Caring for Decembrist during flowering: how to water and care?

We will not be mistaken if we say that most indoor plants are dormant in winter and complement the overall picture of nature’s rest during this period. Fortunately, the Decembrist flower is a happy exception to the rule. But you also need to be able to care for him.

The real name of this plant, as well as the genus of the same name, is Schlumbergera. And Decembrist belongs to the Cactus family, and is an epiphytic form, and some species even belong to succulents. That is why the opinion that this crop can survive without water and fertilizing for a long time has good reason.

However, the fact that Decembrist belongs to epiphytes and cacti does not mean that you can stop caring for the plant altogether, and it will continue to bloom annually and for a long time. Without proper care, flowering may not occur. Moreover, this culture blooms at a strictly defined time. This is why it got its name, which in our latitudes has even become more popular than the biological one.

There are also several other, less common names for the Decembrist flower. Among them are “Christmas cactus”, “December”, “Rozhdestvennik”. Decembrist received its biological name thanks to the French botanist Frederic Schlumberger, who once grafted the plant onto a classic prickly cactus called Pereskia spinosa. As a result, the Decembrist not only did not die, but also bloomed magnificently - this was how the epiphyte was proven to belong specifically to the Cactus family, and the genus is often found in the literature under the name Zygocactus. By the way, in its historical homeland, the Decembrist is considered a plant symbol of the New Year.

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The timing of flowering for different species of the Schlumbergera genus may vary - therefore, it is better to check information about exactly when a particular plant will bloom by looking at the accompanying tag, or check with the seller. But most often the plant blooms in the cold season.

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The main and most reliable sign associated with the Decembrist flower is that by its bloom you can track weather changes. Thus, the appearance of buds on the Decembrist usually foreshadows the imminent onset of frost. If the plant suddenly dropped its buds, and the care conditions were not violated, then with a high degree of probability we can say that warming is coming outside the window.

Decembrist flower - how to care for it at home?

Flora delights the eye with a variety of plant species of various colors, sizes and bizarre shapes.
One of the most unusual representatives is the South American cactus, which has an interesting name - Decembrist, or zigocactus. This is a very special plant that destroys the idea of what a cactus is, since the specimen described is not very friendly with sunny weather and loves water very much.

It is thanks to its specificity that the Decembrist deserves attention and a place on the windowsill, which is the topic of this article, providing all the necessary information for home breeding of the “foreign guest”.

Why does the Decembrist have limp leaves?

Despite the fact that all plants sold have already been adapted and bred to be as resistant as possible, regardless of the conditions, a frequent problem is a change in the condition of the leaves - they seem to lose moisture, become soft and lethargic, as if they are about to wither completely.

Most often this happens during the heating season, when the radiators dry out the air greatly, and the plants on the windowsill invariably suffer from this. High air humidity is important for the Decembrist, since this cactus comes from tropical forests.

The solution to the problem of leaf lethargy caused by dry air is sought only in methods to increase this indicator. So, the above-ground part can be frequently sprayed with water, or a tray with wet pebbles can be placed next to the pot.

Why do the buds fall off?

Typically, the Christmas tree begins to produce buds in November, and lush flowering begins in December. However, it often happens that, having successfully begun the flowering process, the cactus sheds its buds. This unpleasant event occurs for several reasons.

The first is changing the location of the pot, since zygocactus reacts heavily to a change in its usual place, sometimes even frequent unfolding of the pot ends badly. Low air humidity, excessive watering, low air temperature, temperature changes - all this can lead to the dropping of buds.

It is worth remembering that flowering is the most sensitive and delicate period in the life cycle of a plant, therefore, to maintain it, it is necessary to show maximum attention to the conditions of detention

What to do if Decembrist does not bloom?

