps. Moreover, in the summer they are grown in the garden, on the balcony. These hybrids need fresh air to bloom. Leaves and blooming flowers are protected from direct sunlight, otherwise the plant will get burned. On a bright sunny day, it is recommended to slightly shade the window with a translucent curtain, creating diffused light in the room.

If the leaves have acquired a light green color, the flower is removed from a place that is too light for it. If they become dark, move the pot to the sunny side and transfer it to the southern window sill.

Drying or rotting roots

If the flowers of an orchid fall off or it does not bloom, the cause is drying out roots. Not only the root receives moisture, but also the aerial shoots. They should be periodically sprayed with settled water. It is sometimes necessary to replant the flower, changing the old substrate. Weak roots will not allow the plant to release flower stalks or gain strength to fully open the buds.

Another reason is excess moisture. If you water the substrate every other day or even a couple of times a week, the roots will rot. Watering is carried out regularly, but moderately. There should be no water remaining in the pan. It is important to monitor the moisture content of the soil mixture during the winter dormancy period. It is not difficult to understand that leaves and pseudobulbs have enough moisture. Over time, they increase in size, and each leaf remains green, shiny, dense.

Weak shoots

Florists distinguish 2 types of orchids: monopodial and sympodial. Monopodials (Vanda, Phalaenopsis) are distinguished by one central stem, from which elongated leaves grow on both sides. In a year, 2 leaves of the same size usually grow, the next ones grow from the base below. For such plants to bloom, new leaves must appear regularly.

Sympodial varieties produce 2-3 peduncles at once. The stem-like shoots are called pseudobulbs. They grow in summer, requiring moderate watering, good lighting and fertilizer. If the shoots are weak, the pseudobulbs will not be able to produce several flower stalks.

Wrong season

Often a peduncle does not form due to the fact that the temperature or humidity of the room is not suitable for the plant. Each variety begins flowering at a certain time of the year, following its biological cycle. Most orchids bloom not in summer, but in autumn or winter, less often in spring. Flower shops use special forcing, so a recently purchased flower at home can quickly wither and shed its buds and leaves.

In summer, the stem and pseudobulbs grow, gaining strength for the subsequent release of the peduncle. The young plant produces flowers only 6-7 months after transplantation. During this time, new roots are formed. Until 5-6 new leaves have appeared, you should not dream of blooming buds.

In order for the blossoming flowers to please the gardener with abundant blooms 2 times a year, you need to buy Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya. The beautifully blooming Phalaenopsis blooms only once a year, but its buds do not fall off for 3-4 months. After this, dormancy sets in, requiring reduced watering and lighting.

Lack of fertilizers

Tropical orchids wither and stop blooming due to lack or excess of fertilizers. Under natural conditions, nutrients are supplied through the roots from the natural substrate, but at home you have to add concentrate from a bottle and dilute the granules with water. Incorrect application of fertilizers according to the calendar or once a week will result in the plant not blooming. Only leaves and roots will grow.

You can feed a flower only from the moment the peduncle appears until the first flower begins to open. After this, it is forbidden to fertilize the substrate, otherwise all the flowers will fall off before they have even opened.

In addition to these reasons, temperature changes in the room and the characteristics of each variety are taken into account. The Dendrobium species appears dried out and sheds its leaves before the flowering phase begins. When the phase ends, the stem again pleases the eye with lush greenery.

If an orchid does not bloom, recommendations from experienced amateur flower growers will tell you what to do. Sometimes it’s enough just to rearrange the pot and increase the humidity in the room to achieve abundant flowering of the buds of your favorite phalaenopsis.

How is it different from other parts of the plant?

Often, novice flower growers cannot determine what the orchid has produced: a root or an arrow . Indeed, only a florist with many years of experience can accurately identify the part of a plant, especially at first. But after some time, when the process reaches 1 cm in length, this will not be difficult to do.

Immediately after its appearance, the root begins to look down (stretches towards the soil and nutrients in it), and the arrow begins to look up (stretches towards the light), just like the root baby. The root is smooth, and the arrow contains "scales". The root most often grows from the neck of the plant trunk, the shoot - between the leaf plates.

We invite you to watch a video on how to distinguish the peduncle from other parts of the orchid:

What does the peduncle look like?

How to distinguish a peduncle from a phalaenopsis orchid root, differences:

• The shape of the peduncle differs from the root; at the shoot it is cone-shaped, and at the root it is rounded;
• The peduncle differs from the root child; when it grows a little, the tip will have the shape of a boat;
• The peduncle of an orchid grows from the leaf axil (central vein);
• often the orchid shoots an arrow above the place of former flowering;
• When buds form on the sprout, they can no longer be confused with the root.

Note. The difference between the arrow and the other part is the irregularities that look like scales

They appear even on small shoots. In the future they will transform into kidneys.

The peduncle is the main part of the orchid, which serves as the heart of the plant. The stem adds beauty. Each phalaenopsis has a small tip. If it grows green, then you can count on the appearance of new buds.

