Dendrobium nobile: a proven method of propagating a noble orchid

Dendrobium (Dendrobium Nobile) is an epiphyte plant with sympodial branching. Family – Orchidaceae. Homeland: tropics of Southeast Asia, China, Philippines, Japan, islands of the Malay Archipelago, Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand, islands of Oceania. As a rule, hybrid plants are grown in culture.

Flowers have a scent. Color – white / pink / dark purple and other shades. Flowering period: autumn / winter / spring / summer. The budding period extends for three months. Dendrobium (Nobile) flowers cover the pseudobulb almost its entire length.

Care after flowering...

There are three phases in the life cycle of Dendrobium nobile: flowering, growth and dormancy.
In the first phase, which most often occurs in spring, flowers bloom. Their number reaches 20 pieces. Sooner or later, flowering ends: the flowers wither and fall off. Then the question arises, what to do next?

Leave the orchid in a cool place and wait for new growth to appear. Stop intensively moistening the plant. The new growth must take root of its own. When their size reaches several centimeters, watering can be resumed. The soil should dry out well between waterings. When the new growths are strong enough and begin to inflate, it is recommended to stop watering for a while and lower the temperature.

Keep without watering for a week. This stimulates the formation of flower buds. As soon as the buds appear, start watering again, otherwise it will grow babies rather than flowers.

Completely dried flower stalks are cut off after flowering. Green ones are left or trimmed.

The pseudobulb should not be removed unnecessarily after flowering. Only if it dries completely, when it gives up the accumulated nutrients and water. If the pseudobulb has green buds that have not yet bloomed, the orchid may produce new flowers. By properly caring for Dendrobium nobile, you can achieve re-blooming.

Third stage: the leaves turn yellow, fall off, and preparations are underway for the dormant period. Watering is reduced, and the introduction of additional nutrition is completely eliminated.

The dormant period falls at the end of autumn - beginning of winter.

From the end of October, Dendrobium begins a dormant period, which lasts about 2 months. It is not as pronounced as in its natural environment, but the plant will need rest. At the same time, stop watering. The introduction of additional nutrition is completely excluded. Temperature during the day +15-18℃, at night +8-10°C. The plant is placed in the brightest, driest place.

If daily temperature fluctuations cannot be created, then the plant is placed at a constant temperature of about 10-12°C.

The appearance of young shoots at the base of the bulb means the end of the dormant period; watering is resumed. The plant is fed with increased concentrations of potassium and phosphorus, which are necessary for the formation of flower buds.

Typically, dendrobium flowering lasts 8-12 weeks; at high ambient temperatures it may be shortened. Lack of flowers: insufficient lighting, no rest period provided.

Sources

• https://komnatnie.com/orhid/phal/sortaf/dendrobium.html
• https://stroy-podskazka.ru/dendrobium/falenopsis-opisanie/
• https://gileya.kherson.ua/ru/enciklopediya/orhideja/dendrobium
• https://ogorod-bez-hlopot.ru/dendrobium-falenopsis-sorta-uxod.html
• https://sadov0d.ru/komnatnyie-rasteniya/orchideya-dendrobium-falenopsis.html
• https://domfloris.ru/orhidei/orhideya-dendrobium-foto-i-nazvaniya-s-opisaniem-vidov.html

Special ceramic pots for orchids

It is good to plant orchids in ceramic pots that do not tolerate the heating of the substrate - for example, cymbidiums and odontoglossums. Clay weakly conducts solar heat, maintaining a constant temperature in the root zone. Also, ceramic pots are suitable for growing moderately cool orchids whose roots do not carry out photosynthesis:

• lady's slippers;
• Cumbria;
• Cattleyas;
• dendrobiums.

For moisture-loving orchids, any ceramic pot can be suitable. But for those species that need good drying of the substrate, it is better to buy special containers with slotted holes in the walls.

Important! When choosing a ceramic pot for planting an orchid, you need to make sure that the inside is covered with glaze. Orchid roots “stick” very strongly to unglazed clay.

Ceramic pots with holes are rarely found in stores, but such containers can be made to order. Their average cost is 600 rubles.

How to properly care

In order for a culture to develop normally, it should be provided with complete and high-quality care.

Temperature

In summer, the optimal daytime temperature is considered to be +20-25 degrees. At night the indicator should be +16-21 degrees. In winter, it is not recommended to exceed the daily mark of +20 degrees. At night the maximum temperature should be +18 degrees. This mode is optimal for heat-loving orchid species.

Illumination

Light requirements depend on the type of orchid. Moreover, all varieties love bright, diffused light. The flower needs protection from direct sunlight. It is worth considering that all types react negatively to the effects of drafts.

Watering mode

In spring and summer, orchids require abundant watering. It is recommended to avoid stagnation of liquid in the substrate. This will cause root rot. For irrigation, you should use settled or filtered water.

Air humidity

The culture requires high air humidity, which should be 50-80%. In summer, it is recommended to keep the plant outside and spray its leaves as often as possible. In winter, the container with the culture should be placed on a tray, which is recommended to be filled with wet gravel.

Transfer

Dendrobium does not tolerate transplantation. Therefore, this procedure should be performed as rarely as possible – once every 3-4 years. Species that bloom in spring should be replanted immediately after this process is completed. Plants that produce flowers in the fall are moved to a new location when young shoots begin to develop.

A pot that is not too large is suitable for the plant. It can be made from any material. It is worth placing several heavy stones at the bottom. Place a drainage layer on top. To do this, it is recommended to use expanded clay or polystyrene foam.

