How to acidify the soil for hydrangeas, heathers, conifers


How to acidify the soil with vinegar for blueberries?

To improve acidity, water blueberries with vinegar diluted according to one of the following recipes:

  1. 1 tsp. a spoonful of citric or oxalic acid per 3 liters of water;
  2. 100 ml of 9% acetic acid or the same amount of malic acid per 10 liters of water;
  3. 1 tbsp. l. 70% vinegar essence per 10 liters of water.

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Soil acidity: what is it?

Until my three expensive rhododendrons died, I had rather vague ideas about soil acidity. I blamed the death of the plants on the weather, too much heat, the machinations of spider mites, and insufficient attention on my part, but I could not imagine that the soil was not suitable for the plants.

So what is soil acidity? This is a certain property of the soil, which is determined by the presence of hydrogen and aluminum ions in the soil composition.

Name pH indicators
Very strongly acidic From 1.0 to 4.0
Strongly acidic From 4.1 to 4.5
Subacid From 5.1 to 6.0
Neutral From 6.1 to 7.4
Slightly alkaline From 7.5 to 8.5
Highly alkaline From 8.6 to 10.0
Strong alkaline More than 10.0

To grow most plants, neutral or slightly alkaline soils are required - the ideal pH is 5.5-7. Some species are able to thrive in slightly acidic soils. And only a small group of plants cannot live without acidic soil.

FAQ

To clarify the most important points, we will answer the most frequently asked questions.

What happens if you over-acidify the soil?

Vegetable crops will not grow on acidified soil, but hydrangea feels good. If the acidity index is below 4, then think about the opposite action - increasing the amount of alkali.

How to fix the situation after watering

The following will help increase the amount of alkali and reduce the acidity in the soil:

  • dolomite flour;
  • slaked lime;
  • chalk;
  • wood ash.

Information on neutralizing soil after severe acidification:

When is the best time to acidify the soil?

Start acidifying the soil from the day the hydrangea awakens until the end of the growing season on sunny days.

Why do you need to acidify the soil?

Acidification of the soil improves plant growth and the absorption of fertilizer, and the color of the inflorescences of hydrangeas also changes.

How many times to do acidification

Do acidification once a week, and for prevention, add 1 tablespoon of vinegar to each watering.

How long does it take to acidify the soil?

Acidify the soil until the pH stabilizes in the range of 3.5-4.5.

Which is better: vinegar or citric acid

The effect of table vinegar 9% and citric acid on the soil is the same. They can worsen the condition of soil microflora, so the best choice is apple cider vinegar, which has a mild effect on plants and bacteria.

Is it possible to water hydrangea with citric acid and vinegar?

Slightly acidic and moderately acidic soil is best suited for growing plants . The acidity level of the soil affects the flowering of hydrangeas. So, if the pH is maintained within 5.5 units, the bush will bloom profusely and as richly as possible. If the indicators are below this norm, the natural pink color will change to blue. At a pH level of 5.5–6.5, the petals will turn purple. If the acidity level exceeds 6.5 units, the inflorescences will acquire a rich red hue.

Before you start changing the acid balance of the soil, you need to check the pH level . This can be done by adding a small amount of 9% vinegar to the soil. If the soil is too acidic, a characteristic foam forms on the surface. In this case, it can be slightly deoxidized with slaked lime. To do this in the fall, you need to loosen the area around the plant and evenly sprinkle 300 g of lime per 1 m².

You can also check the soil balance using litmus paper. If the soil acidity level is acceptable (pH 5.5), it can be maintained by watering the plant with a solution of citric acid or vinegar . Methods for soil acidification are described in detail below.

How to visually determine the acidity of the soil on a site?

The acidity of a site can be roughly determined by the plants that inhabit the area.