The stem may change throughout the life cycle depending on the situation. There are 2 types:

1. A new one emerges from the leaf axil. And the peduncle is flat in shape, has a pointed end with small scales. More often it has a light green or bright green tint.
2. Old. The sprout turns into a long green stem as it grows. Buds appear on it. The branches are very fragile and break easily. They need tying up.

Beginning flower growers cannot understand when the flowering period ends. As long as the tip of the stem is green, the flower continues to grow. If the tip turns yellow, flowering has stopped. The stem can be cut and the orchid can be put into a dormant state.

The root has a blunt end. The peduncle grows from the axil of the plant leaf. The orchid shoots an arrow. It happens that it comes out of its growth point. All other sprouts that appear from the stem can be either children or roots. If the stem develops quickly, this indicates proper care. But if the sprout grows slowly, and then turns yellow and dries out, this indicates a lack of lighting, irregular watering, or incorrect fertilizing. It usually takes up to 2 or 3 months for the stem to develop.

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Role” in the life of a plant

The arrow of an orchid performs a reproductive function. It most often produces babies - small copies of the orchid itself. After they produce a couple of leaves and 3-4 roots, they can be rooted.

In addition, the peduncle is involved in the appearance and development of flowers and buds , nourishes them with water and nutrients, thereby continuing to perform a reproductive function. Each orchid flower contains a seed capsule in which the seeds ripen after pollination by insects. An orchid can also be grown from seeds, but this can happen either in a natural environment - the tropics, or in laboratories, since this process is long and intricate.

Possible problems and difficulties

What can wrong care lead to?

Improper care or even a mistake in care can not only delay the flowering phase, but also deprive the orchid of this holiday. Excessive watering can trigger the process of rotting of the root system, which will trigger the shedding of flowers, buds, and even wilting of leaves or the entire plant. Lack of lighting significantly impairs the quality of flowering and can cause flowers to drop.

Frequent errors leading to slow, lack of flowering or reset flowers are:

• trimming undried flowering arrows;
• very short trimming of the peduncle;
• frequent fertilizing, especially during the flowering period;
• placement in a place illuminated by sunlight.

Do not cut the peduncle too short.

The orchid released a peduncle and froze

There are several reasons for this condition, but there are not many main ones that often provoke the fading of the growth of the peduncle.

It is impossible to change the place of growth during the period of laying and formation of the peduncle . Orchids experience severe stress from even a slight rotation along the axis.

Stopping may occur due to lack of power, low light or low temperature. This is especially true for young plants.

Recommendation! Orchids are rather capricious plants to care for. Even a slight deviation or excessive care affects the development and stages of the growing season.

The arrow grows from the growth point

The peduncle is formed from the axil of the leaves, but sometimes, when purchasing an orchid, we notice that the arrow is formed from the growing point, which is unnatural. This means that the orchid will no longer grow upward.

This happens due to mutations or unsuccessful hybridization . Instant forcing or myricloning can also affect the placement of the flower stalk.

Such a peduncle will not grow after flowering, but it can produce a baby whose flowering you will have to wait for. Of course, the orha will not die, but you will have to wait a long time for the next flowering.

Sometimes they resort to pruning before the flowering stage is completed. With proper care, babies should appear in 5-6 months. Their care depends on where they appear.

The young peduncle turned yellow and withered

There may be several reasons influencing the yellowing and subsequent drying of a newly appeared peduncle:

• after transplantation . All forces and energy are aimed at developing the root system in the new substrate, discarding parts of the plant that are unnecessary during this period;
• the difference between day and night temperatures is not observed . For full development and supply of carbon dioxide, which is necessary for the formation of new cells, the night temperature must differ from the daytime and be 5-7 ° C lower. At high night temperatures, the supply of CO2 is inhibited and in the daytime it is taken from its own reserves, thereby depriving peduncle and lower leaves are fully functional;
• lack of essential nutrients . Due to the lack of important elements (N, K, F), the plant has to take them from old cells. Basically, they are taken from the reproductive organs, which is the peduncle.

In a situation where the flower-bearing arrow has not completely dried, it should be cut to a section of living tissue , not forgetting to treat the cut site afterwards. After some time, a side branch may appear. If this does not happen and the arrow continues to turn yellow and dry, then it should be completely cut off, leaving a stump of 1.5 to 2.5 cm.

After pruning, children can form from the peduncle.

Experienced orchid growers, in order not to take risks, recommend cutting off the yellow piece of the peduncle above the bud and forgetting about it . Over time, a new shoot will appear from the dormant buds.

No buds or flowers

Usually there are two reasons for the absence of flowers on the peduncle - care and age . In the first case, you need to carefully examine the orchid: the condition of the roots, leaf turgor, spots on the leaves, etc. Each deficiency affects the formation of buds and, accordingly, subsequent flowering.

Perhaps the plant is overflowing, there is little or too much light, the temperature regime is incorrectly chosen, problems with the substrate, underfeeding or overfeeding with fertilizers. Timely elimination of the cause will prevent the peduncle from starting the drying process, and it will begin to form buds.

Advice! If the orha develops, grows roots and leaves, then it is in the active process of development. With a set of root and leaf masses, it will devote all its efforts to creating offspring, i.e., to forming buds and flowering.