Then you should pour coarse bark and carefully transfer the flower into a new pot. The voids are filled with new substrate

To plant the plant, you should use ready-made soil for orchids.

Fertilizer and feeding

It is recommended to apply fertilizers exclusively during the period of active growth - from April to September. This procedure is performed every 15 days. To do this, you can use liquid fertilizer for orchids. All types of heat-loving dendrobiums require the systematic use of fertilizers based on potassium and phosphorus. This composition is applied once a month. It is recommended to feed cool-season orchids with nitrogen 2-3 times a month.

During flowering

Orchids bloom at different times. The duration of this process is 2-3 months. To achieve a timely start to flowering, a difference between night and day temperatures of 5-7 degrees is required. This is easiest to achieve in the summer.

After flowering

When flowering ends, watering should be gradually reduced. In this case, the peduncle is cut off and the crop is moved to a cool place. In this case, the culture will be able to fully relax and gain strength. In winter, the bush requires mandatory additional lighting. For this, it is definitely recommended to use a phytolamp.

Requirements for pot and soil

Dendrobium requires a spacious pot. It should be quite wide. The roots of the plant do not participate in photosynthesis, so it does not require a transparent container. Some epiphytes with cascading flowers are recommended to be planted in hanging baskets.

For the plant, you should use a standard substrate, which includes a mixture of sphagnum, peat, pine bark, and charcoal. Before planting, a drainage layer is placed on the bottom of the container, which will help avoid stagnation of moisture.

Conditions for keeping dendrobium during the period of active growth

The period of active growth is spring/summer. It begins from the moment when new shoots appear on old pseudotubers.

Each individual pseudotuber at the place where the leaves are attached is divided into parts - the division occurs along the narrowings. In the place where the leaf is adjacent to the pseudotuber, there are buds, which, under various conditions of maintenance, develop into peduncles or into new plants.

A sign of the end of vegetative growth and ripening of the pseudotuber - the young sprout has stretched out and rounded, with the last leaf formed at its top.

Lighting during the growth period

Optimal lighting: from October to March - maximum possible; from April to September: from 10-00 to 16-00 diffused sunlight, before 10-00 and after 16-00 direct sunlight.

Determine the optimal illumination for your hybrid in a given period of time experimentally:

• with excess light, new pseudotubers will be shorter than those that formed before the plant was acquired. In this case, you can reduce the lighting level.

• in insufficient light, new pseudotubers will form long and thin.

Temperature during growth period

Temperature in summer:

• optimal daytime +(18-25)0C.

• optimal night +(14-20)0С.

The maximum permissible temperature is +400C.

Permissible night temperature in summer + (22-24) 0С.

Temperature in winter:

• optimal temperature during the day + (15-20) 0С;

• optimal temperature at night +(6-12)0C.

Air humidity

During periods of active growth:

• optimal humidity – moderate;

• permissible humidity is low.

In the summer, when the temperature deviates upward from optimal, it is advisable to increase the air humidity or keep the orchid outdoors.

Watering during the growth period

The first watering (after the dormant period) is carried out only after the first signs of vegetative growth (bud swelling) appear or after the flower buds have matured. The last watering is carried out at the end of vegetative growth. Frequency of watering - with light drying of the substrate between waterings.

In the summer, provided the recommended maintenance conditions are provided (bark substrate), watering is carried out almost every day. Water with purified water (reverse osmosis), heated to a temperature of 22–240C, or the water temperature should be 2-30C higher than the air temperature.

Watering is carried out in the morning. Water should not get on the leaves, otherwise the risk of fungal diseases increases many times over. Once a week it is useful to shower the dendrobium (except for the flowering period): washing the dirt from the ground part and washing the soil substrate with plenty of water (excess salts are washed away).

Dendrobium is watered by immersing the pot with the plant in water for 5-10 minutes; in extreme cases, abundant watering is carried out from a watering can.

Sign of quality watering:

• before watering, the root sheath is silvery (gray) in color, the tip of the root is silvery-green.

• after watering, the root shell becomes glossy and green.

Watering frequency:

• water the dendrobium after the root shell changes its color from green to gray or silver.

Houseplant care

• Lighting. Orchid loves bright light.
• Temperature. It is necessary to observe the temperature regime for rapid flower growth.
• Watering. You can’t overwater the plant, but you also can’t let it dry out.
• Fertilizer feeding. For full development and to protect the orchid from diseases.
• Maintain indoor air humidity. If the air in the room is dry, the plant will dry out.

To learn how to properly care for your Dendrobium orchid, you need to consider each of the above points. Let's get acquainted with them in more detail.

Lighting

This is the most important moment of caring for a flower at home. Any variety of orchid, including Dendrobium, is very photophilous and needs a lot of bright light. Since this is necessary for its flowering, especially for varieties with bright colors. Daylight hours should last at least 12 hours.

In the autumn-winter period, as a rule, additional lighting sources are used - lamps. If there is insufficient lighting, Dendrobium will not be able to please you with its bright, beautiful blooms.

Reference. The Dendrobium orchid, unlike other species, does not need to be turned to the light in different directions.

Temperature

Moderate temperature for active growth of this type of orchid is from 17 to 25 degrees. At night, the optimal temperature is no higher than 21 degrees. Types of cool keeping in the spring-summer period require a temperature of 15 to 18 degrees during the day, and about 12 degrees at night.

In autumn and winter, the orchid needs a room temperature of 12 to 16 degrees.

Therefore, frostbite of the flower should be avoided to avoid unwanted effects.

How to water and feed correctly?

