The Gesneriaceae family includes about 3,200 species. Its prominent representative is Saintpaulia ( Usambara violet).
The culture is an extremely popular indoor plant. Flower growers first paid attention to wild Saintpaulias at the end of the 19th century. They were brought to Europe from East Africa. Then the German botanist Hermann Wenland described the plants and identified them as a separate genus. Immediately after this, the Uzambara violet was presented at an international flower show in the Belgian city of Ghent. From this moment on, active crop selection began.
All representatives of the Saintpaulia genus are herbaceous perennials. The plants are low-growing and compact: the height of the specimens does not exceed 20 cm, the diameter is 35-40 cm. The leathery, rounded leaves are pubescent with small villi. The base of the plates is heart-shaped, asymmetrical. Their color can be uniform (dark green) or spotted.
Saintpaulia is characterized by rapid growth. Life expectancy is 3-4 years, then decorative qualities are lost. Such specimens are rejuvenated by re-rooting the top. Uzambara violet blooms almost continuously.
| Growing quickly. |
| Blooms from late spring to early autumn. |
| The plant is easy to grow. |
| Up to 4 years, then should be rejuvenated. |
History of origin
The wild plant was first discovered in East Africa. The governor of the Uzumbara district, Saint-Paul, noticed the flower during his forays and sent the seeds to Germany to the then famous botanist Hermann Wenland. Having sprouted the seeds into an adult flowering plant, the scientist described the flower and came to the conclusion that he had discovered a new genus belonging to the Gesneriaceae family.
Soon, Wenland presented a new species at the World Flower Exhibition and attracted great attention from breeders and flower growers to the plant. Thanks to the long flowering period, a huge number of varieties of Uzambara violet have been developed.
The selection process continues to this day, allowing connoisseurs of this beautiful flower to receive interesting new products.
Violet price
“The Violet House” is free. This is not about the real building, but about the film. In it, a family acquires an estate with a flower garden and a bad reputation. If your plans are not to watch the series, but to buy a real plant, it will cost 200-500 rubles. This is the price tag of flower shops. Offers are also received from individuals in the amount of 50-100 rubles.
Ads should be searched on the Internet. There are also websites of private sellers who grow violets personally, like Elena Lebetskaya. On such resources prices are also not bad, starting from the same 50 rubles. However, if delivery is required, you will have to pay extra.
Soil for Saintpaulia
One of the main requirements for soil is its looseness. Loose soil retains moisture well and provides oxygen access to the roots of the plant.
When purchasing soil for Uzumbara violet, remember that universal soil is not suitable. Look in stores for specialized substrate for violets.
If you prefer to prepare the soil yourself, the following proportion is recommended: 1 portion of coarse sand, 3 portions of peat and 5 portions of leaf humus. Mix all this, sprinkle it with phytosporin for prevention and leave it in a planting pot, covered with polyethylene, for a couple of days.
Temperature
Uzumbara violet feels comfortable in the temperature range of +20°С…+25°С. The main condition for the normal development of a plant is the absence of sudden temperature changes. Care in room conditions can adequately ensure the absence of temperature changes.
Spraying
Indoor Saintpaulia flowers are strictly not allowed to be sprayed. Water particles collect in large drops on velvet leaves and lead to the appearance of unsightly spots and streaks. Another danger from spraying is that water from the leaves will flow into the rosette and cause the plant to rot.
If the air in the room is dry, choose any methods of humidification other than spraying.
Watering
Watering violets is carried out with settled water at room temperature. You can also use melt and rain water for irrigation.
In their practice, flower growers use 3 watering methods when caring for violets. Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's figure out how to water a flower using these methods.
Features of the flower
The evergreen herbaceous perennial is not tall, its shoots are shortened. The basal rosette includes rounded leaf plates covered with a fleecy outer layer. Male bushes are painted a uniform green color, while girls are distinguished by the presence of a light spot at the base.
The description of a flower may be the same for different species, but the appearance of each inflorescence is truly unique. Their coloring can be single or even double, there are a wide variety of shades. Proper care guarantees the flower long-term freshness and beauty.
Top watering
Pour water from above under the root of the plant, avoiding getting between the stems. After the water has soaked the entire pot and flows into the pan, drain it.