If the plant is very young, then it simply does not have enough strength . It will get stronger, gain strength, green mass and will subsequently delight the grower with full flowering if it is provided with proper care and acceptable conditions are created.

Sometimes you just need to stimulate the process by reducing the alternation of watering, temperature changes or medications.

Leaves on a peduncle

This is the birth of a new orchid due to a baby formed from a bud. You need to let it grow so that 3-4 leaves are formed and the roots grow, and then detach it and grow a new tropical beauty from it.

Periodically, it can be recharged by sprinkling a little warm water or a minimal concentration of the nutrient mixture.

Transfer

Transplantation during flowering is possible, but only for very good reasons:

• root problems;
• very cramped pot;
• disease or pests.

Or while the peduncle is in the growth stage, a careful transplant is possible. The main thing is to be in time before budding begins.

How did the flower shoot?

After the period of active growth of roots and leaves, the orchid enters a resting phase, during which the plant shoots out an arrow. Most often this period occurs in autumn, but in good conditions the orchid can bloom several times a year.

An orchid shoot is released from the axil of a leaf , usually the lowest one. The leaf axil is the place where the orchid leaf comes into contact with its trunk. The arrow breaks through the sheet and tends upward. The appearance of the arrow occurs under the influence of many factors: lighting, temperature, watering. If favorable conditions are not created for the orchid, then the formation and release of a peduncle will be impossible.

When and where does it appear?

The orchid releases a young thin peduncle from the axil - the place where the leaf most closely fits with the stem. Over time, a small arrow transforms into a full-fledged long and flexible stem, on which buds are already appearing. This, in turn, leads to the fact that the peduncle begins to droop

It is important to distinguish the peduncle from the root, which grows under the leaves at the base of the bush, but sometimes passes between the leaves. In addition, the tip of the shoot is pointed, and at the root it is rounded and blunt

The surface of the peduncle is often covered with scales, which cannot be said about the root system.

The most successful season for the appearance of stems is considered to be autumn, but leaves appear in the summer months. The period from the beginning of the formation of the peduncle to the actual flowering does not last too long - approximately eight weeks. Depending on the lighting system, this gap may vary up or down. By the way, if at the same time an orchid produces both a peduncle and a new leaf, then you should not cut off either one or the other - the plant itself will determine what it will develop further.

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What to do during this process?

1. Place the container with the flower in a well-lit place. Windows facing south, southeast and southwest are suitable for this.
2. If daylight hours last less than 12 hours, then the orchid must be placed under an additional light source (fluorescent lamp, phytolamp).
3. Provide systematic moderate watering with settled or boiled water at room temperature.
4. Continue to feed the plant if this was done before the arrow was released.

We invite you to watch a video containing recommendations for caring for orchids that have released a peduncle:

How to prune an orchid correctly so as not to harm it

After flowering, the orchid is left with a long and ugly stem on which there were flowers. My hands are just itching to cut it off. But the arrow cannot always be cut. They decide whether to trim a flower shoot, focusing on its appearance and the type of orchid. After flowering, some plants go to rest and the peduncle dries out, others may bloom again. In the second, the shoot is not cut off as long as it remains green.

Popular articles Rose Mainzer Fastnacht - description of the variety

Signs that your orchid will soon need to be trimmed:

• the green arrow begins to turn yellow or brown, the purple one becomes dark pink;
• instead of a peduncle, a dry stick sticks out;
• The shoot has been green for 6 months, but the orchid does not bloom.

When caring for an orchid, there is no need to be in a particular hurry when trimming flower stalks. Depending on the type of plant, the arrow can be “disposable” or can act as a platform for repeated flowering. If the flower stem begins to dry out, it is allowed to dry completely and only then cut off.

Continued growth of the cut arrow of phalaenopsis

What to do if you can't escape?

1. Arrange a temperature difference . The difference between the thermometer readings at night and during the day should be 5C – 7C. A similar difference can be achieved by placing the orchid pot on a heated balcony or terrace.
2. Provide enough light for the plant. The required daylight hours are 10–12 hours. In the cold season (autumn, winter), the flower must be illuminated with a phytolamp.
3. Ensure proper watering . The orchid requires moderate, systematic watering before flowering and when the arrow appears. But it is important to remember the main principle: do not flood the roots! It is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the root system and substrate.

4. 
   Monitor the humidity level in the room where the orchid is located. To release the arrow, the optimal humidity should be 30% - 40%.

5. Provide the plant with fertilizers based on potassium and phosphorus: they have a beneficial effect on the formation of flower buds.
6. Scare . If the above points have been completed, but the orchid has not released an arrow, then it is recommended to arrange a stressful situation for it: reduce watering to a minimum and move the pot to a cooler place.

Some florists use special chemicals to stimulate orchids to bloom. "Epin" is very popular. They should spray the plant daily in the morning.

You can also water the plant by adding 3 to 5 drops of the drug to the water (details in the instructions).