Watering and fertilizing for this type of orchid is no less important than other types of care. Dendrobium needs to be watered in different quantities at different times of the year. In spring and summer, the plant in the pot should be moistened abundantly. And autumn and winter is a dormant period for orchids, so watering should be more sparse. The main thing is that watering is carried out with settled or boiled water at room temperature.

But as for feeding, it also needs to be done at a certain time. It is advisable to produce it from April to September using complex mineral fertilizers. As a rule, fertilize the substrate once every 10–15 days.

Important! It is necessary to purchase fertilizers that are suitable specifically for this type of orchid.

The video below describes the rules for watering dendrobium:

Air humidity

The optimal air humidity for this plant should be from 50 to 70%. Therefore, during the winter heating season, the bush should be sprayed with warm water as often as possible. Since it is in winter that the air in the room is dry, and this can have a detrimental effect on the plant. During this period of time, it is best to place the flower pot on a tray filled with damp crushed stone.

It is necessary to spray the above-ground part 1-3 times a week, depending on the air humidity in the room.

Reproduction methods

Since dendrobium is a sympoidal exotic species, their distinctive feature is the presence of bulbs with their own root system, which greatly simplifies the process of their propagation. At home, orchids of this species can reproduce in several ways:

• children;
• dividing the bush;
• rooting cuttings.

The soil for each of the options can be purchased at the store or prepared with your own hands.

How to plant: gentle technology for dividing a bush

Exotic propagation by dividing the bush is carried out no more than once every 4 years.

Dendrobium must have at least 6 pseudobulbs.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. The bush is carefully removed from the pot and completely cleared of soil;
2. carefully untangle the root system;
3. lay the specimen on a hard surface and cut it with a previously disinfected knife into several parts, so that each of them contains at least two pseudotubers;
4. The cut areas are treated with charcoal.

Reproduction by dividing the bush is possible only after the end of the flowering period.

How to reproduce with children?

Often children grow independently on the formed pseudobulbs of an orchid. In this case, you need to wait for the leaves to appear and strong roots to form.
For propagation, it will be enough to have 4-5 leaves and roots with a length of 5 to 8 centimeters. To remove the baby from the mother plant, you need to separate it from the stem by slightly twisting it. This action does not require much effort.

Important! After separation, it is recommended to dry the damaged areas in the open air for 3 days.

Dendrobium is very sensitive to reproduction and undergoes a lot of stress when dividing. Therefore, it is unacceptable to propagate exotics using this method if they are sick. Otherwise, not only the mother plant, but also the baby may die.

Video on how to separate Dendrobium babies from the main plant:

Cuttings

This method of breeding orchids is considered the most difficult and impossible to carry out under normal conditions. In this case, you will need to build a greenhouse and equip it with additional lighting. The reproduction process requires the following steps:

1. Separate the pseudobulb from the mother bush by cutting it at the root. Then cut the planting material into segments 10 cm long.
2. Treat the cut areas with cinnamon or garden varnish.
3. Before planting, moisten the sphagnum moss and place it in a bag that is hermetically sealed with a ziplock. You can also build a greenhouse using a plastic bottle or container with a lid.
4. Place cuttings on the moss so that there are no more than 2 pieces per bag.

For the rooting and full development of young dendrobium, it will be necessary to create certain conditions:

• diffused light;
• constantly moistened moss;
• air temperature from +22 to +25 °C;
• systematic ventilation of the greenhouse.

If all the rules are followed, the root system will form in 2-3 weeks.

Important! Dendrobiums can be propagated using old, faded pseudobulbs.

Video about propagation of Dendrobium by cuttings:

Bulbs

Using the buds located on the tuber, you can grow up to 20 copies of planting material in 1 year. For this you will need:

1. use bulbs aged 2 to 3 years;
2. separate from the mother bush and cut so that each segment contains a node with a developed bud;
3. treat the cuts with charcoal and leave to dry for 2 days;
4. Place the cut bulbs on a moistened surface of sphagnum moss.

As a result of this method of propagation, the appearance of young shoots can be observed after 30-45 days.

How to properly care?

A distinctive feature of dendrobium is that it has a dormant period. After it finishes flowering it appears to stop growing, this is not the case, in fact it goes into a dormant period. In this case, watering is reduced to a minimum. It is also better to keep the temperature quite low, around 17-21 degrees. After dormancy ends, the plant begins to grow new shoots.

Dendrobium blooms as continuous bushes when neither pseudobulbs nor leaves are visible. It may seem like they are just balls of flowers. An interesting feature of this plant is the presence of so-called children. If the dendrorium blooms at the wrong time and the babies grow on the pseudobulb, this is a sign that the care is not being carried out correctly.

Sometimes the dendrobium can take root above the surface of the ground, in which case nothing needs to be done. If you sprinkle soil on top, the plant may stop growing.

Temperature and humidity

Dendrobiums can withstand hot weather if the flowers are provided with adequate ventilation and humidity. They grow best at temperatures of +20...25°C during the day and +15...+20°C at night. Please note that the temperature at the window on the windowsill is different from the temperature in the room.

Place a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water under the pot to increase the humidity around the orchid. The distance between plants growing nearby should be sufficient for air circulation. Too crowded placement leads to pest infestation.

Secrets of growing dendrobium orchids

There are techniques and methods that allow you to optimize the process of growing dendrobium in your home. Knowing the subtleties of these types of flowers, you can achieve high levels of aesthetics, provide the conditions the plant needs, and ensure abundant and long-lasting flowering.