Indicator plants will allow you to approximately determine the acidity of the soil in a certain area. Among them, garden crops can be distinguished; beets are especially often relied on. The regrown beet tops have turned a rich red color - this indicates acidic soil. The beet tops are green with chaotic red splashes - the soil is slightly acidic. If the beet leaves have an even green tint, and only the petioles remain red, the soil in the area is neutral.

  1. Acidic soils - mosses grow well in such areas. Horsetails, plantains, all types of sorrel, nettles, creeping buttercups, oxalis, and willowweeds like to settle in areas with acidic soil.
  2. Alkaline soil - plantain, mustard, dried grass.

You can rely on nature's instructions, but it is better to sample the soil at several points in the area and check the acidity using special tests.

What can replace vinegar?

There are several options for replacing vinegar:

Organicleaf compost; rotted sawdust and pine litter; peat moss (sphagnum); manure (fresh only). 1. Acidification occurs slowly. 2. The effect remains for a long time. 3. Maintains soil looseness, feeding it with additional minerals.
Mineralsammonium sulfate; ammonium nitrate; ferrous sulfate; potassium sulfate; colloidal sulfur. 1. Significantly increases acidity in a short time. 2. Chemical compounds are used with caution, as they can cause the opposite effect.
Green manureoats; lupine; soy; mustard; rape. 1. Planting such plants near hydrangeas maintains soil acidity.

Why acidify the soil?

As mentioned above, among garden plants there are those that feel good exclusively on acidic substrates. These are the so-called acidophiles . Their natural habitat is peat bogs, coniferous forests, and wetlands. Over the years of evolution, the root system of such crops has adapted to absorb important elements from the aggressive soil environment. Acidophiles do not have suction root hairs; their role is played by microscopic fungi that penetrate the root tissue and facilitate the transport of nutrients and moisture. This symbiosis in botany is designated by the term “mycorrhiza” and it is possible only under conditions of high acidity. If there are not enough hydrogen ions in the soil, this leads to a deterioration in the digestibility of certain microelements and, as a consequence, to inhibition of plant growth. In addition, due to decreased absorption of iron and magnesium, non-infectious chlorosis often develops, causing yellowing and premature falling of leaves, drying out of shoots and death of active roots. As a result, acidophilic cultures gradually weaken and over time may even die.

What to plant if the soil is acidic


Some summer residents complain that cucumbers and tomatoes on their plots yield almost no harvest. Others say that the flowers bloom reluctantly and the inflorescences are too small. Do you think these are problems from different planes? But no. If you have just started your summer cottage career and recently bought a plot of land, we recommend that you study the soil. Your task is to measure the pH of the soil on the site, and only after that start planting flora representatives. The fact is that if the soil is too acidic, not all plants will be able to grow and bear fruit in it. Today we will talk about those who love acidic soil, as well as what to do to deoxidize the soil if necessary.

How can you tell if the soil is acidic?

First of all, you need to determine whether such a problem as acidic soil concerns you personally. How do you understand that the pH level of the soil in your dacha is significantly higher than it should be? We will answer this question, but first, let’s figure out what acidic soil is:

  • this is the earth which, on contact with litmus paper, will cause the latter to turn red;
  • this is a soil that does not react with acids (for example, if you pour a glass of table vinegar on an alkaline soil, it will immediately hiss and a foam cap will immediately begin to form on it, and if you do the same with an acidic soil - nothing will happen at all);
  • acidic earth interacts with the same substances with which acids interact: these are metals and salts.

The pH value is the same pH used to measure acidity. Neutral land is characterized by an index of 7.0. If the soil is too acidic, the pH value will be less than 6.5. And if the dacha soil, on the contrary, is alkaline, then the pH value will exceed 7.5.

Traditional method

The easiest and fastest way to identify acidic soil on a site is with the help of plants. Not those that you planted, but those that populated this territory. on one's own. There is a whole group of flora representatives that grow and develop best in acidic soil. These include the famous folk “healer” - plantain. A creeping buttercup or woodlice may grow next to the plantain. Moss is also a silent confirmation of acidic soil. Ancient horsetail is from the same category, as well as the so-called horse sorrel, which in acidic soil reaches downright gigantic proportions.