We suggest watching a video about why an orchid does not produce a peduncle and what to do in this case:

Follow these 9 rules and your orchid will bloom all year round!

You can achieve repeated flowering from it if you know all the factors that contribute to this and follow a certain care regimen.

How to properly care for an orchid

Looking at a blooming orchid, many gardeners don’t even think about whether to buy this extraordinary plant or not. Of course, buy! But will it bloom just as well at home?

Everyone knows that an orchid is a rather capricious plant and requires meticulous care. You can achieve repeated flowering from it if you know all the factors that contribute to this and follow a certain care regimen. Then the orchid will bloom for 2 to 6 months. And some genera, like phalaenopsis or vanda, can bloom all year round.

For an orchid to bloom...

The frequency of orchid flowering depends on compliance with certain care rules. In order for a plant to bloom, you should remember 9 important conditions that contribute to this.

1. Find out the age of the orchid

If you bought a non-flowering plant, and it is in no hurry to please with flower shoots, perhaps it is still too young. Different types of orchids bloom at the age of 1.5 to 3 years.

To determine that an orchid is old enough, you need to count the number of shoots. An adult plant ready to flower should have from 5 to 8. If flowers appear on an orchid earlier, this is not always good. The fact is that a plant that is too young may not have enough strength to recover after flowering, and the orchid may die.

2. Don't move the potty

Many people know that moving is a real stress for an orchid. But this flower does not like even minor movements. The orchid reacts to its position in relation to the light. Therefore, if there is a need to rearrange a pot with a plant, it is necessary to place it with the same side to the light source as it was before. Also, do not move the orchid while watering. Movement adversely affects the growth of the flower, especially at the moment the peduncle appears.

3. Pay attention to the roots

As you know, orchid roots are actively involved in the process of photosynthesis, so it is important to ensure that they have enough light. Since it is not recommended to move the orchid again, it is worth taking care of the roots in advance. For example, instead of ceramic pots, it is better to use transparent plastic containers with plenty of drainage holes.

It is not recommended to use containers with corrugated walls for planting this flower, since its roots tend to grow to uneven surfaces. In addition, sharp edges and elements can injure the root system, which will harm the entire plant as a whole.

4. Take care of lighting

Sunlight is a very important factor affecting the flowering of an orchid. Without full daylight (10-12 hours a day), these plants will not bloom. Therefore, in autumn and winter, when there is very little natural light, flowers should be illuminated with lamps.

Phytolamps are special lamps designed to illuminate plants: they provide a lot of bright light without drying out the air around the flowers.

If an orchid produces a peduncle in autumn or winter, care should be taken to ensure that it does not die due to the short daylight hours. Without additional lighting in the dark season, the peduncle may stop developing or dry out. If it is not possible to illuminate the entire plant, it is enough to provide illumination only for the tip of the peduncle. The main thing is to make sure that neither it nor the plant itself gets hot.

5. Ensure acceptable temperature differences

The catalyst for flowering of many types of orchids is a slight difference between day and night temperatures. Therefore, for an orchid to bloom, the temperature at night must be 4-6°C lower than during the day. Of course, creating such conditions throughout the year can be problematic. But from late spring to early autumn, orchids can be kept outdoors, where the temperature difference is achieved naturally.

In cooler times, when flowers should already live at home, rooms with orchids need to be ventilated. Just do this very carefully, remembering that these plants are very afraid of drafts.

6. Water your orchid correctly

You need to water the orchid after the soil dries out - this will make it possible to avoid rotting of the roots. These requirements apply both in summer and winter and apply to both children and adult plants. However, there are some exceptions here. After the orchid has faded, watering should be reduced by about a month.

In nature, after flowering, orchids begin to set seeds, which should scatter in different directions for several kilometers. This is only possible during dry periods, but not during the rainy season. Therefore, it is necessary to provide the orchid with conditions that are as close to natural as possible - then the flower will grow healthy and bloom often.

Before and during flowering, the orchid requires more intense watering than usual. Further, during the dormant period, specimens with hard leaves and the presence of pseudobulbs should be watered according to the basic principle (after about 10-12 days).

7. Humidify the air around the plant

Another important condition for flowering is air humidity. If there is not enough of it, the orchid may stop growing or unopened buds and flowers may dry out prematurely.

To increase the humidity in the room where the orchid grows, you can place a plate of water next to the flower. Also, during very dry periods (when the heating is turned on in houses), the plant should be sprayed. Suitable humidity for orchids is 60% and above.

8. Choose the right fertilizers

To feed orchids, it is recommended to use formulations based on phosphorus and potassium, as they stimulate the appearance of flower buds. In addition, the use of such fertilizers ensures that the plant produces healthy and strong flowers. But it’s better not to get carried away with nitrogen-based fertilizing: this element, on the contrary, inhibits the development of flower stalks.

9. Don’t be afraid to “scare” the plant

Sometimes, to make an orchid bloom, it needs to be given a little stress. It happens that all the conditions for flowering are met, but the flower stubbornly refuses to shoot. This sometimes happens because the orchid is doing too well. In this case, the plant directs all its energy to the growth of green mass. One way to stimulate flowering is to “shock” the orchid a little: reduce watering or move the plant pot to a cooler place.