One of the watering options is to place the pot in water

How to properly water dendrobium

Orchids are quite moisture-loving. You can water either in the classical way - pouring moisture into the pot, or submersibly - occasionally placing the root of the plant in a container of water. This is especially convenient for growing in baskets or blocks. The signal for the next watering is the dry top layer of soil. In winter, watering is significantly reduced, only occasionally moistening the substrate in small portions. In summer, fertilizers are added to the water. Be careful: do not allow water to get on the upper parts of the plant so that it does not rot. The water should always be slightly lukewarm and soft in composition. If there is no filter, boil water for irrigation.

Feeding during the growing season

Feeding the dendrobium orchid is necessary during the period of active growth. This is the period from the end of flowering until the onset of dormancy. In Russia, it chronologically coincides with the warm season - the end of spring, summer and beginning of autumn. It is at this time that the dendrobium actively grows with green mass. He needs help in this matter by adding nutrients.

Liquid fertilizers for orchids

A special group of fertilizers for orchids is intended for application to leaves by spraying. It can be found in stores under the name Orchid Leaf Care. Most of these formulations contain urea.

The other group is intended for absorption by the root system and assimilation by the plant “naturally”. They are sold in liquid form and have common names like Fytopan, Orchid Food and others.

To feed, mix the liquid in a 1:1 ratio with water, pour it into the pot at the end of watering so as not to burn the rhizomes. The frequency of fertilization is every 3-4 waterings.

How to get dendrobium to bloom

If you want to make your orchid bloom, then you need to follow several important rules:

• provide a sufficient level of illumination;
• along with the light, the orchid must receive a sufficient flow of air, that is, stand in the summer and autumn either in a draft or in the open air;
• do not overfeed or over-water the dendrobium;
• After the end of the active growing season, place future buds in the cold, down to 12 degrees.

In appropriate conditions, denbrobium will delight you with flowering

Dendrobium has a characteristic feature: this orchid will transform buds into babies without decreasing the temperature, that is, continue to grow with green mass. Thus, a decrease in temperature, especially at night, is key to initiating the flowering process.

How to plant Dendrobium? Gentle technology for dividing the bush

How to plant a Dendrobium orchid? Often, flower growers are eager to increase their orchid collection or try to grow it from scratch. Dendrobium is the most suitable orchid plant for propagation . There are several methods of reproduction. Let's look at the method of dividing a bush.

There are certain requirements inherent in this method:

• The age of the orchid should not be less than 4 years,
• The plant must be healthy and kept in good conditions,
• Have at least 6 pseudobulbs (trunks with leaves).

Technology:

• Thorough watering, waiting for the velamen to absorb moisture for the flexibility of the roots and their better separation from the substrate;
• Removing the end part and cleaning it from the old substrate;
• A “division” is cut with a sharp knife (each “division” must have at least three pseudobulbs);
• The cut areas are treated with crushed activated carbon or cinnamon;
• The divided bush lies for a day to dry the cutting area;
• Planted in a new substrate.

This propagation method is especially suitable for propagation in winter , before the start of active growth.

Dendrobium orchid types and photographs

Currently, approximately 1,200 species of dendrobium are known. Natural species go on general sale much less often than hybrids created on their basis. They can be purchased at nurseries and botanical gardens, where they are used to breed new species. The following species are best suited for growing at home: Dendrobium nobilis, Dendrobium moniliforme, Dendrobium densely flowered, Dendrobium King, Dendrobium Parisha, Dendrobium phalaenopsis.

Dendrobium noble

Dendrobium nobile is one of the most popular and widespread species in cultivation; it has more than 80 varieties. The name of the species is derived from the word “nobile”, which means “famous, noble, noticeable”.

The Dendrobium nobilis orchid is a large epiphytic plant up to 90 cm high. Its stems are large, fleshy, swollen. The leaves are located on both sides of the stem and have an oblong elliptical shape. Short peduncles develop 3-4 flowers with a diameter of up to 10 cm. The flowers vary in color from white to dark purple. The lip is white with a large dark purple spot. It most often blooms from January to May.

Dendrobium moniliforme

Pictured is Dendrobium moniliforme

Dendrobium moniliforme is a Japanese endemic orchid that resembles Dendrobium nobilis, but is much smaller in size. The size of an adult plant is about 15 cm, and it begins to bloom when it reaches only 5–6 cm. The flowers are pink-white, fragrant. Blooms from late winter to early autumn.

Dendrobium dense-flowered

Dendrobium densiflorum is an epiphytic erect orchid. The tetrahedral stems thicken and have quite pronounced nodes, on top of which 3–4 leaves grow. The leaves are narrow, elliptical or lanceolate, rather fleshy and smooth. Dense inflorescences are collected in sagging racemes, which consist of a large number of flowers (from 50 to 100 pieces). The lip is pubescent, yellow-orange. The flowers are yellow-orange, their diameter is no more than 5 cm.

Dendrobium King

Dendrobium kingianum is a small epiphytic orchid. It has rigid cylindrical stems that thicken at the top. The leaves are located on the upper part of the stem in 3-4 pieces, lanceolate, up to 30 cm long and 3 cm wide. The flowers are small, collected in a raceme, and have a color from white to bright purple. The flowers are very fragrant, up to 2 cm in size. A special feature of this species is the curled tubular base of the lip around the column. Flowering begins in February and lasts for two weeks.