The flowering of zygocactus is very beautiful, and almost everyone grows this plant just to enjoy this wonderful event once a year. However, quite often it happens that the flowers simply do not appear, and the expected lush flowering does not occur. If this happens, then it is necessary to reconsider the conditions of detention, because the lack of flowering can be caused by the following factors:

the cactus did not “feel” the onset of this period due to stable environmental conditions

To awaken the plant, from the end of September it needs to be placed in a cooler place and watering reduced, and in November returned to normal conditions with enough light - then the cactus will begin to prepare to release buds; when the plant was supposed to be preparing for flowering, the care conditions were incorrect - insufficient watering, low humidity, little light; flowering can begin only on one side, and this happens due to uneven lighting; the soil should always be well watered, but it is important to avoid stagnation of moisture, otherwise the roots will rot, and then there will be no talk of flowering at all.. In the question of how to make the Decembrist bloom at home, it is important to take into account the specifics of the reason that led to the emergence of such a problem

When the cause is eliminated, the process of bud formation will also improve, and due to the unpretentiousness of the plant, it is usually enough just to strictly follow all care recommendations

In the question of how to make Decembrist bloom at home, it is important to take into account the specifics of the reason that led to the emergence of such a problem. When the cause is eliminated, the process of bud formation will also improve, and due to the unpretentiousness of the plant, it is usually enough just to strictly follow all care recommendations

Photos of varieties of the Decembrist flower

The Decembrist flower is familiar to many and popular, numerous signs are associated with it and it has a decorative function.

When choosing a specimen for your home, it is important to know that there are many varieties of it, which differ, in particular, in the nature of their flowering. Photos depicting different types of plants will help you choose.

March 18, 2022 – life-sup

How does improper moisture threaten the plant?

The root system of the Decembrist is very sensitive to environmental conditions and, if not properly cared for, begins to rot. Basic mistakes in caring for Christmas trees:

watering with cold water;
excessive soil moisture at low temperatures and adding a solution with a high fertilizer content.

If improperly cared for, the leaves of Schlumbegera lose their green color, become lethargic, the buds fall off and the plant most often dies.

The first signs of plant wilting:

yellowing and wrinkling of leaves;
softening of part of the plant trunk and its blackening;
falling buds;
the condition of the soil is hard, dried, cracked;
the general appearance of the Decembrist becomes unattractive.

To bring the cactus back to life, it must be transplanted into fresh soil and into a new pot. Pre-rinse the Decembrist roots under warm water. If rotten areas are found on the root system, they must be cut off and treated with charcoal. The first time after the procedure, stop watering the plant for several days. To prevent the Decembrist from losing its attractiveness, it is better not to make mistakes when caring for this type of cactus.

In conclusion, we can say that the Decembrist is an extraordinary plant that requires special attention and careful care. If you follow the care recommendations and follow all the rules, then Schlumbergera will amaze with its juiciness, beauty and lush flowering.

How to feed the Decembrist at home so that it blooms

Due to the fact that Decembrist belongs to the genus of cactus plants, it needs special feeding that is gentle on the roots. Succulents do not tolerate concentrated fertilizers. If it is not possible to purchase special fertilizer for them, you can use fertilizer for ordinary indoor plants, reducing its concentration by half. The Decembrist responds gratefully to feeding with folk remedies. Such homemade fertilizers cannot cause harm, but they can nourish the plant and improve the composition of the soil.

Folk remedies

Feeding home flowers using folk remedies has become very popular. On forums on the Internet, flower growers discuss the results of using this or that non-standard fertilizer and share with each other the features of its preparation. Fans of the Decembrist recommend using the following types of feeding for him:

Wood ash

Fertilizer can be applied dry or pre-dissolved in water. To prepare the fertilizer, add 2 tablespoons of ash to 1 liter of water and leave for several hours. A nutrient solution can provide the plant with a set of microelements in an easily digestible form. This is an excellent potash fertilizer that can be used during bud formation and flowering.

Hydrogen peroxide

By saturating the earth with oxygen, the product strengthens the root system, promotes the growth of Decembrist and its flowering. To prepare the fertilizer, you need to dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of peroxide in a liter of water. Fertilizer is applied during the active growing season once a week by applying it at the root.