Dormant period in orchids

After flowering, the orchid enters a period of rest, when it begins to accumulate strength for a new flowering. Care at this time is no different from care during other periods. The flower still needs good watering, high humidity, sufficient lighting and regular prevention against diseases and pests.

As for fertilizing, their frequency and volume during the rest period should be reduced. If there is a need to replant an orchid, then the time to do this procedure is now, when the plant no longer blooms.

Replanting is necessary if roots are sticking out of the drainage hole, or the soil dries out quickly after watering. As a rule, the need for this procedure appears after 2-3 years.

Are orchids suitable for cutting?

What could be more beautiful than a bouquet of orchids? But these flowers do not live long, and not every species is suitable for cutting. Let's try to figure out how to extend the life of an epiphytic bouquet and which orchids to choose.

Phalaenopsis, cymbidiums and paphiopedilums can stand in a vase and retain freshness and aroma for several weeks (and sometimes even a month). Other orchids risk not standing for even an hour, literally withering before our eyes.

If you purchase cut orchids, look first at the petals and sepals. They should be shiny, as if covered with wax, and hard - then the orchid will last a long time.

How to extend the life of a bouquet of orchids

If the flowers were brought from the store, then their cuts need to be updated. The stems should be cut at an angle. It is recommended to carry out the procedure under running water. It is advisable to update sections every 2-3 days.

The water for keeping cut orchids should be soft and clean: you can use boiled or filtered water. It needs to be updated periodically by adding fresh water.

Cut orchids, as well as potted home orchids, are afraid of too high and very low temperatures. It is also recommended to protect them from drafts and bright sun. published econet.ru

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The new arrow broke

1. Do not leave a broken arrow on the plant, do not glue it with tape, adhesive tape, or bandage it.
2. Cut with sharp and sterile scissors 1–2 cm above the dormant bud. There is a high probability that a lateral peduncle will form from the dormant bud.
3. If the peduncle breaks at the root, then you need to cut it off completely, trying to leave a small stump 1-2 cm high.
4. Sprinkle the cut area with cinnamon or crushed activated carbon.
5. A broken arrow can be placed in water, changing it periodically. An orchid can begin to bloom this way.

To prevent such cases from reoccurring, it is necessary to provide the plant with a habitat in which the likelihood of causing mechanical damage to the flower will be reduced to zero. Since plastic pots are quite unstable, it is advisable to place them in pots that are more stable: glass or ceramic.

How to trim the roots of an orchid

How to trim the roots of an orchid photo

An orchid has two types of roots:

• Aerial shoots are modified shoots of the plant’s root system that serve to additionally absorb moisture. They should be pruned only if they rot (caused by excess moisture) or die (may be a sign of insufficient watering).
• Root system - pruning is most often carried out during transplantation. Dead roots are removed with sharp pruning shears, and the cut is treated with crushed charcoal. Roots can dry out due to insufficient watering or overuse of fertilizers, which causes chemical burns.

If there are not many dried root shoots, the cause may be physiological reasons - natural death (this happens from time to time). Such roots are removed when replanting the plant. Most often, this procedure is carried out after the end of the flowering period and pruning of the peduncle.

You should not rush to trim the roots; some of them can sometimes be restored:

• the plant must be removed from the pot, shaken off the substrate;
• rinse the roots well in warm water, to soften which you can add half a teaspoon of baking soda;
• the plant can be left in the same water for 20-30 minutes, perhaps some roots will come to life;
• Only those shoots that have completely dried out need to be trimmed.

Pruning the roots of an orchid must be done correctly, following a number of rules:

• the pruning tool must be sharp, injured root tissues will become a source of bacterial infection, and the plant may become sick;
• A pruner is best suited for this purpose;
• before the procedure, instruments intended for pruning must be treated with any antiseptic (most often alcohol is used at home);
• the root shoot is removed to a healthy place;
• the cut must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal (activated carbon can be used);
• if the roots are severely damaged, they can be removed completely, so there is a chance to save the plant.

When the root system is completely trimmed, the orchid must be placed in water; it is recommended to change it every day. Tap water is not used; it must first be settled and softened.

New root shoots usually appear no earlier than after 60 days. When the roots grow (at least 5-6 cm), the orchid can be planted in a pot with special soil.

Possible problems

It often happens that the arrow is released, but does not develop further, but seems to freeze in place. Or another option is possible: the peduncle has grown, but has begun to dry out. The reasons for such phenomena are directly related to the fulfillment of the basic requirements for the maintenance of an orchid.

• improper lighting;
• excess or lack of fertilizers;
• problems with the root system;
• over- or under-watering;
• infectious diseases and pests;
• incorrect temperature.

Basics of care

The long-awaited moment has come when your orchid has released a peduncle - how to care for it in order to enjoy beautiful flowering for longer?

Before the flowering bud awakens

The flower shoot (shoot) of an orchid consists of dormant buds (meristems) and flower buds . If flower buds reproduce buds, then dormant meristems are in a resting phase until flowering has ended. From this meristem both a new shoot and a baby can be formed.