Dendrobium Parisha

Pictured is Dendrobium Parisha

Dendrobium parishii is an epiphytic deciduous orchid, reminiscent of Dendrobium nobilis. Its stems are thick, hanging, up to 40 cm long. The leaves are oblong, lanceolate, and have a small cut at the end. Inflorescences are few-flowered. The diameter of the flowers is up to 10 cm, color from pink to lilac. The lip of the flower is diamond-shaped or round, pink or white, decorated at the base with two dark purple spots. Blooms in spring or summer.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis

Dendrobium phalaenopsis is a large semi-deciduous orchid. The stems are long, erect, fleshy. They thicken towards the top and are up to 60 cm long. The leaves are lanceolate, long, and grow in the upper part of the stems. The peduncle reaches 60 cm in length. Large flowers, which are up to 9 cm in diameter, are colored in lilac-violet shades. It blooms from November to January, the flowering period is 5–6 weeks. At the moment, a large number of subspecies of Dendrobium phalaenopsis have been bred, which differ in the period and duration of flowering, as well as the color of the inflorescences.

Children's department

Dendrobiums by their nature form many “babies” formed at the nodes of the stem . Propagation is carried out by those “babies” whose root length reaches a size of at least 5-6 cm. Usually this procedure is carried out at the beginning of summer, planting the “babies” in small containers.

The procedure is simple. The main thing is to comply with the recommended requirements :

• Using a sharp, disinfected instrument, the baby is cut off from the mother plant;
• The roots are immersed in water for 5-7 minutes to gain moisture;
• The “baby” is planted in a container with a new fine fraction substrate;
• The soil around the roots is carefully, slightly compacted. And the growth point is left above the substrate;
• The substrate is kept moist until the leaves appear.

Important! Avoid stagnation of water in the container.

After the leaves appear, you can proceed to standard care for orchids of this type.

What conditions are necessary for the plant?

Due to the fact that the dendrobium is considered a representative of the epiphyte family, it is worth understanding that good care at home consists of providing moist air, sufficient lighting and an optimal amount of moisture.

Tips for choosing

Pot

You should choose a ceramic or plastic pot for an orchid, preferably not transparent. This plant needs drainage. Therefore, it is imperative to place a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot.

What kind of soil is needed?

What kind of soil is needed for the plant? Gardeners advise using special soil for dendrobiums, intended for epiphytic orchids. A good option for growing orchids is to prepare the soil mixture yourself. You need to mix peat soil, sphagnum, pine bark and charcoal. Peat is necessary to provide the recommended acidic environment.

When preparing the soil yourself, it is advisable to boil the future substrate for 10 minutes and then dry it. It is worth doing this in order to disinfect the soil, this way you can avoid infecting the plant with pests and bacteria.

A drainage consisting of crushed stone or broken brick is placed at the bottom of the pot. Gardeners recommend placing large pieces of tree bark on top of the drainage. Then crushed pieces of bark are placed.

We recommend watching a video about preparing a substrate for dendrobium:

Location

Dendrobium needs sunbathing, therefore, to ensure favorable conditions for the existence of the flower, it must be placed on windows facing south. If the plant is located on the east or west sides, it will be necessary to install additional artificial lighting. North-facing windows are not at all suitable for providing comfortable conditions for dendrobium.

Lighting

Dendrobium is a light-loving plant. It is necessary to provide it with bright light, but not direct sunlight.

Important: The plant should not be placed in bright sunlight right away; it must be gradually trained. If the plant is located in direct sunlight, it needs to provide air movement.

How often to water and shower?

During the growing season, the plant needs a lot of water. It is recommended to water without waiting for the substrate to dry out. If it is a hot day, watering should be done every day. If the weather is cloudy or rainy, you need to water when the substrate begins to dry out, about 2 times a week. If there is water left in the pan, it must be drained 15 minutes after watering. This time is enough for the flower to be saturated with water. Otherwise, the roots may simply rot.

The best time for watering is considered to be morning. With the onset of frost, you should stop watering the flower. Then you need to rinse the roots in the pot with clean running water to wash away all the remaining salt and extra fertilizer. The roots should remain clean during the dormant period. Watering stops until the flower buds wake up.

Dendrobium prefers to be in a room with high humidity. To ensure favorable conditions for the orchid, it is recommended to spray it every day.

Watering must be done with water at room temperature, preferably settled.

We recommend watching a video about proper watering of dendrobium orchids:

Temperature

Dendrobium is a plant resistant to any temperature. Can withstand even negative temperatures. In hot weather, it can be in conditions with temperatures up to 38 degrees. Of course, do not forget about air ventilation.

Orchids are extremely sensitive to large and sudden fluctuations in temperature, as well as cold!

Fertilizer

It is necessary to feed denrobium starting in spring. It is recommended to use a complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in equal proportions. Fertilizer frequency: 1 time per week. To get gorgeous blooms, the fertilizer solution should be in the ratio: 1 teaspoon per 4-liter bucket.

It is necessary to shed fertilizer after watering the plant, then the roots will already be saturated with moisture, which will prevent them from being burned. Starting in August, the fertilizer must be of a different type. From now on, there should be no nitrogen in the fertilizers. Otherwise, babies will grow on pseudobulbs. This way you can get lush blooms at the end of winter.

Conditions for keeping dendrobium during the dormant period

For most dendrobiums, the dormant period begins after the first or second summer growth; among other things, due to decreased lighting, there is a phenomenon of winter stagnation of the plant (life processes practically stop).

Dendrobium has a pronounced dormant period. In temperate latitudes in the autumn-winter period (starting from mid-September), the level of illumination of the plant is greatly reduced. For this reason, life processes in the dendrobium slow down in parallel with the decrease in illumination, and ultimately the plant freezes. In deciduous dendrobiums, leaves fall off. This condition is not typical for plants developing in natural conditions. As it develops, the new shoot stretches and swells, ultimately forming a new pseudobulb, which after some time (it varies for all varieties) will be able to bloom.