Boric acid

The product is prepared in a 0.1 percent concentration and is used to spray leaves. The use of fertilizing stimulates the growth of shoots and promotes the formation of more buds. Recommended for spraying Decembrist leaves during budding and flowering.

Tea infusion

This remedy is often used by experienced gardeners who already know about its effect on increasing the number of buds. In their opinion, no expensive fertilizer will give such a wonderful result. An infusion of tea can cause flowering even in those plants that stubbornly refuse to bloom for several years. To fertilize, brew regular black tea with boiling water, let it brew, and use the tea leaves for watering instead of plain water.

Fresh apple infusion

Schlumbergera is grateful for the use of fertilizing from fresh sour apples. To prepare the fertilizer, cut 2-3 green fruits into small slices and add 500 ml of water. The fertilizing should infuse for 2 days. After this, apple water is used for irrigation. This fertilizer is completely harmless and can be used at any stage of plant development. The frequency of feeding is also not limited in any way.

Complex fertilizer

Special fertilizers for cacti and succulents are good because they contain the entire set of nutrients in the required concentration. When using them, you should not deviate from the manufacturer’s recommendations; prepare the solution strictly according to the instructions. Schlumbergera has sensitive roots and too high doses of minerals can cause harm instead of benefit. Most often, Decembrists are used to feed:

fertilizer "Ideal";
liquid complexes for flowering plants;
all kinds of fertilizers for cacti.

Among other things, the size of the pot is important for good Christmas tree flowering. The container should not be too cramped, otherwise the soil will begin to deplete very quickly. But the Decembrist does not need a large pot, otherwise the flower will begin to grow green mass to the detriment of flowering.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=SdiEoVv_Ho8

What water to use

Tap water is not the best solution for watering Christmas trees, since they are very sensitive to the temperature of the liquid and its composition. In this case, it is advisable to prepare rain, melt or well-filtered water that will not form sediment on the walls or bottom of the pot. In extreme cases, you can use tap water, but only after settling for several days.

For organic nutrition with the addition of fertilizers, settled aquarium water and mineral supplements are ideal. In any case, the liquid temperature should be within +22…+25°C, since at lower values it will not be possible to avoid rotting of the Christmas tree root system.

How to properly water Decembrist seasonally

The main task of Schlumbergera owners is its flowering. This can only be achieved by observing the cyclical development of the plant and following the rules of care for the corresponding stage. The regularity of watering also depends on the stage.

December - January (blooming)

It is important to maintain strength for long flowering, moderate watering in the morning, after 3 - 5 days, supplemented with fertilizer. The substrate must be moist all the time

May - August (active growing season)

It is important to provide conditions for the accumulation of vitality, water moderately, in the evening, after the top layer of soil has dried by 2 - 3 cm, supplement with fertilizing, spraying, and arrange a shower. At this time, the Decembrist is transplanted, propagated

After replanting, resume watering as the substrate dries; the next fertilizing is only after a month.

September - October (budding)

The period of bud setting. Reduce moisture to a minimum (once every 2 weeks). No spraying. Hardening is carried out by lowering the temperature; if the soil becomes very wet, frostbite of the roots may occur.

November

The appearance of buds, resume regular morning moderate watering with warm water, fertilizing, spraying.

By following simple recommendations, growing Schlumbergera will not cause any trouble, and timely lush flowering will bring a lot of positive emotions.

Water: how much is required for irrigation?

If we were to write a section for the book “Decembrist Flower: How to Care at Home,” then the chapter on watering could be briefly formulated as follows: watering should not turn into flour either for the plant or for the owner who is dealing with its consequences. Disentangling in the literal sense! The “transfused” Decembrist can:

discard buds and flowers;
stop growing;
rot

Watering is carried out depending on the degree of soil moisture. In winter, this is done no more than once a week, during the rest season - no more than once a month. In summer - keeping the soil moist. Constantly! It is better to water with “soft”, settled water.

Spraying can only be carried out in a room that is only sufficiently warm; during the period of lowering the temperature, which is necessary for the success of flowering, the plant should not be further cooled by spraying water over it.