The disadvantage of this method of watering is that water will accidentally get into the outlet and lead to plant disease.
How to plant or replant violets?
Transplanting violets at home
Remember, if you need to replant violets, you need to do this with a complete replacement of the soil. As practice shows, no matter how regularly fertilizing is done, the soil is still depleted and, as a result, the transplanted plant is not able to receive nutrients in full. Therefore, it will be better if you prepare fresh soil in advance and only then start planting violets.
So:
- To begin, tilt the pot slightly and, turning the flower, try to remove it along with the soil
- Next, we begin to clean the roots of the plant from the old soil. This can be done by hand or by simple shaking
- At the next stage, we begin to inspect our plant
- We remove dried flowers, yellowed leaves and rotten roots
- To prevent this whole procedure from harming the violets, cover all cut areas with crushed activated carbon.
- Take a thoroughly washed pot and put a drainage layer (expanded clay or polystyrene) into it.
- Pour soil on top of it (we told you how to prepare it a little higher)
- We place the violet on it, carefully distribute all its roots, and then again sprinkle everything with a layer of soil
- Let the violet stand for one day, and then water it and send it back to the window
Bottom watering
With this method, water is poured into a tray and left for an hour and a half. After this time, the remaining water in the pan must be poured out, and after another half hour, a control inspection must be performed again.
This method is definitely not suitable for forgetful people. If the violet sits too long in water, its roots will begin to rot and die.
How many days does it take for violet roots to appear?
During the rooting process, we do not change the water, but add it as it evaporates.
As practice shows, on average, the roots of cut leaves begin to appear approximately 20 days after they were lowered into water. But, of course, this does not always happen. This process is influenced by the water in which the plant material was dipped, the very condition of the leaf, and no matter how funny it may sound, the time of year. Those who are involved in growing indoor plants know that at the end of winter and the beginning of spring, all decorative flowers begin to develop intensively.
Due to the fact that during this period they begin to receive much more natural light and heat, all their processes accelerate and, as a result, they begin to bloom more intensively and produce leaves. These processes slow down towards the end of summer, and practically stop in the fall. In view of this, if you propagate a violet in the spring, its leaf may take root even after two weeks. If you try to do this in summer or autumn, you will only be able to see the first roots after a month and a half.
Wick watering
They are used by professional flower growers who have a large number of Saintpaulias. The fabric filter is twisted into a tube and one end is placed in a container with water, and the other is placed in a spiral on the bottom of the pot before replanting the plant.
Thus, the violet takes from the filter exactly as much moisture as it needs. Your task is to ensure that there is always water in the container.
Top dressing
In its historical homeland, our houseplant lives on soil that contains few nutrients. An excess of fertilizing can have a detrimental effect on the plant.
Particular care should be taken when using fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, which are used for decorative deciduous plants. From such food the violet will stop flowering and begin to grow rapidly.
It is recommended to feed Saintpaulia from April to November, finally suspending the procedure in winter. As a top dressing, purchase complex fertilizer for flowering plants in stores.
It is forbidden to fertilize the plant within a month after transplantation; during extreme temperature changes; in case of plant disease.
Caring for Saintpaulia at home. Details
Many gardeners make collecting specimens their hobby. New crop varieties are being developed almost constantly; there is even a fashion for some hybrids. What is necessary for a home-made Saintpaulia to continuously delight the owner with the appearance of new spectacular buds? Let's take a closer look at the plant's microclimate requirements.
Saintpaulia flowering
The intensity of the process is regulated by changing the level of illumination. With a large amount of sunlight, the Uzambara violet is able to constantly produce buds.
However, this is fraught with depletion of the plant. Therefore, it is recommended to move the pot to a shaded place once a year for 1.5-2 months to provide Saintpaulia rest. The variety of varieties does not allow us to give an unambiguous description of the appearance of the crop. There are both hybrids with simple flowers consisting of 5 petals, and specimens with double buds. They can be monochromatic or combine several shades.
Temperature
The Saintpaulia flower prefers warmth at home. In summer, the room temperature should be 22-25 ˚C, in winter – about 19 ˚C. The plant reacts poorly to excessive heat: during such periods it can completely stop flowering.