At rest, all roots have silvery tips. If the plant is not dormant, one or more tips will be green. The green tip of the root indicates that it is growing. The roots of a dormant plant do not consume water. Therefore, there is no need to water the dendrobium in this state.

Lighting during rest periods

Optimal lighting:

• from October to March - maximum possible;

• from April to September - from 10-00 to 16-00 diffused sunlight, before 10-00 and after 16-00 direct sunlight.

Acceptable lighting is diffused light / partial shade.

Temperature during rest period

Optimal night temperature:

• before the buds appear: +(15-16)0C.

• after the buds appear: +(17-18)0С.

Permissible minimum average temperature is +100C.

Permissible minimum short-term temperature is +30C.

IMPORTANT! – the plant is more likely to survive low temperatures only with a dry soil substrate and low air humidity. A decrease in temperature below 00C (even for a short time) will lead to the death of the plant.

The duration of the rest period is from several weeks to several months.

Air humidity during rest period

Optimal humidity is moderate.

Permissible humidity is low.

Watering during dormancy

Watering in the classic version, which involves wetting the entire substrate, is not carried out. During the dormant period, you can water in two ways:

• from a sprayer - we moisten the surface of the substrate to a depth of 5-10mm. Frequency: once every 7-10 days.

• using a watering can - we moisten the surface of the substrate in contact with the pot: water along the edge of the pot, quickly moving the watering can (without staying in place). Frequency: once every two weeks.

In the period after the flower buds ripen and until the end of flowering, the plants are watered regularly.

The soil

The optimal acidity of the substrate is pH 5.5 - 6.5. The composition of the soil mixture is pure pine bark (fraction 6-10mm).

Diseases and other problems

In some cases, dendrobium may lose its attractiveness and exhibit a number of symptoms that cause concern among gardeners.

Sometimes these “bells” are only part of the normal life process of an orchid, but they may also indicate the development of a disease in the plant.

Dendrobium leaves turn yellow

Yellowing and falling foliage of an apparently healthy flower is a natural process. Old leaves that have completed their life cycle fall off. The latter averages about 2 years.

Dendrobium withers

Shrinking of shoots during the formation of new pseudobulbs and during the dry period is also a common and normal process, so there is no need to panic too much.

How to save a dendrobium if it turns yellow and withers

pseudobulbs become flabby and wither

You can get rid of insects and help the orchid recover using laundry soap. The plant is thoroughly washed with it, and then treated with a 0.15% actellik solution.

Soap baths can also be used as a preventive measure.

Root rot

The reason is excessive watering. If the problem is not corrected in time, rot will spread from the roots to the stems, and the plant will begin to wither. Also, this problem can be caused by excessive use of mineral supplements. In both cases, in order to prevent the orchid from dying, it must be urgently transplanted.

The trunk of the dendrobium is rotting

Rotting occurs due to waterlogging of the substrate, or as a result of water getting between the leaves and the trunk. To prevent such a situation, after spraying, it is recommended to blot such places with a napkin, removing excess moisture.

If rot does affect the plant, it is necessary to urgently cut off all damaged areas, treat the wounds with charcoal or activated carbon, and spray the entire orchid with a fungicide solution.

Dendrobium is cracking

The formation of cracks on pseudobulbs is caused by:

• excess nitrogen fertilizers;
• a sharp temperature change that coincided with watering the flower;
• severe hypothermia;
• lack of moisture.

They also occur as a result of mechanical damage. If, in addition to cracks, the plant has no other problems, restoration procedures should be carried out.

These include the abandonment of nitrogen fertilizers (replace them with potassium-phosphorus additives), optimization of air temperature and irrigation regime.

Dendrobium sheds buds and flowers

This happens for several reasons. The most common: lack of fresh air or lighting, excessive or very frequent watering during the period of swelling of the buds. In order for an orchid to bloom, you need to slightly change its conditions by correcting errors in care.

Step by step on how to transplant

1. Removal from the pot .
   If the pot is made of plastic. Before removing the dendrobium orchid from the pot, be sure to lightly crush the walls with your hands. Thanks to this, the substrate will yield better. Next, you need to carefully pull the flower out of the pot. To make the task easier, you can place the flower in a pot in a container of water, which will help the roots get wet. If you still can’t pull it out, you will need to break or cut the pot. Attention : The root system of the flower can be very developed, the roots intertwine with each other, this will complicate the replanting process, since it will be quite difficult to get rid of the substrate. It is much easier to replant a weakened plant; it can be easily removed from the pot.
2. Washing the roots and getting rid of excess substrate . It is imperative to remove the bark from the rhizome of the dendrobium orchid. Cleaning is quite simple. Place the orchid in a bowl of warm water for 15-20 minutes. During this time, the substrate will become wet. After this, it is already possible to stir and untangle the roots with your fingers. This procedure is carried out in water so as not to damage the roots. Dirty water should be washed off. If there are hard-to-reach places, you can use the shower. There is no need to try to clear all the roots of the old bark. If the bark particles are difficult to separate from the roots, you can leave them alone.
3. Inspection of roots and removal of diseased shoots . The cleaned root system is easy to inspect. All rotten and dry parts must be removed. If there are damaged areas on the roots, they need to be trimmed. You can use a knife or scissors for this. They should definitely be disinfected with alcohol or calcined with fire so that the plant does not get sick. The cut areas should be treated with charcoal or activated carbon. A healthy dendrobium orchid root system is hard and durable. Having no emptiness. The color of the roots is white or green.
4. Drying the plant after washing . It is recommended to dry the treated dendrobium orchid roots for two hours at room temperature. The best option is washing in the evening, then drying can be done all night, and in the morning you can start replanting.
5. Moving to a new container . It is recommended to pour chips of pine bark into the pot on the drainage layer. The dendrobium orchid should be placed in the middle of the pot. Next, you need to cover the roots of the plant with bark; the pseudobulbs should remain on the surface. If the plant is already large, you can tie wooden sticks to it for stability. It is worth removing the supports only when the plant takes root.
6. Watering . The first watering should be done when replanting a flower in order to compact the soil. It is worth noting that if the substrate is not dry, or it has been dried for no more than 2 hours, then it is necessary to water no earlier than 2-4 days after transplantation. Water for irrigation should be purified, at room temperature, maybe a little more. If this requirement is not observed, the roots may rot.