Care begins with a solution to the faded peduncle . The decision on the flower stalk is made individually by the grower, depending on the condition of the plant.

So, what to do with the peduncle after flowering is complete:

• remove completely. In this case, the plant will not expend strength and energy on maintaining its life support, but will direct its forces to the reproduction of leaves and the growth of the root system. Removing a flower-bearing arrow will make it possible to quickly force a new one. Also, the aesthetic perception of the plant will be much better. The downside is that there will be no children and this species will no longer be able to reproduce;

A dried peduncle can be cut off completely.

• do not touch. If the tip is green, there is a high likelihood of further growth and flowering. Also, a strong plant with a good supply of energy is capable of throwing out new flower stalks and providing quite lush flowering. Unfortunately, such growth or the appearance of new shoots is not always possible;
• cut off partially . The most common method among gardeners. Trim the peduncle, leaving dormant buds, and wait until they wake up. There is a high probability of a new shoot or baby emerging upon awakening. A negative factor is the length of waiting, as it takes away the strength of the plant.

Important! It has been noticed that in a cool and dry room there is a high probability of flowering shoots appearing, and in warm and humid air, mostly children are formed.

Basic care consists of reducing watering and fertilizing . Lighting should be present in full, but without direct sunlight.

If necessary, transplant the orchid into a new container and a new high-quality substrate, removing and treating damaged areas and roots.

The temperature should be maintained between 15 and 30° C , with good ventilation of the root part.

During the ejection of the arrow

The awakening of the buds, releasing new shoots, coincides with the phase of active growth. Under natural conditions, this period occurs during the rainy season, when air temperature and humidity rise. Rains, washing tree trunks, drive moisture with nutrients (humus) to the roots surrounding the tree, thereby giving strength for growth and life.

Creating at least an approximate microclimate during the period of awakening of the kidneys is necessary in living conditions:

• slightly reduce the lighting by shading the window, thereby protecting the orha from direct sunlight;
• provide a temperature of 25 to 30° C;
• ambient humidity is about 60-70%;
• Fertilize weekly with complex mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.

Orchids at home need to create optimal conditions.

An important component is the error in recognizing a new arrow. Often, inexperienced gardeners confuse the release of a new shoot with the formation of a new aerial root and resort to caring for it.

Firstly, the peduncle in most cases appears from the axil of the leaves and its tip is pointed, in contrast to the rounded one of the aerial root.

The shoot stretches upward towards the light , and the root stretches horizontally or downwards towards the soil. Particular attention should be paid to this.

During the period of bud appearance

During the budding period, an important component is the creation of a microclimate that promotes the formation of buds. First of all, this concerns:

• growing place. It must be permanent. During the period of laying and formation of buds, the location of the flower cannot be changed. Even turning the plant can negatively affect (cause stress) the formation;
• illumination The light should be diffused and abundant. The amount of daylight should be no less than 10 and no more than 14 hours per day;
• temperature . Supported depending on the orchid species. But a difference of 4-5° C between day and night temperatures activates the formation of buds in all species;
• watering. Watering is carried out moderately and abundantly, preventing moisture from stagnating in the root system. Excess moisture significantly slows down the budding process and leads to root rot and various fungal diseases;
• feeding _ During the formation of buds, a one-time potassium-phosphorus fertilizing with fertilizer complexes is carried out. An important feature of fertilizing during this period is to wash the plant in the pot under the shower a week after applying fertilizer.

Advice! In powerful, vibrant orchids, the peduncle sometimes cannot withstand the load of buds and flowers. Therefore, it should be supported with special ties to bamboo (or other) supports.

How to care?

In order for an orchid to send out its arrow and enjoy its flowering for a long time, you need to provide it with comfortable living conditions. To do this you should:

• Maintain the room temperature in summer: +22-25ºС, in winter +16-18ºС.
• Place the pot in the sun, but not under scorching rays. In summer, it is recommended to shade the window.
• Maintain humidity during the growing season within 50-60% with a household humidifier, and for releasing a peduncle - 30% - 40%.
• Ventilate the room regularly.
• Water once a week; in between, the soil should dry out completely. To release the peduncle, the “dry” period can be extended.
• Use warm and purified water.
• Fertilize orchids with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.

The moment the orchid's arrow appears, real joy comes to the gardener. But it is important to remember that the key to the future successful flowering of a plant is compliance with the basic requirements for the conditions of keeping the epiphyte, especially at the moment when the plant is most vulnerable.

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What to do to

The arrow has not stopped developing

There is only one answer - to maintain optimal care conditions and, first of all, lighting. if it has decreased due to natural reasons, it is necessary to introduce additional lighting using special lamps for plants. Watering should be reduced compared to the usual regime. But you shouldn’t dry the flower to a desert state. The temperature should be within the range necessary for the vegetative growth of the plant. Don’t forget to apply fertilizers on time and according to all the rules. By following these rules, the plant will definitely please your grower with beautiful tropical flowers.