By reducing watering from August, the plant is gradually brought to the season of color gain; the growth of green mass should completely stop by this time.

Watering the Decembrist in the fall

Autumn for the Decembrist is a time of rest and the formation of buds.

Watering at this time becomes minimal; you can even get by with just spraying. And feeding is canceled altogether. The dormant period lasts from mid-September to mid-November.

In a too hot or cold room, the Decembrist may not form buds. The optimal temperature during this period: during the day no higher than 21 degrees, at night – from 7 to 15.

As soon as the first buds become visible, the flower gradually begins to be watered more often and can be fed with fertilizer for flowering indoor plants.

Feeding

Mineral mixtures twice a month are the easiest option to feed the Decembrist so that it is guaranteed to bloom. Complex fertilizers, which include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. Once a year, before flowering, it is recommended to feed the Decembrist plant with organic liquid fertilizer.

There is a small secret that stimulates the zygocactus to bloom and set buds. This is pinching young cuttings, which in the spring begin to grow vigorously at the ends of the leaves. In this case, energy is directed not to the development of leaves, but to flowering and the formation of seeds for the survival of the species.

There are situations when, due to improper heavy feeding, the plant gets burnt to the roots and begins to die. To save it, they pinch off all the new regrown segments and root them, and draw conclusions for themselves based on errors in feeding.

Video: Watering the Decembrist at home

Common diseases

Violation of the basic rules of care will cause the development of various diseases. Most often, Decembrist is affected by fungal infections - pythium, fusarium and late blight . Dangerous diseases require immediate attention, otherwise the plant may die.

For treatment, it is recommended to use antifungal drugs. These include Vitaros, Topaz, Maxim and Mikol. It is also important to transplant the affected flower into a new container with fresh nutrient substrate.

Decembrist, which even a beginner can care for in winter, pleases with its long and abundant flowering. The plant decorates the room and gives a joyful mood at a time when other indoor flowers are in the dormant phase.

Decembrist photo description

A bushy perennial indoor plant, named by the people “Decembrist”, either in honor of the name of the month, or for the “obstinacy of character”, blooming in December, contrary to the natural laws of the northern hemisphere, the peak of flowering occurs at Christmas, for which it has another name “Christmas cactus". Homeland - coastal tropical Brazil.

In the wild, it lives on trunks, in tangles of tree branches (epiphytes), in crevices of high-mountain rocks (lithophytes), where, despite monsoon rains, water does not linger. Having a meager root system, it feeds on organic products that accumulate in stone cracks and depressions in the bark. Hiding in shady thickets, it is saturated from the moist air with the help of light above-ground roots growing between the segments (cladodes) that make up the stems of the plant, hence the name “forest cactus”.

The succulent ability to accumulate moisture places them in the cactus family, which, oddly enough, does not have a single spine (modified leaves) and the special structure of the annual growths served as another name “zygocactus”. Decembrist does not have leaves; mistaking flat segments for leaves makes a big mistake.

Stems:

drooping, branched, reaching a length of up to 50 cm;
consist of numerous flat cladodes (annual growths).

Cladodes:

have a bright green tint;
serrated edge with modified areoles (lateral buds) between the serrations;
growth buds or buds are located at the top of the segment.

Flowers of outlandish beauty that bloom at the beginning of summer, endowed with a white or red color, an elongated tube of pointed multi-tiered petals, with a curved end, long stamens extending far beyond the corolla. Hummingbirds, drinking the moisture collected by the flower with their thin nose, simultaneously pollinate it.

The centuries-old struggle for existence has developed an amazing skill for the survival of the species - reproduction is possible even in one segment. Apparently, thanks to this ability, the Decembrist managed to survive on the other side of the equator.

For more than two centuries, zygocactus has been delighting with its bright colors in winter, preserving all the properties of natural growth, presenting a variety of possibilities to breeders. The name used in scientific circles - Schlumbergera - the plant received in honor of the French botanist collector Frederic Schlumberger (1823 - 1893), who first proved that it belongs to the cactus family.