We recommend watching a video about the correct transplantation of dendrobium:

Step-by-step technology for transplanting plants by waddling

The transshipment method is carried out quite rarely. The most common reason is replacing a flower pot with a larger one, due to the growth of the root system.

There are different methods of transplantation, one of them is the transshipment method.

The principle is that the root ball is not destroyed, but is carefully removed and transferred to a new container. There is virtually no complexity in the process.

The main thing is accuracy, since sometimes, out of vital necessity, even a flowering plant has to be replanted in this way.

Preparatory operations:

• Choose a flower pot that is 20-30 mm wider than the previous one;
• Disinfect it with a solution of potassium permanganate;
• Prepare a new substrate and inert components;
• Prepare and disinfect available tools (scissors, knife, wooden stick, bamboo support).

Step-by-step instruction:

1. We water the root ball in advance for safe removal;
2. At the bottom of the new container we place heavy pebbles and drainage made of inert materials a couple of centimeters thick;
3. Carefully turn the pot over and try to remove the root part without disturbing the soil ball with roots. If necessary, cut or break the old container;
4. Place the orchid in a new pot;
5. Empty and free areas are filled with new substrate, carefully compacting them with a stick;
6. We install and secure the bamboo support with clips.

Important! When filling with new substrate, you must ensure that the roots do not bunch together.

Choosing a pot

It is better to buy ceramic or plastic containers. The former are more acceptable - on the one hand, they provide stability, and on the other, they help accumulate or, on the contrary, adsorb moisture. In summer, the orchid in such a container is not hot, and in winter it is not cold. Choose clay pots without glaze.

The size of the flowerpot should correspond to the size of the dendrobium root system, taking into account the fact that there will still be drainage at the bottom. It must fit completely there, and at the same time it is necessary that a little free space (two centimeters on each edge) is still left for growth.

It is better not to use large containers - moisture will accumulate in them, which will ultimately negatively affect the well-being of the orchid.

Feeding

It is simply impossible to grow any type of orchids without fertilizing. Proper care of dendrobium involves constant application of fertilizers. Orchids are very capricious, so it is necessary to immediately exclude all experiments with fertilizing. You should not prepare all kinds of mixtures yourself. The roots of the plant are very delicate and do not tolerate an excess of substances that can cause burns. It is not always possible to save dendrobium burned with compounds.

For orchids, liquid fertilizers are usually used. The first fertilizing can be done at the time when the plant begins to bloom. In the future, fertilizers are applied every three weeks. Experts recommend combining watering and fertilizing to avoid burns. The concentration of fertilizers should be two times weaker than what is written on the bottle. Tender roots may die from the concentrated composition.

Gardeners recommend feeding heat-loving varieties with phosphorus-potassium preparations once a month even in winter. Fertilization can be continued even in winter. It is believed that fertilizing extends the flowering period and makes it longer.

Cold-resistant species prefer nitrogen-containing substances, thanks to which they increase green mass.

Useful video

The video shows how to plant dendrobium in ready-made soil:

Find out interesting information about other types of orchids: Odontoglossum, Cymbidium, Vanda, Oncidium, Cambria, Coelogina, Cattleya, Ludisia precious, Miltonia, mini orchids, Brassia, Phalaenopsis

Regular soil cannot be used for dendrobium epiphytes. Instead, tree bark and drainage are used.

When should you replant a flower?

Transplantation is an important component of plant care. It may seem that the soil is still quite suitable for growing dendrobium orchids, but it may have already lost its beneficial properties. Namely, breathability, acidity, balance of salts. It often happens that as a result of frequent watering and fertilizing, the soil becomes dense. Therefore, less and less air reaches the roots of the flower each time.

When watering with tap water, the pH of the substrate gradually increases, as a result of which the dendrobium orchid ceases to receive useful elements from the environment. And the roots completely deteriorate from the accumulation of potassium and phosphorus salts. Taking into account all these subtleties, it is necessary to replant the plant once every 2-3 years, sometimes more often.

The plant also needs to be replanted if the roots have grown greatly and are displacing the substrate from the pot. It is imperative to replant the flower when rot or pests appear.

After purchasing a dendrobium orchid in a store, replanting should be done immediately after flowering ends, or within the first year after purchase. The substrate in which the plant is located in the store is not suitable for growing a flower at home. The best time to transplant a dendrobium orchid is spring. Spring is considered the period when new plant growth begins. At this time, new shoots and roots appear.

What does the plant suffer from and methods of treatment

The main ailments of dendrobium nobile are:

• root rot;
• rotting of the plant trunk is a consequence of root rot;
• wilting of leaves;
• the appearance of cracks;
• yellowing of foliage;
• premature disposal of flowers or buds.

Most of these problems arise due to improper care, overheating of the plant, exposure to stressful situations, overfeeding with fertilizers or excessive moisture.