The orchid released several flower stalks at the same time

The plant cannot produce more than three flower stalks. The most common option is that the orchid produces one shoot, which blooms. Several peduncles are possible in an adult flower with an extensive leaf rosette. But this is stress for the plant and sometimes after such abundant flowering there is a loss of strength in orchid plants. But in our conditions, which are often created even by experienced flower growers, more than 2 peduncles do not appear on flowers.

Succinic acid for orchids

Often, beginning flower growers who have just purchased an orchid and have not enjoyed the flowering ask questions about what to feed the orchid to make it bloom. You can help in flowering with the help of a wide variety of fertilizers and complementary foods.

The properties of some of them are aimed specifically at stimulating flowering, by accelerating the process of filling and dissolving buds. But we should talk separately about succinic acid for orchids , whose effects can be noticed after just a few weeks.

Succinic acid has a general strengthening effect on the orchid root system and also promotes the formation of new weaves. This product is used by florists in specialized stores to speed up the growth of the plant and improve its flowering.

Flowering time can be significantly increased by treating the leaves and flowers themselves with succinic acid extract. Such actions can be attributed to a cunning marketing move, which customers are almost never aware of.

That is why you can observe such a nuisance as the rapid shedding of petals immediately after purchase - the orchid simply does not have enough of the usual nutrients. For the same reason, next year the plant may not bloom at all or may significantly reduce the number of flower stalks.

Use of succinic acid

Succinic acid is diluted according to the instructions. If you purchased the product in tablets, then one tablet should be diluted in half a liter of clean running water. If you purchase powder, for the same amount of liquid there is only a pinch of the bulk composition (on the tip of a knife).

The mixture is thoroughly shaken and the root system and leaves are treated with a regular spray bottle. Some florists direct the sprinkler at the flowers themselves - this helps improve their growth, increases the duration of flowering, and even gives a certain richness to the color of the petals.

The remaining water can be used for further watering of orchids. It should be noted that the diluted composition does not have an expiration date. However, it is better to use it in the first week after preparation.

Precautionary measures

Succinic acid is non-toxic and absolutely harmless to humans, so it can be used to treat other indoor plants that have withered and refuse to bloom again. But it should be remembered that even acid may be useless in stimulating flowering if the plant itself is already quite old. Excessive use of acid can cause the death of the plant.

Using succinic acid, video:

How to properly care for a phalaenopsis orchid. Dissolving Succinic Acid

How to make an orchid bloom?

1. Apply a stimulator for the growth and flowering of the orchid. This product is usually sold at a flower shop or flower salon. You need to spray with this preparation in the morning, and water the orchid once a week, adding drops of four products to the water.
2. Try to deceive the plant by causing a mini-drought in a separate pot of phalaenopsis. This is a good effective method and it works even when the flower is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers.
3. Imitation of the “rainy season”. Try to provoke a reaction in the plant by watering it daily with warm water at temperatures above 35 degrees. After four days of watering, the action should be stopped, and after two weeks it should be resumed. After two weeks of this tactic, you will need to return to your normal watering schedule.

Tips from personal experience (video):

Features of orchid flowering

• It should be remembered that the orchid begins to bloom only after reaching two years;
• When planting an orchid as a baby plant, you should wait until six airy leaves appear;
• It is also important to know that the orchid loves tranquility and gets used to one place. Therefore, it is not recommended to move a flower from one place to another, either in a calm state or in bloom;
• Phalaenopsis does not tolerate transplantation - the flowers often die.

By following all the above rules, you will help the flower express itself in that unique bloom for which we love it so much, and at the same time you will receive a lot of aesthetic pleasure.

Create comfortable conditions for orchid flowering

So let's start with the basics. We'll talk about proper watering, creating a light regime and the right temperature.

Watering

Let us remember that the orchid is negatively affected by the abundance of moisture. Both in the tropics, where the rainy period was followed by a dry period, so in our conditions, abundant, uniform watering is considered unacceptable. In this case, moisture only stimulates the growth of the flower foliage, having a negative effect on the peduncles.

At the time when the orchid fades, you should establish a period of rest, rest from water consumption. Phalaenopsis are unpretentious - they can feed on moisture from the atmosphere and reserves from the root system for a long time. At this time, it is recommended to spray the plant instead of watering.

Proper watering is carried out as follows:

The perforated (with holes) pot containing the orchid is placed in the prepared bowl for 50–80 minutes. During this time, the flower is saturated with moisture. The regularity of watering is determined by the degree of humidity in the apartment. The lower the humidity, the more water treatments for the plant. One of the main rules, following which an orchid blooms, is the presence of the required amount of water in the root system. An indicator of proper watering is the orchid roots, which take on a soft green tint.

Light mode

The lack of normal light has a primary effect on the growth of the flower, and even more so on its flowering. If there is a lack of natural light (north side of the apartment, obstacles in the form of houses that do not allow light to enter the windows), installation of lamps with phytolamps is required. The daylight hours of an orchid should last at least 10 hours of light. It is advisable to use additional lighting during the autumn-winter season.

Temperature

In a city apartment it is impossible to achieve the difference in day and night temperatures that exists in nature. But it is still necessary to try to achieve the optimal desired regime.