Uzambara violets cannot be taken out into the open air. In the warm season, it is allowed to move the pots to a glazed loggia or balcony. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that Saintpaulia is protected from drafts.
Spraying
The culture loves moist air. However, the pubescent leaf blades cannot tolerate water getting on them. Therefore, you cannot irrigate the plant with a spray bottle: this will lead to its rotting.
To maintain the parameter at a level of at least 55%, it is necessary to place containers with flowers in pallets filled with moistened sphagnum or small expanded clay. In this case, you cannot remove the saucers on which the pots are placed. You can purchase an industrial humidifier and turn it on periodically.
Lighting for Saintpaulia
Placement on southern windows is contraindicated for violets. In such conditions, leaf plates will bend outward and curl.
The plant develops best when located on the western or eastern side. The optimal length of daylight is 12 hours. Saintpaulia is shade-tolerant, so it can bloom safely even on a northern window. If few buds appear with such localization, an additional light source (phytolamp) should be installed.
If you have the appropriate equipment, you can grow Saintpaulia at home even in the depths of your apartment.
If the petioles of the leaves are elongated and the plates themselves take a vertical position, the lighting intensity should be increased.
Watering
For moisturizing, use soft water at room temperature that has settled for 3-4 days. Some plant growers prefer thawed or filtered. In summer the procedure is carried out every day, in winter – 2 times a week.
The substrate is watered when its surface is completely dry. This can be done in two ways: using a small watering can or by placing the pot in a container of water for 20-25 minutes. In the first case, you need to make sure that the drops do not fall on the leaves. It is important not to allow moisture to stagnate in the container with the flower.
Soil for Saintpaulia
To prepare the soil, you will need to mix:
- 1 part coarse sand;
- 3 parts peat;
- 5 parts leaf humus.
You can purchase ready-made substrate in the store.
Universal compositions for growing Saintpaulias are not suitable. It is necessary to choose special soils for violets.
Feeding and fertilizer
In its natural environment, the plant lives on depleted soils that contain few nutrients and microelements. Therefore, you cannot get carried away with fertilizing. During the winter, procedures are suspended, resuming them at the end of April. Fertilizing violets with mixtures with a high nitrogen content should be avoided.
For Saintpaulias, Kemira-Lux is suitable. When diluting the drug, add 2 times more liquid than required according to the instructions. Fertilizing is applied once every 2-2.5 weeks. You cannot use organic fertilizers such as “meat” water or tea leaves: this contributes to the appearance of leaf mosquitoes (sciarids) on the substrate.
Transplanting Saintpaulia
For a young plant, a container with a diameter of 6-7 cm is suitable, for an adult – about 12 cm. If you use a container that is too large, intensive development of the root system will begin, which will negatively affect flowering.
The procedure is carried out once a year, completely renewing the substrate. A medium-sized layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom of the pot. The soil lump is carefully separated from the walls of the container, then the plant is removed. The roots are freed from the remaining soil, and rotten fragments are removed. If signs of disease are noticed on the specimen, you can immerse the roots for 5-7 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate.
Trimming
Caring for Saintpaulia at home includes regular preventive inspections of the above-ground parts. Dried or mechanically damaged leaves are immediately cut off with a sharp, disinfected instrument.
Some gardeners remove “extra” plates to make the plant look symmetrical. In other cases, Saintpaulia does not need pruning.
Rest period
Uzambara violet is an evergreen perennial. It never sheds its leaves, so it does not have a pronounced dormant period. In Saintpaulia there are only short breaks between flowering phases. At such moments, you can provide the crop with shade and slightly reduce watering: thanks to this, more buds will subsequently form.
Transfer
When choosing a container for a violet, remember that the diameter of the pot should be 3 times smaller than the diameter of the rosette. The capacity of an adult plant is usually 13 cm in diameter and 10 cm in height.
If you transplant the plant into a larger pot, you risk never enjoying the flowering of Saintpaulia.
The plant itself is difficult to tolerate the process of transplantation. Delicate thin roots are highly susceptible to mechanical damage. Therefore, it is recommended to transfer the plant with a lump of earth into a larger pot.
If you find the presence of rotting on the roots, remove it and, for prevention, place the treated roots in a solution of potassium permanganate.