Scientific method

You can safely conduct this experiment with your children and grandchildren. As a result, you will receive an answer to the question of how acidic the soil is on your site, and the child will be delighted with the scientific mini-research in which she took part.

  1. We take a shovel and form a hole in the ground, the depth of which does not exceed 0.3 meters.
  2. We take a teaspoon of soil from different parts of the formed pit and pour all three samples into a single glass.
  3. To one part of the earth we add two parts of water, but not ordinary, but distilled. Take a spoon and mix the resulting mixture thoroughly.
  4. We leave the contents of the glass for literally five minutes, and then, using litmus paper, we take measurements.

If the piece of paper turns red, it means the soil at the dacha is highly acidic. With this color of paper, the pH values ​​range from 4.5 to 4.0. If the piece of paper turns pink after contact with the soil-water mixture, this is evidence that the soil is slightly acidic, and in slightly acidic soil the pH varies somewhere between 5 and 6.

Alternative “currant” method

This method is even more interesting than the scientific one. And the younger generation can also be involved in its implementation. A litmus test for a dacha is very rare, we agree. But currants are the opposite. What does this have to do with currants, you ask in unison. But here’s what we have to do with it, we answer slyly: in fact, currant leaves can easily cope with the function of litmus paper. This is a kind of plant indicator. True, for this it is necessary to carry out preparatory actions.

  1. Take a glass of rain water, which is an alternative to distilled water.
  2. Bring the water to a boil.
  3. Place three or four freshly picked currant leaves in there and wait for the liquid to cool.
  4. After the liquid has cooled, we send a portion of the country soil there and see what happens to the currant leaves.

Leaves that have turned blue will indicate that the soil is alkaline. The fact that it is sour will be indicated by the red tint of the leaf plate. If the soil at the dacha has a neutral pH value, the berry leaf will remain green and will not change its original color.

What to plant in a sour garden

A little later we will tell you how to deoxidize the soil if necessary. In the meantime, let’s list the plants that will love your garden just the way it is.

garden plants

If the garden is filled with slightly acidic soil or soil with an average level of acidity, feel free to plant berry crops such as raspberries, blackberries and currant bushes on its territory. A similar soil is quite suitable for ordinary gooseberries. The popular strawberry, which in scientific sources is called garden strawberry, is no exception. All these plants will happily develop and bear fruit in a “sour” garden.

If you want to plant wild berries, you will either have to increase the acidity manually or choose a location with highly acidic soil for it. The optimal pH value for wild lingonberries and tasty blueberries, as well as blueberries and healthy cranberries, ranges between 4.0 and 4.5.

Blooming crops

Flowers are the group of plants that have more acid lovers than any other. Below we list the most basic ones.

  • Rose. If you want to grow a stunning and fragrant rose bush, provide the queen of flowers with highly acidic soil.
  • Peony. If you see that a handsome peony has grown one and a half meters in height, it means that he likes its location. And if the peony likes the place in which it grows, then this place has acidic soil.
  • Fern. Shade and acidic soil are two conditions for the active growth of one of the oldest ornamental plants for the garden - the popular fern.
  • Hydrangea. This is generally an amazing plant that is suitable not only for acidic, but also for alkaline soil. By the way, by the flowering of hydrangea, you can roughly determine the soil pH. The bush blooms pink in the presence of acid, and blue in the presence of alkalis.

Among those who should also be named among the admirers of sour earth are beautiful magnolias, bright poppies, modest forget-me-nots and baby purslane.

What kind of soil does hydrangea like?

The flower prefers fertile clay areas with slightly acidic or moderately acidic soil. The most suitable acidity level for the plant is 5.5 pH. Land brought from the place where coniferous trees grow is ideal.