The modern variety of Schlumberger includes more than a hundred varieties, differing in:

size, shape and color of cladodes;
shades, size of flowers;
quantity, terryness of petals.

There are varieties with erect stems, ampelous; low-growing and shoots reaching up to 1 meter. Despite so many different varieties, simplicity and stability of care remains, including watering.

Features of the Decembrist flowering period

When the buds open, the Christmas tree bush is covered with bilaterally symmetrical flowers of various colors (most often lilac, red, white, pink, purple, orange). The flowers are located at the ends of the jagged shoots of the plant.

In apartment conditions, the plant's buds are not very large, although in its homeland, in the tropics of Brazil, flowers can be up to 8 cm in size. Without proper care, it is impossible to achieve the blooming of inflorescences in a crop. This will help by preparing the zygocactus for this period and creating optimal conditions for it.

Did you know? Christmas tree is a long-lived plant, because with proper care, the crop, being in one place in an apartment, can safely grow and develop for up to 20 years, and in a greenhouse or botanical garden - up to 150.

Top dressing

If all of the above rules are taken into account, and the Decembrist does not bloom, then it is most likely a lack of nutrients, so it needs to be fed. Feeding begins in the spring and ends in early autumn. In summer, the amount of nutrients applied is doubled. The best folk recipes are:

Sugar - This is the easiest and most affordable way to feed. Thanks to the energy that glucose provides, the plant can spend it on flowering. Dissolve two tablespoons of sugar in a liter jar of water and water the soil. In parallel with it, it is necessary to add any EM drug that will replenish the amount of carbon dioxide. Otherwise, mold may grow in the ground. Sweet water should be watered no more than once a month.
Ash - It is added to the ground when replanting a house plant. If replanting is not planned, then dissolve two tablespoons of ordinary wood ash in a liter jar of water, leave for about three hours, and then water it. You can simply sprinkle the ground with ash and pour water on top. The useful minerals contained in the ash will help the Decembrist recover. It is especially useful if the flower lacks potassium. This can be seen by the yellowed leaves.
Boric acid - If you spray with a solution of boric acid, the number of inflorescences will increase. To do this, 0.1% boric acid is dissolved in a liter of liquid. Spraying is carried out in December and during flowering. It is undesirable to perform this procedure in direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves may get burned.
Diluted mullein - They are fed with it six months after transplantation, but you need to remember that it accelerates the onset of budding, so it is not added in the fall so that the flower has time to rest. To feed, one-fifth of the mullein is dissolved in a liter jar of liquid. It can be replaced with bird droppings.
Hydrogen peroxide - Thanks to it, the root system of the flower will be able to receive enough oxygen and be healthy. To do this, dissolve half a tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide in two glasses of water. Water once a week. It is not advisable to spray greens with this solution.
Citrus fruits - Take the peel of any citrus fruit, chop it finely, then pour boiling water over it. Leave for about a day, filter and water once a week, diluting in advance with the same amount of water.
Apples – This requires only tart green apples. They need to be cut into small pieces, filled with water and left to infuse for about two days. Then water twice a week. This tincture can be used to water a houseplant at any time, even during the dormant period. It only brings benefits.
Tea - This is the most unusual and effective way to achieve the beginning of budding in a plant. To do this, brew a glass of black tea leaves in a three-liter jar of boiling water. Then they wait until it cools down, after which they water it twice a week. No expensive product can compare with tea leaves.
Yeast - They can replace almost all chemical fertilizers due to the large number of useful substances contained in them. Dissolve two tablespoons of dry yeast in one liter of warm water and add a tablespoon of sugar. Leave for about two hours. Then dilute with five liters of water and water the Decembrist.

Features of care

Since the Decembrist is not very similar to a cactus, caring for it has its own characteristics. It is important to choose a place for the flower so that the sun's rays do not burn the greenery - this can cause it to die. Home plant lovers recommend:

Do not place zygocactus on the south side. Western is also not suitable, because the intensity of light leads to the death of leaves.