What fertilizers should I use to grow violets?
Fertilizers for violets
Violets, like other ornamental plants, need additional feeding. If you stick them in the ground and just water them occasionally, they will definitely not grow normally. In view of this, it will be better if you periodically enrich them with useful microelements. As practice shows, if you do not feed violets at least once a month, they begin to grow much worse and stop blooming.
As for what fertilizers to use for the normal growth of violets, each person must decide for himself what fertilizer he is willing to spend on. This means that you can buy any fertilizer ( Peters, Etisso, Valagro ), the main thing is that it contains a maximum of substances beneficial to the plant.
The optimal composition of fertilizer for violets:
- Potassium
- Nitrogen
- Phosphorus
- Sodium
- Bor
- Zinc
- Sulfur
- Magnesium
- Molybdenum
Yes, and remember that even the best fertilizer should be used as carefully as possible. Therefore, you should under no circumstances exceed the dosages indicated on the labels and fertilize strictly following all instructions. You can enter it in two ways.
If it is planned, then simply dilute the fertilizer in water and saturate the soil with it (you can simply water the violet with it or put the pot with the plant in a tray with fertilizers). If your plant needs emergency help, then you can pour diluted fertilizers into a spray bottle and spray them over the flower.
Rest period
Saintpaulia, fortunately for many gardeners, is an evergreen plant in which, unlike gloxinia, the above-ground part does not die off in winter.
The dormant period is considered to be the time when the violet rests from continuous flowering. Try to provide the violet with a more shaded place with moderate watering. This will allow you to form even more beautiful buds for the new active period.
Rejuvenation
The Saintpaulia plant grows quickly and does not lose its attractiveness for more than 4 years. However, over time, the lower leaves die off, the rosette becomes less lush, and flowering is not so abundant.
The most effective way of rejuvenation is cutting off the top. The cut site should be treated with root (root growth stimulator) and planted in the prepared substrate. For better survival and adaptation, the plant should be shaded and covered with a transparent cap.
Stepsoning
Do not throw away the remaining part of the old violet that you rejuvenated. After a certain time, the plant will release daughter shoots (stepchildren). When the stepsons reach 5 cm in diameter, it is recommended to separate them from the mother plant and transplant them into a separate pot.
Leaf cuttings
The most popular method of propagating violets is using leaf cuttings. From an adult healthy plant, it is necessary to cut off the plate from the bottom row of the rosette with a sterile instrument. The Saintpaulia wound must be treated with activated carbon dust.
Add 1 tablet of activated carbon powder to a glass of settled water and place the prepared cuttings in it. Make sure that the leaf part of the cutting is not in the water; only the stem should be there.
After 3 weeks, the first roots can be seen on the leaf. As soon as this happens, you should plant the leaves in containers, without deepening them into the ground, and cover them with film for a couple of weeks for rooting.
Soil, land for growing violets
Nutritious soil “Violet”
I would like to say right away that violets categorically cannot tolerate soil infested with bacteria and microorganisms, and that is why the “dig near the house” option will definitely not suit you. If you do this, your plant will grow poorly or even die. In view of this, it will be better if you still make sure that your indoor plants grow in the right soil.
Moreover, if you wish, you can buy it in any specialized store without any problems. Well, if for some reason you don’t like purchased soil, you can easily prepare it yourself. For those who do not know how to do this correctly, below we present several ways to prepare light and healthy soil that is ideal for growing indoor plants.
So:
- The easiest way to prepare the right soil is to mix one part of ordinary soil with two parts of peat and add a small amount of sphagnum moss to all this. After thoroughly mixing all the components, the product can be laid out in flower pots and young violets can be planted in it.
- If you want to make really good soil with your own hands, then take 6-8 parts of high-quality peat and add one part each of sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite and charcoal. In this case, you will have loose soil, which will prevent the proliferation of putrefactive bacteria and promote faster flower development.
Seeds
The most difficult method of propagating violets, requiring practical skills and experience from the grower.
Initially, you should choose two of your favorites for cross-pollination. Using a soft brush, transfer pollen from one violet flower to another. If you did everything correctly, then after 4 months the seeds will ripen on the fertilized specimen.