The following types of soil are absolutely unsuitable:

  • sandy - due to a lack of micronutrients;
  • heavy loamy - has the ability to retain moisture for a long time, has a tendency to become waterlogged;
  • alkaline.

It is advisable that the beds receive good sunlight in the first half of the day, as a lack of lighting leads to a decrease in the abundance of flowering.

During the growth period, beneficial nutrients included in the soil composition gradually pass to the plant. This causes a decrease in soil acidity. Acidifying the soil for hydrangea will help correct the situation.

Soil for indoor plants

All of us, fans of home gardening, replant our plants about once a year.
And, of course, in the age of the Internet, everyone, before transplanting a flower, finds information about what soil is suitable for it. So what do we read: “you need to take such and such an amount of turf soil, such and such a quantity of leaf soil, a certain amount of peat, etc.” With peat, everything seems to be clear; you can buy it at any flower shop. Where can I get leaf, turf or humus?

Very hardworking summer residents can prepare it in their summer cottages. Making turf and leaf soil, vermicompost is not very difficult, you just need time and desire. This will take, however, at least 1.5 - 2 years. Well, what about those who don’t have a personal plot? Of course, buy it at a flower shop or garden center. There are a lot of substrates being sold now. But it happens that a plant, in seemingly suitable soil, develops poorly, and sometimes simply dies. Why? Of course, there may be different reasons, but one of them is a bad substrate. To be honest, there are still unscrupulous manufacturers of soil mixtures. A friend of mine who loves violets lost all of her transplanted Saintpaulias. Only later did she realize that the substrate reeked of ammonia, the flowers were simply burnt.

Hence the advice - buy soil mixtures only from trusted companies. This is already half the success.

For some plants, special mixtures with acidity and composition suitable for this flower are sold. There are substrates for azaleas, palms, dracaenas, cacti, orchids, saintpaulias, etc. If not, buy a universal primer.

But universal soil is not suitable for every plant. For example, cyperus requires dense soil that retains water well, while dieffenbachia requires loose soil that dries well and is slightly acidic. But in principle, a universal soil mixture will suit both, if you change it a little.

Based on universal soil, you can create a soil mixture suitable for a specific plant. Various components can be either purchased in stores or assembled yourself, for example, in a forest or park.

The first thing plants react to is soil acidity. For example, an azalea will never grow well in soil with a pH of 6 - 7; it needs acidic soil.

What components increase soil acidity?

Stores usually sell high-moor peat (pH 4-5). It is loose and light, but there are few minerals in it. Peat retains water well and may not dry out for a long time, but after drying, it is difficult to wet it, the water sits on top and is not absorbed. It is not worth adding a lot of it to the soil mixture.

Coniferous land

It can be collected in a coniferous, preferably pine, forest or park. To do this, rake off the top 5 - 7 cm, where the needles have not yet rotted, and collect soil about 10 cm deep. This will be well-rotted needles, light and loose. It can be added to the soil when transplanting azaleas and anthuriums; it is especially good for heathers and hydrangeas.

heather land

If you live in a region where heathers grow, then you can easily stock up on heather soil (pH 5) yourself. You can pick it up in heather thickets. It can also be used to acidify a universal substrate.

pine bark

Having collected and crushed pine bark from the forest, it must be disinfected. Adding pine bark to the soil mixture makes it breathable, loose and increases acidity.

Sphagnum moss

Can be purchased at garden centers. It is primarily used in substrates for orchids. But you can add it to your regular soil mixture. Sphagnum moss (pH 4) will loosen the soil well, absorb excess moisture when the plant is overwatered, and enrich the soil with nutrients. In addition, it has high antiseptic qualities, so it is often used for rooting cuttings; it can be used for sowing seeds, for example, large strelitzia seeds, which take a long time to germinate, and in a regular seedling substrate they can easily be over-moistened or dried out. Before adding sphagnum moss to the soil, it must be chopped with scissors. Suitable for adding even to a ready-made substrate for Saintpaulias, azaleas, and anthuriums.