As soon as possible, take the flower outside, onto a balcony, onto a terrace where there is fresh air.

It is recommended to give the cactus a shower. In summer, ordinary water from a hose will do; in winter, it can be sprayed with a spray bottle; you can put it in the bathroom and wash the leaves, just cover the soil so that no water gets in.

Please note that if a flower has formed buds and is about to bloom, it cannot be moved to another place. It is not recommended to even turn it, otherwise it will drop the buds.

The flowering period of the Decembrist begins from the end of November to February, in fact, because of this it got its name. In order for the Decembrist to bloom by the New Year holidays, it is necessary to correctly plan the feeding and watering regime.

Watering

Unlike other indoor plants, which stop blooming by autumn and go to rest, the Decembrist is just beginning to wake up. It requires increased watering so that the movement of juices resumes. At the same time, the flower must be moved to a warm place, for example, from a balcony to a room or from the street to a terrace, where the temperature is above 15 degrees.

Watering of zygocactus is carried out moderately from March, but during the flowering period the amount of liquid is increased. The soil must dry out periodically. It is better to add water to the tray under the pot and moisten the top layer of soil once a month.

The fact is that Decembrist takes moisture from the air, so it needs to be sprayed more often than watered. In summer and especially in winter, when the air is dry, it is sprayed 2-3 times a day.

How often to water the Decembrist depends on the condition of the plant. If there is too much liquid, the root system will rot and the appearance of the cactus will deteriorate. You will have to change the soil, treat the root and replant. Overwatering affects the quality of flowering - few buds may form or the flower may skip this stage altogether.

Watering with cold water in hot weather can end badly for the roots - they will begin to rot and the flower will die, so use only warm liquid, preferably settled, without chlorine.

To understand how to water Decembrist, you need to remember that watering at the root is increased in two cases:

Before flowering.

In the summer when it's hot.

In other cases, it is necessary to limit yourself to spraying so as not to damage the root. It will be difficult to save the Decembrist in such a situation.

Lighting

The flower does not like bright sunlight, so it is placed in partial shade. If you buy a plant in a store and suddenly change its living conditions, it may drop its buds and not show signs of life for some time.

It is important to organize its move so that the flower does not notice changes in lighting, feeding, or temperature. The optimal temperature range for it is from 18 to 25 degrees. It is better not to allow temperatures above 37 degrees.

Why does the Decembrist not like sunlight - because he is an epiphyte. These are parasitic plants that live on other crops, in their shade, and feed on the juices of the host plant.

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to propagate the Christmas tree:

cuttings;
vaccination.

The most accessible and effective method is cuttings. Breeding a Christmas tree using a scion is a much more difficult task, but can also be done at home.

How to propagate Decembrist by cuttings

1. Time for reproduction. Zygocactus cuttings take root well, regardless of the time of year and the weather outside the window. But the best time to start breeding Decembrist is from April to May. At this time, the mother plant has already flowered.

2. Selecting a cutting. For leaf propagation, healthy, undamaged cuttings from three separate elements are suitable. It is necessary to inspect the plant and select a separate shoot with small roots. If you want to grow a lush bush, you will need several cuttings.

It is preferable to select shoots from a less dense area of the plant, this is explained by the fact that after cuttings the adult plant is rejuvenated, and in place of the cut shoots others will begin to grow intensively and bloom profusely.

3. Separation of the cuttings from the mother plant. Under no circumstances cut off the shoot with a knife, scalpel, scissors or other sharp objects. Use only your hands. Take the stalk, pinch it a little and twist it, turning it around its axis. Hold the plant with your other hand so as not to accidentally break it.

4. Preparing the cutting for planting. The shoots need to be dried; to do this, they are left in a container in a dry and dark room for a day. A transparent film forms at the site of separation - this means that the plant is ready for planting. If possible, the cuttings can be sprinkled with sand or charcoal.