If conditions permit, you need to ventilate your home. The resulting freshness will refresh your pet and help reduce the room temperature. It is not advisable to ventilate a flower by placing it on a balcony or loggia, especially at night - the temperature difference can be critical.

The most optimal temperature imbalance is a five degree difference between day and night. In winter, you can use the option of placing the plant closer to the heating radiator and back.

Fertilizers

All the beneficial substances and vitamins that the orchid receives from the soil in its native land, and which are lacking in our land, must somehow be replenished. To do this you need to use fertilizers.

Mineral supplements should be introduced, which include phosphorus, potassium and magnesium. The use of nitrogen fertilizer will have to be kept to a minimum. Feeding the flower should be done at least once every ten days.

Conditions must be created in the root system to ensure photosynthesis of this important plant organ. You should also avoid sawdust, bark, and especially manure in the soil.

If all of the above conditions are neglected, all efforts to obtain a peduncle from an orchid will be useless. If you do everything correctly, but the capricious overseas guest still does not bloom, then you can use several more proven methods.

How to distinguish a peduncle from stems and roots?

Beginning flower growers always look forward to the appearance of the first peduncle, because this is the first sign of future flowering. But it also happens that flower stalks do not appear for a long time. This usually happens if the flower does not have enough light. Move your pet to where there are more of them and the problem will go away.

Another difficulty that debutants will have to face is the certain similarity of germinating flower stalks and aerial roots. Indeed, at the beginning of development they are a little similar. But there are still differences:

• the roots are already slightly inclined downwards in the initial phase of their development;
• the peduncle arrow has a uniform color, and the root first has a bluish tint, and at the tip it is light green;
• the peduncle is covered with small scales, from which buds will later grow;
• The peduncle has a pointed end, and the root ends in a somewhat blunt-shaped process.

IMPORTANT! It should, however, be noted that in some varieties of orchids these differences are barely noticeable, which makes even experienced gardeners make mistakes. All that remains is to wait for the shoots to mature.

In any case, the appearance of these formations indicates that your pet feels good in the new place, and you are caring for it correctly.

How long and when does an orchid bloom?

Many beginners sound the alarm in vain if their orchid does not bloom. In order not to worry in vain, you need to know at least a little about the biological rhythms of this beauty. For example, you planted a baby, then flowering in this case can occur in no less than 2 years. Well, if a young orchid has produced 6 leaves and does not bloom for a long time, then you can already worry.

After an orchid is planted in new soil, it takes at least 6 months to form a root system, and only after the root system is formed do aerial roots and leaves begin to develop.

During the period of leaf formation, you need to be more attentive to your plant, since it is during this period that the buds of flower stalks begin to form. During this period, it is important to fertilize.

As for fertilizing, choose fertilizers that contain little or no nitrogen. In order for the buds of the peduncle to develop normally, elements such as phosphorus, magnesium and potassium are needed. But nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass. By the way, if you are overzealous with overfeeding, this can also be the reason that your orchid does not bloom.

Many people are concerned about the question of how long an orchid blooms, or how long it takes for an orchid to bloom. There is no definite answer here, everything is purely individual, and also depends on the conditions and how the hostess treats her.

Some orchids bloom once a year, but flowering lasts several months. My friend’s favorite bloomed for 11 months.

It also all depends on the type of orchid, since there are varieties that can bloom 2 or more times a year. In any case, it is important to give the plant a rest, since flowering takes a lot of energy.

What to do if your orchid does not bloom for a long time, for example, a year or 2 years. Of course, this is not normal, but I hope you found the reason for this phenomenon above. Now we’ll talk about how to make an orchid bloom at home.

Possible plant problems

No ornamental plant is without problems, and the orchid is no exception. It can be visited by pests (spider mites are a frequent guest; when the air in the room is too dry, aphids are often found on this crop). Orchids also have specific diseases; the peduncle can also be affected.

What to do if the flower stalk dries out?

The arrows that the orchid produces do not last forever and die off every year. If this process occurs after flowering, it is natural and there is no need to be afraid of it. It’s another matter when the peduncle begins to dry out before or during flowering. It is not difficult to notice this condition: the arrow begins to change green to brown and gradually fades. If the cause is correctly identified, this decline can be stopped.

The peduncle may dry out due to the following factors:

• the cause may be either too high or too low air humidity;
• the same can be said about lighting;
• the dosage of any fertilizing should be strictly observed, the plant quickly reacts to an incorrect ratio of substances added to the soil;
• sudden hypothermia during ventilation of the room can provoke the release of buds;
• In winter, the peduncle may be damaged due to contact with cold window glass.

IMPORTANT! In winter, the hanging roots of this ornamental crop may suffer due to overheating if there are heating radiators nearby. And overheating of the roots, in turn, will lead to drying out of other parts of the plant.

Sometimes a drying flower requires a simple transplant. During this process, you need to carefully examine the roots, remove rotting or diseased parts, and replace the soil. Then we can hope that in the future the arrows will appear healthy and will not dry out until the end of flowering.