But there are also serious diseases that can appear even with careful care.

Diseases can be caused by:

1. viruses;
2. bacteria;
3. fungi.

Viruses

appear in the form of large spots that slowly spread across the foliage. Unfortunately, viral diseases on the dendrobium orchid cannot be cured.

Even if the affected foliage is removed, it will be impossible to get rid of the virus. Therefore, in order to protect the rest of the plants in the room from being affected by this disease, it is better to get rid of the diseased flower as soon as possible.

Fungus

It is treated by treating the flower with a fungicide containing thiophanate-methyl.

The fungus may appear on pseudobulbs and leaves as small yellow spots that gradually darken. This entails rotting and drying out of the foliage. The fungus can also be observed on buds and flowers.

This disease can appear in plants through roots or leaves that have been damaged. Fungal spores are very hardy, so it will be very difficult to remove them. The plant is isolated from other flowers, measures are taken to cut off damaged tissue and disinfect sections. At the right time, you can transplant the plant into a new pot.

Bacteria

provoke the appearance of rot on the plant. This disease is treated with a systemic fungicide with the addition of copper sulfate. The plant must be removed from damaged parts; the remaining parts must be treated with the solution three times every 10 days.

The plant can become infected through poor quality water. Then brown spots, sometimes with a yellowish tint, begin to appear on its leaves.

Types of Dendrobium orchids

Among the many species of Dendrobium, the most popular species are (Figure 2):

• King;
• Parisha;
• Noble dendrobium;
• Dendrobium moniliforme.

Let's take a closer look at the features of each of these types.

King

Representatives of the species have rigid cylindrical stems, reaching a length of up to 30 cm. Their surface is covered with filmy leaf bases. Small flowers, from white to bright purple, are collected in a raceme at the top of the stem.

Parisha

A distinctive feature of this species is its fleshy stems, 30 to 40 cm long, with thickenings at the nodes. Their surface is shrouded in whitish leaf bases, which have a sharp oblong shape with a notched apex.

Figure 2. Main flower varieties: 1 - Kinga, 2 - Parisha, 3 - noble, 4 - moniliforme

Leafless peduncles bear lilac or pink flowers, up to 10 cm in diameter, slightly darkening towards the ends of the petals.

Noble

Dendrobium noble (Nobile) is the most favorite species among gardeners. It is a fairly large plant. Its straight, fleshy stems bear oblong-shaped leathery leaves.

Peduncles form on last year's leafless shoots. They bear 2-3 flowers, whitish-cream at the base and lilac (pink) at the edges. The base of the flower has a dark purple spot.

Moniliform

This species is one of the oldest in culture. It is a miniature version of a noble variety. This plant has minimal requirements for growing conditions.

Its root system does not rot if the substrate is not completely dried. This is why the moniliforme variety is so popular among indoor flower lovers. Its flowering period lasts from late winter to early autumn. Moreover, for each pseudobulb of the plant there are 1-2 inflorescences, which emit a light aroma.

Transparent plastic pots: advantages and disadvantages

There are two types of plastic containers for growing orchids: technological and decorative. Orchids are sold in technological pots, but many gardeners leave the plants to continue to grow in them. Decorative flowerpots are made of thicker plastic and can come in different colors.

The advantages of plastic containers are as follows:

• durability;
• high thermal conductivity, allowing you to grow heat-loving orchids in them;
• the ability to independently make additional holes in the walls and walls for better aeration of the roots;
• Orchid roots do not grow to plastic.

Pots of this type are usually made of transparent material, so such containers are most often used to place orchids with photosynthetic roots. But for other species, a transparent pot is convenient because it allows you to observe the condition of the root system through the walls.

These containers have one drawback - technological pots look undecorative.

Decorative flower pots help to disguise the low decorative effect of a simple plastic technological pot. They can be of any shape, but if necessary they must maintain a high degree of aeration of the roots and provide access to light.

Planting and transplanting

Ideal soil

Pine bark is usually used as soil for orchids.

• Boiled pine bark, crushed to medium fraction;
• Moss, crushed;
• Coal prevents acidification of the soil mixture;
• Fern roots;
• Coconut fiber.

Ready-made soil, where all the components are mixed in the required proportions, is sold in a flower shop.

Optimal capacity

• Drainage - large holes;
• The pot is a couple of centimeters larger than the previous one;
• If there are holes in the walls, that's great;
• An adult plant is massive and heavy, the pot must fit and prevent the plant from tipping over under its own weight. For young, straight and slender shoots, the weight of the pot does not matter. As the plant grows, it will still have to be replanted more than once.

Important! If the bases of the pseudobulbs are thin, you need to take care of supports for such a plant in advance. As it grows, the massive green mass may break or collapse

It is better to place shoots that are prone to drooping on a stand or block so that they can hang down and take on a free shape.

Signs of the need for a transplant

Dendrobium nobile “does not like” transplantation.

It is worth moving to a new pot only for serious reasons:

• The old pot became small;
• Young shoots have turned yellow, or there are dark spots on the roots and the plant needs help;
• The soil has “worn out” - it has turned black, crumbled, and does not “support” the plant.

Keeping dendrobium outdoors

At average air temperatures (not lower than +100C) and minimum short-term temperatures (not lower than +50C), it is useful to take the dendrobium outside. Outdoor rules:

• The location of the orchid should be protected from strong winds, direct sunlight and rain.

• The orchid must be placed on a stand (you cannot directly place the pot on the soil).

Photo. Consequence of prolonged exposure to low temperatures on dendrobium.

Photo

In the photo you can see an indoor dendrobium Nobile, which is properly cared for.