5. Soil preparation. The easiest way is to buy universal soil for cacti in a specialized store. Soil acidity should be between 5.5-6.5 pH.

You can also prepare the substrate yourself. Optimal soil composition for Decembrist:

leaf soil - 6 parts;
humus soil - 4 parts;
peat – 2 parts;
sand – 2 parts;
turf soil - 1 part.

Zygocactus grows better in soil that is enriched with peat, so some gardeners grow Christmas trees in pure peat. The two main conditions that apply to the substrate are lightness and breathability.

Note: a third of the pot is filled with drainage to avoid stagnation of water in the pot.

6. Planting cuttings. The size of the flowerpot should not greatly exceed the volume of the root system. The roots of zygocactus are poorly developed, so there is no need for a large pot. The pot is filled one-third with drainage, and one-half with prepared substrate. The soil is slightly pressed down and moistened. A depression is made in the center and a shoot is planted. If you need to plant several cuttings, make holes according to the number of plants.

If it so happens that it’s time to plant the shoots, but you haven’t had time to purchase a flowerpot yet, use disposable cups. The top of the plant should be covered with a glass container or polyethylene.

7. Growing conditions. The container is immediately placed in partial shade and the temperature is maintained from +15 to +20 degrees. Plants need to be ventilated regularly - the cover is removed daily for 20-30 minutes. Moderate watering is required.

For complete rooting, the Christmas tree needs 3 to 4 weeks. As soon as new leaf segments appear on the cuttings, it is transplanted into a permanent flowerpot.

Reproduction by grafting

This technique is unpopular and is used extremely rarely. If you want to experiment and learn new floriculture techniques, try planting Decembrist. Two plants are suitable for this:

prickly pear;
Pereskia spinosa.

The upper part of the prickly pear or pereschia is cut off, the stem is cleared of leaves and split closer to the upper edge. 2-3 segments of Decembrist are used as a scion; the lower part must be sharpened and inserted into the prepared slot. After this, the grafting site is fixed with a needle and adhesive tape. Plants grow together at a temperature of +18 degrees for several weeks.

The fixing bandage can be removed as soon as the plant begins to grow. All side shoots and leaves on the plant to which the Decembrist was grafted must be removed, otherwise the rootstock will not have enough strength to provide the grafted cuttings with nutrients. If the grafting process is done correctly, the Decembrist will bloom in the first winter.

Culture transplantation

Replant plants as needed. Adult Decembrists - once every 5 years, young growing ones - once every 1 - 2 years. It is advisable to carry out the procedure immediately after the end of the flowering period - in February, but some amateurs advise waiting until April-May.

Immediately after flowering, the Decembrist is exhausted and needs time to recover. At this time, cuttings may be weak and get sick. But if care is carried out constantly, then the cuttings will take root at any time of the year.

The root system is located horizontally in the soil, that is, the pot is selected wide, but not deep.

The easiest way is to separate several cuttings and after three days put them in a new place, preparing the soil. The planting material should be left without soil for three days to dry. At the same time, it should not be exposed to ultraviolet radiation. A dark place in the room will do.

Soil requirements

Soil plays an important role in the reproduction process. It can be prepared in several ways. The main thing is that it is breathable and drains well. Universal soil will not work - it is too moisture-intensive and “greasy” for a plant that is accustomed to being content with little.

Recipe No. 1:

1 part each of brick chips and crushed charcoal.

2 parts each of turf soil and sand.

4 parts leaf humus.

Pebbles are placed on the bottom so that the roots have less contact with water.

Recipe No. 2:

2 parts peat and sand.

6 parts leaf humus.

4 parts of nutritious humus from manure.

1 part of turf land.

In order for the soil to have disinfecting properties, you need to add a little crushed charcoal to it, and expanded clay for better air circulation.

A mandatory requirement is a slightly acidic environment. The absorption of nutrients will be disrupted at the slightest shift in the acid-base balance. The metabolism of epiphytes is special, because the host plant does all the work for the absorption of nutrients.