How to make the soil mixture loose, light and dry well.

This soil is suitable for most indoor plants. Particularly relevant when transplanting succulents, cacti, amaryllis, bromiliaceae, gesneriaceae, etc.

The easiest way is to add sand . But under no circumstances should it be used for construction purposes, since due to its small structure, it will only clog the ground. It is better if it is coarse river sand. By adding a large amount of sand, you reduce the nutritional value of the soil mixture. Ideally, its part should not exceed one fifth of the total composition.

Perlite will help improve soil breathability . You can buy it both in garden stores and construction markets. Perlite, which is used in construction, usually has a finer fraction, so, of course, it is better to purchase garden grade perlite. Perlite is an expanded rock of volcanic origin. Before adding it to the mixture, it is advisable to rinse it with running water, pouring it into a sieve, in order to get rid of small particles and dust.

Vermiculite can be purchased at flower shops and garden centers. In addition to the fact that it makes the soil air and water permeable, it also has a good ability to absorb water and then release it. Therefore, if vermiculite is present in the soil mixture, it is more difficult to overwater the plant, which is good. Vermiculite grains are an expanded clay mineral; they not only improve the structure of the soil, but also enrich it with minerals.

Coconut fiber is usually sold in compressed briquettes, which before use need to be filled with water for half an hour to an hour, then squeezed out and dried. When added, the soil becomes light and breathable.

For plants that require an alkaline reaction, charcoal . This is ordinary coal from a fire; it needs to be crushed a little and washed in running water. Adding coal reduces soil acidity. In addition, it is a good antiseptic. Charcoal can be used as drainage by pouring it into the bottom of the pot. If you are rooting a cutting in water, add a small piece of coal, it will prevent rotting.

How to increase soil nutrition.

Vermicompost

This ideal microbiological fertilizer can be purchased at garden centers. The microorganisms that are present in it populate the soil, healing it, improving its structure, saturating it with microelements and nutrients. But you can’t grow flowers in it alone; it is added to soil mixtures at the rate of one part of vermicompost and four to five parts of soil.

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Determining soil pH at home

The soil pH value gives us information about whether the soil reaction is acidic, neutral or alkaline (calcareous). At pH 7, the reaction of the soil solution is neutral, below 7 it is acidic, and above it it is alkaline.

By nature, acidic soils are found almost exclusively in pristine nature reserves. Garden soil usually needs to be acidified. We recommend using a soil sample to determine the actual pH value before taking action. This is quite easy to do at home.

The easiest way (Option One) is to use litmus paper. You also need testing soil, which you can get at a depth of about ten centimeters. Place this soil in a bucket, crumble it and remove any foreign objects. Take distilled water and combine it with crushed soil in a 1:1 ratio. Using litmus paper, determine the pH value of the soil based on the color.

Now just insert the sticks into the soil tester, in about a minute you will be able to read the result.

Another option is to buy soil testers. For example, the MP-330 soil acidity and moisture meter (it can be ordered in the online store). You need land for testing. Prepare it as in the first option. Now simply insert the tip of the tester into the soil. And in about a minute you will be able to see the result.

Also pay attention to wild plants in your garden. They will be able to give you a good idea of ​​different soils. For example, dandelions, strawberries and plantain grow in acidic soil, while chicory prefers alkaline soil.

Litmus paper at home

To make litmus paper, we only need indicator substances that can change their color in the presence of acids and alkalis. And also printer paper and water. As natural indicators, you can take red cabbage, black currants, blueberries, blackberries, and chokeberries. These plants contain a dye (anthocyanin); It is he who is responsible for sensitivity to pH.

You should cut the cabbage into pieces and add a small amount of distilled (or clean) water to it. Then bring the resulting solution to a boil and simmer for about half an hour. If you use berries, chop them first.