Place the seeds in a prepared container with loose, moistened soil and cover with polyethylene or glass. As the plants grow and develop, plant them in separate containers.
Diseases of violets with photographs and their treatment
Diseases of violets with photographs and their treatment
No matter how unpleasant it is to admit it, sometimes even with proper care, a violet can get sick. In this case, the cause of the problems is microscopic pests that damage the leaves, stems and roots of the plant.
Such diseases are more dangerous than medical ones, therefore it is necessary to get rid of them as soon as possible. If this is not done, the flower will inevitably die, infecting all those plants that stood near it.
Diseases and their treatment:
- Late blight (you can get rid of this disease with the help of Phytosporin, by spraying the affected plant).
- Fusarium (you can try to get rid of the problem with any fungicide suitable for combating diseases of indoor plants).
- Powdery mildew (plants are sprayed with an antifungal agent such as Benlat).
- Gray rot (first, all damaged leaves are removed, and then treated with Teldor fungicide).
Insect pests
Most often the plant is attacked by the following parasites:
- Mealybugs. A white cotton-like coating forms on the cuttings of the plant.
- Thrips. The flowers dry quickly and yellow dust forms on the leaves.
- Cyclamen mites. The young leaves curl up, and the adults have longer hairs.
- Nematodes. The roots of the plant are affected. The most dangerous type of pests, since their influence is not immediately noticeable, but only during transplantation. A plant infected with nematodes lags behind in development, blooms poorly, and young leaves grow ugly and curled.
If you find pests on your violets, take action immediately. Protect the sick plant from healthy ones and treat it with special preparations. After processing, it is recommended to wrap the violet in plastic for a couple of days.
When is the best time to plant and replant indoor violets?
Optimal time for transplanting violets
Above, we have already told you how violets behave at different times of the year. And if you were attentive, you probably remembered that in late autumn and winter it practically stops growing and blooming, or, as advanced flower gardeners say, it goes into a dormant state. Of course, if you try to transplant it during this period, it will definitely not take root well in the new place.
If you want the flower to take root as quickly as possible in a new pot, then replant it in spring or early summer. True, in this case there is one nuance. Violets do not tolerate heat very well. Therefore, if you want everything to go well, then select the time of transplantation so that at least two days after the leaf is transferred to the soil, the weather remains cloudy outside.
If you have to replant the violet during the period when it falls into a dormant state, then be sure to provide it with the right amount of light. This can be done using room lighting.
Diseases
Violets are susceptible to the following diseases:
- Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that is transmitted through fungal spores. It is expressed in a white coating on the leaves. Over time, the leaves on violets become deformed and die.
- Fusarium is a fungal disease that affects the root system of violets. The fungus rises through the vessels into the leaves of the plant. During the active phase of development, moist light brown spots appear on the leaves. The leaf cuttings begin to rot. Unfortunately, the plant cannot be saved. You should get rid of it as soon as possible.
- Gray rot is a disease that occurs when violets are grown at low temperatures. Appears in the form of brown spots with mold. The disease weakens the plant's rosette, liquefies the roots and cuttings. To save the plant, it is necessary to remove all leaves with signs of infection, preventing the infection from entering the soil.
Keep an eye on your plants, inspect them carefully once a week and respond immediately to any changes.
A healthy plant can resist diseases and will delight you with long and abundant flowering. Take a photo of Saintpaulia, share it with your friends, exchange leaves and expand your collection.
Why don't violets bloom, how can I make them bloom?
Reasons that prevent violets from blooming
If you notice that your violets are producing leaves, but bright flowers do not appear on their rosette, then this is a sure sign that the plant does not like something. The most unpleasant thing in this situation is that if you do not eliminate the reasons that prevent the flower from developing correctly, this may ultimately lead to its death.
Reasons that prevent violets from blooming:
- Lack of light (poor room lighting)
- Incorrect feeding of an adult flower
- Potting soil that is too dry or too wet
- Humidity below 30%
- The soil is too dense
- Various diseases and pests
As you can see, there are many reasons why a violet may refuse to bloom. This means that in order for your indoor flower to begin to delight you with delicate flowers again, you definitely need to make sure that it receives everything it needs. Believe me, if you properly care for your indoor beauty, you will definitely not have such problems.