As soon as the prepared broth has cooled, dip the printer paper cut into pieces into it (for 5-7 minutes). The paper should take on a lilac hue. Then take it out and dry it. That's all. Do-it-yourself litmus paper is ready.

Do a soil test. If the sap retains its purple color, the soil is neutral. If the color changes to pink, the soil becomes acidic, the sap turns green or blue, and the soil is alkaline.

Using tests

Use smart test indicators for the acidity of garden soil and potting soil for indoor plants. You can buy them at garden centers. In the package of this mini-lab you will find three measuring sticks and detailed instructions.

Methods for soil acidification

There are several ways to help make the soil acidic. Which of these methods to use depends on the structure of the soil, the initial pH, and the area of ​​acidification.

Acidification with organic materials

An acidic environment can be created by:

High peat

Rotted pine sawdust, pine litter

Leaf compost

Sphagnum moss

Organics should be used on well-aerated, permeable, loose substrates. Organic matter slowly acidifies the soil, gradually decomposing, but it works for a long time.

In addition, organic matter preserves the loose structure of the soil and enriches it with nutrients and humus. This method is not suitable when it is necessary to achieve a rapid increase in acidity.

Mineral compounds

Heavy clay soils are more effectively acidified with minerals. These can be colloidal sulfur, ferrous sulfate.

Colloidal sulfur

used to change acidity significantly. 1 kg of sulfur applied per 10 m2 reduces pH by 2.5 units.

It is recommended to add sulfur in the fall when digging to a depth of 10-15 cm; the result of oxidation will be in 8-12 months.

Ferrous sulfate

acts faster than sulfur, but softer. When adding half a kilogram of powder per 10 m2, it reduces the pH by one within a month.

If you need to slightly acidify the area, you can use ammonium nitrate

(in spring),
ammonium sulfate
(during autumn digging),
potassium sulfate
(in autumn).

Acidification with acid solutions

If you need a quick acidification result, then use acid solutions.

Sulfuric acid

(battery electrolyte) is the best option for acidification. Dilute 50 ml of electrolyte per 10 liters of water and treat 1 m2 of area for sowing.

Lemon acid

– 1-2 teaspoons of powder per 10 liters of water.

Some use 9% vinegar

diluting 100 ml per 10 liters of water. This is the worst option for acidification; it destroys soil microflora and gives a short-term effect.

Green manure

Green manure sown in garden plots after harvesting will help maintain the acid-base balance when growing various crops.

By incorporating green manure into the soil, as well as rotting the root system, it provides the plants with nitrogen in an accessible form and slightly acidifies the soil.

Soil for indoor plants

What is the most important component for any plant, both in the wild and in home cultivation? Of course, this is the soil. Soil is the nutrition of plants and, of course, not a single plant can live without soil.

As diverse as the plant world is, so is the environment in which they grow, including the composition of the soil. One of the most important tasks of a gardener is to choose the right soil mixture for each plant. You can buy ready-made mixtures and, often, this is justified, but it is much more interesting to make the soil yourself. Don’t forget about the complaints about store-bought soil, which have become increasingly common lately:

  1. Soil contamination (fungus, mold, nematode)
  2. The composition of the soil does not correspond to what was declared (a large amount of peat, many fractions that are not soil - chips, knots, etc.)

[!] When using a ready-made soil mixture, always disinfect it - pour the soil onto a baking sheet and leave for about 20 minutes. in the oven at the highest temperature or freeze the soil at a temperature of -5 ° C or lower for 24 hours.

Of course, all of the above is quite rare in purchased mixtures, but if you end up with poor-quality soil, you can practically say goodbye to the plant.

So, how to make your own soil mixture and what components are needed for this:

  • Leaf soil is soil formed in places where fallen leaves rot, light and loose. Leaf soil is slightly acidic (pH 5-6). The structure is light, airy, the composition contains minor inclusions of not completely rotten leaves. Main application – soil mixtures for plants with delicate root systems (begonia, gloxinia, cyclamen)
  • Turf land is highly nutritious land harvested from pastures and meadows sown with forage grasses. There is a division into heavy earth (which contains a large amount of clay) and light earth (which contains a large amount of sand). To prepare such soil, layers of turf about 10 cm high are cut, then they are laid in layers and a little manure is placed between them. During the year, the soil matures and is then used in floriculture. It is not necessary to wait for the turf soil to ripen - you can use meadow soil immediately.
  • Humus soil is the soil with the highest nutrient content. It is obtained as a result of the decomposition of manure: light compounds are formed from the manure of small cattle, the manure of cows and bulls produces heavier humus. Humus soil is very rich in microelements and also contains a large amount of nitrogen. The technology for preparing humus soil is as follows: in a greenhouse or greenhouse in early spring, a hole is dug into which manure is placed; the manure is sprinkled with ordinary soil on top of which the plants are planted for seedlings. In the fall, both manure and soil are taken out of the greenhouse and kept in the open air until frost begins, after which the humus soil is ready for use.
  • Peat soil , on the contrary, is not highly nutritious, but, due to its high looseness and porosity, is indispensable as an additive to heavy soils. In addition, peat soil is highly acidic and is widely used in soil mixtures for plants that prefer acidic soil. Peat soil is prepared from swamp or meadow peat: the peat is extracted, cut into layers, the layers are sprinkled with lime and manure and kept for 2-3 years.
  • Coniferous soil , as the name implies, is land obtained in a coniferous forest and consisting of soil and rotted needles of coniferous trees. The main properties of coniferous soil are increased looseness and acidity; there are few nutrients in such soil. Coniferous soil is perfect as an additive to the main soil for plants that love soil with high acidity. In addition, not completely rotten needles, cones and small branches can be used in a substrate for orchids.

[!] If the soil contains coniferous soil, the plant will not get sick with fungal diseases and chlorosis, thanks to the disinfecting properties of pine needles.

  • Charcoal is used both as a component of soil mixtures and as drainage. Coal can also be used as a medicinal preparation - crushed coal is sprinkled on rotten roots and fleshy stems, such as cacti and other succulents (coal has a disinfecting effect and prevents further rotting). Coal is able to fight harmful substances even when it is part of the soil mixture, so a small addition of coal is recommended for the soil of any plants. The best charcoal for plants is obtained by burning birch or aspen firewood and then grinding it.
  • Coconut fiber is an organic substrate made from coconut husk fibers. Coconut fiber is a soil material unique in its properties: the fiber practically does not decompose (due to the high ligin content), does not cake and does not settle. By adding coconut fiber to the soil, you can do without additional drainage.

How is the pH level determined?

There are several options for determining the acidity level of your soil:

Laboratory method

The first level of determination can be attributed to laboratory methods. If you want to get accurate data on your pH level and will not spare some money for it. Then you need to contact special laboratories.

These laboratories are called soil science laboratories. Specialists will take the necessary samples from your site, using this material they will be able to conduct a multifaceted study and give you accurate results of the acidity level throughout the entire territory of the land.

At home

The second option is to determine the acidity level at home. But using this method you will not be able to determine the exact acidity level of your soil. This method will help you save money and roughly determine your acidity level. In order to determine the level, you need to do the following:

Litmus paper method

You will need litmus paper and a soil solution. The solution should be settled and well mixed. To determine the acidity level, you need to dip litmus paper into this solution and watch how the paper changes color.

If the paper has a blue tint, then the soil is alkaline. If a red color begins to appear on the paper, then your soil is at a predominant acid level. If a yellow-green tint appears on the table paper, then we can safely say that in your soil the two environments are equal and the soil is a neutral environment for plants.

You can also roughly determine the level of acidity and alkalinity, then you should look at the contrast of the color that appears on litmus paper. For example, the brighter the red color, the higher the acidity level of your soil. Also with alkaline pH.

Using specialized tests

For the next method, we will need special tests, which can be purchased at many gardening stores. This method is the most accurate of all home tests. You can find out everything you need to carry out the test in the test instructions.

Method from scrap materials

The last method, but no less effective. To carry out the test, we don’t have to do anything complicated, nor do we have to buy anything. Since almost everyone has all the necessary things in their home. For the test we need soda and acetic acid.

This method will not cause you any difficulties. To determine the environment, you will also need to take some soil from your site. Divide it into two parts, pour a little vinegar into one of them, and add a pinch of soda to the other and watch the reaction. If the soil into which you poured vinegar begins to bubble and hiss, it means that an alkaline environment prevails in the soil. Also, if the reaction begins to appear in contact with soda, it means that an acidic environment predominates in the earth.

Determine the pH level of water

If you do not want to do any research, then this method is suitable for you. To do this, you need to find out what the pH level of your water is. You don't need anything for this. Well, besides, what kind of water do you water your land with?

If you water your soil with piped water, then most likely your soil is alkaline. Since the pipeline uses alkali to disinfect water. In this case, your soil needs to increase its acidity level a little.

It is best to water the soil with filtered water, since after such water your soil will be as close as possible to a neutral environment. But this watering method is considered very expensive, since it will be necessary to water a large number of plants and this will require a lot of filtered water.

For those who are not particularly versed in the pH indicator, we will now tell you a little. The pH level ranges from 0 to 14 points. The higher the pH level, the more alkaline the environment. Also in reverse order. For example and better understanding, acetic acid has a pH of 0, and household products have a pH of 14.

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  1. Acidify the soil with a solution of vinegar or citric acid to improve the growth and flowering of hydrangeas.
  2. The most suitable soil pH level for hydrangeas is 3.5-4.5.
  3. Water the plants with acids directly above the roots, without touching the stem and leaves.
  4. You can replace vinegar with organic compounds and mineral fertilizers.
  5. If the soil is too acidic, lime, ash or dolomite flour will help.

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Which plants need to be watered with acidified water and how often?

Soil acidity is one of the important indicators of soil quality. The quality and quantity of the future harvest, as well as the abundance and splendor of flowering ornamental crops, largely depend on it.

What is soil acidity? This is the ability of soil to exhibit the properties of acids, it is due to the presence of hydrogen ions. Acidic soil impairs the absorption of nitrogen, calcium, magnesium by plants and promotes the accumulation of aluminum and manganese.

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Accordingly, in acidic soil the balance of nutrients is disrupted, and therefore metabolism; plants absorb nutrition and moisture less well, which means they wither, become frail, and get sick.

Most ornamental, vegetable and fruit crops prefer normal soil acidity. However, there are a number of plants that feel more comfortable in acidic soil. Such plants are called acidophiles.

They absorb nutrients better, feel more comfortable, grow and develop faster, and are less likely to get sick in soils with high acidity. Therefore, the soil for them needs to be acidified regularly.

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Where does this “love” for acidic soils come from? It all depends on where these plants grow in nature. If near peat bogs, somewhere in the lowlands, then in a pot they will prefer the same acidified soil. Climate, amount of precipitation, “neighbors” - all this affects the acidity of the soil and gives plants preferences from birth.

How to acidify water for watering plants?

How to acidify water for watering plants

In apartment conditions it is very easy to acidify the soil. The easiest way to do this is through irrigation water.

What can be added to water to acidify the soil? By the way, all these products will also soften the water for irrigation - double benefit!

  • Citric acid. How to acidify water with citric acid? Just dilute 5 grams of powder in 2 liters of hot water.
  • Oxalic acid. It is found both in sorrel itself and, for example, in rhubarb. It is enough to put a couple of green leaves in the water for irrigation.
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